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Posts By : João Pedro Carvalho

Blandy, a Dynasty Connected to Madeira wine
December 19, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Blandy’s story starts with the arrival of John Blandy to Madeira. Two centuries of a traders’ dynasty whose important connection to the Madeira wine began in 1811 with wine exportation when the company got established. He bought the estate where today lies the old winery in Funchal – Blandy Wine Lodges. After the exportations’ decline due to the devastating plagues, first the Oidium Tuckeri in 1851 and then the Phylloxera in 1872, from the association of several wine exportation companies, in 1913, the Madeira Wine Association is born with the purpose of relieving the business’ associated costs. It was around then that a lot of those companies weren’t able to resist the less favorable times and ended up closing and selling their stocks to Blandy’s. In 1925 Blandy’s joined M.W.A. which in 1986 changes the name to Madeira Wine Company SA.

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Blandy Wine Lodges © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

A remarkable story of a family that has played a significant role in the development of Madeira wine whereas at the same time expanding its activity to various other sectors such as banking, insurance, ship repairing… Two hundred years later Blandy’s remains a family business where Michael and Chris are the 6th and 7th generations to work in the business.

If in a previous article I stated that Henriques & Henriques were the first great Madeira wines that I had the chance to taste, Blandy’s were certainly those which through the years settled my liking and enthusiasm for Madeira wine as oenophile. Visiting Blandy’s was one of those special moments. Really, just being sat there in that amazing tasting room is worth a Madeira trip. The tasting was in charge of one of the greatest worldwide oenologists, Francisco Albuquerque. It was a privilege to be able to have there a great lesson about Madeira wine with an included tasting.

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Francisco Albuquerque © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

It’s still interesting that Madeira wine is a wine that nourishes over time, needs time to grow, not months or days but years, and the more the merrier, meaning more complexity and magicalness. Obviously, the focus goes to some of the tasted Vintage/Frasqueira:

Blandy’s Malmsey 1988
One of the great wines I had the chance to taste was the Malmsey 1988. This wine spent about 25 years in casks before the releasing of 1600 bottles to the market, in 2013. Stands out for the set’s freshness and exquisiteness as well as the precision and incredible detail which present well-defined aromas. Huge complexity and balance, candied orange from the get-go, fig, dates, tobacco, lots of spice, flowers with dry fruit in the background, the wine unfolds in layers. Conquers the palate with class, curry hints followed by raisins, fig raisins we can almost bite harmonizing perfectly with the nose. Great balance between acidity/fruit/sweetness.

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Blandy’s Frasqueira Wines Tasting Room © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Blandy’s Terrantez 1976
Again and as usual, what stands out here is the fantastic elegance of the whole set, this piece of work as precise as watchmaking is the brand’s calling card. In this case it’s a Terrantez 1976 showing itself quite more elegant than the Terrantez 1977 when were tasted side by side. This wine’s complexity is astounding, all very delicate yet deep and complex, with curry hints in a chocolate and orange scrapes set, dates, slightly balsamic, toasted caramel, nuts, all wrapped up in a great acidity which joins an aroma of polished old furniture. In the mouth it’s a polite monster, slightly sweet on the way in, and then breathtaking with a freshness which invades the whole palate. Renews the nose’s sensations, has that bittersweet touch which tills the tongue until the very end, harmonizing perfectly with the fruit and acidity.

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Blandy’s Verdelho 1973 Sample Bottle © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Blandy’s Verdelho 1973
The following wine is a perfect exemple that the Madeira wine needs and demands time. A Verdelho 1973 which is only now being released to the market. Another great wine of this house, initially restrained but a lot of complexity, unfolding in thin layers, cigar, passion fruit, freshness and liveliness in a set with plenty of harmony. The liveliness of the aromas stands out. The set impresses with the dryness in the palate along with a mix of a very slight unctuosity/sweetness which gives it a whole new dimension and puts this Verdelho in this house’s hall of fame.

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Blandy’s Bual 1920 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Blandy’s Bual 1920
It’s a stunning wine at all levels, it’s complicated for me to describe such enclosed emotion in a bottle every time I have in front of me, be it in the glass or the bottle. We’re talking about the mother of championships, this Bual 1920 has the rare ability to simply shut us up. We can be chatting but when it’s this 1920’s turn, people stay quiet, stare, smell the glass… stop, re-spin and smell the glass again, and with a smile start to ramble. The bouquet is some kind of amazing, concentrated, fresh, sinful, and again of a huge elegance. Starts with hint of lacquer, opens and then gives joy. Toffee, nuts, box of cigars, aromas wrapped in a fresh and slightly unctuous cape filled with dates, figs and candied fruit. All of this transpires to the palate which comes in at full steam, unctuous, lickerish to then show itself with great elegance, freshness and a very long and persistent finish. Unforgettable.

