Posts By : José Silva

The Symington family’s new Vintages

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

The Symington family chose the renovated Casa de Chá de Boa Nova, in Leça da Palmeira – right on top of the cliffs and the sea –, to present its two most recent Port wines.

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Casa de Chá da Boa Nova – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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The Cliffs – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Opposite the famous building by architect Siza Vieira stands the stone engraved with a verse by the poet António Nobre, who enjoyed musing for inspiration there.

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The place looks incredible – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The place looks incredible, with light coming in from the sea, the restaurant now in charge of a team led by chef Rui Paula, who was able to not only provide an excellent flawless wine service, but also provide us with a delicious meal accompanied by wines from this Douro producer: the white Altanos full of freshness, elegant, of excellent acidity – modern whites. The Vesúvio reds are at a great level, full of structure, mighty yet elegant – very cuisine ready.

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Careful presentation – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The Symington cousins, Charles and Ruper, made a careful presentation of the wines we were about to taste. Besides the two new wines, we made a short but delightful trip through a few superb Port wines. Charles Symington also did a peculiar and very interesting talk on the use of new technologies for studying and controlling vineyards, using techniques that completely master the earth’s morphology and composition, its humidity, acidity and many other parameters. What’s the goal here? Well, to continuously improve the vineyards’ performance and obtain ever better grapes. The results are out.

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Grahams Colheita 1972 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

We begin with two extraordinary Tawnies: first, the Grahams Colheita 1972, of a dark amber, and gold and brown streaks, proved a touch dry in the nose, notes of orange-tree flower, walnuts, hazelnuts, tobacco, full of scents. In the mouth, it has complexity, dry fruits, caramel, incredible acidity, some dry notes, it’s slightly smokey, ever evolving in the glass to an endless finish… already a classic Port.

Next followed Dow’s Colheita 1974 – of an average clear amber, it’s very elegant with notes of orange, some citrus, very delicate, almond-like scents, with spices, an authentic perfume. Excellent elegance in the mouth, powerful acidity, persistent, orange peel, still very refreshing, nuts and almonds, some smoke, tobacco, a very lasting finish for an extraordinary wine.

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Dow´s Vintage 1975 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Next in turn were the Vintage; beginning with Dow’s Vintage 1975, they were served in an interesting fashion: poured from a sample Tappit Hen bottle of 2.1 litres, still used occasionally by the family. The wine is clearing up, revealing a pale hue of ruby. It’s extremely elegant in the nose, yet showing some fruit, jam and light notes of spices. Beautiful acidity, very engaging, some nuts, cherry, very elegant yet persistent, a lasting finish in a vintage that will continue developing for a long time. Next was Warre’s Vintage 1977, good-looking – a light average ruby. The austere nose, yet elegant, is smokey, still fresh, including notes of jam and fruits of the forest. In the mouth, it was deep, with amazing acidity, very complex, with notes of overripe fruit, still full of freshness, a lasting and flavourful finish. Finally, out came a delicious Graham’s Vintage 1977, a year of great Port for this producer. Unlike its cousins, the colour is amazing – a dark red, almost opaque. An amazing nose, deep, austere, but full of elegance, a lot of dark fruit, chocolate, very good. Very voluminous, very balanced but of mighty acidity, deliciously complex, some nuts, and an amazing, full, engaging finish; a great wine.

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Tasting – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Tasting – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

After a short break for a breath and two light talks by the two cousins about the new vintage wines, came the Dow’s Vintage 2013 by Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira. Opaque, almost black, and shiny. In the nose, it presented notes of dark chocolate, very ripe dark fruits, blackberries, plums, raisins, but was also very floral. Powerful in the mouth, sweet notes, chocolate, very ripe figs, tobacco, vibrant acidity, very involving – a beautiful interpretation of an excellent modern vintage.

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Quinta do Vesúvio Vintage 2013 and Dow’s Vintage 2013 Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Finally, the tradition of Quinta do Vesúvio Vintage 2013. Very dark, almost black, and silky. A fully fruity nose, a lot of elegance, floral, smokey, tobacco, cocoa and spices. Incredible in the mouth, excellent acidity, powerful, very ripe dark fruits, slightly spiced, almost spicy. It takes over your mouth and never ends… the interpretation, near perfection, of a place, a piece of land, vineyards, Quinta do Vesúvio! And also of the tradition of grapes crushed by foot inside granite presses – the return to Douro’s primal memories. A great Port wine!

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Smoked Mackerel – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Once at the table in the restaurant, after a glass of champagne al fresco, we started with some appetisers: smoked mackerel with peppers, fake tomato with cottage cheese, and an olive with olive-oil merengue served in a charming tin.

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Smoked Eel – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Next was the fish: smoked eel with beetroot and marrow.

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Rack of Lamb – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

For meat, we had rack of lamb with tupinambur and fennel.

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Selection of National Cheeses – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Tiramisu – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

A selection of national cheeses introduced dessert, a disconcerting “take it away” (tiramisu).

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The Sea – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In the meantime, we got back to the Port… the sea still splashing against the rocks.

Contacts
Symington Family Estates
Travessa Barão de Forrester 86
Apartado 26
4431-901 Vila Nova de Gaia
Portugal
Tel:  +351 223 776 300
Fax: +351 223 776 301
E-mail: symington@symington.com
Website: www.symington.com

Douro Superior and its Wine Annual Festival

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Douro Superior still remains a mostly inhospitable mountainous region, where river Douro provides truly astonishing views of an almost suffocating, breath-taking beauty.

