Blend All About Wine

Posts Tagged : wine

Cockburn’s Port
March 23, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text Bruno Mendes

It was in 1815 that the two Scottish brothers (already with a successful business), Robert and John Cockburn, decided to set up a branch in Porto, known as R & J Cockburn’s. Cockburn’s managed to build an outstanding reputation on Vintage Port and the records demonstrate it, in the early twentieth century they were leading  the auction houses in London with the highest prices.

Like all the early Port wine companies, Cockburn’s has seen its name change, in this case to Cockburn’s & Co, a name that persists to this day. The family grew with the addition of other families such as the Wauchopes, the Smithes, the Teages and Cobbs.

Ten years ago, in 2006, Symington acquired Cockburn’s, thus becoming again the property of only one family.

For a more detailed view you can watch the video below.

Marcolino Sebo Wines – Quinta da Pinheira Colheita Seleccionada 2010 and Visconde de Borba Reserva 2011
March 21, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Marcolino Sebo afforded to pay the arable land with what he got in the extractive industry. Estremoz is a land of marble and vineyard. Plot by plot and totalling 190 hectares, 130 are vineyard.

Marcolino Sebo’s viticultural history begins in 1975, a time when the country was burning with political passions, almost ending up in a civil war that would split the country in half – I won’t elaborate about the history of Portugal.

Up until 1999, Marcolino Sebo had been selling the grapes to the Adega Cooperativa de Borba, becoming a prominent supplier. In that same year they made their first own vintage and debuted the winery.

All vineyards are within the demarcation of Alentejo, within the sub-region of Borba. Not all its wines are DOC Alentejo (controlled designation of origin), several of them are classified as Regional Alentejo. In addition to the still wines, Marcolino Sebo also produces and sells liqueur wines, grape marc spirit and wine spirit. And also has a small production of olive oil.

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Marcolino Sebo in marcolinosebo.com

Everything is used and saved. The generous wines allow him not to waste wine that hardly would sell. The spirits are acquired to those who buys him vinic subproducts. The barrels which are no longer useful are used to age the spirits.

The produced wine is mostly red: six reds, three whites, one rosé, a white liqueur wine, one wine spirit (old) and one grape marc spirit. Why so many reds? Because they are the most sought – simple.

In such a wide range, the menu of Marcolino Sebo goes from 2,5 euros up to 20. Monte da Vaqueira (white and red) is the basis. The ideas that are beyond the main profile come with the brand Quinta da Pinheira, but the badge goes to the shelves as Visconde de Borba. The liqueur wine and the spirits are sold under the producer’s name.

Well, let’s move on to what matters. I didn’t try the whole range, yet the sample was broad. A summary prepared by Jorge Santos, with great sympathy and a proud Alentejo accent.

Portugal is fortunate (merit) with its generous / liqueur wines – bureaucratic differentiation to designate fortified wines and sincerely it only gets in the way. With Port wine, Madeira wine and Moscatel de Setúbal, among others, it’s not easy to shine. These nectars are traditional in most of the country and the Alentejo is one of its homelands. So … MS Licoroso Branco, made from a blend of Rabo de Ovelha and Roupeiro, is in that ancient family. It has freshness and is gluttonous. As for the rest, it cannot be compared.

Jorge Santos explained that the house’s wines intend to answer two questions: the tradition and the world. But I disagree! I mean, the traditional part is true, but I found no other accent besides of the sung phrases in «language» Alentejo. Note that Marcolino Sebo also has vines of non-Portuguese grape varieties.

On its own, what I’ve written above is neither positive nor negative – because there exists good and bad in what is old and in ‘travel’. In this case the balance is clearly positive, either in the nectars that cling to the Alentejo region, and in those who decided to wander a little.

Looking at the set … and since we’re talking about Alentejo, where in the whites pontificates the grape variety Antão Vaz … well! The fault is neither of the producer nor of the winemaker nor of the grape variety. I do not like the Antão Vaz! Okay, forgetting the personal taste, I need to give a vote of confidence.

I recognize that there is some injustice by choosing to only comment on some wines. Which is the criteria to be followed? Only the top-end? Point to those with a more democratic price? Of the several possible criteria, I will choose by the maternal side – from Alentejo, although from a land without vineyard (Castro Verde).

