Posts By : João Pedro Carvalho

Quinta da Murta = Arinto

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

The region of Bucelas (demarcated since 1911) is situated at the gates of Lisbon, municipality of Loures. It is characterized by the production of white and sparkling wines based on the Arinto grape. It won fame abroad when during the Peninsular War/French Invasions, General Wellington may have taken a few casks of white Bucellas wine to King George III, and the “Lisbon Hock” started to be exported in large quantities to England. It may as well have been the wine Shakespeare immortalized with the name “Charneco”.

The entire region decayed for many years until the appearance of new projects at the beginning of the 1990s, when the figure of the oenologist Nuno Cancela de Abreu played a very important role.

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Vines Quinta da Murta – Photo By João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

One of the projects was Quinta da Murta, a wine estate with 27 hectares, located 2.5 km from Bucelas and approximately 20 km north of Lisbon, with the first harvest in 1994.

The property has 14.5 hectares of vineyard, planted at 250 meters of altitude on the valley slopes of the Boição stream, enjoying soils composed of limestone, with numerous fossils. With the natural presence of Arinto grape, whose natural acidity combined with the characteristics of the soil and the microclimate of the region allows Quinta da Murta to produce, now with the winemaker Hugo Mendes, unique wines with great potential for aging where the range of white and sparkling wines shines.

Blend_All_About_Wine_Quinta_da_Murta_The_Shakespeare_Wine

Quinta da Murta Reserva Bruto 2008 – Photo By João Pedro  de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Quinta da Murta Reserva Bruto 2008 (DOC Bucelas)
A small portion of the lot was fermented in used barrels, later maturing in the bottle. Shows an evolved, complex Arinto, with very fresh aromas, ripe citrus, lemon pie, lemon tree leaf, apple, very live and direct with minerality in the background. Mouth with a lot of frills, mousse with slight citrus, liveliness and minerality sensation in the background, beautiful acidity with a persistent and dry finish. A sparkling wine that calls for seafood dishes, for example, mussels or clams au natural with only a few drops of lemon juice and chopped coriander. Enjoy!

Contacts
Quinta da Murta, Estrada Velha do Boição nº 300
2670-632 Bucelas Portugal
Tel: 210 155 190
Mobile: 932 857 750
Fax: 210 155 193
Email: qmurtageral@hotmail.com
Site: www.quintadamurta.pt

Caves São João – Porta dos Cavaleiros Reserva Seleccionada 1983 – 1985

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

It is not possible to speak of the history of Dão wine, one of the oldest wine regions of Portugal, demarcated in 1908, and not mention the charismatic Caves São João and their mythical Porta dos Cavaleiros of the 60s and 70s.

Some of them are even part of the group of the best wines ever made in Portugal. The Caves São João were founded in 1920 by brothers José, Manuel and Albano Ferreira da Costa, but only in 1959 with the descendants of the founders, Alberto and Luis Costa, would there be brands to launch the Caves São João to superstardom, the Frei João (Bairrada) and the Porta dos Cavaleiros (Dão) whose Reserva sported a beautiful and innovative for the time, cork label.

Caves S. João –  Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Without having their own vineyards or even cellar in the Dão region, they were limited to buying wine in local cooperatives and in some estates for later stage and blending in its headquarters located in Bairrada. Here the great knowledge that the brothers Alberto and Luis Costa held of the region was decisive, a fact which helped them to acquire stock up in a continuous manner, some of the best wines of the region.

The mastery with which they dominated the art of the blend and taking into account the quality of the “raw materials” available, made it possible to create wines of high quality, with their very own imprint, allied with a markedly classic profile of the Dão region, wines that persist in their majority up to the present day.

With the evolution of times and the consequent evolution of the region, became DOC in 1990, at the end of the 1980s many who had previously provided the Caves São João with grapes embarked on their own production. This way the quality of the available wines to buy as you would expect, suffered a severe blow. In the stillness of the cellars reside today more than one million bottles that have pristinely resisted the passage of time and whose wines in most cases show an enviable health. It is a privilege and a rare opportunity for wine consumers to come into contact with all the glory and splendor of times that will not return.

Porta dos Cavaleiros Reserva Seleccionada 1985 – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Porta dos Cavaleiros Reserva Seleccionada 1983 (Dão)

An amazing wine that immediately brings us back to its region of origin, Dão. Needs time in the glass, complex and deep, with a lot of bush, cinnamon, herbs, juicy, clean and fresh black fruit (cherry, raspberry) accompanied by notes of violet, smoked, a little bit earthy and spicy. More robust than the 1985 with a more accentuated herbaceous presence, full of harmony in the mouth with very ripe fruit, cherry, pine and spice, all with great freshness, medium body in a silky passage by the palate, full of vitality, long and persistent finish.

Porta dos Cavaleiros Reserva Seleccionada 1985 (Dão)

A classic aroma from the region, almost in the form of a compendium, cooler and more defined than the 1983, although at the same level of quality, here with the power of a very lively red fruit (berry), dry tobacco, smoke, dry plum, pine forest, lots of finesse. Mouth full of lively and succulent fruit with a texture that won’t go down, satin in the palate, a real pleasure to drink with an amazing capacity to shine with good food, fantastic balance and an enviable freshness. World class wine? Why not.

Contacts
Caves de São João
São João da Azenha, Anadia, Ap-1
3781-901 – Avelãs de Caminho, Portugal
Phone: + 351 234 743 118
Email: geral@cavessaojoao.com
Site: http://www.cavessaojoao.com/

Roques & Maias – The New Classics of Dão

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

If there are outstanding producers, both at the level of the Region (Dão) or the level of wines they produces, Quinta dos Roques (Mangualde) together with Quinta das Maias (São Paio de Gouveia) are two of these cases. They were considered as two of the best producers of Portugal and one of the pillars of the Dão Region.