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Blandy’s Verdelho 1887 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Blandy’s Verdelho 1887
In 2011 it was identified a Verdelho which was laying in demijohn of 50 liters, a Verdelho 1887 that would end up being bottled in 2013. Stands out by its tone, with those beautiful emerald green edges which indicate a respectful age. The aroma is a huge party, starts with a hint of lacquer and then calming down and awakening to its fullness. A touch of old wood along with candied fruit, English cake, fig and apple-pie in a never-ending number of aromas the wrap it in a whirlwind of emotions. Stunning mouth, large, deep, tense and mysterious. Very good fruit presence regarding the nose, still clean and fresh. This is an 1887 wine that we’re talking about. Complements itself with caramel, orange peel scrapes, green coffee beans in a mix that combines the initial slight sweet and fruity touch with the dry and unctuous ending.

Contacts
Blandy’s Wine Lodge
Avenida Arriaga 28,
9000-064 Funchal,
Madeira – Portugal
Tel.: (+351) 291740 110
Fax: (+351) 291 740111
Site: www.blandys.com

Henriques & Henriques
December 12, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

For many years the Henriques’ family was the largest owner of Madeira wine, having the first vines been planted by order of Infante D. Henrique in the year 1425. Founded in 1850, by the hands of João Gonçalves Henriques, it went from a family tradition to an enterprise. After his death in 1912, a partnership was made between his two sons, Francisco Eduardo and João Joaquim Henriques, giving birth to the name Henriques & Henriques.

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Henriques & Henriques Wine Lodge & Shop © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

In 1968, with the death of the last of the Henriques, João Joaquim Henriques, aka “João de Belém”, and the fact of not having any successors, the company was inherited by his three friends and collaborators: Alberto Nascimento Jardim, Peter Cossart (which has performed 53 harvests in the company) and Carlos Nunes Pereira.

In June 1992, a huge investment was made in the construction of new facilities in Câmara dos Lobos as well as new vinification center in Quinta Grande where in 1995 a new 10 hectares vineyard was planted. This makes H&H one of the few Madeira’s wine producers to own its own vines.

Peter Cossart’s son, John Cossart, was the one who took hold of the company’s management but would end passing away in 2008. Recently the French multinational La Martiniquaise (Justino’s Madeira owner) became the main shareholder of H&H. The former now holds 70% of Madeira wine total production and Dr. Humberto Jardim is still a C.E.O. in H&H.

Some of the oldest Henriques & Henriques’ wines were in the first group of great Madeiras that I had the chance to taste and which aroused in me the interest for Madeira wine. Oddly they were all Boal, for example the Old Wine Boal 1887, the Solera Boal 1898 or the Reserva Velhíssima W.S. Boal which is a part of a “Fantastic Four” whose diminished quantities don’t permit it to be tasted anymore.

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Canteiro’s Barrels of Henriques & Henriques © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

After the visit, I had the chance to taste several wines, a quick highlight for the simple Monte Seco Extra Dry 3 Anos, made of Tinta Negra, full of Fino de Jerez’s reminding touches, without the characteristic flower’s touch, suggesting us that it’s an ideal pal for appetizers, with a simple approach, direct and quite dry. Other wines have already been properly approached by Olga Cardoso in a previous article.

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H&H Verdelho 20 Anos © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

H&H Verdelho 20 Anos
The recently marketed Madeira 20 anos have the particularity of an ever-changing lot as well as minimal quantities availability’s. For that, some editions are indeed exclusive and one of a kind. In this case a Verdelho, a variety that’s capable of maintaining its aromas and fruity flavors for a long time, a feature that quite stands out on this well-shaped wine. Tropical fruit with fresh passion fruit, pineapple in syrup, spices, old wood, lacquer, honeyed and complex, emanating a harmony between freshness and concentration. Matching mouth, present acidity with an initial fruit taste that opens into an unctuous and concentrated set, some dry fruits as a complement, long and persistent ending.

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H&H Century Malmsey Solera 1900 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

H&H Century Malmsey Solera 1900
One of this producer’s emblematic wines which has lost in time the Solera’s age that originated it, probably from the XIX century . The rest are only details which only enrich and sharpen the will to have it on our glass and behold such precious liquid. A wine that transpires in complexity, old cask’s wood, dried fruits, fig raisins with nuts, honey and a nose warmth conferred by an unctuous yet fresh sensation at the same time. Cigar box, unfolding in thin layers of aromas and flavors, velvet mouth marked by freshness, concentration and a tremendous elegance. Some wines are unforgettable and this is certainly one of them.

