Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Chef António Nobre was born in 1969 in Beja, where he also studied. His mother was an excellent cook and, with her, he discovered the aromas and flavours of Alentejo cuisine. However, it was not before he was in the navy that he learnt he enjoyed cooking, so he took a course in cuisine and worked in the mess for the navy officers in the Cascais line. When he returned to Beja, he began working in a restaurant called “Muralha”, where he stayed for four years. Then he applied to work at the inn, got accepted, and stayed for also four years. After that, he worked at hotel “Melius” for another four years. Ever since the director at “Cartuxa” hotel heard about him fifteen years ago, he has been in that group, which transformed the hotel in the mean time, and opened the two M’ar de Ar hotels: Aqueduto and Muralhas, with António as the head of catering.

Chef António Nobre

Although he often travels throughout the country and also abroad – because he believes it to be important to stay up-to-date with current affairs in other countries, and what the latest trends are – he feels most at home in Alentejo. He promotes regional cuisine, because he thinks we should keep the flame of tradition alive. His motto is “Innovate tradition, all the while respecting the scents and flavours of the Portuguese cuisine, because they are part of our culture.” He does enjoy presenting his traditional Alentejo cuisine with sophistication and in different clothing, sometimes looking better and thus more appetising.

That said, our expectations were high when we recently visited “Degust’ar” restaurant, in hotel Mar de Ar Aqueduto, for a peaceful dinner in the most comfortable environment.

The restaurant is very well decorated; its refined simplicity put us at ease. In the entrance, we were welcomed by a counter, where a “sushi man” prepares a plethora of pieces of that cuisine, which has definitely taken over the country. Then the room, of a decent size, with charming corners, very well-set tables, and a good choice of ornaments. The service is remarkable, very competent and friendly. Also friendly was chef António Nobre when he came to the table to ask whether we were in a rush or not. Of course we were not, and so he gave the kitchen the green light for a very comprehensive meal he was already in the process of preparing. We started with appetisers including olives marinated with oregano, orange, lemon, olive oil, farinheira butter and bread.

Bread – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Botifarra de Azurara – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

We carried on dipping and grabbing until the little delicacies arrived: an interesting “botifarra” from Azaruja (a sort of longer breakfast sausage) with homemade tomato jam; delicious figs with Alentejo pork ham, chicory and honey vinaigrette from Serra de Portel; a few crunchy Alentejo risolle filled with pork scratchings and a salad of green asparagus, cherries and Amareleja raisins.

Figs with Alentejo pork ham © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Crunchy Alentejo risolle © Blend All About Wine, Lda

We moved on to the soups – absolutely compulsory in Alentejo: chickpea soup with bóia (“ring float”), which consists in the fat from the pig’s belly – very tasty, and an excellent purslane soup with cottage cheese and poached quail egg.

Chickpea soup – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Purslane soup © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Our stomachs were already quite satisfied, but the main course was still to come. Although respecting the peace and quiet, it did not take long, to keep the rhythm of the meal going.

Conger eel soup © Blend All About Wine, Lda

As a fish course, we had Alentejo-style conger eel soup with mint from the riverbank; it was filled with aromas, very tasty.

Pennyroyal sorbet – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

While we waited for the meat course, the pennyroyal sorbet did a proper job of cleansing our palate.

Mertolenga beef neck © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Then came the Mertolenga beef neck stewed slowly with haricot pods and “sawyer”-style migas (“fried breadcrumbs”), which really brought the Alentejo plane flavours to the plate. Excellent!

Trilogy of “conventual” sweets © Blend All About Wine, Lda

We were able to make some room for a trilogy of “conventual” sweets (originally made in convents) with lemon sorbet, which put the cherry on the cake on this trip down Alentejo flavours. With regard to wines, the challenge was to bring wines from other regions with us to see how well they would do with Alentejo food.

The white Alvarinho 2014 from Quinta de Curvos – very refreshing, with excellent acidity and balanced fruit – accompanied the appetisers very well; the most interesting was Gravato da Beira Interior palhete wine 2005 – very elegant, intense, refined – paid excellent company to the soups and the fish. Neck and neck.

The Wines © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Lastly, an “old” Garrafeira Tinto 1988 from Palmela, by J. P. Vinhos. Although its strength was drained, it was a good match for the Mertolenga meat, and slowly but appetisingly, it evolved in the glass. It tasted so good.