The Quinta dos Roques is situated at 450 meters of altitude with a predominance of sandy soils with presence of granite. A total of 40 ha divided into 12 plots, in 1978 the vineyard was converted back to what we know today. The Quinta das Maias is situated in the foothills of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park, at 600 meters of altitude, and the wine has been made since 1992 at Quinta dos Roques.

The dominant feature since they appeared in 1990 is the fantastic balance that their wines can show between elegance and power, the perfect combination of classic and modern, combined with a tremendous gastronomic vocation. In them we find a central thread that they knew how to maintain through time and throughout their range, as well as an enviable consistency harvest after harvest, always oblivious to trends or the temptations of quick satisfaction mercantilism, showing a healthy austerity that allows them to be fully enjoyed while young.

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Quinta das Maias (Jaen 1999) – Quinta dos Roques (Touriga Nacional 1999 | Alfrocheiro Preto 1999 | Reserva 1999) Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

The man behind all of this is Luís Lourenço, member of the wine producers group – Independent Winegrowers Association and one of the pioneers and the responsible for the resurgence of the “new” Dão, the one we now partly know and appreciate. Keeping his loyalty to the region, he partially broke with the traditional wines and soon decided to vinify solo the grape varieties he produced. This resulted in a better understanding of the varieties and their locations, allowing him to enhance the profile of the wines produced, both in Roques and in Maias and understand what the best contribution of each should be to the final blend. The culmination of their studies appears for the first time in the year of 1996 with the release of their first single variety called Collection. This initiative has been repeated until the present day whenever the years have the quality to do so. During the first years Prof. Virgílio Loureiro was in charge of the oenology giving place in 2002 to Rui Reguinga.

The tasting began with the white Quinta dos Roques Encruzado, a wine that needs to rest two to three years after being placed on the market to gain another dimension on the level of complexity of flavors and aromas. In this case it is a 2004 that in ten years shows in fullness its capabilities. In the reds a small retrospective from the year 1999, with all the wines presenting 12.5% Vol: Quinta das Maias Jaen, Quinta dos Roques Alfrocheiro Preto, Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional and Quinta dos Roques Reserva.

Quinta dos Roques Encruzado 2004 (DOC Dão): Spectacular surroundings of flavors, complexity wrapped in a fresh wave, a touch of molasses. Fruit (Citrus) ripe, succulent, resin, sweet lemon, deep and captivating. Mouth with good freshness to involve the fruit, unctuous, good presence with great harmony, long and persistent finish.

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Encruzado Quinta dos Roques 2004 – Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Quinta das Maias Jaen 1999 (DOC Dão): is a real good treat, full of clean fruit (raspberry, cherry, blueberry), round and pudgy, wrapped in freshness. Fragrant, always with a slight rustic touch, wood, flowers, pine. Delicate and refined complexity with a palate of velvet so characteristic of Dão, fresh and still with some grapple to show dryness in a protracted and spicy finish.

Quinta dos Roques Alfrocheiro Preto 1999 (DOC Dão): darker and more compact than the Jaen, fresh fruit, dense and greedier with emphasis on strawberry, berry, very impressive with raw tomatoes and spices to complement. Enters more tasty and tamed in the mouth, more acidity, this surrounded by a herbal note, a lot of good fruit through a set of great presence and immersion, long finish.

Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional 1999 (DOC Dão): In the nose a very good violet perfume, good developments in the glass with shining and very mature fruit (berries, blueberries, bergamot), vanilla, cinnamon, pine, chocolate, tobacco a deep and talkative set. Mouth with huge life and presence, great class with harmony and taste, marked by the opulent fruit which is chewed, dry leaf tobacco, long and persistent finish from a glorious Touriga Nacional.

Quinta dos Roques Reserva 1999 (DOC Dão): Shows the art and mastery of the blend, showing the perfect understanding of the varieties in a set full of class, tertiary aromas of great quality, fine complexity of a very composed, cool and inviting set. Mouth with freshness, alive and tasty fruit to mark a very tasteful palate, good concentration in balance with acidity, body of medium structure. Without tiring is a wine that shines on the table with the most varied gastronomy. A pleasure.

Contacts
Quinta dos Roques
Rua da Paz – Abrunhosa do Mato
3530-050 Cunha Baixa – Portugal
Phone: 00 351 232 614 511
Email: info@quintaroques.pt
Site: www.quintaroques.pt/

Roques & Maias – Os Novos Clássicos do Dão

Texto João Pedro de Carvalho

Se há produtores marcantes quer ao nível da Região quer ao nível dos vinhos que produz, o proprietário da Quinta dos Roques (Mangualde) e da Quinta das Maias (São Paio de Gouveia) é seguramente um desses casos, assumindo-se como um dos melhores produtores de Portugal e um dos pilares da Região do Dão.

A Quinta dos Roques fica situada a 450 metros de altitude, onde predominam os solos arenosos com presença de granito. Num total de 40 hectares divididos em 12 parcelas, viu em 1978 o seu vinhedo ser reconvertido para o que conhecemos hoje em dia. A Quinta das Maias fica situada no sopé da Serra da Estrela, em pleno Parque Natural a 600 metros de altitude, sendo a vinificação feita, desde 1992, na Quinta dos Roques.

A característica dominante desde que surgiram em 1990 é o fantástico equilíbrio que os seus vinhos conseguem mostrar entre elegância e potência, numa combinação perfeita entre o clássico e o moderno, aliada a uma tremenda vocação gastronómica. Neles encontramos um fio condutor que se soube manter através do tempo e ao longo da sua gama, tal como uma invejável consistência colheita após colheita, sempre alheados de modas ou das tentações mercantilistas do agrado fácil, mostram uma saudável austeridade que mesmo assim lhes permite um desfrute pleno enquanto novos.