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H&H Verdelho Reserva Ribeiro Real N.V. © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

H&H Verdelho Reserva Ribeiro Real N.V.
This wine and the moment that involved its tasting are the very essence of Madeira wine, something unique, enthralling, and I would say impossible even, of happening anywhere else in the world. To understand why, keep in mind that the person in charge of leading the taste, never in her 19 years of work in H&H had tasted said wine, such is its rarity. Lost in time is the record of its true age, though it all points to the second half of XIX century.  From vineyards located in the area known as Ribeiro Real, the more than fifty years it spent in “Canteiro” made it concentrated, glyceric, also gaving it an exquisite and profound bouquet. To the naked eye it’s perceptible a beautiful green crown. The rest is a true monument to the Verdelho variety, bottled in 1957, with the aroma of the old wood where it aged. Lacquer, splashes of candied orange/grapefruit, iodine, plenty of freshness and elegance in a deep and mysterious set. Perfectly synced mouth, mid-dry, tasteful concentration compensated with a dragged minerality along a palate revitalizing acidity. A repeating grapefruit touch right at the ending. Remarkable, unforgettable.

Contacts
Sítio de Belém 9300-138
Câmara de Lobos
Madeira – Portugal
Tel.: (+351) 291 941 551/2
Fax.: (+351) 291 941 590
E-mail: HeH@henriquesehenriques.pt
Site: www.henriquesehenriques.pt

Henriques & Henriques
December 12, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

For many years the Henriques’ family was the largest owner of Madeira wine, having the first vines been planted by order of Infante D. Henrique in the year 1425. Founded in 1850, by the hands of João Gonçalves Henriques, it went from a family tradition to an enterprise. After his death in 1912, a partnership was made between his two sons, Francisco Eduardo and João Joaquim Henriques, giving birth to the name Henriques & Henriques.

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Henriques & Henriques Wine Lodge & Shop © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

In 1968, with the death of the last of the Henriques, João Joaquim Henriques, aka “João de Belém”, and the fact of not having any successors, the company was inherited by his three friends and collaborators: Alberto Nascimento Jardim, Peter Cossart (which has performed 53 harvests in the company) and Carlos Nunes Pereira.

In June 1992, a huge investment was made in the construction of new facilities in Câmara dos Lobos as well as new vinification center in Quinta Grande where in 1995 a new 10 hectares vineyard was planted. This makes H&H one of the few Madeira’s wine producers to own its own vines.

Peter Cossart’s son, John Cossart, was the one who took hold of the company’s management but would end passing away in 2008. Recently the French multinational La Martiniquaise (Justino’s Madeira owner) became the main shareholder of H&H. The former now holds 70% of Madeira wine total production and Dr. Humberto Jardim is still a C.E.O. in H&H.

Some of the oldest Henriques & Henriques’ wines were in the first group of great Madeiras that I had the chance to taste and which aroused in me the interest for Madeira wine. Oddly they were all Boal, for example the Old Wine Boal 1887, the Solera Boal 1898 or the Reserva Velhíssima W.S. Boal which is a part of a “Fantastic Four” whose diminished quantities don’t permit it to be tasted anymore.

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Canteiro’s Barrels of Henriques & Henriques © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

After the visit, I had the chance to taste several wines, a quick highlight for the simple Monte Seco Extra Dry 3 Anos, made of Tinta Negra, full of Fino de Jerez’s reminding touches, without the characteristic flower’s touch, suggesting us that it’s an ideal pal for appetizers, with a simple approach, direct and quite dry. Other wines have already been properly approached by Olga Cardoso in a previous article.

Blend_All_About_Wine_HH_3

H&H Verdelho 20 Anos © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

H&H Verdelho 20 Anos
The recently marketed Madeira 20 anos have the particularity of an ever-changing lot as well as minimal quantities availability’s. For that, some editions are indeed exclusive and one of a kind. In this case a Verdelho, a variety that’s capable of maintaining its aromas and fruity flavors for a long time, a feature that quite stands out on this well-shaped wine. Tropical fruit with fresh passion fruit, pineapple in syrup, spices, old wood, lacquer, honeyed and complex, emanating a harmony between freshness and concentration. Matching mouth, present acidity with an initial fruit taste that opens into an unctuous and concentrated set, some dry fruits as a complement, long and persistent ending.