Chef António Nobre returned to the table to find out how it had gone, and received a deserving genuine applause.

He must have caught a whiff of “M’ar de Ar”…

Contacts
M’AR De AR AQUEDUTO
Rua Cândido dos Reis, 72
7000-782 Évora
Tel: (+351) 266 740 700
Fax: (+351) 266 740 735
E-mail: geral@mardearhotels.com
Website: www.mardearhotels.com

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Herdade do Perdigão, consisting of 173 acres of land, of which 99 acres are vineyards with varieties such as Antão Vaz, Verdelho and Arinto of white wine, and Trincadeira, Aragonês, Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet of red.

Grape Varieties © Blend All About Wine, Lda

But the oldest vine, about 30 years old, mixes many varieties. All these grapes make 800,000 bottles a year, 85% of which hold red wine. But they already produce 10,000 bottles of sparkling wine.

Vines © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Vines © Blend All About Wine, Lda

This project is run by a family and has been growing. It required a few important investments in technology, especially in the stainless steel vats, a Cool Chain and modern presses, in an effort to improve the end product.

Stainless steel vats © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Stainless steel vats © Blend All About Wine, Lda

That goal has come true, with a few wines having been awarded in several contests, even internationally.

Comfy tasting room © Blend All About Wine, Lda

The vineyards stretch out around the facilities, where you find the cellar and a comfy tasting room that is also a shop for the many connoisseurs who visit producers more and more, taste the wines and buy their favourites. Proof that wine tourism works and is evolving.

In this room, we tasted nine wines that gave us a good idea of the profile of what is produced there. We began with Terras de Monforte white 2014. Somewhat exotic in the nose, revealing good acidity straight away. Unostentatious tropical notes, very refreshing. Beautiful acidity, very mineral, dry, with light saline notes, white fruit, very elegant. Then followed Herdade do Perdigão Reserva white 2011, made only from Antão Vaz. Fermented in casks, it proves a little austere in the nose, but very elegant, soft, with a light citrusy touch. Notes of well paired wood, some vanilla, very present acidity, beautiful volume and some complexity in the mouth.

Herdade do Perdigão Reserva white 2014 | 2011 | 2010 © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Then came Herdade do Perdigão Reserva white 2010, also made only of Antão Vaz. This wine’s colour immediately reveals some evolution, also evident in the nose with the elegant presence of wood. However, in the mouth it isn’t as fresh, but still elegant and safe, persistent and with a lasting finish, and proving that white wines also age well. After that, we tried Herdade do Perdigão Reserva red 2012, produced with grapes from old vines, its colour an almost opaque, glossy, vivid red. Intense in the nose, full of dark fruits, some notes of vanilla, and evident wood. Good volume in the mouth and fantastic acidity, intense, a great match for the wood. A lot of notes of dark fruits, chocolate, a persistent wine from a very good year, which will still improve while in the bottle. Stepping back a few years, we tasted Herdade do Perdigão Reserva red 2005, presenting a few brown streaks, and glossy. It proved a little evolved in the nose, with very elegant notes of vegetable, well paired wood, you could still taste some fruit, chocolate and a little smoke. Beautiful acidity, intense, the wood was quite evident, but tannins weren’t all that round. An austere wine, very interesting.

Herdade do Perdigão Reserva red 2004 proved slightly lighter in colour, also including some brown streaks to characterise evolution that comes with age. In the nose, evolution is noticeable, but so is elegance; austere yet still alive. In the mouth, it still offers some very mature fruit, intense, with fantastic acidity for balance, soft notes of smoke, dark chocolate, and a very lasting finish.

Herdade do Perdigão Reserva red 2012 | 2005 | 2004 | 1999 & Herdade do Perdigão red 20 Years © Blend All About Wine, Lda

We go further back in time to taste Herdade do Perdigão red Reserva 1999. An impressive colour, very dark, brownish, very elegant. Great intensity, aromatic, notes of roasting, smokey, exotic, it continues to open up in the glass. Very robust, even austere, it presents notes of smoke with incredible acidity for a wine this old. Revealing light aromas of the left over fruit, very soft vegetable notes, some smoke, needing opening up in the glass; a good surprise.