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Quinta das Maias (Jaen 1999) – Quinta dos Roques (Touriga Nacional 1999 | Alfrocheiro Preto 1999 | Reserva 1999) – Foto de João Pedro Carvalho | Todos os Direitos Reservados

O grande responsável por tudo isto é Luís Lourenço, membro do grupo de produtores Independent Winegrowers Association e um dos pioneiros e principais responsáveis pelo ressurgimento do “novo” Dão, aquele que em parte hoje conhecemos e apreciamos. Mantendo-se leal no que toca à região, quebrou em parte com os tradicionais vinhos de lote e cedo decidiu vinificar a solo as castas de que dispunha. Daqui resultou um melhor entendimento das castas e dos seus locais, permitindo aprimorar o perfil dos vinhos produzidos, tanto nos Roques como nas Maias e entender qual o melhor contributo de cada uma para o lote final. O culminar desses seus estudos surge pela primeira vez no ano de 1996 com o lançamento dos seus primeiros monocasta a que chamou Colecção e cuja iniciativa se tem repetido até aos dias de hoje sempre que os anos tenham qualidade para tal. Durante os primeiros anos a enologia esteve a cargo do Prof. Virgílio Loureiro que deu lugar em 2002 a Rui Reguinga.

Início de prova com o branco Quinta dos Roques Encruzado, um vinho que precisa de descansar dois a três anos após ser colocado no mercado para ganha uma outra dimensão, a nível da complexidade de sabores e aromas. Neste caso é um 2004 que com dez anos se mostra na plenitude das suas capacidades. Nos tintos foi feita uma pequena retrospetiva do ano 1999 em que todos os vinhos em prova se apresentaram com 12,5%Vol., estando presente o Quinta das Maias Jaén, Quinta dos Roques Alfrocheiro Preto, Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional e Quinta dos Roques Reserva.

Quinta dos Roques Encruzado 2004 (DOC Dão): Espetacular envolvência de aromas, complexidade envolta numa onda fresca com toque melado. Fruta (Citrinos) madura, suculenta, resina, rebuçado de limão, profundo e cativante. Boca com boa frescura a envolver a fruta, untuoso, grande presença com muita harmonia, final longo e persistente.

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Encruzado Quinta dos Roques 2004 – Foto de João Pedro Carvalho | Todos os Direitos Reservados

Quinta das Maias Jaén 1999 (DOC Dão): É um miminho bom, cheio de fruta (amora, cereja, mirtilo) limpa, redonda e rechonchuda, envolta em frescura. Perfumado, sempre com um ligeiro toque rústico, bosque, flores, pinheiro. Delicada e refinada complexidade com palato de veludo tão característico do Dão, fresco e ainda com alguma garra a mostrar secura num prolongado e especiado final.

Quinta dos Roques Alfrocheiro Preto 1999 (DOC Dão): Mais escuro e fechado que o Jaén, fresco, fruta densa e mais gulosa com destaque para morango, bagas silvestres muito envolvente com rama de tomate e especiarias a complementar. Entra mais saboroso e domado na boca, mais acidez presente envolta por uma capa vegetal, muita e boa fruta pelo meio num conjunto de grande presença e envolvência, final longo.

Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional 1999 (DOC Dão): Sente-se a Touriga no nariz, violetas, bom perfume, evolução grande no copo com fruta resplandecente e muito madura (bagas, mirtilos, bergamota), baunilha, caruma, pinheiro, chocolate e tabaco num conjunto profundo e conversador. Boca com enorme vida e presença, muita classe com harmonia e sabor marcado pela fruta opulenta que se mastiga, folha seca de tabaco, final longo e persistente deste glorioso Touriga Nacional.

Quinta dos Roques Reserva 1999 (DOC Dão): Mostra a arte e mestria do lote, depois de provadas algumas das principais castas que lhe compõem o lote, faltou Tinta Roriz e Tinto Cão. Perfeito entendimento das castas num conjunto cheio de classe, terciários de grande qualidade, fina complexidade de um conjunto muito composto, fresco e apelativo. Boca com frescura, fruta viva e saborosa a marcar o palato, boa concentração em equilíbrio com acidez e corpo de média estrutura. Sem cansar, este vinho brilha à mesa com a mais variada gastronomia. Um prazer.

Contactos
Quinta dos Roques
Rua da Paz – Abrunhosa do Mato
3530-050 Cunha Baixa – Portugal
Phone: 00 351 232 614 511
Email: info@quintaroques.pt
Site: www.quintaroques.pt/

Roques & Maias – The New Classics of Dão

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

If there are outstanding producers, both at the level of the Region (Dão) or the level of wines they produces, Quinta dos Roques (Mangualde) together with Quinta das Maias (São Paio de Gouveia) are two of these cases. They were considered as two of the best producers of Portugal and one of the pillars of the Dão Region.

The Quinta dos Roques is situated at 450 meters of altitude with a predominance of sandy soils with presence of granite. A total of 40 ha divided into 12 plots, in 1978 the vineyard was converted back to what we know today. The Quinta das Maias is situated in the foothills of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park, at 600 meters of altitude, and the wine has been made since 1992 at Quinta dos Roques.

The dominant feature since they appeared in 1990 is the fantastic balance that their wines can show between elegance and power, the perfect combination of classic and modern, combined with a tremendous gastronomic vocation. In them we find a central thread that they knew how to maintain through time and throughout their range, as well as an enviable consistency harvest after harvest, always oblivious to trends or the temptations of quick satisfaction mercantilism, showing a healthy austerity that allows them to be fully enjoyed while young.