Blend_All_About_Wine_HH_4

H&H Century Malmsey Solera 1900 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

H&H Century Malmsey Solera 1900
One of this producer’s emblematic wines which has lost in time the Solera’s age that originated it, probably from the XIX century . The rest are only details which only enrich and sharpen the will to have it on our glass and behold such precious liquid. A wine that transpires in complexity, old cask’s wood, dried fruits, fig raisins with nuts, honey and a nose warmth conferred by an unctuous yet fresh sensation at the same time. Cigar box, unfolding in thin layers of aromas and flavors, velvet mouth marked by freshness, concentration and a tremendous elegance. Some wines are unforgettable and this is certainly one of them.

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H&H Verdelho Reserva Ribeiro Real N.V. © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

H&H Verdelho Reserva Ribeiro Real N.V.
This wine and the moment that involved its tasting are the very essence of Madeira wine, something unique, enthralling, and I would say impossible even, of happening anywhere else in the world. To understand why, keep in mind that the person in charge of leading the taste, never in her 19 years of work in H&H had tasted said wine, such is its rarity. Lost in time is the record of its true age, though it all points to the second half of XIX century.  From vineyards located in the area known as Ribeiro Real, the more than fifty years it spent in “Canteiro” made it concentrated, glyceric, also gaving it an exquisite and profound bouquet. To the naked eye it’s perceptible a beautiful green crown. The rest is a true monument to the Verdelho variety, bottled in 1957, with the aroma of the old wood where it aged. Lacquer, splashes of candied orange/grapefruit, iodine, plenty of freshness and elegance in a deep and mysterious set. Perfectly synced mouth, mid-dry, tasteful concentration compensated with a dragged minerality along a palate revitalizing acidity. A repeating grapefruit touch right at the ending. Remarkable, unforgettable.

Contacts
Sítio de Belém 9300-138
Câmara de Lobos
Madeira – Portugal
Tel.: (+351) 291 941 551/2
Fax.: (+351) 291 941 590
E-mail: HeH@henriquesehenriques.pt
Site: www.henriquesehenriques.pt

Justino’s Madeira Wine
December 8, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

The wine tradition in Madeira is secular. It all began in the XV century when Infante D. Henrique ordered the plantation of the Malvazia/Malmsey vineyards imported from Greece. Over 500 years later Madeira wine became one of greatest Wine World icons, as much by its longevity as by its quality, being present on important events such as the United States Independence Declaration on July 4, 1776 e.g..

On the recent trip to Madeira one of the the visited companies was the “Justino’s, Madeira, S.A.” created in 1953 whose founder was Justino Henrique Freitas in 1870 when it was still a family business, known as Vinhos Justino Henriques (V.J.H.). In 1981 Sigfredo da Costa Campos acquired the company and amplified its value with the purchase of Companhia Vinícola da Madeira’s stock. In 1993 associates to the french group “La Martiniquaise” and in 1994 moves out of the downtown facilities to the Parque Industrial de Cancela where it lies till today. With his death in 2008, the French group took hold of the company’s full control.

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10 years lineup (Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvazia*) © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

The tasting, excellent by the way, was held on the current and modern facilities which gave me some longing feelings of that atmosphere so characteristic of the oldest wineries where the passage of time has taken its toll. Fortunately, with the help of the served wines excellency, the nostalgia disappeared almost immediately. Before pinpointing the ones I enjoyed the most, a small note about the “Justino’s 10 Anos” better known varieties (Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvazia). Wines which present us an above average intensity and maturity.

It’s from this point on that the “Madeira World” starts to be probably better understood, wines where the set’s harmony blends into a more mature bouquet making us aspire to higher stages.

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Justino’s Terrantez Old Reserve © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Justino’s Terrantez Old Reserve
The Terrantez is a rare and nearly extinct variety, filling its wines with a mystery and fascination cape. We’re before a wine with over forty years, some nuances such as the greeny traces on the rim indicating it might as well be older than that. A concentrated and deep wine, some iodine notes, curry, lacquer, old cask wood, dried fruit with english cake, exotic and mysterious.
Mouth with an involving entrance, lining the palate with an unctuous aftertaste of nuts and almonds, orange jelly, and a great elegance along with a conquering acidity’s in a great and long ending.

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Justino’s Sercial 1940 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Justino’s Sercial 1940
It’s the one needing the most time to develop and have presence in bottle, due to the high acidity which the variety conveys to the wines. My favorite of all with a lot of sea notes, lots of salty almond, lacquer, complexity and elegance, honey with an orange crystallized peel and at the same time exhaling a sharp freshness that tones the whole tasting. Great palate presence with a slight dried salty fruits greasiness. Iodine, citrus zest, plenty of emotion and flavour and once again an acidity focus, presenting an unforgettable wine! At all levels!