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Visconde de Borba Reserva 2011 in marcolinosebo.com

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Quinta da Pinheira Colheita Seleccionada in marcolinosebo.com

I will consciously assume the personal taste – I’ll tell you a detail of this matter in a moment. Quinta da Pinheira Colheita Seleccionada 2010 (Alicante Bouschet, Aragonês and Trincadeira) and Visconde de Borba Reserva 2011 (Alicante Bouschet, Aragonês, Tinta Caiada and Trincadeira) pleased me on the oenophile’s ‘G-spot’, by their strong accent.

The detail I mentioned is that at lunch, with Jorge Santos and Sónia Sebo (daughter of Marcolino Sebo and manager of the firm), I was ‘obliged’ to meet several ‘family members’. In the end, the winemaker handed me three bottles (the ones I mentioned above and the Quinta da Pinheira red 2011) and told me those where “his ones”, those whose sung accent give him the warmth of the region.

Yes. It is true! How well they speak singing.

Everyone there sings. And the cante alentejano (Alentejo singing) is part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage List, sentenced UNESCO.

Contacts
Quinta da Pinheira – Arcos
7100 Estremoz
Tel: (+351) 268 891 570
Fax: (+351) 268 891 571
E-mail: geral@marcolinosebo.com
Website: www.marcolinosebo.com

The Adega do Cartaxo and the Ribatejo rebirth
March 18, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Founded in 1954 by a group of 22 associates, the Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo has its roots in a region with a strong wine tradition and historical references to this activity that go back to X century. The Adega operated, until 1974, at the premises of the former Junta Nacional do Vinho (the current IVV), since then it operates in the current facilities, always investing in strengthening its human and technological resources at the service of a better wine production. Presently, the Adega do Cartaxo has 216 associated with a 616 hectares’ vineyard area, of which 244 are DOC and 370 IGP, and it is, with no doubt, another good example of an Adega Cooperativa that knew how to remodel and update itself to the needs of the market and consumer demands. The image remodeling of its main wines creating appealing and distinctive labels are part of that new image, the quality of the wines with the oenology in charge of Eng. Pedro Gil has paid numerous awards nationally and abroad.

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Adega do Cartaxo – Photo Provided by Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo | All Rights Reserved

With a portfolio filled with countless references, I decided to focus my attention on those who, for me, are the company’s stars. Bridão Private Collection 2013 is the first of a set of three wines that I selected. This wine has a blend of Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet, 50/50, and aged for 10 months in Portuguese oak barrels. A mature wine, concentrated and opulent, full of ripe fruit with a touch of spices. Good freshness surrounding it, soft and sweet tooth and, with a good complexity and the ease with which it captivates, let’s say that it is one of those wines that easily pleases without having much to think about, because those who drink wine do not have to waste time thinking. A person drinks because it tastes good and this wine tastes good, it tastes very well.

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The three wines – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Hopping now to the Bridão Reserva white 2014, composed by the Fernão Pires and Arinto grape varieties, which fermented and aged in French oak barrels for 3 months. The result is a white that combines the weight of the fruit with a good freshness and a sensation of warmth given by the wood. The set of aromas is in a such way inviting that it literally suggests a lemon meringue pie, both in aroma and taste, where the acidity is shown strong but with the expected rounding/creaminess conferred by the passage by wood. Good to go along with fish in the oven or grilled dishes with butter and lemon sauce. To end, the Bridão Reserva red 2013, which brings together the Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet, Tinta Roriz and Syrah grape varieties, and aged for 6 months in French oak barrels. All nicely wrapped with vegetal and fresh notes, forest fruits in very ripe black tones, the wood wraps the set and a plus note for the good work with the barrels. Good complexity in a serious profile that is easy to like, it’s appealing despite the slight austerity and it seems to have some tobacco, pepper, and slight balsamic showing up in the background. These are three quite appealing wines priced below € 10 that easily win the consumer at the table, if there is good food around.