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Douro – Photo Provided by Revista de Vinhos | All Rights Reserved

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“at times, an excess of Nature!” – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Miguel Torga used to say the Douro river was “at times, an excess of Nature!”

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The grounds are poor – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The grounds are poor; schist is abundant and the weather bounces from burning hot summers with temperatures often exceeding 45 degrees Celsius to a cold long winter lasting many months. However, the scarce rain allows for watering the vineyards, which is all you need to make exceptional wines.

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Vineyards – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Olive Tree – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In the last few years, the number of new vineyards has gone through the roof; the vineyard has completely taken over the land, where the view used to be mostly composed of olive and almond trees. Traditional horseshoe-shaped pigeon houses pop out here and there. So typical. That sub-region has been generating some of the best Portuguese wines of our time. This fact surely hasn’t escaped the organisation that threw the first Festival de Vinhos do Douro Superior 4 years ago, in its fourth edition this year.

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Festival de Vinhos do Douro Superior Fourth Edition – Photo Provided by Revista de Vinhos | All Rights Reserved

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Revista de Vinhos Has Been Performing Very Well – Photo Provided by Revista de Vinhos | All Rights Reserved

Revista de Vinhos has been performing very well. With its vast experience, it made a true interpretation of the vision behind this kind of festival, even though it takes place far away in Vila Nova de Foz Côa. The festival has indeed attracted wine lovers from all over the country in addition to people from the entire region, who take this opportunity to taste all the new releases and great classics – many of them awarded worldwide.

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Revista de Vinhos has proven able to organize an exciting programme for the media – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Revista de Vinhos has proven able to organize an exciting programme for the media – and for many professionals in the wine business including local bloggers – with guided tours that include lunch and dinner meals in some of the most beautiful lands in the region. These professionals sit down and taste a few wines in the form of a contest of remarkably organised completely blind tasting. From this tasting, this completely independent and heterogeneous panel announce their best picks.

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The Festival – Photo Provided by Revista de Vinhos | All Rights Reserved

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The Festival – Photo Provided by Revista de Vinhos | All Rights Reserved

After this event, people usually walk round the market to taste some wines and regional products – bread, cheese, sausages, jams, nuts, olive oil, etc. – or attend very interesting talks, led by some of the journalists from Revista de Vinhos.

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Railway – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Although the railway is an excellent option, the roads to Foz Côa have changed a lot lately, and have become much better and faster, which makes it easier to pop up there for an interesting day, and get back home in the evening. Or to spend two or three days further exploring a region with so much to offer, especially landscapes, where being “green” is a natural thing, and visible everywhere.

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A Region With So Much to Offer – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Especially Landscapes – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In this case, one must keep an eye out for accommodation, given the lack thereof, especially during the festival when everything is booked.

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Local Gastronomy – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Terrincho a Natural Favourite – Photo Provided by Revista de Vinhos | All Rights Reserved

Enjoying local cuisine is another good reason. Ranging from fried freshwater fish or marinated fish, olives, smoked sausages, cheese – Terrincho being a natural favourite – and beef, especially the Mirandesa kind; be it ribs, rodião (flank), or the traditional “posta à Mirandesa” (beef steak in the style of Miranda do Douro), all of them prepared in a simple manner: grilled with sea salt over charcoal, and cooked au point. On the plate, it’s served with a sauce based on olive oil, parsley and wine vinegar… you will find yourself eating with your eyes closed.

 

The group of journalists and bloggers always mingles on these occasions, exchanging stories in an environment of sheer camaraderie, which wouldn’t be possible if it weren’t for these event managers.

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Environment of Sheer Camaraderie – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

On the way home, everybody starts dreaming of next year’s edition, a good excuse for another visit to Douro Superior, its landscapes, food and wines, and ultimately to see the people who bring it all together.

See you next year!

A Winning Project in The Alentejo Interior

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

This exemplary rural unit is located in the Alentejo interior, south of Beja, and it belongs to a German group.

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Typical Alentejo Hotel – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In Albernoa, the Philosophy consists in combining a typical Alentejo hotel with a rural environment, where ecological care is a priority.

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The Beautiful Lake – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Firstly, the very beautiful lake gathers the perfect conditions for Ornithology. This unit produces many different goods, and wine is one of the best, its wines constantly earning awards across the world. They are produced from very good quality grapes covering about 170 acres of vineyards, white and red.

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170 Acres of Vineyards – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Much more is produced here, such as herbs, vegetables and fruit, which grow all year in a bio regime, and are mostly consumed in both hotels: Alentejo and Algarve.

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Cattle – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Cattle are another great produce, comprising cows, goats and pigs, whose meats are widely consumed in the group’s restaurants.

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Jumping Horses – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The jumping horses are another of the land’s ventures, some of them being thorough-breed, and claiming excellent results internationally. Furthermore, the company produces a very high quality olive oil, jam, honey and several biscuits.

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The Cellar – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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The Cellar – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The cellar operates in the main building. It was built from scratch and includes all the modern technical facilities for producing quality wine. This has been achieved continuously, also thanks to the leader of the entire team (not only dedicated to wine), Luís Duarte, one of the most awarded Portuguese oenologists. He has vast experience producing wines throughout Alentejo, and in the hotel he is also the Manager. Rigour seems to be the watchword, with every member’s tasks and responsibilities well outlined. Luís Duarte has succeeded in putting a clearly winner team together. The results speak for themselves.