FOTO 1 - ROQUES

Quinta das Maias (Jaen 1999) – Quinta dos Roques (Touriga Nacional 1999 | Alfrocheiro Preto 1999 | Reserva 1999) Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

The man behind all of this is Luís Lourenço, member of the wine producers group – Independent Winegrowers Association and one of the pioneers and the responsible for the resurgence of the “new” Dão, the one we now partly know and appreciate. Keeping his loyalty to the region, he partially broke with the traditional wines and soon decided to vinify solo the grape varieties he produced. This resulted in a better understanding of the varieties and their locations, allowing him to enhance the profile of the wines produced, both in Roques and in Maias and understand what the best contribution of each should be to the final blend. The culmination of their studies appears for the first time in the year of 1996 with the release of their first single variety called Collection. This initiative has been repeated until the present day whenever the years have the quality to do so. During the first years Prof. Virgílio Loureiro was in charge of the oenology giving place in 2002 to Rui Reguinga.

The tasting began with the white Quinta dos Roques Encruzado, a wine that needs to rest two to three years after being placed on the market to gain another dimension on the level of complexity of flavors and aromas. In this case it is a 2004 that in ten years shows in fullness its capabilities. In the reds a small retrospective from the year 1999, with all the wines presenting 12.5% Vol: Quinta das Maias Jaen, Quinta dos Roques Alfrocheiro Preto, Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional and Quinta dos Roques Reserva.

Quinta dos Roques Encruzado 2004 (DOC Dão): Spectacular surroundings of flavors, complexity wrapped in a fresh wave, a touch of molasses. Fruit (Citrus) ripe, succulent, resin, sweet lemon, deep and captivating. Mouth with good freshness to involve the fruit, unctuous, good presence with great harmony, long and persistent finish.

FOTO 2 - ROQUES

Encruzado Quinta dos Roques 2004 – Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Quinta das Maias Jaen 1999 (DOC Dão): is a real good treat, full of clean fruit (raspberry, cherry, blueberry), round and pudgy, wrapped in freshness. Fragrant, always with a slight rustic touch, wood, flowers, pine. Delicate and refined complexity with a palate of velvet so characteristic of Dão, fresh and still with some grapple to show dryness in a protracted and spicy finish.

Quinta dos Roques Alfrocheiro Preto 1999 (DOC Dão): darker and more compact than the Jaen, fresh fruit, dense and greedier with emphasis on strawberry, berry, very impressive with raw tomatoes and spices to complement. Enters more tasty and tamed in the mouth, more acidity, this surrounded by a herbal note, a lot of good fruit through a set of great presence and immersion, long finish.

Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional 1999 (DOC Dão): In the nose a very good violet perfume, good developments in the glass with shining and very mature fruit (berries, blueberries, bergamot), vanilla, cinnamon, pine, chocolate, tobacco a deep and talkative set. Mouth with huge life and presence, great class with harmony and taste, marked by the opulent fruit which is chewed, dry leaf tobacco, long and persistent finish from a glorious Touriga Nacional.

Quinta dos Roques Reserva 1999 (DOC Dão): Shows the art and mastery of the blend, showing the perfect understanding of the varieties in a set full of class, tertiary aromas of great quality, fine complexity of a very composed, cool and inviting set. Mouth with freshness, alive and tasty fruit to mark a very tasteful palate, good concentration in balance with acidity, body of medium structure. Without tiring is a wine that shines on the table with the most varied gastronomy. A pleasure.

Contacts
Quinta dos Roques
Rua da Paz – Abrunhosa do Mato
3530-050 Cunha Baixa – Portugal
Phone: 00 351 232 614 511
Email: info@quintaroques.pt
Site: www.quintaroques.pt/

Conceito White – A Great Wine of Douro Superior

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

During a recent visit to the Douro Superior I had the opportunity to taste some samples of what is one of the best whites made in Portugal, the Conceito from the winemaker Rita Marques Ferreira. In total four of the six crops that have already been launched in the market were tried, I would remind you that the first release of this white was 2006, but in the tasting I only had 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 joined at the last minute by the 2012.

This fantastic white wine is born in the land of Cedovim (Douro Superior) in the Quinta do Cabido where the 10 hectares of vineyards reside, in exclusivity for white varieties on a plateau located at 500 meters of altitude. The transition of soils is made from schist to granite, in part responsible for the exceptional quality of these wines. The other part is the young winemaker Rita Ferreira, influenced by the time she was in Bordeaux where she was a student and an intern of the “guru” of white Bordeaux (Denis Dubourdieu).

In the very own vision that this young winemaker has for the region and the wines she creates, a white wine is born with a very peculiar concept, a different profile, fresher, without sharp edges and where the detail and the balance are the words of order. The white blend is dominated by the local varieties, Rabigato, Códega, Códega do Larinho and Gouveio from very old vineyards. The stage in wood has to be adjusted and the new barrels gave rise to used barrels (French and Caucasus). The good news, or confirmation of what few thought at the beginning, is that the evolution of the wines in question has been fabulous. Moreover, the Conceito has been refined over the course of its “short” six harvests of history, always showing predicates more than enough to win in its own right a place among the great white wines of Portugal.

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Alto Douro Vinhateiro – Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Conceito white 2008 (DOC Douro)
Complex and elegant, broad with the feeling of toasted bread showing a very well integrated wood with a set full of harmony that combines freshness with flowers and quality fruit (citrus, pear) wrapped in light syrup. Nothing nipped by time, mouth full of flavor, freshness and finesse, a rich body full of detail in a fresh background accompanied by hints of minerals in a long and persistent finish.