Then came a very special wine, Herdade do Perdigão red 20 Years, from the 2008 vintage; a celebration wine, a limited special edition. Prepared from grapes coming from old vines and Alicante Bouschet, it proves very dark, opaque. In the nose, it’s all about elegance, more elegance; intense, but silky, a little smoky with light vegetable notes. The elegant persistence continues in the mouth, with intense and superb acidity; soft spicy notes, some ripe fruit, a silky touch of green peppers, it’s still refreshing, with ripe tannins, very well integrated wood for a delicious and very long finish. A great wine!

We ended the tasting with Herdade do Perdigão Sparkling Wine 2012, prepared with grapes of the Arinto and Antão Vaz varieties. In a crystal-clear citrus yellow, persistent little bubbles and an intense bead. It’s soft in the nose, dry, toasty, with notes of hay. Very refreshing in the mouth, of intense acidity, dry, creamy, notes of baked goods, toast, some nuts, complex, suggesting food, and with a persistent finish. A beautiful Alentejo sparkling wine.

With the vineyards for a background, we roam into Alentejo.

Contacts
Apartado 29
7450 – 999 Monforte
Tel: (+351) 245 578 135
Fax: (+351) 245 578 136
Mobile: (+351) 932 312 250
Website: herdadeperdigao.pt

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

In one of the many intertwined streets in Évora, we find Rua do Inverno (“Winter street”).

Rua do Inverno – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

But the eatery we are after radiates human heat all year round; it’s called Taberna Típica Quarta-Feira (Wednesday Typical Tavern).

Taberna Típica Quarta-Feira – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

A small, rustic, charming space, a pleasant, tidy room, and a lovely counter with an arch made of ochre bricks, behind which is the kitchen.

Taberna Típica Quarta-Feira – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Tables are well set and Alentejo wine bottles are found all about. The air carries easily recognisable scents of Alentejo seasoning.

José Dias – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Taberna Típica Quarta-Feira is run by José Dias – his friends call him Zé Dias –, born in Sabugal, Beiras, in 1948. In 1964, he travelled to Évora to work in a printer’s, and eventually settled. Later, 25 years ago, he opened up a restaurant (after having managed a café and a snack-bar).

D. Luísa – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In the kitchen is D. Luísa. She came to live in Évora 24 years ago from Monte do Trigo, Portel. They met through one of her sisters and, given her talent for cuisine, Zé Dias wouldn’t let her escape the restaurant whose kitchen she has since been in charge of. In that kitchen, they practise traditional Alentejo cuisine. Oven-roast lamb and esparregado – a puree of green vegetables, flour and milk – are a reference. Zé Dias’ jovial and friendly character makes up the rest.

The Wines – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In the restaurant, we enjoyed many of the exhibited wines; some have been out of the market for a long time, but Zé Dias keeps them and manages them, so that his many returning customers can enjoy them. The latter come from all over the country, including some foreigners, thanks to the restaurant’s popularity. Zé Dias takes us in, walks us to our table, guides us through what we will be eating, places orders in the kitchen, opens wine bottles and, most of all, amuses us with his many stories full of very interesting characters. However, Zé Dias treats everyone equally: kindly and hospitably.

Alentejo Bread – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Gammon – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

At the table, the amazing Alentejo bread arrived to accompany the very thin presunto (gammon) and delicious paio de porco preto (smoked black-pork sausage prepared with garlic, sweet pepper and white wine).

Paio de Porco Preto – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Stuffed Mushroom – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Also, a huge stuffed mushroom, served very hot.

Esparregado & neck of black-pork © Blend All About Wine, Lda

The dry rice and that fantastic esparregado with a hint of vinegar paid excellent company to the oven-roasted nape of the neck of black-pork with browned diced potatoes; everything was served very hot. The table went quiet. The house white and red wines, Paulo Laureano‘s responsibility (read Sarah Ahmed’s article about Paulo Laureano here), kept flowing through the glasses.

Bolo de Bolacha © Blend All About Wine, Lda

For dessert, we had an encharcada (egg and almond pudding) and bolo de bolacha, made in-house – an irresistible treat. Lastly, we had some plump cherries from Fundão, freshly delivered.

Cherries © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Diet starts tomorrow!!

Zé Dias’ farewell is always: “See you soon!”

Contacts
Rua do Inverno, 16 – 18
7000 – 599 Évora
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 266 70 75 30