All Herdade dos Grous wines belong to this brand, maintaining a sober image, which has grown on customers. Only its label’s colours change and, of course, the year of the harvests. On this visit, we tasted six superb wines with a delicious meal.

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Herdade dos Grous 2014 White – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The 2014 White proved very refreshing and young, with beautiful acidity, some fruit in the nose, and the wine quickly fading out of the glasses.

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Herdade dos Grous 2013 White Reserva – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The 2013 White Reserva revealed a lot of elegance, soft woody notes, some freshness, very soft – quite velvety. To be drunk slightly less cooled – a beautiful wine.

Herdade dos Grous Red 2013

Herdade dos Grous Red 2013 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The first red, Herdade dos Grous 2013, was solid, with a lot of ripe fruit, a lot of good acidity in the mouth, clean, round, a modern wine.

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Herdade dos Grous 2013 Moon Harvested – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Then followed Moon harvested, also from 2013, with good aromas of very ripe fruit, complex but very soft spicy and woody scents, beautiful volume in the mouth, consistent and full of elegance, with a very lasting finish.

Herdade dos Grous 23 Barricas de 2013

Herdade dos Grous 23 Barricas de 2013 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

23 Barricas, of 2013, is made with Touriga Nacional and Syrah; a very structured wine, with good character and a complex but fascinating and slightly floral nose. In the mouth, it has volume, excellent acidity, a lot of dark fruit; it is lightly austere, deep, and with a never-ending finish.

Herdade dos Grous 2012 Colheita Tardia

Herdade dos Grous 2012 Colheita Tardia – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

By the end of the meal, 2012 Colheita Tardia slipped into our glasses. Here, they prepare it with the Petit Manseng variety. Its grapes were injected with “Botritis Cinerea”, to create the necessary features for a very special wine. Where sweetness is strong, it is compensated with amazing acidity and somewhere in-between are complex spicy aromas, notes of honey, jam and ginger. However, everything is very balanced, and served cool. Delicious!

Herdade dos Grous The Meal Started with

The Meal Started With.. – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Herdade dos Grous Cured Chease Paiola Paio From The Neck

Cured Chease Paiola Paio From The Neck – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The meal, in the vineyard’s restaurant, started with bread from the region, olives, two different pates, normal butter and butter with herbs, tuna with black-eyed beans, cod with chick-peas, cured chease, paiola, paio (spicy pork sausage) from the neck and, of course, olive oil from the land in which to dip bread.

Herdade dos Grous The Meats

The Meats – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Herdade dos Grous The Meats

The Meats – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

After some scrambled eggs with wild asparagus came the meats from the land: lamb, black Iberian pork and Alentejo beef. They had been grilled only in salt, and served with a side of (literally) punched potatoes and sautéed vegetables, all local produce.

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The mix of Alentejo sweets – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The mix of Alentejo sweets disarmed us all!

Outside, the peaceful Alentejo plane still reigned…

Contacts
Herdade dos Grous
Albernôa 7800-601
Beja, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 284 960 000
Fax: (+351) 284 960 072
E-mail: herdadedosgrous@herdadedosgrous.pt
Website: www.herdadedosgrous.com

Porto Cruz, an Ever Expanding Company…

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

It may belong to a big French drinks producer and distributor, but this is a very successful Portuguese company. It leverages its strong Port wine production and has been highlighted as one of the biggest producers of Port wine in Portugal, and more so abroad, where most of the products go.

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Porto Cruz – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Also in the portfolio, you will find C. da Silva, who produce Dalva wines, and are a reference in their own sector.

A couple of years ago, the company got hold of most of the capital from Henriques and Henriques, and the total capital from Justino’s – both companies produce Madeira wine. Porto Cruz has recently bought Quinta de Ventozelo, one of the largest extensions of Douro vineyards.

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Alijó Winery – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Most Modern and Most Revolutionary Technology in Wine Production – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

However, it previously opened the latest cellar in Alijó, which relies on the most modern and most revolutionary technology in wine production.

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This cellar can hold 22 million litres of wine – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

This cellar can hold 22 million litres of wine. It has 40 vats that can hold up to 360,000L, other vats of up to 180,000L, among many other smaller vats. Two huge filters feed the entire complex, as do the structures for nitrogen and compressed air. An innovative automatic cleaning and disinfecting system keeps all the vats spotless.

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The Wine Pumping System – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The wine pumping system is also automatic. Everything is controlled via a sophisticated automation system.

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Stainless Steel Presses – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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The Equipment Paraphernalia Impresses the Visitors – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The stainless steel presses feed into the vats where wines will ferment and age. The wine is then moved into casks or directly into bottles. All the equipment paraphernalia impresses the visitors, whether due to quantity and quality, or due to the flawless hygiene.

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Every process takes place in this cellar, where all the company’s wines are made – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Every process takes place in this cellar, where all the company’s wines are made. They are stored there and dispatched from there.

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Stored in Giant Stainless Steel Vats © Blend All About Wine, Lda

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Age in The Biggest Park of Mashing Tubs in the Region © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Many go to Vila Nova de Gaia, where they will be stored in giant stainless steel vats, or age in the biggest park of mashing tubs in the region, of enormous dimension.

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Old Cement Vats – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Equally grandiose, the old facilities were adjusted to modern needs and have seen continuous growth. Inside, the old cement vats still active and part of an efficient use of all the space.