Conceito white 2009 (DOC Douro)
Broader and more textured than the 2008, much freshness in a set with a sound fruit (citrus, peach), ripe and clean, nothing touched by time with great purity of assembly. A little less expressive, but always with the characteristic harmony and class, shows notes of a fully integrated smoked wood, that rounds and packs it in the palate, without losing the fresh taste and mineral background.

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Conceito White – Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Conceito white 2010 (DOC Douro)
From this harvest on, wood has lost its presence, giving even more place to fruit (grapefruit, lime and peach) that thus presents itself with greater freshness and definition. The whole remains equally on a great level, complex and profound, more floral and mineral, although much richer in delicacy. Minerality felt in a fresh set, with a force that shows greater feeling of purity throughout the tasting.

Conceito white 2011 (DOC Douro)
Very fine acidity and set, much more outlined in aromas and flavors. Complex with the good exuberance of fruit (citrus, pear). Wood in great harmony, adjusted with a mouth full of flavor and freshness, great class in a tasting full of pleasure and vivacity.

Conceito white 2012 (DOC Douro)
We are dominated by citrus fruit and by minerality, little or no signal of wood, only one note of toasted bread that marks the entire line. After that, we are almost held hostage to a slightly mineral austerity that dominates briefly both the nose and the palate, in a set that is still tense, full of nerves, that you can even find it a bit hard on the palate and closed on the nose.

Contacts
Conceito – Vinhos
Tel: (+351) 939 000 350
Fax: (+351) 279 778 059
Email: conceito@conceito.com.pt
Site: www.conceito.com.pt

Alambre 20 Years … The magic of the Moscatel of Setúbal

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

Portugal is the only country in the World able to put on the same table three World-class generous wines, from three fantastic and unique regions. I’m talking about Port Wine, Madeira Wine and of course the Moscatel of Setúbal.
In the case of the Moscatel of Setúbal it’s a generous wine with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) recognized since 1907. However, at José Maria da Fonseca, the production of these wines dates back to 1834 which allows it to have a unique heritage of Moscatel wines in stock.

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Alambre 20 Anos Moscatel de Setúbal – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

The Alambre 20 Years are elaborated from the Moscatel grape variety planted in clay-limestone soils. From its annual production part of it is intended for a more prolonged aging in wooden casks using the mythical Cellar of Teares Velhos (Vila Nogueira de Azeitão).
The wine in question is a mandatory reference and one of my favorites, having an indisputable place among the best sweet wines of Portugal, with a price around € 24, it gives you an enviable price/satisfaction ratio. The result of a set of great Moscatel, aged and blended with skill, the result is a blend of 19 harvests in which the newest is at least 20 years old and the oldest is close to 80 years.
A very complex and intense wine, with elegant notes of dried fruit, candied orange and honey. Noble volatile acidity, wrapped in freshness and harmony. Mouth with great presence, unctuosity side by side with great freshness, soft taste with molasses and fruit and a wonderful finish. It is a perfect match for a good dark chocolate with orange or simply to end a dinner among friends in great class.

Contacts
José Maria da Fonseca, S.A.
Quinta da Bassaqueira, Estrada Nacional 10
2925-542, Vila Nogueira de Azeitão, Setúbal, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 212 197 500
Email: info@jmf.pt
Site: www.jmf.pt

The Javali (wild boar) terroir…

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

The Douro has been one of Portugal’s wine regions with more media coverage lately, where there are many Quintas of undeniable historical importance in the sector of Port Wine and that most recently have gained notoriety as producing still and sparkling wine (table wine). Trying to discover a latest project that distinguishes itself above all by the quality of table wines without having the weight of history falling back on their vineyards will not be easy but won’t be impossible either.

Proof of this is the Sociedade Agrícola Quinta do Javali, a family-owned company founded in 2000 with the objective of producing and marketing (it exports 80% of its production) their own wines DOC Douro and Port. Located on the left bank of the Douro River in Nagoselo do Douro, São João da Pesqueira (Cima Corgo). The Quinta do Javali saw 10 of its 20 hectares being replanted with the grape varieties of the region: Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão, Tinta Barroca and Touriga Nacional.

The owner and winemaker, José António Mendes is passionate about his work, you can see the brightness in his eyes when the conversation shifts and we are talking about their wines. While we are tasting the new releases from Quinta do Javali, António explains that he tries to do all the work in the vineyard, avoiding interfering with the winery, the yeasts are indigenous, the wines are all made of mill with foot treading and combine power with an incredible freshness. We don’t find here easy wines with the capacity of an immediate satisfaction, they require patience, showing a greater density, layers of flavors and aromas, freshness with structured tannins still present that makes decanting almost compulsory.

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Quinta dos Lobatos 2013 | Quinta do Javali Reserva 2011 | Quinta do Javali Vinhas Velhas 2011 – Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Quinta dos Lobatos 2013 (DOC Douro)
Just launched on the market, austere with lots of mature fruit, nuts with some jam, but all very clean, spicy, note of herbs, fleshy, wins with time in the glass. Mouth full of force and freshness with the fruit to explode with flavor, dryness in the end, black pepper, minerality with a very good finish.

Quinta do Javali Reserva 2011 (DOC Douro)

Spends 18 months in barrel, more impressive than the Quinta de Lobatos, more integrated barrel despite the might of the cocoa and tobacco, shows fruit jam, floral and sweet spices. Mouth with elegance allowed by tannins wrapped in structure dominated by mature fruit, fresh, conqueror with less austerity.

