Blend All About Wine José Silva, autor em Blend All About Wine

Camelo restaurant – a Minho classic with proper regional food…

October 9, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

It’s been over 25 years since the Camelo family opened this great eatery in Santa Marta de Portuzelo, on national road no. 202 a few miles away from Viana do Castelo. They have focused on regional food from the start, and especially on using many excellent ingredients.

The Camelo restaurant has seen steady growth; they started working as a venue early on and now have many rooms that can fit up to 1000 people. In the summer, they get incredible amounts of business!

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But none of this has affected the Camelos’ judgment. They have a very comfortable old room, masonry block on the walls, personalised service, and very well set tables offering the best of conditions for our big meals. It’s advisable to book a table, especially for the weekends, because it usually books up all-year-round. Mr. Camelo is constantly running round; he greets us with a joke: “Have you seen any [camels] round?”

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At the entrance, a cosy waiting room with sofas and a bar right beside it offer a more welcoming wait, just in case our table isn’t free yet. Especially because, besides the house’s iconic dishes, some are especially sought after in certain seasons, as people travel long distances especially. The shad and lamprey season is one – from January until April – and the many lamprey dishes (à bordalesa (Sliced, marinated in white wine and boiled in its own blood and vinegar, served with rice or toast), in rice, or roasted in the oven, among others) are extraordinary, and are cooked with high-quality lampreys from Lima river. The shad, fried in thin pieces, with a big lettuce salad, and a panada made with the roe is unavoidable. On every second Sunday of the month, crowds pour in to enjoy a tremendous cozido à portuguesa [a Portuguese-style meat stew], which is a little hard to describe.

There is plenty of choice of appetisers – codfish buns, codfish cakes, chouriço, salpicão [both are smoked sausages], orelheira [pig’s ear], and boiled snout-and-onion chouriça – and sometimes the peculiar caralhas: beef (steer) giblets poached in verde tinto wine [green-red] from Perre – delicious.

The soups are excellent – from the seasonal vegetable soup to caldo verde (Soup of potato and Caldo Verde kale with slices of chouriço), chicken soup, and even the superb papas de sarrabulho (Mash of boiled meats, with flour, blood and boiled liver) garnished with a lot of cumin!

Being close to the see brings in some seafood and very fresh fish: sea bass, hake, sea bream, turbot, sole – which is plainly grilled, plainly boiled, or cooked just like the Camelo-style hake. Codfish always makes a strong presence, as one expects in Minho. Besides the more traditional preparations, Camelo-style codfish is one of the most popular; always a tall piece, soaked to perfection and very well accompanied. But the meats are what stand out in this traditional-style restaurant’s menu – be it pork, beef or poultry.

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The complete Minho-style rojões [meat cubes], which may be served with a side of arroz de sarrabulho [rice cooked in pork blood], the tasty and soft barrosã steak, or a decent beef chop (steer).

The Serra dArga oven-roast kid delights its fans. Plus, that ode to Portuguese cuisine that is cockerel with arroz de cabidela [rice in blood sauce] is called “the barefoot cockerel” here, reflecting typical Minho humour. Besides the cockerels raised in this property, many other animals are raised by neighbouring farmers, who are trusted by the Camelos.

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Blend-All-About-Wine-Camelo Restaurant-red vinho verde

Hard, tasty meat wrapped in carolino rice – cooked to perfection – peer from under the lid of the iron pot that just arrived at our table. The very important touch of wine vinegar livens the mixture. What a concoction!

The house’s red vinho verde, served in a bowl, made just the right kind of company. Does the feast end here?! Not at all, desserts are on their way and come in a seemingly endless parade. The leite-creme [crème brulée], the flan and the rice pudding confirm tradition – excellent.

Our goodbyes are, as always, a “see you soon”…

Contacts
Rua de Santa Marta 119
Estrada Nacional 202 – Santa Marta de Portuzelo
Viana do Castelo, 4900-252
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 258 839 090
Website: www.camelorestaurantes.com

Wine and art bond (Aliança) in the heart of Bairrada

October 6, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Aliança has belonged to the Bacalhôa group for some time now. It has successfully maintained and refined its very own identity. Although it produces wines in other wine-growing areas, it mostly identifies with Bairrada, and that is where it’s located.

While Aliança sparkling wines convey the company’s prestige and market acknowledgement, their Bairrada wines have shown gradual growth, and are asserted today as excellent wines from a region that freed itself from its ties to now travel far and wide, full speed ahead, always headed for quality. Aliança brandies continue resting in the depths of the cellars, taking their time, yet continually delivering the same extraordinary quality.