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Sophisticated System © Blend All About Wine, Lda

That is also where a sophisticated filling, labelling and packaging system takes place. It fills the enormous daily need for wine, in turn shipped worldwide. Efficiency seems to be the word of order as an announcement is made about improvements being done on the admin and lab sections.

The oenology team is supervised by Engineer José Manuel Soares, who has a lot of experience in wine growing and Douro oenology under his belt. Engineer Jorge Dias is in charge of project and strategy, and he has shown a talent in outlining a new profile for Porto Cruz wines as well as for the company’s branding, which is out for the world to see.

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The Imposing Porto Cruz Building – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

All that visibility is concentrated further down the hill, in the imposing Porto Cruz building – already a landmark of that area – on the riverside avenue in Gaia. From an old construction, they made a space where, as the owners put it, “wine must be lived!” A bold and very modern décor is home to the many visual devices the company invested in as innovative solutions for presenting the wine, especially Port. All of this was very well combined with culture, which fills this space permanently as well as temporarily, and all for the sake of Port wine and its history.

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Modern Restaurant – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The top floor hosts a modern restaurant, under chef Miguel Castro Silva’s consultancy, but where chef José Guedes works his wonders with a consistent appetising cuisine.

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The Terrace – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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The Terrace – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

On the terrace, there’s a bar with a 360º view of Gaia and Porto, sitting right opposite. It’s open until late in the warmer months of the year. On S. João night (24th June – a celebration of Saint John with riverside concerts and fireworks), we sit in the front row.

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Porto Dalva Golden White 1971 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

By the end of a very comprehensive visit, we toasted with some Porto Dalva Golden White 1971.

The river Douro flowed by peacefully…

Contacts
Espaço Porto Cruz
Largo Miguel Bombarda, N.º23
4400 – 222 Vila Nova de Gaia
Tel: (+351) 220 92 53 40 / 220 92 54 01
Fax: 220 924 299
Website: www.myportocruz.com | www.porto-cruz.com

In the Bairrada Region, a Producer With a Great Tradition

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

I remember many years ago, in cafés in Lisbon, it was customary to order “A bica (espresso) and a São Domingos!”

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Aguardente Bagaceira (Marc Spirit) Caves São Domingos © Blend All About Wine, Lda

This São Domingos was the brandy made by Caves São Domingos, and very popular as a high quality spirit. Times went by, drinking spirits became less and less popular due to a law that emerged in the meantime, but Caves São Domingos are still there and, among many other products, they produce this and other very high quality drinks.

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Caves São Domingos are Still There © Blend All About Wine, Lda

The cellars still include the facilities in Anadia, but have been growing and have been producing not only more wines and spirits, but also a broader variety of products.

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Their Prestigious Brandies © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Although the main – and most renowned – product is the sparkling wine, their prestigious brandies have kept the traditional customers coming as well as broadening the range of consumer types, who search more and more for genuine products. Table wines, from the regions of Bairrada and Dão, have taken over the front page of the company’s portfolio.

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Modern Cellar © Blend All About Wine, Lda

All these developments make them want to stay up-to-date, which is why the company now has a modern cellar and all the technology available – especially the Cold Chain that enables them to make modern attractive wines. Furthermore, they can also keep producing sparkling wines distinguished by national and international experts, and by the end customers.

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More Than 2 Million Bottles – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In their cellars now age more than two million bottles of sparkling wine, of several categories, and which are released in the market according to demand.

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Traditional Riddling Wine Racks © Blend All About Wine, Lda

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Coexisting With The Most Modern Method of Remuage – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

They still rest in the traditional riddling wine racks, where bottles are turned by hand every day. Those racks coexist with the most modern method of remuage (turning bottles periodically) and allow for producing a larger amount of sparkling wine while ensuring the quality.

Thanks to great care in dissemination, participation in countless national or international fairs and wine tasting events throughout the country, sparkling wines are more and more consumed with the rich Portuguese cuisine, which goes far beyond roasted suckling pig – although a still very popular and very good natural partner.

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Demi-johns © Blend All About Wine, Lda

This is also where they store the liqueur demi-johns and the ageing casks for several brandies produced in those cellars. The latter are known in many markets as the best in Portugal. São Domingos wines are made of grapes from their own vineyards and other producers’ vineyards in Bairrada and Dão, who the company assists with technical matters, ensuring top quality raw materials.

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The Old Wall Clock – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In the main room, the old wall clock reminded us that it was time to taste some wines. So we did, with Caves São Domingos white 2014, of floral aromas and some citrus lending the Maria Gomes and Bical varieties. In the mouth, it feels velvety, slightly citrusy, flavourful and very enjoyable. Next was Volúpia White, also a 2014, although comprising Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Maria Gomes varieties – a modern wine and very fresh, very mineral, with excellent volume in the mouth, very balanced acidity and filled with elegance. – For a more detailed insight of these white wines please check João Pedro de Carvalho previous article here.

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Velha Reserva Brut 2008 © Blend All About Wine, Lda

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Cuvée Brut 2011 © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Then, the sparkling wines. First, Velha Reserva Brut 2008, made of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, very fresh floral notes in the nose, hay, brioche and a little hint of toast. The bubble is very fine and elegant, it was refreshing in the mouth with notes of nuts. Following, the Cuvée Brut 2011, with Baga and Sauvignon Blanc, had some complexity in the nose, it was fruity, with dry notes, a very refined bubble, very refreshing in the mouth with a hint of toast, very soft notes of almond – a very elegant sparkling wine.