Quinta do Javali Touriga Nacional 2012 (DOC Douro)

With a very limited edition (600 bottles) the wine is a provocation to the senses, fruit marked by freshness and great quality, lightweight marmalade, the perfume of violets and herbs, tobacco, pepper, complex, ambitious, compact and provocative. Mouth full of freshness and flavor, tasty, fills the entire palate in a wide structure in a grand finish.

Quinta do Javali Vinhas Velhas 2011 (DOC Douro)

This wine is a true juggernaut. Arrives in breathtaking quality, dominates us completely and shows in the nose all the good austerity of the Douro. Firm structure and very good wood that sustains without excesses (20 months in barrel), fruit very clean and juicy with balsamic, spices and notes of vanilla, dark chocolate. Huge force and complexity, with layers of aromas and flavors, firm without shaking, it feeds on time in the glass or decanter, grows, gains new forms but always tense, always new. In the mouth it is fresh and broad, fruit that is chewed, tasty, energetic and great dryness in the long and persistent finish.

Quinta do Javali Special Cuvée 2012 (DOC Douro)

This wine is a taste of luxury, softer and more delicate than the Vinhas Velhas, conquests by finesse, complexity and at the same time follows the same energy so characteristic of the wines of this Quinta. The most striking is the delicate and beautiful floral perfume that shows next to blackcurrants and raspberries very fresh and clean, almost flavors in HD, almost rounded corners with a smoked touch and some vanilla. In the mouth it shows a beautiful freshness, great harmony with a huge presence on the palate, very long finish.

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Quinta do Javali LBV Port 2007/2008/2009 – Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Quinta do Javali Tawny 20 Years (Porto)
The wine has delicate harmony and a good dose of freshness, you can tell that it does not have the same complexity that comes from a blend with older wines as other 20 Years for sale on the market do. Good dried fruit, candied orange, caramel, all wrapped in a very pleasant long final.

Quinta do Javali LBV Port 2009 (Porto)

Tasting of LBV 07, 08 and 09, the latter was the one that stood out the most, in spite of all of them being at a very good quality level. The 2009 stood out by the greed of fruit with its presence, freshness of a broader set and juicier than the others. In the mouth more presence of jammy fruit, chocolate and mild spices fresh and long finish.

Contacts
Sociedade Agrícola Quinta do Javali
Apartado 71
5130-909 S. João da Pesqueira
Email: antoniomendes@quintadojavali.com
Site: www.quintadojavali.com

Independent Winegrowers's Association, a Decade of Excellence

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

The group of friends composed by Luís Lourenço (Quinta dos Roques – Dão), Luis Pato (Luis Pato Wines – Bairrada), Pedro Araújo (Quinta do Ameal – Vinhos Verdes), Joao Pedro Araújo (Casa de Cello – Vinhos Verdes/Dão) and Domingos Alves de Sousa (Alves de Sousa – Douro) decided to create a group (IWA) with the aim of making a joint promotion in foreign markets. They are all examples of producers of excellence, with strong character whose wines are faithful to the regions they represent.

The IWA celebrated on May 10, 2014 their 10th Anniversary. The annual meeting took place in Lisbon and gave place to the presentation of the latest news to be launched into the market, all a privilege of one afternoon to taste the best that Portugal (or part of it) has to offer.

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White Wine Commemorative Edition of 10 years IWA – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

A journey in a tasting format that begins in the Vinho Verde region, from the minerality of Sanjoanne Casa de Cello to the perfumes and charms of Loureiro of Quinta do Ameal. Descending a little we enter to the Douro lands with Alves de Sousa, earthy wines, marked by the terroir as the Quinta da Gaivosa or the great Abandonado, lost in time as the fabulous Porto 20 Year Old Tawny. From Dão region we get the Quinta dos Roques, where the palate caressed by the red silk that is the Roques Garrafeira or by the succulent freshness of red fruit of the Roques Reserva.

Still in Dão, and without forgetting the top wine of Quinta da Vegia which shows all the beauty of the region in a glass, by his side is the Vegia Reserva, more austere and ready for the curves of time. The journey ends in Bairrada, where Luis Pato presents a Baga of reference from the Vinha Barrosa or in the delicacy of the charms that the white Vinha Formal only shows with the time.

At the end we look at the pathway and at what has been tasted, and we are convinced that we have tasted high-quality wines that deserve to be known, able to shine high in any part of the world.

Quinta Sanjoanne Alvarinho 2013 (Regional Minho)

It is a novelty of the producer, an Alvarinho tense and mineral with clean fruit without tropical aroma in excess, tense and with very good freshness. In the mouth, very tasty in passing through the palate, mineral in the background with fruit juice, lemonade dryness at the end with good persistence. Full of detail and beautiful lace, a refined Alvarinho that will be delightful in accompanying some clams or mussels au naturel.

Quinta da Vegia Superior 2007 (DOC Dão)

A red wine of respect that stayed “forgotten” but well-kept by the producer. The wine is pure elegance, charm and complexity of fresh and live fruit, light touch of jam with all the distinctive atmosphere of a great wine from the Dão region.

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Quinta Sanjoanne Alvarinho 2013 | Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas white 2013 – Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Abandonado 2009 (DOC Douro)
Of an abandoned vineyard the Abandonado was born, a top of the range of the Douro region that conquers by its perfume of violets, mint and succulent fruit with a sweet touch, tobacco, much freshness with a luxurious structure. Large and very tasty, elegant on the palate, rich and full of flavor of enormous presence, long and peppery final.

Quinta da Gaivosa 20 Years Old Tawny Porto (Port Wine)
The blend has an average age of 20 years with very old wines of great quality in the mix. Complexity and elegance that will make you want to have always a little more, the rest is the classic aromas and flavors associated with this type of high-quality wines, soft in the mouth, and a long spicy final.