Contacts
Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo
EN 365-2 2070-220
Cartaxo, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 243 770 987
Fax: (+351) 243 770 107
E-mail: geral@adegacartaxo.pt
Website: www.adegacartaxo.pt

Casa Ferreirinha – History and Art
March 16, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text Bruno Mendes

Founded in the eighteenth century by Bernardo Ferreira, the Casa Ferreirinha was acquired in 1987 by Sogrape. The wines produced by this house and the house itself are synonymous with history and art. An essential figure in the history of this company is, undoubtedly, Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferreira who, with her entrepreneurial spirit, refined the company’s formula and consolidated it.

Sogrape has been able to respect and preserve all the historical and cultural heritage that Casa Ferreirinha implies and has always kept up to the present day, but allowing the company to suit the innovation and the present. The company has several wine ranges, such as Vinha Grande, Esteva, Papa Figos, Planalto, Callabriga, Reserva Especial, Quinta da Leda, AAF and, of course, the legendary Barca Velha.

To get to know the history of this house a little better, see the video below:

Two Rosés from the Tejo – Casal da Coelheira 2015 and Tyto Alba 2015
March 14, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

The Comissão Vitivinícola Regional do Tejo has been sending wines for tasting and they deserve approval – if I may. I can’t write about them all, but there’s a few that show up so happy that there is no excuse or priority that pushes them out of the obligations room.

The companies that produce these two nectars are quite different, starting with the dimension up to the social nature. The company Casal da Coelheira was born in the early twentieth century and has 250 hectares, of which 64 are vineyards. Contrarily, the Companhia das Lezírias is a public limited company owned entirely by the state – 17,800 hectares (1,500 hectares are leased), of which 130 hectares of vineyards.

While being huge, I thought it was even bigger. Still, the Companhia das Lezírias is probably the largest Portuguese estate. If the numbers to which I had access are correct, the area almost comes close to the double of the city of Lisbon (10,000 hectares – Wikipedia).

I will write more, but I could summarize these two wines with an interjection:

– Oh summer! Come here now! Do not be long.

The Casal da Coelheira 2015 is fantastically simple, made on the basis of Touriga Nacional and Syrah. It brilliantly fulfills the function of fun with which it was probably designed. Easy to deal with, pleasant, sweet tooth without being a syrup, where pontificates the blackcurrant aroma. It’s decided! This one is mandatory for this summer! I would not match it with food – possibly a chicken salad with fruit. Wants to talk and will help with seduction … will make a positive contribution to the birth rate.

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Casal da Coelheira Rosé 2015 in casaldacoelheira.pt

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Tyto Alba Vinhas Protegidas Rosé 2015 in tytoalba.pt

The Tyto Alba Vinhas Protegidas 2015 is an absolute revelation. The name is beautiful! And more beautiful when it is known that it is honoring a magnificent bird: the coruja-das-torres (screech owl) – in Portugal is known by more names.

It is a revelation – for me – because I was not expecting anything comparable at all.

– What is this?! My God!

It was sort of like this. I am fond of rosés, I like them from the sweet up to the extra-dry. Weighing them all, this is (probably) the best Portuguese rosé I ever drank! If it’s not the best I drank, it is at least the one that has given me more pleasure.

It didn’t even benefit from any event that would delimitate it. A normal day of the week, I was neither stressed nor relaxed, neither sad nor happy, neither tired nor athletic, neither hungry nor satiated. I think I was at the ‘point zero’ or ‘point 50’ on a scale of zero to 100.

– What is this?! My God!

Very fresh, elegant, slick, party-animal, an unusual complexity, very easy, great for light fare, great for chatting, magnificent for dancing. With the advantage of weighing only 12.5%. I wished for that moment to never end.

The Tyto Alba Vinhas Protegidas 2015 results from the junction of Touriga Nacional and Merlot. Knowing the heat of the region and looking at the alcohol content of this nectar, I have to say:

– It’s well worth it not to consider rosés as a reds’ sub-product.

After the initial years – in which the rosés were odd, seen as a fad, a solution to use leftovers or a curiosity to help sell “the” wine – nowadays are made in Portugal many ‘true’ or ‘honest’ rosés, made with the will to make and build them well. Both of them are in the section of the national good rosés.