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Lopo de Freitas Brut 2010 © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Finally, we tasted Lopo de Freitas Brut 2010, already a classic wine by this company. Cerceal and Chardonnay make an excellent match, their bubbles very refined, slightly fruity aromas, somewhat exotic. In the mouth, it has excellent acidity; it is full, creamy, with light notes of nuts and a lasting and pleasant finish.

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Roast Suckling Pig – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Some Citiric Suggestions – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Present in the roast suckling pig was Blanc de Blancs Brut 2011: very fresh, mineral and with some citric suggestions, great acidity and battling the pork.

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Blanc de Blancs Brut 2011 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

To finish, “an espresso and a São Domingos”, of course…

Contacts
Caves do Solar de São Domingos, S.A.
Ferreiros – Anadia
Apartado 16
3781-909 Anadia – Portugal
Tel: (+351) 231 519 680
Fax: (+351) 231 511 269
E-mail: info@cavesaodomingos.com
Website: www.cavesaodomingos.com

AS – Cork, How corks are produced today

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Portugal is the greatest producer of corks (for bottles) in the world, as well as one of the biggest producers of cork.

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Portugal is one of the biggest producers of cork – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The relationship wine has with corks is self-evident and, although attention has been drawn to other materials, cork corks are still the reference when it comes to sealing bottles. Furthermore, producers all around the world have gone back to using cork tops as a result of the enormous development in the quality of this raw material.

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The Raw Material – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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High-End Technology – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Some production units in Portugal have invested in high-end technology, which means corks of much higher quality and a big drop in production costs, which ultimately helps companies make a profit.

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AS-Cork – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

This is the case with AS – Cork (Américo Sousa & Filhos Lda.), whose headquarters are in Santa Maria de Lamas. The company’s development has been steady, relying on a very well programmed investment policy based on the market’s demands. This growth brought them to invest in the Moroccan market, where their production unit has proven quite successful.

The family that own the company are local and have been connected to the cork industry for a long time. Two brothers dedicate their full schedule to the three factories, located quite close to each other.

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The raw material is then selected, cut and stored – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In the first factory, they receive the raw material, which is then selected, cut and stored. The selection process is a careful one, where any unsuitable cork will be separated.

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The Cork is Disinfected Using Several Processes That Involve Boiling – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Then, the cork is disinfected using several processes that involve boiling in appropriate machines.

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Cork Shavings – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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First Stage of Cork Production – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Once dry, it is moved for the first stage of cork production, which will carry on in the second factory.

In the meantime, and maintaining quality control throughout the process, the cork shavings and the damaged cork, which cannot be used to produce corks but may be used for other purposes, are removed and sold to factories for other cork products – for decoration, for insulation, cork ballast, etc. They leave nothing to waste.

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Maintaining Quality Control Throughout The Process – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Cork Discs – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In the second factory, quality control continues with the help of modern equipment, which allows for some innovation, whether in the production process or in the final products, such as cork discs – this company’s specialty – used to produce corks for sparkling wine and champagne. These are in high demand, and are sold to other units, seeing as that type of cork is not widely produced in Portugal yet.

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This Fully Automated Unit Prioritises Cleaning – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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More and More Sophisticated Machines – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

This fully automated unit prioritises cleaning, in order to make contamination impossible. Machines are more and more sophisticated; using cameras and even laser beams, they can read in 2D and 3D, and are highly profitable and very efficient.

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Extremely Well-Equipped Lab – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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A Specialised Team Tests Every Type of End Product – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In the extremely well-equipped lab (which includes a chromatograph), a specialised team tests every type of end product, based on strict guidelines. No mistake can be made – one of the company’s principles.

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The Third Factory – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The third factory buys all the production off the first two and later sells it to countless clients – mostly foreign.

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The Factory Where the Corks Are Finished- Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

This factory is where the corks are finished, as per the client’s order, whether national or foreign.

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Another Laboratory Continues the Quality Control – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Another laboratory continues the quality control, ensuring all Health & Safety guidelines are met, and according to international law.

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The Finished Corks Are Dispatched – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Finally, the finished corks and cork discs are dispatched. This stage also involves using packaging that ensures the end product is protected until it reaches its final destination. A few months or even years later, we will surely find many of these corks when unwrapping wine bottles of various origins, even if this means one of the greater French champagnes.

A genuinely Portuguese product produced in line with the best products in the world.

A couple from the North fell in love with Alentejo’s Arrepiado Velho

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

One day, a couple from the North of Portugal decided to buy this piece of land near Sousel.

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The Main House – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

All they had to do then was rebuild some buildings, especially the main house, making it comfortable enough to live in. Once the vineyards were planted, producing wine was only a baby step away, thanks to the precious help of oenologist and friend António Maçanita and an expert in wine growing, David Booth, who already left us.

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The Winery – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Although they want to build a new cellar, the current one has all the necessary conditions and modern technology. This is where grapes and wines are prepared, and where wine waits to be bottled.

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Not so Ordinary Labels – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In the meantime, the couple’s son, António, and his wife Marta got busy selling the wines. Marta, who works in Design, designed the very unusual labels – really quite unique, and which make Arrepiado Velho bottles stand out in the crowd.

