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Roques & Maias – The New Classics of Dão

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

If there are outstanding producers, both at the level of the Region (Dão) or the level of wines they produces, Quinta dos Roques (Mangualde) together with Quinta das Maias (São Paio de Gouveia) are two of these cases. They were considered as two of the best producers of Portugal and one of the pillars of the Dão Region.

The Quinta dos Roques is situated at 450 meters of altitude with a predominance of sandy soils with presence of granite. A total of 40 ha divided into 12 plots, in 1978 the vineyard was converted back to what we know today. The Quinta das Maias is situated in the foothills of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park, at 600 meters of altitude, and the wine has been made since 1992 at Quinta dos Roques.

The dominant feature since they appeared in 1990 is the fantastic balance that their wines can show between elegance and power, the perfect combination of classic and modern, combined with a tremendous gastronomic vocation. In them we find a central thread that they knew how to maintain through time and throughout their range, as well as an enviable consistency harvest after harvest, always oblivious to trends or the temptations of quick satisfaction mercantilism, showing a healthy austerity that allows them to be fully enjoyed while young.

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Quinta das Maias (Jaen 1999) – Quinta dos Roques (Touriga Nacional 1999 | Alfrocheiro Preto 1999 | Reserva 1999) Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

The man behind all of this is Luís Lourenço, member of the wine producers group – Independent Winegrowers Association and one of the pioneers and the responsible for the resurgence of the “new” Dão, the one we now partly know and appreciate. Keeping his loyalty to the region, he partially broke with the traditional wines and soon decided to vinify solo the grape varieties he produced. This resulted in a better understanding of the varieties and their locations, allowing him to enhance the profile of the wines produced, both in Roques and in Maias and understand what the best contribution of each should be to the final blend. The culmination of their studies appears for the first time in the year of 1996 with the release of their first single variety called Collection. This initiative has been repeated until the present day whenever the years have the quality to do so. During the first years Prof. Virgílio Loureiro was in charge of the oenology giving place in 2002 to Rui Reguinga.

The tasting began with the white Quinta dos Roques Encruzado, a wine that needs to rest two to three years after being placed on the market to gain another dimension on the level of complexity of flavors and aromas. In this case it is a 2004 that in ten years shows in fullness its capabilities. In the reds a small retrospective from the year 1999, with all the wines presenting 12.5% Vol: Quinta das Maias Jaen, Quinta dos Roques Alfrocheiro Preto, Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional and Quinta dos Roques Reserva.

Quinta dos Roques Encruzado 2004 (DOC Dão): Spectacular surroundings of flavors, complexity wrapped in a fresh wave, a touch of molasses. Fruit (Citrus) ripe, succulent, resin, sweet lemon, deep and captivating. Mouth with good freshness to involve the fruit, unctuous, good presence with great harmony, long and persistent finish.

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Encruzado Quinta dos Roques 2004 – Photo by João Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Quinta das Maias Jaen 1999 (DOC Dão): is a real good treat, full of clean fruit (raspberry, cherry, blueberry), round and pudgy, wrapped in freshness. Fragrant, always with a slight rustic touch, wood, flowers, pine. Delicate and refined complexity with a palate of velvet so characteristic of Dão, fresh and still with some grapple to show dryness in a protracted and spicy finish.

Quinta dos Roques Alfrocheiro Preto 1999 (DOC Dão): darker and more compact than the Jaen, fresh fruit, dense and greedier with emphasis on strawberry, berry, very impressive with raw tomatoes and spices to complement. Enters more tasty and tamed in the mouth, more acidity, this surrounded by a herbal note, a lot of good fruit through a set of great presence and immersion, long finish.

Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional 1999 (DOC Dão): In the nose a very good violet perfume, good developments in the glass with shining and very mature fruit (berries, blueberries, bergamot), vanilla, cinnamon, pine, chocolate, tobacco a deep and talkative set. Mouth with huge life and presence, great class with harmony and taste, marked by the opulent fruit which is chewed, dry leaf tobacco, long and persistent finish from a glorious Touriga Nacional.

Quinta dos Roques Reserva 1999 (DOC Dão): Shows the art and mastery of the blend, showing the perfect understanding of the varieties in a set full of class, tertiary aromas of great quality, fine complexity of a very composed, cool and inviting set. Mouth with freshness, alive and tasty fruit to mark a very tasteful palate, good concentration in balance with acidity, body of medium structure. Without tiring is a wine that shines on the table with the most varied gastronomy. A pleasure.

Contacts
Quinta dos Roques
Rua da Paz – Abrunhosa do Mato
3530-050 Cunha Baixa – Portugal
Phone: 00 351 232 614 511
Email: info@quintaroques.pt
Site: www.quintaroques.pt/

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About João Pedro Carvalho
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