In a recent visit, we took an interesting walk round the cellars and round the revolutionary museum, which they call Aliança Underground Museum. It lodges hundreds of amazing pieces of the owner’s vast collection, which are well worth the visit. Many wines they produce and store in the cellars share this cultural trip.

It is also where sparkling wines are undisputed rulers, as you would expect, even judging by the number of ageing bottles. Down the low, dark halls covered in mould that build up the constant dampness, which – along with low temperatures and a small thermal interval – offer the best conditions for these wines to develop with natural gas.

The brandies fill up the lowest part of the cellars, where an incredible amount of very old wooden casks encase them inside that surreal atmosphere.

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We tried none other than the house’s wines and bubblies in a very interesting tasting led by Francisco Antunes, the company’s director of oenology and a big expert in the region, with many years of experience in producing both still and sparkling wines; he is addicted to hunting, and is always in a contagiously good mood.

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We began with Aliança Branco Reserva 2014 (white), made of Maria-Gomes, Bical and Arinto – a warrior wine. Citrus yellow, crystal-clear, a lot of white fruit on the nose, a little floral, very elegant. On the mouth, it’s dry, very refreshing, citrusy, medium-bodied – a modern wine. It makes a great choice at €2,15 a bottle. We move on to Aliança Tinto Reserva 2012 (red), made with Baga, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. A lot of fruit, a lot of freshness, and youth. On the mouth, it’s intense, persistent, maintains quite a few notes of ripe fruit, and tamed yet very present tannins – a food-friendly wine.

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The Aliança Tinto Baga 2009 revealed all of the Baga variety’s aromatic excellence. It’s intense and has a lot of fruit and notes of jam; it’s round, has good volume on the mouth, very ripe red fruits, powerful and very well defined tannins, excellent acidity and a long finish. A beautiful wine that already tastes very good, but will age very well and for many years. We move on to the bubbly wines, starting off with Aliança Rosé Baga-Bairrada Bruto, a buzzing product in the market. Of a very soft salmon-pink and very small bubbles, it proved very elegant on the nose, a little floral, and with notes of red fruits. On the mouth, it’s dry, with excellent acidity, beautiful structure and a lot of elegance – a modern sparkling wine.

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Next followed Aliança Baga-Bairrada Bruto 2013, a citrusy, crystal-clear drink, with small, very elegant bubbles. On the nose, it revealed notes of green apples, a few nuts and toast. On the mouth, impressive freshness and vibrant acidity; dry, intense, lightly toasted notes and a long and delicious finish – an excellent Bairrada wine. We ended the tasting with a classic, the Aliança Bruto Vintage 2010 of lightly toasted shade of yellow and very small bubbles building a persistent bead; an exotic nose with notes of nuts, walnuts, toast, and nutmeg. On the mouth, it’s powerful, dry, very complex, of intense acidity, voluminous, full, creamy, and with an everlasting finish – an excellent sparkling wine.

We move on to the table, where we tasted a few of these wines, which accompanied a range of appetisers – petingas [small sardines] and carapauzinhos [small horse mackarel], codfish buns, and suckling pig rissoles.

After that, an oven-roasted cockerel with pea rice. For dessert, cheese, marmalade and pão-de-ló [sponge-cake]. The Aliança wines continued to flow through our glasses.

Outside, we said goodbye, and “see you soon”…

Contacts
Aliança – Vinhos de Portugal SA
Rua do Comércio, 444
Apartado 6
3781-908 Sangalhos
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 234 732 000
Fax: (+351) 234 732 005
E-mail: alianca@alianca.pt
Website: www.alianca.pt

The New Chryseia 2013…

September 29, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

This time, the Prats & Symington partnership, between the Symington family and French oenologist Bruno Prats, have selected chef José Avillez’s restaurant Belcanto in Lisbon to present their new wines: Prazo de Roriz Douro Doc 2012, Post Scriptum Douro Doc 2013 and the cherry on the cake, Chryseia Douro Doc 2013.

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Representing the Symington family, Rupert Symington came along with Bruno Prats, who once owned Château Cos d’ Estournel, in Bordeaux, before he fell in love with Douro. Let us be reminded that the 2011 Chryseia was considered the third best wine of the world by North-American magazine Wine Spectator in 2014! It thus sold out quickly, and was immediately followed by the 2012 vintage. The market has been out of Chryseia ever since. Therefore, everybody present shared curiosity and anxiety to taste the new vintage, Chryseia 2013.