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Marta Neto and António Antunes – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

They got so involved in the project, they decided to move to Alentejo and work full time on producing and selling these quality wines. Marta stayed linked to Design. Even though they have two small children, they get excellent quality of life, and have adjusted perfectly.

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Lake – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The land has been developing; it now includes a lake, which stores all the water the vineyards need, but is also used for leisure, for instance the fun trips on the pedal boats. More than 75 acres of vineyards look very well kept and healthy, and the olive trees produce some quality olive oil. They want to plant more vineyards soon and add them to the existing varieties: Antão Vaz, Verdelho, Chardonnay, Viognier and Rieseling for white wine, and Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot for red.

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Wine Tourism is a Reality – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

A number of rooms and a beautiful pool opens the doors to wine tourism in Arrepiado Velho, although they want to improve on it. Many local products are used to make breakfast and other meals served there. Other products come from the same region, offering a variety of Alentejo traditional items.

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The Vineyards – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

On a walk around the land, we see vinyards all around, interrupted here and there by olive trees and holm oak.

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Orange Trees – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Dogs – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The traditional orange trees are present too, keeping visitors and playful dogs company.

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Crackling Fire – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

At dinner, by the crackling fire lit to prevent the evening chill, we relished a full table.

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Regional Bread – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Olives and Olive Oil – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Delicious regional bread came with olives, and tasted lovely dipped in olive oil.

Board of Different Sausages and Sliced Cheeses - Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Board of Different Sausages and Sliced Cheeses – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

And a board of different sausages and sliced cheeses tempted everyone. Meanwhile, our glasses were filled with white Antão Vaz 2014, which surprised us with its freshness, aroma and some tropical fruits; although non-exuberant, it revealed a good body and very balanced acidity.

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The Wines – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Right after that, Arrepiado white 2014, refreshing in the nose, with some pineapple, something mineral, good acidity and quite balanced.

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Stuffed Tomato – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Then, followed a very flavourful and rich stuffed tomato, which led to a surprising white Rieseling of very fresh citrusy notes, pineapple, grapefruit, and mango. In the mouth, it is very elegant and persistent, staying fresh – a very interesting wine.

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Delicious Sautéed Mushrooms – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Then, it was time for Arrepiado Velho Rosé, made from Touriga Nacional and Syrah, slightly floral in the nose, very fresh, an intense and full mouth, notes of very elegant red berries, which paid excellent company to the delicious sautéed mushrooms, in turn meaty and well seasoned. The first red was Brett Edition 2011, with developed aromas, tobacco, leather and some spices, good volume in the mouth, round, elegant, persistent – a different wine.

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Lamb Roast and Runny Rice – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

It accompanied a lamb roast and runny rice with greens and chouriço – excellent. We finished with a superb Red Arrepiado Velho Collection 2011 – full of class and dark fruits, notes of tobacco, slightly balsamic in the nose, a voluminous mouth, notes of smoke, chocolate, ripe dark fruits and a lasting finish.
And there was no room left for dessert.

Surrounded by peace and quiet, I had a long and deep sleep…

Contacts
Herdade do Arrepiado Velho
Tel: (+351) 256 392 675
Fax: (+351) 256 392 676
E-mail: amantunes@arrepiadovelho.com | mneto@arrepiadovelho.com
Website: www.arrepiadovelho.com

Ruy Leão and his Shiko establishment

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

There’s a new place for Japanese food in Porto near Batalha, another restless area buzzing with all these new hotels and tapas restaurants, all very popular. Plus, the majestic beauty of Teatro Nacional S. João, equally busy with cultural affairs.

Well, further ahead, on the way to the upper tray of D. Luís bridge and the Guindais funicular tram, on Rua do Sol, a new space has opened, where chef Ruy Leão prepares and serves Japanese food. He called it “Shiko”.

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Shiko – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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More Than Sushi or Sashimi – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Japanese food that goes far beyond sushi and sashimi, including a number of very interesting cooked meals.

Ruy Leão, a Brazillian from Recife born in 1981 into a family of musicians, came to Portugal some time ago to a restaurant in Guimarães, where he started exhibiting his talent and good taste for this type of food, which has lately become so fashionable in this area. While he was young and still in Brazil, he was more interested in drawing and painting. However, he already loved sushi at the time, so he attended a course and then began teaching his friends at home. Given the invariably positive result, he was encouraged to make a career out of it. He naturally began working in restaurants and even contacted chef Carlos Faustino, who encouraged him to get the course in the first place. And so the adventure began, with his full dedication to this passion, which indeed turned into a career. Once in Portugal, from Guimarães, he moved on to Matosinhos with chef Pedro Nunes, in restaurant 44; he took control of the sushi counter, where he became very successful. After a spell in Rua do Sol, in Porto, with his Portuguese wife, they found a vacant space a few hundred yards away.

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Ruy Leão and His Wife – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

That was when they decided to take the leap and get their own space.

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A Very Plain Décor but Very Attractive – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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The Chef’s Table – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Sleeves rolled, a very plain décor but very attractive, a small but very cosy space. Tables for two run along the left wall of the long corridor and bigger tables are on the right. Down at the end, the chef’s table sits four; here, Ruy serves special menus of his own creation, and the client has no say in the matter.

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The Counter on the Left – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

On the left is the counter behind which Ruy and his assistant prepare the food before it’s served. In the table section, Alexandra Leão is the boss, spreading her friendliness about.