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Justino’s Verdelho 1954 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Justino’s Verdelho 1954
A wine wine exhaling both freshness and energy, complexity in droves in a dense and even quite pinched set at the start. A touch of ripe lemon jelly, green tea, flowers bouquet along with nuts. Plenty of life in a dry and strong set. Mouth contrasting the aromas, full of flavour with remarkable notes highlighting a dryness that revitalizes the palate and invites to one more gulp. Always with plenty of flavour and a soft unctuous touch in a wine with a spicy and huge ending.

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Justino’s Malmsey 1933 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Justino’s Malmsey 1933
A great wine, showing why there’s no comparison to the great Madeira’s! The longevity cohabits with a complexity/freshness hard to find anywhere else. This is one of the great, those that win us over immediately. It feels, by the variety’s nature, that is sweeter and “heavier” than the previously tasted wines. Great complexity with milk caramel, fig raisins, lacquer, dried fruits. An elegant set with the necessary acidity conferring it plenty of life, ground coffee, box of cigars, spices. All pronounced in a perfect harmony between mouth and nose. Unctuous and fresh palate passage with a tiny tip of sweetness in the ending making it sinful.

Contacts
Parque Industrial da Cancela
9125 – 042 Caniço
Madeira
Tel: (+351) 291 934 257
Fax: (+351) 291 934 049
E-mail: justinos@justinosmadeira.com
Site: www.justinosmadeira.com

Justino's Madeira Wine
December 8, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

The wine tradition in Madeira is secular. It all began in the XV century when Infante D. Henrique ordered the plantation of the Malvazia/Malmsey vineyards imported from Greece. Over 500 years later Madeira wine became one of greatest Wine World icons, as much by its longevity as by its quality, being present on important events such as the United States Independence Declaration on July 4, 1776 e.g..

On the recent trip to Madeira one of the the visited companies was the “Justino’s, Madeira, S.A.” created in 1953 whose founder was Justino Henrique Freitas in 1870 when it was still a family business, known as Vinhos Justino Henriques (V.J.H.). In 1981 Sigfredo da Costa Campos acquired the company and amplified its value with the purchase of Companhia Vinícola da Madeira’s stock. In 1993 associates to the french group “La Martiniquaise” and in 1994 moves out of the downtown facilities to the Parque Industrial de Cancela where it lies till today. With his death in 2008, the French group took hold of the company’s full control.

Blend_All_About_Wine_Justinos_1

10 years lineup (Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvazia*) © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

The tasting, excellent by the way, was held on the current and modern facilities which gave me some longing feelings of that atmosphere so characteristic of the oldest wineries where the passage of time has taken its toll. Fortunately, with the help of the served wines excellency, the nostalgia disappeared almost immediately. Before pinpointing the ones I enjoyed the most, a small note about the “Justino’s 10 Anos” better known varieties (Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvazia). Wines which present us an above average intensity and maturity.

It’s from this point on that the “Madeira World” starts to be probably better understood, wines where the set’s harmony blends into a more mature bouquet making us aspire to higher stages.

Blend_All_About_Wine_Justinos_2

Justino’s Terrantez Old Reserve © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Justino’s Terrantez Old Reserve
The Terrantez is a rare and nearly extinct variety, filling its wines with a mystery and fascination cape. We’re before a wine with over forty years, some nuances such as the greeny traces on the rim indicating it might as well be older than that. A concentrated and deep wine, some iodine notes, curry, lacquer, old cask wood, dried fruit with english cake, exotic and mysterious.
Mouth with an involving entrance, lining the palate with an unctuous aftertaste of nuts and almonds, orange jelly, and a great elegance along with a conquering acidity’s in a great and long ending.

Blend_All_About_Wine_Justinos_3

Justino’s Sercial 1940 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Justino’s Sercial 1940
It’s the one needing the most time to develop and have presence in bottle, due to the high acidity which the variety conveys to the wines. My favorite of all with a lot of sea notes, lots of salty almond, lacquer, complexity and elegance, honey with an orange crystallized peel and at the same time exhaling a sharp freshness that tones the whole tasting. Great palate presence with a slight dried salty fruits greasiness. Iodine, citrus zest, plenty of emotion and flavour and once again an acidity focus, presenting an unforgettable wine! At all levels!