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Blend-All-About-Wine-Chryseia 2013-Bruno Prats

We were welcomed with quality and friendliness, which this venue has always delivered. We started, as is traditional of the Symington family, with the Paul Roger champagne, in this case the Brut Rosé Vintage 2006, which tasted superb and at the right temperature even though it was a hot day. While in a chatting mood, we enjoyed the several delicious appetisers being served round the room to accompany the champagne, or vice-versa, poured with the finesse one expects from a two-Michelin-star restaurant: round lupin seeds with kaffir-lime and piripiri (chilli pepper), XL-LX olives and cherry gazpacho. The tone was set.

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Already at the table, we were poured a Prazo de Roriz Douro Doc 2012, with the typical deep-ruby appearance. The nose presented a lot of very ripe fruit, notes of blackberry and plum and a light floral aroma. Very voluminous on the mouth, full, intense, but elegant; plump dark fruit, acidity and freshness in perfect balance, and a good finish; a wine that can still evolve in the bottle for a few years. It accompanied the Ferrero Rocher, roast chicken, and the chef’s own creation, called A horta da galinha dos ovos de ouro [The vegetable garden of the goose that laid the golden eggs], eggs, crunchy bread, and mushrooms… Art by chef Avillez’s kitchen right there on our tables.

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We were still leaning back in our chairs, enjoying those amazing flavours, when we were served the Post Scriptum Douro Doc 2013. Of a deep, dark garnet, it revealed fresh notes of figs, plums, blackberries, and some spices. On the mouth, it proves very young, fresh, with excellent acidity, intense tannins, but it’s already very well matched to the fruit, leaving a lasting and delicious finish. This paid very good company to the charcoal-roasted red mullet with liver sauce and Bulhão Pato-style clam purée, a very elegant and refreshing, delicious dish.

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Blend-All-About-Wine-Chryseia 2013-ox-tail

The most awaited moment arrived; Chryseia Douro Doc 2013 was swishing around in glasses, in a dark, intense, opaque garnet. Very exotic on the nose, of characteristic aromas of dark fruits, yet some raspberries, light spicy notes. Despite the intense tannins, this wine is extremely elegant, round, well-structured and has a never-ending finish. It will last a very long time… That is, if it makes it thus far! It stood up very well to a superb ox-tail with chickpeas, foie gras, veal tendons, onion cream, and cheese from the Azores Island. It was hard to describe, given the complex flavours in this very high-level dish, which made a perfect match for the Chryseia. Dessert was yet to come, and the Quinta de Roriz Porto Vintage 2000 was served; a Douro classic, still very dark in the glass, with intense dark-fruit aromas and already revealing light notes of nuts and some chocolate.

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Very voluminous on the mouth, and full of structure, a lot of fruits, notes of spices, smoke, wild plants, a wine that will not stop evolving, with a very lasting finish. It accompanied a disconcerting dessert: chocolate, banana and peanut, for a perfect end to the meal…

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Blend-All-About-Wine-Chryseia 2013-Graham’s Tawny 30 Anos

With the top-up espresso and the petit fours, the Symington family tawny tradition: Graham’s 30 Year Old Tawny Port, full of nuts, crispy, extraordinarily elegant, a great Port wine.

Cheers!

Contacts
Quinta de Roriz
São João da Pesqueira
5130-113 ERVEDOSA DO DOURO
Portugal
Tel: +351-22-3776300
Fax: +351-22-3776301
E-mail: info@chryseia.com
Website: www.chryseia.com

A grape-harvesting weekend in Douro…

September 22, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Grape harvests have started in full swing all over the Douro region, with a hand from the weather. It was in a grape-harvesting atmosphere that we spent our weekend at Real Companhia Velha, comfortably settled in Palácio de Cidrô.

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We enjoyed all the architectural beauty, the wonderful gardens, and the silence of the cool nights under clear skies.

A very pleasant “ambulant” dinner party awaited, as it escorted the first and very traditional wines of this company. Shredded codfish, fried codfish buns, thin veggie omelettes, vegetable rice, homemade moist cake and a variety of fruit.

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Besides the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sparkling wines (the latter tasted very good), we tasted the traditional whites from Cidrô – Sauvignon-Blanc and Semillon – and the reds Cabernet Sauvignon with Touriga Nacional and Pinot Noir. But a surprise, a Quinta do Cidrô Cabernet Sauvignon, was yet to come… a 1996 still full of life. We ended with Port wine, of course, Colheita 1986, which quickly slipped down our throats.

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The next day, after a delicious breakfast, we arrived at Quinta das Carvalhas in two shakes, accompanied by all the beauty of Douro.

And there it was, waiting for us, Sousão vineyard. A herd of grape pickers was already at work; we joined them in the hard task of picking bunches of grapes.

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When we arrived, they quickly provided a bucket, gloves and scissors.

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Harvest over, we continued going up the hill, stopping here and there as Pedro Silva Reis told us about the constant evolution of the company.