Luis Pato Vinha Formal white 2013 (Regional Beiras)
Year after year it is stated as a point of reference for the region and the producer, a white that enjoys aging and that the tasting in this moment is full of energy, pudgy fruit, yellow flowers, pollen, all together in a complex and delicate wine. In the mouth it is complemented, always with that bitter dryness at the end with the yellow ripe fruit accompanied by flowers at the beginning.

Luis Pato Vinha Barrosa 2011 (Regional Beiras)
The Baga at the highest level, more serious and more austere than the Vinha Pan, the Barrosa can immediately win by their complexity and aromatic richness. A complete luxury by the purity of flavors, by how the balsamic and the foliage of tomato join the dark and succulent fruit (cherry, black blueberries), a touch of pepper in a set that is still very new but that gives immediate proof of luxury to accompany a wild boar stew.

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Luis Pato Vinha Pan 2010 | Luis Pato Vinha Barrosa 2011 | Luis Pato 2009 – Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Quinta do Ameal Classico 2013 (Vinho Verde)
A compendium of what a great wine is, made of Loureiro, very fresh, charming and conqueror by the quality and definition of aromas and flavors, all in HD, freshness and minerality that mark the palate associated with fruit wrapped in syrup that delights the palate.

Quinta do Ameal Escolha 2012 (Vinho Verde)
The top of the range of the producer, the most serious and the one that has the least to say while new. You can Feel the austerity, bay leaf still green, clean and mature fruit, very good structure supported by the wood through which it has rested. Mineral background in a wine with a long life ahead.

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Quinta do Ameal Escolha 2004 | Quinta do Ameal Loureiro 2004 – Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Quinta dos Roques Bical 2013 (DOC Dão)
Only 1200 bottles, a very particular bet from the producer in this delicate and very fresh wine with aromas of flowers, white fruit, very clean with a hint of young girl perfume at the end. In the mouth it persuades by acidity and the presence of delicate fruit in a persistent finish.

Quinta dos Roques Reserva 2011 (DOC Dão)
The Roques Reserva 2005 is one of the wines that has given me more pleasure in recent times. Now came the 2011 and the charm remains at the highest level, the wine is juicy, attractive, with a big red mature and clean fruit. Backed by a very well integrated wood, beautiful body in a wine that shows some very good dryness in the back along with the freshness and a touch of rosemary and pine trees from the region.

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Quinta dos Roques Encruzado 2013 | Quinta dos Roques Malvasia-Fina 2013 | Quinta dos Bical 2013 | Maias 2013 – Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

White Wine Commemorative Edition of 10 years IWA (Vinho)
A White wine in which different varieties were used, one by each producer. In this way the blend named LARBE made from Loureiro, Alvarinho, Rabigato, Bical and Encruzado, originated a total of 1200 bottles. Delicate in the palate with freshness and good complexity, tense and a little austere which indicates a desire from the wine to grow in the bottle. Good minerality in mouth with presence of freshness and fruit cocktail.

Contacts
IWA
Av. da Boavista, 1607 – 5º Dto.
4100-132 Porto, PORTUGAL
Tel: (+351) 226 095 877
Website: www.iwa.pt

Independent Winegrowers's Association, uma década ao sabor da excelência

Texto João Pedro de Carvalho

O grupo de amigos, composto por Luís Lourenço (Quinta dos Roques – Dão), Luis Pato (Luis Pato Wines – Bairrada), Pedro Araújo (Quinta do Ameal – Vinhos Verdes), João Pedro Araújo (Casa de Cello – Vinhos Verdes/Dão) and Domingos Alves de Sousa (Alves de Sousa – Douro) decidiu criar um grupo (IWA) com o objectivo de fazer uma promoção conjunta em mercados externos. Todos eles são bons exemplos de produtores de excelência, com carácter vincado e cujos vinhos são fiéis às regiões que representam.

A IWA comemorou no passado dia 10 de Maio o seu 10º Aniversário. A reunião anual teve lugar em Lisboa, tendo sido apresentadas as últimas novidades a lançar para o mercado. Foi um grande privilégio poder provar numa só tarde o que de melhor Portugal (ou parte dele) tem para oferecer.

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White Wine Commemorative Edition of 10 years IWA – Foto de João Pedro de Carvalho | Todos os Direitos Reservados

Uma viagem em formato de prova que começou na região dos Vinhos Verdes, desde a mineralidade vincada dos SanJoanne da Casa de Cello aos perfumes e encantos dos Loureiro da Quinta do Ameal. Descendo um pouco entramos nas terras do Douro com os Alves de Sousa, vinhos terrosos e vincados pelo terroir, como o Quinta da Gaivosa ou o Abandonado, perdidos no tempo como o fabuloso Porto Tawny 20 Anos.

É da região do Dão que nos chegam os Quinta dos Roques que nos acariciam o palato com a seda vermelha do Roques Garrafeira ou com a suculenta frescura da fruta vermelha do Roques Reserva. Ainda no Dão e sem ficar esquecido, o Superior da Quinta da Vegia mostra toda a beleza da região no copo e ao seu lado o Vegia Reserva, mais austero e pronto para as curvas do tempo. A jornada termina na Bairrada, onde Luís Pato nos brinda com uma Baga de referência, proveniente da Vinha Barrosa ou com a delicadeza e os encantos que o branco da Vinha Formal promete revelar com o tempo.

No fim, ao olhar para o trajecto percorrido e para o que foi provado, ficamos com a convicção de que provámos vinhos de grande qualidade que merecem ser conhecidos, capazes de brilhar muito alto em qualquer parte do mundo.