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Fish Displayed on the Counter – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Fish Displayed on the Counter – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The counter includes a display, where the fish shines through, almost all of it from the Portuguese sea, always very fresh and put on display only after being very well cleaned. Some are not so common types: blackbelly rosefish, wrasse, sole, red mullet, horse mackerel, mackerel – on display, no tricks. It’s a pleasure to watch both prepare the well-presented pieces – two by two or in creative compositions.

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Sushi – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Nigiri and Gunkan – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Some are pieces of sushi, urumaki, nigiri and gunkan, others are sashimi of very well sliced fish of various types off the Portuguese coast.

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Sashimi – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Tempura – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Using different types of seasoning is the rule, as are marinades, different seeds and even tempura, which resemble the Portuguese panados (breaded food, generally stakes).

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Breaded Shrimp – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Breaded Crab – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

They can be made with shrimp, crab or chicken breasts.

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Food served in Two-piece Canoes – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Or in Dishes of All Sizes – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The food is served in several containers, from small two-piece canoes to dishes of all sizes made in Portuguese china or glass, and can be served in a group atop a huge slate – what an excellent effect.

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Azahar 2012 white – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Out of a list of wines of original choices, on our last visit we tasted two wines: a white Azahar 2012, from Santo Tirso – very refreshing, good acidity, very pleasant dry notes, excellent company for this kind of food.

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Mafarrico 2012 red – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

And also a Douro red – and why not?! – Mafarrico, also 2012, very elegant, delicate although with good volume, leaving a good impression and keeping good company to many of the pieces we tried. Before we left, we scheduled another visit to this Porto “Shiko”…

Contacts
SHIKO – Tasca Japonesa
Rua Sol, 238
Porto
Tel: (+351) 223 239 671
Facebook: facebook.com/SHIKOtascajaponesa

Esporão, an Alentejo Classic

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

One of Alentejo’s greatest properties, with 4450 acres of land, 1100 of which have active vineyards and the other 200 acres have olive trees producing excellent olive oil.

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The Restaurant – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Wine Shop – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

If we add a very well designed countryside cellar, a restaurant making excellent food, a wine shop selling various items and a pool of water that helps mould the landscape and waters the entire complex, we will get one of the few wine tourism locations in Alentejo. One day is not enough to enjoy it properly.

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Vineyards – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Out of all of the above, the most attractive feature is the production of the wine– besides the breath-taking landscape of unusually endless vineyards, the quality and care they put into everything they do, and, of course, the wines of many levels, where quality is the standard and almost an obsession. This team is led by an oenologist who, although born far away in Australia, has become very Portuguese and was recently naturalised as a Portuguese citizen. David Baverstock can’t hide his passion for the work he does so well; besides, he is very well supported by the viticulture and oenology team in the hands of Luís Patrão. The results come in with every new harvest.

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Grape Variety Corropio – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Grape Variety Molinha Macia – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In viticulture, the ampelographic area they keep is obviously of great importance, including 188 Portuguese species as well as many others from all over the world, where much of what belongs to Portugal is preserved, and its evolution and potential are analysed. Species with odd names, such as Tinta Pomar, Molinha Macia (soft and tender), Malvasia Cândida (Candid Malvasia), Corropio (Rush), Uva Salsa (Parsley Grape), Tinta do Bragão, Arinto do Interior, Larião, Amor-não-me-deixes (Don’t-leave-me-love), Carrasquenho and many others are proving their worth. But the most traditionally Portuguese species (Alicante Bouschet, Aragonês, Touriga Nacional, Verdelho, Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro, Gouveio) and some foreign (Syrah, Petit Verdot, Semillon) are where they get the base for most of their symbolic wines.

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Modern Winery – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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New Technical Features – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Some of these grapes are then prepared in a modern cellar that was recently renovated, to include new technical features.

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Casks – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Then, they rest in that incredible gigantic cask cellar. On our recent visit, we tasted a few of those and confirmed their potential, once again.

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Duas Castas white 2013 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The Duas Castas white 2013, made from Gouveio and Antão Vaz, proved to be very clean, with light vegetable aromas, very citrusy and delicate. In the mouth, it is very refreshing, intense and persistent, has fruity notes and some mineral – a youthful wine.

Private Selection white, also 2013, is a completely different wine. Modern and seductive, fermented in wood, which is apparent straight away in the nose, somewhat exotic, very elegant, some white fruits, smoky notes and lightly toasted. In the mouth, it’s plump, full, of buttery notes, some very soft chocolate – a very harmonious wine.

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Reserva 2013 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Still within the whites, we move on to Reserva 2013, a classic wine, also fermented in wood and very clean, with a little fruity intensity – somewhere between citrus and white fruits – and light smoky notes. In the mouth, it’s full, ample, including very ripe white fruit, balanced acidity and some freshness combined with persistent minerality.

Private Selection red 2011 reveals all the potential of an extraordinary year. Complex spicy aromas, some red fruits, very soft notes of chocolate and tobacco.: in the mouth, it’s austere, full, with notes of cocoa and coffee, intense, good acidity and a long, flavourful aftertaste.

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Quatro Castas red 2013 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

We move on to Quatro Castas red 2013, the nose is somewhat floral, perhaps red fruits and very fun notes of spices. In the mouth, it’s ample, with excellent acidity, some complexity, very elegant with a very interesting medium aftertaste.