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The more we looked, the more overwhelming Douro became.

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When we arrived at Casa Redonda, with that amazing 360º view over the Douro river, our cameras couldn’t stop shooting, “dictated” by the landscape. Miguel Torga would have said: “It’s too much Nature!”

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A few appetizers awaited, as well as a rich “feijoada à transmontana” (a bean, cabbage and meat stew), one of the most typical meals during the grape-harvesting season.

Lest we forget, the Carvalhas wines in new clothing. Whites full of freshness and excellent acidity, the reds fully bodied, young, with very ripe fruit, amongst them the amazing Tinta Francisca, very elegant, replenished, and exquisite. The wines are really very good, modern and nicely presented. Álvaro caught up with us and amused us with many stories and info about his biggest passion, wine production. But it was time to go to Quinta da Granja in Alijὀ, where the huge cellar was working hard on the harvest.

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In the cellar, we picked grapes from a tray as we listened to Jorge Moreira’s explanation, the main oenologist. He even gave us samples from the vats.

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Finally, the bravest squashed the grapes of red wine and Port inside the granite winepresses. It was celebration of the harvest. We still had time to taste a meatball and a few glasses of wine before we went back to Cidrô, tired but happy.

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All refreshed and buttoned up, we gathered in the first floor palace hall to share some snacks and wines, among which the Evel XXI tasted very good. Very lively, it conveyed finesse to the brand; the Sauvignon-Blanc Cidrô was absolutely delicious as usual. At the wheel, Pedro Silva Reis revealed his good taste and friendliness once more.

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Sitting at the table, we enjoyed a crispy alheira (garlic sausage) with fried egg and greens, followed by roast loin with roast potatoes.

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We ended in the best way with a Vintage 1997, which embraced our spirit.

In the background, the happiness in Álvaro’s live music gently rocked us and made us smile…

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In the morning, after breakfast – those scrambled eggs with tomato were unbelievable! After that, it was farewell and back home.

I mean, it was a ”See you soon!”

Contacts
Real Companhia Velha
Rua Azevedo Magalhães 314
4430-022 Vila Nova de Gaia
Tel: (+351) 22 377 51 00
Fax: (+351) 22 377 51 90
E-mail: graca@realcompanhiavelha.pt
Website: realcompanhiavelha.pt

The Yeatman Hotel Sunset Wine Party

September 15, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Last month, on the 27^th August, The Yeatman Hotel hosted another Sunset Wine Party. Coincidentally, it took place just as this hotel unit received another World Travel Award for Best Boutique Hotel in Portugal, adding to the dozens of prizes The Yeatman Hotel has been collecting since the year it was opened.

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This was another carefully planned evening, ensuring that the glamour and quality of the products walking hand in hand. Superbly led by chef Ricardo Costa in the kitchen, and Beatriz Machado, director of wines, in the rooms, this Sunset was a testimony of good taste, finesse and quality, which we always expect from The Yeatman Hotel.

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Guests were welcomed by competent and extremely friendly staff; they were walked to the access-bracelet collection point where they were handed a personalised glass for this special occasion; it was to escort them throughout the whole event. Right next to that, two counters offered several cooled sparkling wines and a window with fresh oysters and slices of lemon, composing an auspicious entry. Several different salads and very well cooked cheeks were served next door, in a large room, alongside a counter filled with other wines for the customers to enjoy freely.

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In the opposite direction, in another room, an immense profusion of cheeses from several regions was exhibited on one side. In the centre, a broad variety of bread, and on the other side, freshly sliced presunto and several tipes of smoked sausages. The room included a counter with many different wines. Over to the biggest room, a surprise awaited: two enormous counters on each side presented Indian-style appetisers, of which curry was the most well-known and, in the centre, two enormous tables were covered in sushi and sashimi, which were always being restocked. On both sides, counters presented some wines: whites and rosés on one counter and reds on the other.

The wines were poured at the recommended temperature, once again by very friendly staff, who explained the wines as they were served, demonstrating care and strictness. It was very pleasing! Beatriz Machado was unstoppable, spreading her friendliness and good taste around, and ensuring that everybody was being served properly. Chef Ricardo Costa visited the room several times to instruct the waiting staff with strict measures and for a chance to speak to the many participants to confirm that the food was to their liking. And it was.

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The only food that was prepared in public was black pig plumas (meat from the upper back) and secretos (meat from the neck) – grilled and served in buns. That section was also generosly equipped with different wines. The visitors spread around the many tables that were scattered around, whether in the rooms or outside on the enormous terrace, depending on how resistant they were to the cold. However, it was a peaceful evening of very pleasant temperature after a few light showers. Outside, there was a counter where a few Ports and cocktails were prepared.