I can only applaud those who wanted to harvest the grapes earlier and engaged in making a wine and not a spare – I do not mean that there isn’t any other good rosés with more whieght and resulting from the grapes harvested for reds.

Unlike coruja-das-torres, the Tyto Alba Vinhas Protegidas 2015 flies by day and night. The bird is a protected species. The wine must be hunted to extinction. And will also help to make babies!

It was the wine, my God, it was the wine
March 7, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

The wine lives in me, not just because I like the drink but for all that goes with it. There are more economy texts about this sector than (probably) historical, anthropological or sociological.

30 years ago there were taverns in Lisbon… I mean real taverns, not beautiful places with scenario and poor’s food for the rich. Many snacks that – now they call them tapas, in Spanish is cuter, just a provincialism – were served to draw drink, some were even offered.

Today is raffiné (forced foreignness, a provocation because of what I wrote above) to serve fried potato peelings and charge as if they were silver potatoes. Back then they were offered and salty. Another funny thing – this one is pathetic but it helps to explain why cod fish was affordable food to the poor – were the splinters. Yes, nothing more than the dry “faithful friend” with salt. It was cheap and salty, entertained the mouth and called for more glasses.

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A tavern in Lisbon in Arquivo Municipal de Lisboa

Many taverns were also charcoal kiln. That meant the wine odors (bad), soot and sawdust got mixed together… yes, tavern’s alcoholics drank to the “limit”, the wood shavings were for easy cleaning… absorbers.

The taverns, nowadays exquisite, were ugly, nasty, smelly and poorly attended. The wine used to come in dirty wooden barrels of various sizes. For the nostalgic and romantic I say:

– No! Back then, the times were no better!

The text came to my mind because I was reliving the memories of a song from a brilliant Portuguese humorist. In 1977, the actor Herman José was also dedicated to music and released the disc (45 rpm) “Saca o saca-rolhas” (Draw the corkscrew). Besides the joke, the song is also a window to Portugal of 30 years ago.

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Herman José’s record “Saca o saca-rolhas”

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Bayberry Branch in wikimedia.org

«Saca o saca-rolhas, abre o garrafão, viver sem vinho não presta». (Draw the corkscrew, open the carboy, living without wine is no good”). This statement is (being generous) in the politically correct limit. Young people will hardly be aware of this and the foreigners certainly do not know it.

In the verses, in addition to consuming a carboy (five liters), it is also told of how the motorcyclists used to speed after drinking alcohol, risking a digestion stoppage by diving into the sea after the spree, and (as it appears) taking an extra passenger on the motorbike. Portuguese roads were a civil war, in the deaths’ department.

Of course there still exists some of that reality. However, it does not have the past’s indulgence and it is unanimously criticized. At that time, the wine was the main fuel that the Portuguese people used for getting drunk, more than beer… and spirit drinks were far from affordable.

This point deserves a historical framework. In 1974, Portugal stopped being a closed and controlled economy and was gradually opening up. In 1975, the colonies became independent, with financial implications. In the equation we have to put the oil crises, economic upheavals arising from political choices, etc.

If until 1974 the Scotch whiskey, for example, was “hidden” and the Spanish gin was tenebrous, the 1977 and 1983 bankruptcies, with interventions from the International Monetary Fund, made the border of alcoholic beverages visible.

The fresh money that flowed from Community sources, since 1986, helped change the paradigm. They have changed the various patterns of consumption, but the Portuguese still require for the wine to be cheap. They don’t even consider how much the producer invests, the risks and the prices at which he sells.

At the time of Herman’s corkscrew, consumption was very high and price very low – something also possible thanks to the production of vinho-a-martelo, a concoction that could also contain wine, but it was composed of a number of products that changed and altered it: falsification of foodstuffs.

The Portuguese are willing to pay one euro for a bottle of water or 60 cents for a coffee, but a wine above five euros is a piece of jewelry. I did the math and wine at the coffee’s price rate costs 15 euros (0.75 liters).