Blend_All_About_Wine_Justinos_4

Justino’s Verdelho 1954 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Justino’s Verdelho 1954
A wine wine exhaling both freshness and energy, complexity in droves in a dense and even quite pinched set at the start. A touch of ripe lemon jelly, green tea, flowers bouquet along with nuts. Plenty of life in a dry and strong set. Mouth contrasting the aromas, full of flavour with remarkable notes highlighting a dryness that revitalizes the palate and invites to one more gulp. Always with plenty of flavour and a soft unctuous touch in a wine with a spicy and huge ending.

Blend_All_About_Wine_Justinos_5

Justino’s Malmsey 1933 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Justino’s Malmsey 1933
A great wine, showing why there’s no comparison to the great Madeira’s! The longevity cohabits with a complexity/freshness hard to find anywhere else. This is one of the great, those that win us over immediately. It feels, by the variety’s nature, that is sweeter and “heavier” than the previously tasted wines. Great complexity with milk caramel, fig raisins, lacquer, dried fruits. An elegant set with the necessary acidity conferring it plenty of life, ground coffee, box of cigars, spices. All pronounced in a perfect harmony between mouth and nose. Unctuous and fresh palate passage with a tiny tip of sweetness in the ending making it sinful.

Contacts
Parque Industrial da Cancela
9125 – 042 Caniço
Madeira
Tel: (+351) 291 934 257
Fax: (+351) 291 934 049
E-mail: justinos@justinosmadeira.com
Site: www.justinosmadeira.com

Casa da Passarella – A story written with wine
December 2, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Founded in 1908 the Região Demarcada do Dão is Portugal’s most ancient still wines’ region. Historically a great wines cradle, witnessed, two decades earlier, the birth of Casa da Passarela, an emblematic producer where legendary portuguese oenology names left their mark on, such as the longing Dr. Mário Pato and Eng. Alberto Vilhena, among many others. Nowadays Casa da Passarela has around 100 hectares of which 45 are vineyard, split in seven parcels with unique and differentiative characteristics whether by the varieties diversity or different exposures and soils. From those only 4,4 hectares are old vineyards to which join four centennial parcels of reduced productivity, outside the property.

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Casa da Passarella Old Vineyard – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

The first registry, with the brand Villa Oliveira, is dated to 1893. In the meantime there were periods of more and less longing, however this rebirth of Casa da Passarella is due to the recent 2008 harvest. Now, after 6 years have gone by, we can see a remarkable consistency in the wines of this “new” producer. It is the right time to take notice of the upcoming releases. Joining in to the great oenology names that wrote their name on this house we have the signature of the enologist Paulo Nunes, a great communicator, as much in the passionate way that he explains his wines, as the effectively way he guides the vines’ identity into the bottle.

Having a good raw material along with someone who can interpret it, the result can only be a gamut which is founded on a well delineated matrix in a pure symbiosis with an identifying trace of the true exemplars of the Dao region, specifically in the Serra da Estrela sub-region.
Therefore we’re before a combination of modernity and tradition, resulting in very appealing wines. In the Casa da Passarella gamut everything starts with the “A Descoberta”, more direct wines where the fruit gets highlighted by the the freshness with which shows itself. Joining in is the “Abanico” in the red Reserva type, the gamut’s most robust and tense wine, prevailing the Touriga Nacional in a set that shows some austerity and that clearly was made to last.

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“OEnólogo” | “OEnólogo” Vinhas Velhas red – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Next, the “OEnólogo” range where the 2013 white with a surfacing youth shows the Encruzado variety in a still tense and mineral profile. The “OEnólogo” Vinhas Velhas red has a too tempting set by the way the fruit/freshness/wood combine themselves in a greatly harmonious set. Pure pleasure at the table!
[Check out our article on this range’s previous year]

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Villa Oliveira Encruzado 2012 | Villa Oliveira Touriga Nacional 2010 – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

It’s from those old vines that come the range’s two top wines, the Villa Oliveira. The Villa Oliveira Encruzado 2012 has been accommodating itself on the bottle, more mature and serious than in the last tasting earlier this year. Slightly marked by rusk and vanilla from the wood where it staged on, underneath it has fresh and juicy fruit, ample and complex set. A lot of pleasure during the tasting and asking for white meat with creamy sauce. The Villa Oliveira Touriga Nacional 2010 follows the Reserva’s footsteps, tense, muscled with austerity and freshness, plenty of juicy fruit in the nose and mouth, a set yet to untie its strings, things only time will allow.

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Casa da Passarela “Enxertia” 2011 – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Surging forth is Casa da Passarela “Enxertia” 2011, a new brand which will show the best varietal of each harvest, being 2011 in charge of the Alfrocheiro. Attractive aroma with lots of black fruits (blackberry, raspberry, berry), plenty of harmony and life with pine needles, slight balsamic with a background of spices. Fresh and complex set, one of this variety’s finest exemplars.