After reversing the route, now back near the entrance, two other rooms, one after the other, invited guests for an excellent picanha with black beans, farofa (fried manioc flour) and sautéed cabbage. Right next to this was the dessert room, where a giant counter was coloured with several kinds of fruit and another one with sweets, in case any brave stomachs were still able for them. Even a cart carrying delicious ice cream tempted guests a little more. The lemon and the strawberry flavours were divine! The accompanying wine counter offered… Port wine.

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You could eat and drink to your heart’s content, without any constraint. The general rule was to appreciate the many offers that filled the evening and night, accompanied by extraordinary wines that composed excellent harmonies. Congratulations, once again, are in order to The Yeatman Hotel and the entire team of professionals.

On the other side of the river Douro shone the beautiful city of Oporto…

Contacts
The Yeatman Hotel
Rua do Choupelo, (Santa Marinha)
Vila Nova de Gaia
Porto 4400-088
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 220 133 100
Fax: (+351) 220 133 199
Website: www.the-yeatman-hotel.com

Areia Restaurant Bar, a delicious meal by the sea

September 8, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

One day, this genuine Minho lady, born in Caminha, decided to devote herself to cooking, a passion that gradually took her over, and is now her whole life. Fishing is, together with agriculture, one of the main sources of income in the district; taking all this into account, Margarida Rego started researching, studying, tasting and trying to get to know products at the higher end. And so she continued creating dishes, making changes and even some provocations, without neglecting the traditional good things from her homeland. She also enjoys meeting her suppliers, some of which are also her friends.

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These were the reasons why she embarked on managing a space which isn’t much more than a beach hut, Areia Restaurant Bar, in the beautiful Praia do Carreço, a bit further north of Viana do Castelo.

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Margarida still keeps the place as a beach hut, where she serves snacks; however she has adapted it – both indoors and the terrace outside – to serve her very unique cuisine, which evolves according to what becomes available, especially products that come out of the sea: sea urchins, red-beak goose barnacles, rock crab, the always excellent bream, – and when it’s tastier – the very octopus, john dory, sea bass, prawns in their season, and a real passion for seaweed from that very same sea, and which she cooks superbly. The meat as well; either pork, beef of the barrosão or cachena breed, depending on what is available.

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Besides, there’s all that modern and airy modest space right on the sand, fully invaded by that amazing landscape, and the all-mighty sea in the background. The service is remarkable, with quality staff, who serve you pleasantly and efficiently throughout the meal, including an exquisite wine service.

Although it was a bit windy, we decided for the al-fresco area, which turned out right. Bottles were opened after having been kept cool in a frappé, while we drank them.

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Various kinds of bread were served, with olive oil and different condiments; all of a sudden the percebas (or goose barnacles in the north of Portugal) appeared, absolutely gorgeous!

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Immediately followed by already opened rock crabs, full of eggs, tasting of the sea.

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Also tasting of the sea were the ready-peeled sautéed prawns on a bed of delicious seaweed, their antennae were well fried and crunchy; we ate them all.

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That’s when the first provocation arrived – a rock crab soup. First, they served the dish with its contents, and immediately poured the rock crab broth over them; excellent.

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The octopus was very tender, served with batata a murro (literally punched baked potato), sautéed cabbage and a very soft red pepper foam – very good.

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Margarida’s second provocation followed, an excellent john dory fillet on a bed of green beans and various types of seaweed – symbolizing both the countryside and the beach, which you can see on either side – and also a celery and garlic purée.

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To rinse our palate and prepare for meat, we were surprised with a sea urchin, very refreshing with little bits of strawberry.

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Then it was time to eat meat, or barrosã in this case, it was cooked just right, very tasty, with a side dish of delicious mushroom risotto and a green salad where rocket and purslane stood out.

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The meal ended with a superb chocolate mousse, sprinkled with… salt flower, and the effect was unbelievable.

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During the meal, we strolled through the António Futuro whites, a modern and appetising young vinho verde by Vale de Ambrães; another verde was already mature, well structured, and consistent; then, the elegance of an Alvarinho by Quinta de Santiago, mineral, saline, and very refreshing. The Ortigão sparkling wine brought along a young and very lively modern Bairrada to prepare us for the right Alentejano: complex, very elegant, well matched with the wood, the Esporão Reserva. At last, a delicious Quinta da Manoella appeared on the scene, Douro in all its strength. For the last drink, a Port full of tradition, Quinta Seara d’ Ordens LBV 2010, that lingered in the mouth for a long time.