But I cannot finish this retrospective look without a popular verse, with the sarcasm of false naivety: ”À porta do Santo António está um ramo de loureiro, é uma pouca-vergonha fazer do santo tasqueiro” – “At St. Anthony church’s door there is a bayberry branch, it’s a shamelessness to make the holy, a tavern man”

At the door, the taverns had at the customer’s disposal, bayberry branches. Apparently, chewing these leaves makes the wine’s breath go away. Well, we can see that the revelers went back home tumbling down, but could prove their innocence when duely reprimanded by their wives because they didn’t have alcohol breath.

A convention: I know you know that I know you know that I know.

Casa Cadaval Wines – Padre Pedro, Padre Pedro Reserva, Casa Cadaval e Marquesa de Cadaval 2012
February 29, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Telling about the Casa Cadaval wines needs some prior information. I repeat: the history and the stories are an added value. Everything has an origin and explanation and the wine only gains in being more than just wine or simple food product. This producer can fill books.

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Casa Cadaval – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

A country with almost 900 years of existence has much to get to know. Over the centuries, some families ascended and other have fallen. In the midst of crises and wars some houses went over to the enemy side and others remained loyal to the country.

In two of the three periods in which it was necessary to fight for independence, the Cadaval blood was poured by the Portuguese side. The first two moments are related to our neighbors and the third with Napoleon’s frenchmen. In this last moment the Cadaval family accompanied the King and the rest of the court on the trip to Brazil.

In the dynastic crisis and war against Castela, 1383-1385, the constable Dom Nuno Alvares Pereira was a great strategist and commander of the Portuguese troops. The conflict ended with the Batalha de Aljubarrota, where the invaders were superior in number – the proportion varies according to the chroniclers and historians.

Dona Beatriz Pereira de Alvim, the constable’s daughter, married Dom Afonso, son of King Dom João I, out of wedlock, and that would come to be first Duke of Bragança. The first Cadaval member (though untitled) was Dom Álvaro, the fourth son of the second duke of Bragança – Dom Fernando.

From the first-born, Dom Rodrigo de Melo, the family was adding titles: earl of Olivença (1476 – only one holder), earl of Tentúgal (1504), marquis of Ferreira (1533) and duke of Cadaval (1648), marquis of Cadaval (second son of the eighth duke and the sole holder), and “relative honors” of the royal house.

The first duke of Cadaval was Dom Nuno Álvares Pereira de Melo, the third marquis of Ferreira, whose title was awarded by King Dom João IV, was grace for his role in the War of Restoration against Filipe III of Portugal – Filipe IV of Spain, grandson of the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, Carlos V, house of Habsburg.

So here you see the weight that the Cadaval name has in the history of Portugal. Olga Maria Nicolis di Robilant Álvares Pereira de Melo, Marchioness of Cadaval, via wedding, and a descendant of the Empress Catherine of Russia is an extremely important culture figure, praiseworthy and arts’ promoter, especially the music. Deceased in 1996, she was honored by the Sintra City Council, which gave her name to the Centro Cultural Olga Cadaval.

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Tasting Room – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

The aristocrat created friendship bonds from Pope Pius XII to important composers and writers, without ever looking at the political doctrine values, but instead to the talent and culture: Cole Porter, Maurice Ravel, Igor Stravinski, Mstislav Rostropovitch, José Vianna da Motta, Luís de Freitas Branco, Fernando Lopes Graça… just to name a few figures of music.

In Muge on the left bank of the Tejo river and 80 kilometers north of Lisbon, is located the property from where come the wines that are narrated here. It is an area of about 5,000 hectares, where live in harmony cattle, horses, forest and wine.

The property is managed by Teresa Schönborn, Olga Cadaval granddaughter. The name indicates the way to Germany. Her mother, Graziela Álvares Pereira de Melo, was married to Karl Anton von Schönborn, eighth Earl of Schönborn-Wiesentheid. The wine is also grown in the German areas: Schloss Schönborn (Rheingau – Reno) and Schloss Hallburg (Franken – Franconian).

Returning to the Tejo, in 1994 the Casa Cadaval abandoned the business of selling wine in bulk and it assumed itself as a producer and bottler, being one of the first companies of the region to focus on quality and a brand.