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O Fugitivo Garrafeira white 2013 – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

To finish off were introduced two new wines, set to launch next year, inserted in the “O Fugitivo” range, wines that happen, intimate visions of the enologist in very limited quantities as is to be expected. In this case the O Fugitivo Garrafeira white 2013, where the Encruzado mixes with old vineyards resulting in only 2500 bottles coming to the market in about a year from now. Less marked by wood than Villa Oliveira, very tense, full of nerve, cohese and deep, fresh and mature fruit with acidity in the tasting, accentuated minerality in the mouth’s final. It’s a great white which has everything to shine in higher flights.

The O Fugitivo Vinhas Centenárias red 2011 is born from four parcels of vineyard, with over 100 years, red varieties with some white-brown mixed in. The result is an outstanding wine, daring even, clearly out of the current context. Scented set, freshness with balsamic, bergamot, entangling and complex, a soft note of mature rachis in the background. Plenty of energy, austere mouth, red juicy fruit and a rising harmony. Already asking strongly tempered dishes, a great wine as it fits the Dão’s image!

Contacts
Rua Santo Amaro, 3, Passarela
6290-093 Lagarinhos
Tel: (+351) 238 486 312
Fax: (+351) 238 486 218
E-mail: info@casadapassarella.pt
Site: www.casadapassarella.pt

Madeira, a “Paixão” (Passion)
November 27, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

In the midst of the constant news buzz’s, Madeira starts to stand out with their table wines, where essentially shines the Verdelho, loaded with freshness and minerality with a daring touch of saltiness.

In this case the focus goes to Paixão do Vinho managed by Filipe Santos whose wines Primeira Paixão have been highlighted in recent years by its quality and difference, with Verdelho as the most popular one. It was during my last passage by the island of Madeira that Filipe Santos showed his latest and already available wines in the market, the Primeira Paixão Rosé 2013 and the red Primeira Paixão Merlot 2012.

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Primeira Paixão Rosé 2013 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Primeira Paixão Rosé 2013

It’s based on Touriga Nacional, Merlot, Syrah, Tinta Roriz and Complex varieties, with grapes from the Seixal area. Oenology by João Pedro Machado in the S. Vincente’s cellar. Aroma of a good intensity, especially to well ripened berries, a slight vegetal touch and a flint reminding’s background. Mouth full of lively and juicy fruit, well composed structure, good freshness in a very attractive set.

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Primeira Paixão Merlot 2012 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Primeira Paixão Merlot 2012

Grapes from a hillside near the sea in the area of Caniçal, Merlot with a touch of Touriga Nacional, oenology by Francisco Albuquerque. Spent about six months in barrels, resulting in a set marked by a fresh vegetal, slightly balsamic, with ripe fruit (plum, raspberry) as second plan, freshness of set, tobacco, pepper. A fresh profile showing it has life ahead, in a long and persistent finish.

Contacts
Paixão do Vinho
Via Rápida Cota 200 posto Repsol Norte Jardim Botanico
9060-056 Santa Maria Maior – Funchal
Tel: (+351) 291 010 110
Site: www.paixaodovinho.com

Madeira, a "Paixão" (Passion)
November 27, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

In the midst of the constant news buzz’s, Madeira starts to stand out with their table wines, where essentially shines the Verdelho, loaded with freshness and minerality with a daring touch of saltiness.

In this case the focus goes to Paixão do Vinho managed by Filipe Santos whose wines Primeira Paixão have been highlighted in recent years by its quality and difference, with Verdelho as the most popular one. It was during my last passage by the island of Madeira that Filipe Santos showed his latest and already available wines in the market, the Primeira Paixão Rosé 2013 and the red Primeira Paixão Merlot 2012.

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Primeira Paixão Rosé 2013 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Primeira Paixão Rosé 2013

It’s based on Touriga Nacional, Merlot, Syrah, Tinta Roriz and Complex varieties, with grapes from the Seixal area. Oenology by João Pedro Machado in the S. Vincente’s cellar. Aroma of a good intensity, especially to well ripened berries, a slight vegetal touch and a flint reminding’s background. Mouth full of lively and juicy fruit, well composed structure, good freshness in a very attractive set.