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The sea, oh well… it was still right in front of us…

Contacts
Areia Restaurante Bar
Praia de Carreço
4900-278 Carreço
Viana do Castelo – Portugal
Tel: (+351) 258 821 892
E-mail: geral@areia-restaurantebar.com
Website: www.areia-restaurantebar.com

Narcissus Fernandesii Restaurant

September 1, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

A five-star hotel in Vila Viçosa was the latest news about two years ago and has proven very successful. Seeing as it belongs to a family involved in the marble business, it’s only but natural for marble to be the noble raw material most used in the decoration. There’s a touch of marble of different colours and different origins everywhere, conveying a very unique glamour to the space around. Refined and highly comfortable bedrooms and en-suites will offer you an invigorating and peaceful stay. The tranquility of the beautiful Vila Viçosa invites you for a stress-free walk around it, including a visit to the old castle and The Palace of the Dukes of Bragança, an amazing museum, which tells you a bit of the History of Portugal. Afterwards, when you arrive back at the hotel, all the comfort and support are there to help you recover from your walk: outdoor and indoor pool, and a perfectly well-equipped spa. Professional, competent and friendly staff will wait your every need. In the morning over a fantastic breakfast, in the afternoon or evening in the bar and, of course, in the restaurant, one of the attractions of this hotel, curiously called ‘Narcissus Fernandesii’. A wide space with two separate rooms and an outdoor terrace looking on the pool.

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In the main room, wide and elegant, a huge table stands out – a large glass top sits on a gigantic stand made of a single marble slab. The breakfast items are displayed on it, and it can also host meals served to groups of guests. Lighter meals at lunchtime and the à la carte menu for full-course meals in the evening.

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There’s always excellent local bread and olive oil from Alentejo, but also some very tasty butter preparations.

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Some appetisers to start with – always very well presented, such as codfish morsels in a mint açorda (spiced, cold broth), farinheira buns, red onion jam, and shoot salad, or partridge pie with fruits of the forest, and sautéed seasonal mushrooms.

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Traditional soups can’t be missing, like pumpkin cream with poached egg and croutons made from Alentejo bread, pumpkin soup with truffle cream served in a cup, and a delicious purslane soup.

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Or a foie gras with a sharon-fruit emulsion, foie bonbon and acorn toast, unbelievable.

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Codfish can’t be missing, like codfish with Galician olive crust over potato à brás and algae purée; even some fish and fresh seafood, like the carabineiro from the Algarve (special large prawn from this region) with cauliflower purée and coriander, endives and lemon emulsion.

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And the richness of a steer tornedó with foie gras, sautéed vegetables, roast potatoes and spinach cream, or venison smoked in oak and rosemary, with a Madeira wine reduction, broad beans and coriander shoots, quince cream, cauliflower in breadcrumbs and a crunchy presunto (prosciutto) made from beef.

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The desserts are fantastic, but the Vila Viçosa orange variations were superb.

Vila Viçosa awaited in its serenity…

Contacts
Largo Gago Coutinho Nº11
7160-214 Vila Viçosa
Portugal
Tel: (+351)268 887 010
E-mail: reservas@alentejomarmoris.com
Website: www.alentejomarmoris.com

Brasão, a successful restaurant that treasures tradition…

August 28, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

It’s near Felgueiras, and has been practising traditional cuisine for quite a while, even after the required modernisation of the premises. Entirely leaded by Mr. Carvalho, the owner and chef de cuisine with has an undeniable passion for what he does.

Brasão it’s a very pleasant space, with two separate dining rooms, both displaying the same care for table layout and for the attentive and professional service.

Even though the kitchen is his main post, our host is always running back and forth, ensuring his customers are not neglected, and going from table to table to greet them and find out what they feel like having. He’ll come back to the tables later on, to find out about how they liked it, always wearing a smile and the wisdom of many years handling these products and the kitchen. The point is exactly the quality of the products, for only first class ingredients make part of their stock, from fresh fish from the coast to cod, and all the meats: either pork, beef or calf, and mountain lamb, all of which he turns into unbelievable dishes. This excellent professional reveals a restless search for perfection, even when preparing a mere dessert. Wine is another of his passions, and real treasures can be found in his well-stocked cellar (just to mention an amazing collection of bottles of aguardente – rum-like liquor or spirit –, about which Mr Carvalho is deeply knowledgeable. On our last visit, we were served bread and broa (corn-bread), salpicão (pickled-pork sausage) and thinly sliced presunto (salted or smoked ham) while we waited for one of the house specialities: grouper soup.

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It’s a real tribute to quality, very fresh fish in generous portions, garlic, lots of onion, green and red pepper, and coriander.

Some toast on a plate, a generous ladle, a bit more steaming broth, an overpowering aroma, and finally voluptuousness, as you eat with your eyes closed.