A base da gama é formada pela marca Padre Pedro, nome que homenageia um antigo prelado amigo da família. As mais recentes colheitas: Padre Pedro Branco 2014 (arinto, fernão  pires, verdelho e viognier), Padre Pedro Tinto 2012 (aragonês, cabernet sauvignon, merlot e trincadeira – seis meses de estágio em barricas de carvalho francês) e Padre Pedro Rosé 2013 (aragonês, merlot e touriga nacional).

The basis of the range is formed by the brand Padre Pedro, a name that pays homage to an old prelate family friend. The latest vintages: Padre Pedro white 2014 (Arinto, Fernão Pires, Verdelho and Viognier), Padre Pedro red 2012 (Aragonês, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Trincadeira – six months in French oak barrels) and Padre Pedro Rosé 2013 (Aragonês, Merlot and Touriga Nacional).

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Padre Pedro white – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

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Padre Pedro red – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

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Padre Pedro rosé – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

 

The white and the rosé come with a happy 12.5% alcohol, which makes them well suited for the summer, both for conversation, snacks or light meals. The red has one more percentage point up asks not heavy meat. Easy wines, in the best meaning of the word – relaxed and affordable (I think) to most wallets and easy to find.

A level above are the Padre Pedro Reserva white 2013 (Viognier and Arinto – six months in French oak barrels) and Padre Pedro Reserva red 2012 (Alicante Bouschet, Merlot, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira – eight months in French oak barrels and six months in the bottle). The white can be matched all the way up from spicy fish dishes to some not very fatty meat stews. The red is better with stronger and well spiced meats, from veal to pork.

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Padre Pedro Reserva white – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

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Padre Pedro Reserva red – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

The wines that have the domain’s name are monovarietal, produced from grapes with good performance. The latest are Casa Cadaval Trincadeira Preta in 2011 (a year of aging in new French oak barrels and more than a year in bottle), Casa Cadaval Pinot Noir 2012 (six months in French oak barrels and another half year in bottle) and Casa Cadaval Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (eight months in new French oak barrels and six months in bottle).

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Casa Cadaval Trincadeira Preta – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

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Casa Cadaval Pinot Noir – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

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Casa Cadaval Cabernet Sauvignon – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

At the pinnacle is a wine that does homage to Olga Cadaval. An excellent wine of the Tejo, with aromatic complexity and with strength and elegance on the palate – long lasting in the mouth. Although it is pleasurable, I think keeping it for three or four years will benefit it. The producer offers a ten years’ “guarantee” – metaphor.

The Marquesa de Cadaval 2012 is a red approved as Reserva. It’s a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira – aged a year in new French oak barrels and another year in bottle. It deserves to be served at the holiday table … or as assured the poet José Carlos Ary dos Santos: Christmas is when a man wants.

Contacts
Casa Cadaval
Rua Vasco da Gama
2125-317 Muge – Portugal
Tel: (+351) 243 588 040
Fax: (+351) 243 581 105
E-mail: geral@casacadaval.pt
Website: www.casacadaval.pt

Soalheiro, the excellence of 2015
February 26, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

This time I’m going to talk about the Alvarinho brand that I have most at home, and that for long years now has a reserved corner in the dark of my cellar. Many may wonder – Keep an Alvarinho in a wine cellar? Yes, it is true, I keep these and others because their conservation capacity is more than proven year after year, vintage after vintage. For those who look askance or are in doubt, I hope someday you have the good fortune of tasting one of the finest examples of the 90s or to not go back very far in time drinking a “simple” 2007 and, if it’s in a Magnum bottle even better.

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Soalheiro – Photo Provided by Quinta de Soalheiro | All Rights Reserved

The evolution or can I say perfection has been increasing visibly and the wines have known how to mirror that at every passing decade. Today more than ever the aromatic cleanness together with the characteristically energy of the local wines (Vinho Verde) makes the Soalheiro wines, among others, get another dimension when the time comes to get to the table. In this case, the genie of the lamp at the cellar is called António Luís Cerdeira and is the one who has been able to delight his legion of fans, in which I include myself, with his wines.

