Posts By : João Barbosa

Vinha d'Ervideira Antão Vaz Vindima Tardia 2013

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

Hate is an ugly thing. Besides making your nose wrinkle, putting your toenails in a twist and making your liver go bad, hate does no good. For instance, cases of fanatical and terrorist intolerance – an easy and current example, lately very popular in the news.

Somebody said ‘there is no use to a man without enemies’. I disagree and even reverse this: there is no use to a man without friends. However, nobody is all bad or all good. I will write about people and stories of what their tastes get them into. A debate, when civilised, can be delightful, especially when it is more than just a chat, confrontational rhetoric and absence of thought. Some cases are inexplicable – also interesting to talk about.

Something keeps badgering me! A quixotic war against Antão Vaz grape species. To be honest, if so many farmers grow it, it must have many fans. Maybe I am the one who’s “wrong”.  A friend of mine goes into an epileptic seizure – metaphorically – if he even smells cabernet sauvignon. For me, it’s that other grape named after a person.

I can be extravagant at times, which is why I sometimes have romantic tiffs. In another life, they would put me in sabre duels with antão vaz. Pretending is fun, as do teenage girls with nervous smiles when they lock eyes with the cutest boy in school… me at the time!

As a knight defending his damsel in distress – i.e. the pleasures of scent and taste – I am imperative:

– I hate antão vaz grapes! Its vines should be pulled down and the vineyards cleaned out. And anyone caught with a stem of the “thing” should suffer physical punishment in re-education camps.

I don’t hate! I know – since last year – some words are very dangerous: never, always, everything, nothing, all, none…

During a recent visit to Adega da Ervideira, near Monsaraz, a medieval village, I had to swallow a series of insults I had previously used for antão vaz. Literally swallowed.

This species may well be the most appreciated in the whole of Alentejo. Almost always (for me) heavy, excessive, sickening, tiring and rustic. Faults, which most wine lovers admit to exist in some wines. However, natives of Alentejo “discovered” arinto and the end result is higher than a simple arithmetic sum.

What I do wish to mention is one antão vaz single-species in God’s cellar… A devil of a wine. This is my second favourite Antão Vaz. The other one is also a single-species (Solista 2010, Mayor cellar, by oenologist Paulo Laureano).

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Vinha d’Ervideira Antão Vaz Vindima Tardia 2013 in wonderfulland.com/ervideira/

Vinha d’Ervideira Antão Vaz Vindima Tardia (Late Harvest) 2013 has impressive freshness and character, it is sweet but not over-the-top; it is mighty. It fills your mouth, where it releases scents and goes far and deep for a long time.

I have only mentioned it because of my quarrel with antão vaz and because I was surprised to hear it is a late harvest, and free of botrytis. However, one collection has other choices, all within the usual quality and natural charm. Nélson Rolo is the oeonologist in charge of Ervideira wines.

By the way… Herdadinha is worth a visit. This piece of land accommodates Ervideira Cellar. Why not join in on wine tourism? The land goes as far as Monsaraz and has a view of the Alqueva lake… Gorgeous! Although I do miss the time when the sea wasn’t there… I sigh conformed.

Contacts
Adega Ervideira
Herdadinha – Vendinha
Reguengos de Monsaraz
PORTUGAL
el: (+351) 266 950 010
Fax: (+351) 266 950 011
E-mail: ervideira@ervideira.pt
Website: www.wonderfulland.com/ervideira

Porto Fonseca Bicentenary

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

Wines can be classified as good or bad, those with stories and those without, those which have history and those which don’t. Only good wines reach this last level. Longevity allows for historical stories. Frequency establishes a good reputation and high status. Fonseca ports are made of “kindness”, stories, history, reliability and reputation.

Centenaries are a good reason for a toast. The Fonseca company, now part of The Fladgate Partnership group, is celebrating its bicentenary. Coincidentally, another significantly more important date is also celebrated this year.