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Primeira Paixão Merlot 2012 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

Primeira Paixão Merlot 2012

Grapes from a hillside near the sea in the area of Caniçal, Merlot with a touch of Touriga Nacional, oenology by Francisco Albuquerque. Spent about six months in barrels, resulting in a set marked by a fresh vegetal, slightly balsamic, with ripe fruit (plum, raspberry) as second plan, freshness of set, tobacco, pepper. A fresh profile showing it has life ahead, in a long and persistent finish.

Contacts
Paixão do Vinho
Via Rápida Cota 200 posto Repsol Norte Jardim Botanico
9060-056 Santa Maria Maior – Funchal
Tel: (+351) 291 010 110
Site: www.paixaodovinho.com

Dona Maria, between classical and modernity
November 24, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

At Quinta de Dona Maria in Estremoz lies a mix of classicism and modernity which was elegantly carried over to the wines produced there.

Sandra Gonçalves’ enology is precise and refined, resulting in detailed wines with soul which are also elegantly serious and fresh in a mix that reflects itself in a nice longevity.

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Quinta Dona Maria – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

From the most classical exemplars, supported by the solid character of the clay-limestone soils of the region, arises the Dona Maria range (red, white and rosé), reaching its prime with Dona Maria Reserva. The offer is complemented with some varietals of a more modern inspiration such as the Viognier 2013 and the Touriga Nacional/Petit Verdot 2011 which are about to be highlighted here.

Side by side we find that both the Dona Maria red and white are wines of a classical layout, in that so special Alentejo inside those gates. The wines are still young with a voracious appetite for a more composed table, as the €8 price-tag shows. A nice cost-satisfaction correlation.

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Dona Maria Viognier 2103 – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Dona Maria white 2013
Made on the basis of Arinto, Antao Vaz and Viosinho, good freshness’ set, with white-fleshed fruit, vegetal, tropical fruit and citrus. Balanced set, presence of fruit on the palate, elegant with persistent ending.

Dona Maria Viognier 2103
Full of flowers, with pear and ripe peach, a slight touch syrup wrapped in freshness resulting in a serious set, without being too expansive and showing itself with some weight on the palate, entangled in freshness, a refined tasting in line with the variety.

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Dona Maria red 2011 | Dona Maria Touriga Nacional/Petit Verdot 2011 – Photo by João de Pedro Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Dona Maria red 2011
6 months in oak barrels, a nice whole with good freshness and a lot of good juicy red fruits with smoked notes, a slight trace of spices, in a good complexity. Firm, good freshness in the mouth, based on a steady structure ensuring its longevity.

Dona Maria Touriga Nacional/Petit Verdot 2011
The two varieties that in previous harvests stood alone decided to blend themselves, forward comes the duet in 2011. Intense aroma combining the very best of each variety. Flowers and wild fruits with vegetal/balsamic traces, conferring a whole which combines a slightly austere background with that fruit tastiness, as much in the aroma as in the palate. Ample, tasty, balanced with freshness scoring the points in a persistent and long ending.

Contacts
Quinta do Carmo 7100-055 Estremoz
Tel: (+351) 268 339 150
Fax: (+351) 268 339 155
Email: donamaria@donamaria.pt
Site: donamaria.pt

Herdade das Servas Reserva Alicante Bouschet 2011
November 18, 2014 1 comment in Uncategorized by

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

The Serrano Mira family has been connected to the wine production for countless generations now. In their estates several clay amphoras were preserved, dated to 1667, which served as containers for the production of wine.

The brothers Mira (Carlos and Luis) started following very early the family activities in the wine sector, and at one point they decided to make their dream come true, with the creation of the Herdade das Servas (Estremoz) in 1999. Today with about 220 hectares of vineyards, aging between 20 and 60 years old, the estate offers a modern and attractive unit of eno-tourism highlighting the new recently opened restaurant.

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Herdade das Servas Reserva Alicante Bouschet 2011in Restaurante da Herdade das Servas – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

The latest released wine, with the winemaker Tiago Garcia’s signature, is the Herdade das Servas Alicante Bouschet 2011. This wine spent 14 months in new oak barrels and 14 months in bottle until release.

A rich and full-bodied wine, marked by the excellence of ripe fruit, opulent and full of energy, balsamic note, dark chocolate and spices, touch of oak, bold, compensated by a good freshness. Plenty of life ahead, in mouth is still very new, lots of juicy fruit, firm and very tasty, great structure asking for some time to refine the elegance that already shows. Long and persistent finish in this beautiful Alicante Bouschet’s exemplar.

Contacts
Serrano Mira S.A – Herdade das Servas
Apt. 286 – 7100-909 Estremoz
Tel: (+351) 268 322 949
E-mail: info@herdadedasservas.com
Site: www.herdadedasservas.com