After the recent novelties that I already had the chance to report here, they will soon launch the Soalheiro Granit, as well as the new 2015 wines, from a vintage considered of excellence by the producer himself. In this case we’re talking about the youngest ranges, starting with the Soalheiro ALLO 2015, which results from a 50/50 blend of Alvarinho and Loureiro. From this junction is born a white wine full of flavors that invoke fruit and fresh flowers, is vibrant, very fragrant and at the same time light and fun, a wine that as soon as we realize the bottle is already over. It’s one of those whites that we like having at the table in a midsummer late afternoon to accompany some canapes or shellfishes au naturel.

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Soalheiro ALLO 2015 & Soalheiro Alvarinho 2015 – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

The second wine is the inevitable Soalheiro Alvarinho 2015 that for me is now much better in this vintage than in the previous one. In this wine I can note more freshness with the fruit less exposed, less mature and more graceful. For the rest of the wine we get the Soalheiro profile, where the grape variety descriptors appear in a set that immediately wins us with clean and well laid out aromas, good intensity and showing tense, very fresh and with mineral austerity in the background. The fruit (passion fruit, lychee, citrus) merges with the floral notes, a very light and thin spoonful of honey that connects everything and balancing itself very well with the acidity of the wine. Good to drink now with grilled tiger prawns or can be kept for two years to have a pleasant surprise.

Contacts
Quinta de Soalheiro
4960-010 Alvaredo, Melgaço
Tel: (+351) 251 416 769
Fax: (+351) 251 416 771
Email: quinta@soalheiro.com
Website: www.soalheiro.com

Quinta da Alameda red Reserva Especial 2012 e Quinta da Alameda red Jaen 2013
February 22, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

The Dão is rising. The region has awakened and started moving. As you would expect, there will be mistakes, nothing is perfect but just the fact of reacting is already worthy an applause. It is awaking and scoring points, walking the path to retrieve the status it once had. Merit has to be given to the Comissão Vitivinícola Regional, but this was only possible because there were producers determined to do well and get financial return.

Carlos Lucas is one of the men that led the rising with his passage in Dão Sul, nowadays Global Wines, a company that is now present in Alentejo, Bairrada, Douro, Lisboa, Vinho Verde and Brazil (Vale do São Francisco) as well.

Dão Sul appeared in 1990. The brands Quinta de Cabriz and Quinta dos Grilos introduced themselves with inviting prices and with easy consumer pleasing features. The success led them to expand beyond their cradle.

The wines from Quinta de Ribeiro Santo, located in Carregado do Sal, confirmed Carlos Lucas’ touch rightness. The Dão would not be the same today and would be perhaps very different without the work of this winemaker.

Quinta da Alameda is a partnership between Carlos Lucas and the businessman Luís Abrantes with activity in the furniture industry (Movecho). Amândio Cruz is in charge of the viticulture. It’s located in Santar, Nelas municipality. The area is small for the European standards but above the region’s average and it’s comprised by 50 hectares 15 of which are vineyard.

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The vineyard – Photo Provided by Quinta da Alameda | All Rights Reserved

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The vineyard – Photo Provided by Quinta da Alameda | All Rights Reserved

For those who like numbers, in 2009 from the total of 305.266 agricultural enterprises, 283.071 had less than 20 hectares – a number that has been getting smaller since 1979 (2,6 times inferior). The utilized agricultural area has also been decreasing, although at a smaller pace (1,4 times inferior). The Center region, where lies the Dão, is one of the regions with smaller size.

Let’s leave the numbers and move on to what matters the most. The two partners kept a portion of the old vine, where lie several grape varieties blended as tradition demands, and they transformed another portion where they planted Alfrocheiro, Baga, Jaen, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão and Touriga Nacional.

It’s located in an area where the altitude goes from 400 to 700 meters, close to Serra da Estrela and the Dão river. Translation to one word: freshness. The reason behind the choice of these new grape varieties was the production of sparkling wines.

The valorization of the old vines by observing the quality of the produced wines created a fashion. Those who have vines with 30 years say they are old… to me they are not. In Quinta da Alameda, the age of these plants is over 80 years.

Carlos Lucas confessed not being a fan of the Jaen grape variety. However, in Quinta da Alameda he changed his opinion, in 2012. The following year he vinified it separately. The result debuted recently and I’m going to talk about it a little further ahead.

