Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

The spirit of this restaurant in Viseu is very traditional and got us used to its traditional, regional and Portuguese recipe book. A couple of years ago, the owner opened a new restaurant quite close to the original one (now a wine shop). More and more customers come in every day, many of which celebrate birthdays, christenings and even weddings there. A visit to this place was an absolute must, so we hit the road to the new Santa Luzia. With an ample parking lot, very modern and smart facilities, including a separate party space.

The sober decor matches tones of black, grey and brown, and white ceramic floor.

Tables were expertly set, and with care. The staff are remarkable, very professional, kind and attentive, and they also offer wine service. The cellar is quite extensive; naturally, most wines were Dão, but you would find it offers wines of many other regions in the country.

Astonishing Counter – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Enormous Garlic Cloves – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

On a recent visit, besides enjoying the quality of the establishment, as soon as we walked into the room, we were welcomed by an astonishing counter covered in traditional local products: a giant head of kale, enormous garlic cloves and onions, a lively head of lettuce and a mountain of Bull’s Heart tomatoes!

Lively Head of Lettuce – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Bull’s Heart Tomatoes – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

At the table, we were presented with a very good loaf of bread from the region, served with generous slices of the same “ox-heart” tomatoes, sprinkled with a generous amount of sea salt.

Loaf of Bread – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Slices of the same “ox-heart” tomatoes – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

That set the tone for an excellent meal.

 

Then came the ham, salpicão (thick pork sausage) and cured cheese, fried petingas (small sardines) and marinated shad filets.

Before we could take a breath, briefly barbecued smoked sausages arrived: chouriço, farinheira and morcela from Beira. While we tackled these delicacies, inside the hot ovens lay the much-awaited rooster in the traditional cabidela (fowl giblets and blood stew).

In our glasses, Pedra Cancela white was already flowing. It’s made with Malvasia Fina and Encruzado; very refreshing, of a beautiful structure, balanced acidity and excellent volume in the mouth, which made an excellent accompaniment for the entrées.

Time for the big event: the cabidela rooster was served with rice. The pot is set right on the table, respecting tradition. The lid opened releasing a delicious aroma, and its perfumed included the perfect amount of vinegar – just a touch. The feast began. The rooster meat was tough and tasty, the kind you need to chew. It was very well cooked. The Carolino rice (Portuguese long-grain) was cooked au-point and very well seasoned, with a thick sauce and the ideal amount of vinegar. Everything was served very hot – delicious.

We had to have seconds – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Pedra Cancela red Reserva Dão 2012 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

So we had to have seconds, a full plate. We just couldn’t resist it. In the meantime, we had moved on to Pedra Cancela Reserve red 2012, a full wine, deeply red, with great acidity and some freshness, and voluminous, keeping the cabidela rooster good company.

The meal ended with plump and juicy sweet cherries. It is their season after all. Old town Viseu expected us for a reinvigorating walk…

Contacts
Estr. Nacional 2
3515-331 Viseu
Tel: (+351) 232 459 325
E-mail: geral@restaurante-santaluzia.pt
Website: www.restaurante-santaluzia.pt