Afterwards, we tasted a superb oxtail stew with greens, which is very hard to describe such was its perfection, texture and flavour; amazing! Then, another bestseller usually only available on Wednesdays (or by order): roasted ox spareribs.

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The slab of baby back ribs is seasoned and roasted in one piece and then carved in front of you, after the coat of fat is removed.

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On your plate, you get slices of meat with that tasty layer of fat, crunchy sliced-potato chips, black beans and a sinful oven-baked rice, which also accompanied the oxtail. We are over the moon!

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That’s when dessert is served, an ensemble duet composed of toucinho do céu (‘Bacon from heaven’, a rich-custard sweet which includes no bacon whatsoever) and of a fantastic carrot cake: soft, sprinkled with sugar and slices of roasted almonds, pumpkin jam and some spearmint leaves… now this is heaven on Earth!

The wines were up to scratch: first we drank a white from the Amarante area, called Sem Igual (Nothing like it); very floral, with notes of citrus and white fruit, a remarkable elegance on the mouth, a beautiful modern wine. To “counterbalance” the meats, no better than a sparkling red made from the Vinhão variety, Afros Yakkos Grand Reserve 2006. Simply fantastic, with very fine bubbles, persistent fruits of the forest, notes of dark chocolate, intense yet simultaneously elegant tannins, and a long lasting finish. To go along with the dessert, the choice of an old aguardente – really old –, the classic Adega Velha. This one was over 50 years old; beautiful, slightly cooled, with toasted aromas, dried fruits, in a lovely contrast with the sweetness.

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However, a surprise was yet to come, just the way Mr Carvalho’s likes it: another very old aguardente, which I hadn’t seen for 10 years, a Serradayres. Also over fifty years old, incredibly soft and very elegant, it made a perfect finish for a great meal.

In Brasão, tradition is kept alive…

Contacts
Cimo de Vila – Refontoura
4610 Felgueiras
Tel: (+351) 255 336 118
E-mail: info@restaurante-brasao.pt
Website: www.restaurante-brasao.pt

Quinta de Santiago

August 25, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Quinta de Santiago, on the doorstep of Monção, right in the middle of Monção and Melgaço sub-region, the first-choice land for Alvarinho wine.

This very ancient property has been in the same family for several generations, and it’s also where Alvarinho grapes have been growing. The present owners’ daughter, who makes a living as a lawyer, is responsible for producing and distributing the farm wines, a passion that arose unexpectedly, albeit with a very peculiar explanation. Joana and her brother used to spend their holidays apart; he would stay with one pair of grandparents while she would stay at their grandparents who lived in Monção, that is, in Quinta de Santiago.

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And that’s when her love for the land started; she learnt how to recognize the aromas, to pick fruit and vegetables and, when time came, she watched the harvest, and the grapes being crushed, at the same time helping around and getting everything ready for the new wine to be well prepared.

The bond with her grandmother grew stronger. At the time, her grandmother used to sell the wine to local coffee shops and grocer’s, keeping a small amount for their own consumption.

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When new rules and regulations were passed, her grandmother started selling the grapes, putting a certain amount to the side in order to produce her own wine. Although it was Joana’s father’s dream to produce wine for the market, it was her grandmother who, at the age of 86, challenged her son and granddaughter to work together to plan a project for the production of her wine. They both took her advice and that’s how, in 2009, the project of Quinta de Santiago came forward. Their first wine turned up in 2011.

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Nowadays, Joana Santiago lives with her husband in Ovar and splits up her daily life between her job as a lawyer and her job as a producer of wine in Monção, where she recently opened up her new cellar, sketched and built by her husband in record time.

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Modern, very practical and well equipped, this cellar is Joana’s new addiction and she spends as much time as she can there, following every step related to the production of her two wines: Alvarinho and Reserva.

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However, she reserves the old cellar underneath the old living quarters for wine tastings and group meals. Fairs, festivals and competitions are all part of her present life, some all over Portugal and even abroad where her wine, filling 15,000 bottles a year, has been well praised.

Nowadays, her wines are a big hit, highly appreciated, besides constituting an actual business, which Joana proves to be the leader of, and the person responsible for this life-project.

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Quinta de Santiago Alvarinho 2013 in quintadesantiagoalvarinho.blogspot.pt

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Quinta de Santiago Reserva Segredo da Avó 2013 in quintadesantiagoalvarinho.blogspot.pt

Quinta de Santiago Alvarinho 2013 is a typical Alvarinho, showing lots of minerality, loads of tropical fruit (a quality of these wines), citrus, peach, passion fruit, and tonnes of mountain flowers. On the mouth it maintains the intense flavour of the white fruit; it shows freshness and excellent acidity, beautiful volume and it always has the characteristic minerality. All this makes this Alvarinho a very elegant wine.