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Reserva red 2012 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

We finish with a classic, Red Reserva 2012. This wine has an exuberant nose and includes some wild fruits, a little smoke; it is spicy and elegant. The mouth is simultaneously elegant and austere, full-bodied, slightly toasted, with dark fruits, good acidity for balance and probably good longevity. A beautiful wine.

On our way out of the estate, we had to stop at Esporão Tower, a commission by D. Álvaro Mendes de Vasconcelos built between 1457 and 1490. It was recovered in 2003 and, today, houses a museum of archaeology, where valuable items collected in Esporão and in Perdigões are displayed.

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Esporão Arch – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Chapel of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Beside the tower is the Esporão Arch and a Chapel of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, which also belong to the history of this property, whose origin is lost in time…

Contacts
Herdade do Esporão
Apartado 31
7200-999
Reguengos de Monsaraz
Tel: (+351) 266 509280
Fax: (+351) 266 519753
E-mail:reservations@esporao.com
Website: esporao.com

Wine Tradition, History and Production as an Art

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Alentejo encompasses a significant number of magic places; whether for beautiful scenery, never-ending lands, earth-grown products or historical families and buildings. One specific location in the Estremoz region includes all of the above: Quinta Dona Maria, dating from the 18th Century, which belonged to king D. João V at a point.

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Dona Maria, Júlio Bastos – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Entrance – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The current owner, Júlio Bastos, has proven his skills in maintaining the beauty and quality of the facilities, so rich in history, and the magnificent surrounding gardens. His other talent is investing in producing high-quality wines, these days renowned worldwide as deluxe products.

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The Beauty – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Quality Facilities – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

It is made from very good grapes of different species, of which Alicante Bouschet stands out amongst the reds. The grapes are prepared in an old cellar – very well restored with beautiful presses made of marble from that region – where they still crush the grapes under their feet. Powerful wines age there – with strong character yet very elegant, with a particular profile and excellent potential to accompany food.

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Vineyards – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

When wine is grown with rigour, vines are well guided and watered by nature, your grapes turn out very sound. Later, they are timely harvested and carefully selected to make wines with the Dona Maria signature.

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The Winery – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

On our recent visit, we were greeted by oenologist Sandra Gonçalves and the owner, Júlio Bastos. They brought us on a tour of the austere yet beautiful cellar, revealing what grape preparation process lies behind such good wines.

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Wood Ceilings – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Old Cement Reservoir – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The cellar’s wood ceilings are fantastic, along with supporting columns with ceramic vaults surrounded by thick stone walls, which also house the old cement reservoirs, still in use after restoration.

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Casks – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In another room, the wines rest in countless French and American oak casks, to be bottled in due time, and then continue ageing for some more months or years. After enlightening explanations about the whole production process, Júlio Bastos invited us into the tasting room where Sandra Gonçalves prepared a tasting guided by the two. Júlio Bastos entertained his usual strict tone, even in regard to his own wines. He was, however, immensely educational regarding Alentejo wines in general, which he knows very well. Before us, eight wines were presented, much to our delight:

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Dona Maria Whites and Rosé – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Dona Maria white 2014 maintains the tropical aroma profile – quite citrusy, refreshing, of balanced acidity and great volume in the mouth. The Amantis white 2013 let the Viognier species shine. It had very soft tropical notes and some white fruits, with a hint of smoke, balanced acidity keeping it very elegant.

Viognier 2013 still felt very young, combining aromas of white fruits and a light floral scent, but very elegant, with volume in the mouth, full, intense acidity but balanced, with an excellent aftertaste. Next, an amazing Rosé 2013, very balanced, with soft tropical aromas alongside a complex mouth, very refreshing, with notes of tropical fruits, strawberries, jam and acidity that connects all of the above, and a great aftertaste.

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Dona Maria Reds – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Moving onto the reds, Dona Maria Red 2012, a brand with aromas of ripe red fruits, light smoky notes and blackberries. It’s lively in the mouth, with excellent acidity, intense red fruits and good volume, a well-balanced wine. The red Touriga Nacional 2011 reveals the quality in that year’s harvest. The elegant aromas of violet and bergamot with light smoky notes and some spices contrast with the full mouth – velvety, with notes of red fruits and some chocolate, and excellent acidity.

Next was Amantis Red Reserva 2009, a muscular wine, complex, with aromas of ripe dark fruits and refreshing. In the mouth, it’s volumous, maintaining complexity, notes of mint, red fruits and some spices, persistent acidity and a beautiful aftertaste.

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Quinta do Carmo Garrafeira 1986 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

For the grand finale, Júlio Bastos opened a bottle of classic from this farm, Quinta do Carmo Garrafeira 1986, previously decanted. It showed violet hues and some brown smatterings, which determined its age; very elegant, a smooth velvety nose and some red fruits. In the mouth, it is delicate, smooth, of deliciously soft tannins, full of complexity, very balanced acidity, persistent, slightly smoked, with a very, very long aftertaste. It gets better if opened a few hours beforehand and proves that Alentejo reds also age well.

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The Main House – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Once outside, in the enormous yard, we were “crushed” by the beauty of the main house, which continues on the inside. Its many rooms lead us almost three centuries back. In a corner of a room, through a secret passage, we can almost see D. João 5th walking in for a stealthy visit to D. Maria, the courtier to whom he had gifted Quinta do Carmo…

Contacts
Quinta do Carmo 7100-055 Estremoz
Telefone: (+351) 268 339 150
Fax: (+351) 268 339 155
Email: donamaria@donamaria.pt
Website: donamaria.pt