Quinta de Sanjoanne Alvarinho 2013 (Regional Minho)

É uma novidade do produtor, um Alvarinho tenso e mineral, fruta limpa sem fruta tropical em excesso, tenso e com muito boa frescura. Na boca muito sabor na passagem pelo palato, mineral em fundo com sumo de fruta pelo meio, secura limonada em final de boa persistência. Cheio de detalhe e bonito rendilhado, um Alvarinho cuidado e refinado que fará as delícias a acompanhar umas amêijoas ou mexilhões ao natural.

Quinta da Vegia Superior 2007 (DOC Dão)

Um tinto de respeito que andou “esquecido” mas bem guardado pelo produtor. Chegada a hora de o lançar no mercado o vinho é pura elegância e charme, complexidade numa fruta fresca e viva, leve toque de geleia com todo o ambiente característico dos grandes vinhos do Dão.

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Quinta Sanjoanne Alvarinho 2013 | Luis Pato Vinha Formal Branco 2013 – Foto de João Pedro de Carvalho | Todos os Direitos Reservados

Abandonado 2009 (DOC Douro)

De uma vinha abandonada nasceu o Abandonado, um topo de gama da região que conquista pelo seu perfume de violetas, menta e fruta suculenta com toque doce , tabaco, muita frescura e uma estrutura de luxo. Amplo e muito saboroso, cativa pela elegância e por uma passagem no palato rica e cheia de sabores de enorme presença. Final longo e apimentado.

Quinta da Gaivosa Porto 20 Anos Tawny (Vinho do Porto)

O lote tem uma média de idade de vinte anos mas sente-se no imediato que ali moram vinhos muito velhos e de grande qualidade. Complexidade e elegância que nos dão vontade de repetir sempre mais um pouco. O resto são os aromas e sabores clássicos associados a este tipo de vinhos de grande qualidade. Macio na boca, revela um final longo e especiado.

Luís Pato Vinha Formal branco 2013 (Regional Beiras)

Ano após ano afirma-se como uma referência da região e do produtor. Um branco que gosta de envelhecer e que a prova no imediato está plena de energia. Amplo de fruta rechonchuda, flores amarelas, pólen, tudo junto e num plano complexo e delicado. A boca complementa o nariz, sempre naquele travo mais seco e com um final com a fruta amarela bem madura acompanhada de flores.

Luís Pato Vinha Barrosa 2011 (Regional Beiras)

A casta Baga ao mais alto nível. Mais sério e com mais austeridade que o Vinha Pan, o Barrosa consegue no imediato conquistar pela sua complexidade e riqueza aromática. Todo ele é um luxo, pela pureza de aromas e pela forma como o balsâmico e a rama de tomate se junta à fruta escura e suculenta (cereja, mirtilos pretos). Revela ainda um toque de pimenta num conjunto ainda muito novo, mas que dá no imediato uma prova de extraordinária a acompanhar um estufado de javali.

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Luis Pato Vinha Pan 2010 | Luis Pato Vinha Barrosa 2011 | Luis Pato 2009 – Foto de João Pedro de Carvalho | Todos os Direitos Reservados

Quinta do Ameal Clássico 2013 (Vinho Verde)

Um vinho de compêndio daquilo que é um grande Loureiro. Fresco, charmoso e conquistador, o que lhe advém da qualidade e definição dos seus aromas e sabores. Tudo em HD, conquista pela frescura e mineralidade que marca o palato, associados à fruta envolta em calda que faz as delícias na sua prova de boca.

Quinta do Ameal Escolha 2012 (Vinho Verde)

O topo de gama da casa, o mais sério e que menos tem a dizer enquanto novo. Sente-se austeridade no trato, folha de louro ainda verde, fruta limpa e madura, grande estrutura suportada pela madeira por onde passou. Fundo mineral num vinho com muito tempo de vida pela frente.

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Quinta do Ameal Escolha 2004 | Quinta do Ameal Loureiro 2004 – Foto de João Pedro de Carvalho | Todos os Direitos Reservados

Quinta dos Roques Bical 2013 (DOC Dão)

Branco de apenas 1200 garrafas, uma aposta muito especial do produtor, num vinho delicado e muito fresco, aromas de flores, fruta branca, limpeza de aroma com tudo a parecer um perfume de menina. Na boca convence pela acidez e pela presença da fruta delicada em final persistente.

Quinta dos Roques Reserva 2011 (DOC Dão)

Tenho o Roques Reserva 2005 como dos vinhos que mais prazer me tem dado nos últimos tempos. Agora saiu o 2011 e o encanto continua ao mais alto nível, o vinho é suculento, apetecível, com uma fruta vermelha que apetece trincar de tão madura e limpa que está. Amparado por uma madeira muito bem integrada, apresenta um belo corpo num vinho que mostra aquela secura de fundo em conjunto com a frescura, toque de alecrim e pinheiros da região.

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Quinta dos Roques Encruzado 2013 | Quinta dos Roques Malvasia-Fina 2013 | Quinta dos Bical 2013 | Maias 2013 – Foto de João Pedro de Carvalho | Todos os Direitos Reservados

Vinho Branco Edição Comemorativa dos 10 anos IWA (Vinho)

Branco comemorativo no qual foram utilizadas castas brancas, uma por cada produtor. Dessa forma o lote de nome LARBE (Loureiro, Alvarinho, Rabigato, Bical e Encruzado) que deu origem a 1200 garrafas. Vinho delicado, com frescura e boa complexidade, onde se sente uma vontade de crescer em garrafa. Boa mineralidade na boca com presença de frescura e cocktail de fruta.

Contactos
IWA
Av. da Boavista, 1607 – 5º Dto.
4100-132 Porto, PORTUGAL
Tel: (+351) 226 095 877
Website: www.iwa.pt