Quinta de Santiago Reserva Segredo da Avó (“Grandma’s secret”) 2013, is a serious wine, full of complexity on the nose, still revealing some exotic white fruit, soft smoky notes, slightly toasted, confirming that it was aged in casks. On the mouth, it shows structure, it’s full and elegant at the same time, persistent, fresh, with lively acidity, still revealing ripe fruit and light notes of spices, and always that delicious minerality in a very gastronomic wine.

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These are Joana Santiago’s “boys”, a self-confessed “Alvarinho lover”…

Contacts
Quinta de Santiago
Rua D. Fernando, 128, Cortes – Monção
4950-542 Mazedo
Tel: (+351) 917557883
E-mail: wine@quintadesantiago.pt
Website: quintadesantiagoalvarinho.blogspot.pt

Quinta do Cume looking down at Provesende…

August 18, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Jorge Tenreiro and Cláudia Cudell own Quinta do Cume, in Provesende.

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He is a vascular surgeon and she used to paint beautiful paintings. He still uses a scalpel every day, but he also discovered pruning shears and other instruments he uses to “operate” on his vines; she hardly paints any more, because she has dedicated her heart and soul to selling the wines they both love to make. They count on the expertise of their oenologist and friend Jean-Hugues Gros, a frenchman who has become more of a “douroman” than many “douromen”. Only in 1998 did Jorge Tenreiro buy lands where, along with his wife, he would build a magnificent house and start planting vines, especially of white grapes.

Until, in 2006, they started producing white wine with a little rosé.

In 2009, they also started making red wine. They bought old vines in the lower part of the village and now make reds that are already very popular.

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Up top, the vines of white grapes cover up the landscape.

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They mostly consist of Malvasia-Fina, with a little Rabigato and Viosinho. The more than 600 metres of altitude convey freshness and elegance; the schist-rich and poor grounds convey minerality. In the meantime, production evolved, and they began producing white Reserva wine every year; a red Selection and a red Reserva, and red Flor do Cume. The latter was only made for exporting. In the fabulous year that was 2011, they made a very special red, Grande Reserva; the only harvest until today, having produced a limited edition counting 1540 bottles and 90 magnum. Total production of Quinta do Cume currently amounts to about 40,000 bottles.

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Meanwhile, they built a cellar; small yet modern, big enough to cover their orders. What wasn’t big enough was the bottling section, which created serious “traffic jams” in the cellar, and is the reason why they are now building a warehouse for finished goods, bottling and labelling. The following project will be an amazing tasting room, which will grow amid the vineyard, and will rely on this couple’s proven good taste. They once again welcomed me with simplicity, to a lunch meal as simple as it was delicious.

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To open my appetite, a superb smoked salmon with droplets of lemon.

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Then, alheiras (Portuguese garlic sausage) from the village, toasty and crunchy, accompanied by fried egg, boiled potatoes, and sautéed cabbage, the latter two well covered in olive oil; lastly, a side of bread from the village baked in a wood-fired oven.

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For dessert, a delicious salad of peach from the quinta; no need for anything else.

We started off with Reserva white 2014, to compare with the 2013 – what a difference a year in the bottle makes. It was elegant, with scents of white fruits and mountain flowers; on the mouth, marked acidity, freshness, notes of citrus and some vanilla; all very soft and well matched. The 2014 is youthful, fruited, intense; it will be a great wine.

When we “attacked” the alheiras, we tasted Selection red 2013 and Reserva red 2012. Selection is a modern wine, showing a broad range of harmonised elements; soft, yet persistent, a lot of ripe fruit, refreshing and appetising; it’s food friendly.

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The red Reserva has more intense aromas, red fruits, notes of wood, smoke and spices. At the same time, it carries freshness and very good acidity; it’s velvety, very elegant.

We then skipped to Grande Reserva 2011, a serious red, concentrated, austere, with exotic aromas. On the mouth, it shows excellent volume, notes of dark fruits, a light touch of dark chocolate, beautiful acidity and a long-lasting finish. To store for a good few years. When the peach salad arrived, we went back to the white 2013, which was kept in ice in the meantime, and it made a perfect match.

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Down the hill, the village of Provesende remained peaceful…

Contacts
Quinta do Cume
5060-261 Provezende
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 91 445 7550
E-mail: quintadocume@netcabo.pt
Website: www.quintadocume.pt

Posts By : José Silva

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Narcissus Fernandesii Restaurant

Brasão, a successful restaurant that treasures tradition…

Quinta de Santiago

Quinta do Cume looking down at Provesende…