The Dão region has a special classification category that can be compared to the Port Wine’s Vintage classification. Carlos Lucas says he doesn’t know if “Dão Nobre” was ever attributed and forseens it to be hard to happen.

The Quinta da Alameda red Reserva Especial 2012 was submitted to exam and did not earn the distinction, as the reader must have already understood from the previous paragraph. It was categorized as Reserva Especial, which in some way is the same. If the top is inaccessible, the level immediately below occupies its place.

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Carlos Lucas – Photo Provided by Quinta da Alameda | All Rights Reserved

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Quinta da Alameda red Reserva Especial 2012 – Photo Provided by Quinta da Alameda | All Rights Reserved

The received classification is fair! It’s a great wine and has what it should be expected from the Dão. The region lives in these bottles, where the memories of the old vines and the recognized categories have been kept since ever.

Quinta da Alameda red Reserva Especial 2012 was made with Alfrocheiro, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Cão and Touriga Nacional grapes… a pinch of Baga, outlawed grape variety despite its former presence around there in the past. The wine aged one year in French oak and another 12 months in bottle. It’s a wine with a great freshness, softness and elegance. A freshness that covers the 14 degrees of alcohol – you won’t even notice it.

The Quinta da Alameda red Jaen 2013 expresses well the grape variety. It’s an educational wine on two levels: What is the Jaen grape variety? and What is a Dão wine? – despite the tradition being blend wines. The aging in French oak casks lasted a year. It’s an equally red with freshness that provides good pleasure with elegance for which the region was/is known.

As you should expect, I don’t boss a thing in the Dão region, as I don’t in none of the others. Nonetheless, I think that by not validating wines as “Dão Nobre” the tasting panel is not benefiting anyone. It would be a good help for the older consumers to find themselves and for the newcomers to venture in the wonders that, in fact, exist in the region.

Other regions might get first a new designation for a higher classification, benefiting from the primacy. Each one knows of themselves and their businesses. This is my opinion and it’s worth whatever the reader wants it to be worth.

Let us remember that in Bordeaux, Burgundy or Champagne there are “never” bad years… they are either excellent or classic. The top classifications are used and France is what it is.

Alambre Moscatel Roxo 2010, I’m sexy and I know it
February 19, 2016 1 comment in Uncategorized by

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

The Moscatel Roxo de Setúbal grape variety is a rare grape that was in extinction risk in the last century. The difference to its white homonymous, Moscatel de Setúbal, starts in its purple hue but also in the refined differences of the aroma and palate, which originate exclusive and fine cut wines. And when we talk about its saving from extinction comes into play the oldest producer of Moscatel de Setúbal, José Maria da Fonseca.

It was by the hands of Fernando Soares Franco (5th generation of the family) that the last hectare of Moscatel Roxo in the region was saved. Back then it was located in Quinta de Camarate. Nowadays the grape variety spreads over about 40 ha in all the region, 10 of which belong to José Maria da Fonseca. This grape variety now shows its versatility in the hands of the experienced winemaking team, and the consumer can taste fortified wines, rosé and sparkling wines.

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Alambre Moscatel Roxo 2010 in jmf.pt

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Alambre Moscatel Roxo 2010 – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

The last novelty to be launched was this Alambre Moscatel Roxo 2010, an entry range Moscatel Roxo, which is accessible to a broader audience since the fortified wines from this house are generally more expensive than the others. So they decided to present a younger and modern Moscatel Roxo, fresh, direct and without all the complexity and density that, for example, a Roxo 20 years shows us. It’s a wine with the quality that this producer has already used us to but that at the same time can be enjoyed in a relaxing way at end of the afternoon in a balcony with our friends. This more direct approach is welcomed because not everything in life has to be faced in a suit and tie, with a formal tone just because the wine they pour into our glass so demands. Here and in this case with the Alambre Roxo 2010 we experience a festive mood, because the way that the set unfolds invites to that, it’s fresh, appealing, merges sweetness/acidity/concentration in such a way that becomes an immediate success at the table.

Contacts
Quinta da Bassaqueira – Estrada Nacional 10,
2925-542 Vila Nogueira de Azeitão, Setúbal, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 212 197 500
E-mail: info@jmf.pt
Website: www.jmf.pt