In the 16th century, a man named Michel de Nostredame became famous for his prophecies, apparently accurate. He divined – believe it or not – the emergence of three antichrists: the first Napoleon Bonaparte and the second Adolf Hitler, whose name is similar to “Hister”, the prophet’s original vision.

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Fonseca’s Port Wines in the-yeatman-hotel.com

I took the liberty of rewriting this “truth” on antichrists: Josef Stalin, Fuminaro Konoe, Hideki Tojo, Mao Tse Tung, Pol Pot and many dictators of lower impact. Napoleon could only be deemed a demon in his era. He held the motto of the French Revolution and spread it – at random – throughout Europe.

Before the “real” Napoleonic war, the War of The Oranges took place, when Spain took over Olivença, in 1801. In 1806, Portugal refused the order to take part in the naval blockade of the British Isles. Hence, it was invaded by Spain and France, and King Dom João VI, his family, the court and the staff escaped to Brazil.

There were three French invasions: one in 1807, then 1809 and 1810.  In what we call The Peninsular War, those invasions were lead by Jean-Andoche Junot, Nicolas Jean de Dieu Soult and André Massena. In 1811, Anglo-Lusan (Portuguese) troops kicked out the French and Spanish invaders.

Napoleon Bonaparte was defeated by the British troops, commanded by Arthur Wellesley and allies, on the 18th June 1815 in the Battle of Waterloo. Once the conflict was over, the soldiers returned: Lusitanian Loyal Legion patriots and the traitors of the Lusitanian Legion, who fought for France. Many of the traitors were spared and some even had streets named after them. I don’t understand my country.

The Chinese write recession with two combined characters: danger and opportunity. Business is naturally risky, and in war times, even riskier. The Peninsular War ended on the 10th April 1814, with the Battle of Toulouse. The news didn’t travel fast; it was virtually impossible to keep up-to-date with the army’s moves. Even though a year had gone, starting a business in that context was very risky, especially since the client was in Great Britain and there were still fiend ships at sea.

In 1815, supported by the Monteiro family, João dos Santos Fonseca bought 32 casks of Port Wine. Later, in 1860, the Guimarães family arrived – the anglicised name is Guimaraens – and, later on, the Yeatmans, in the second half of the 20th century.

It still is a family business. Two hundred years later, what can one say? Everything is written in the first two paragraphs.

Contacts
Quinta do Panascal
5120-496 Valença do Douro
Tel: (+351) 254 732 321
E-mail:marketing@fonseca.pt
Website: www.fonseca.pt

Vasques de Carvalho Wines

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

Cosmic scale aside, ‘a century ago’ is a long way away. Back then, the world was black and white… at least it’s what photographs show. Nonsense aside, reaching that milestone is worth celebrating.

Although not absolutely extraordinary, the truth is few humans get to say they got as far or beyond the one-century-old hurdle. Just a few days ago, Portuguese filmmaker Manoel de Oliveira died at the age of 105. Those who met him say he was very youthful – just like these wines.

The same goes for companies, or for the time a family has lived in a specific location. The moment such a contract is signed is when the story begins. This is a young company, founded in the year 2000, but its roots go back hundreds of years. The Vasques de Carvalho family settled in Vale do Rodo in the mid nineteenth century. They now own twelve acres of old vines, traditionally planted in tiers. Like most Douro farmers, Vasques de Carvalho sold their wine to companies in Gaia. However…

However, not one single year did José Vasques de Carvalho, great grandfather of the current manager, let go of a harvest. He kept everything until 1880. It’s a gem – confirming the vision of this eighteenth-century farmer.

Back to the main point; what can we taste now? Besides Port Wine, Vasques de Carvalho are presenting a wine collection, whose origin is identified as the Douro region. That designation is common to all the wines, as is a very elegant and scented profile. Because the white grapes are bought outside Portugal, I believe the design is oenologist Jaime Costa’s craft, of renowned competence. All the wines are refreshing and elegant.

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Oxum white 2013 in vasquesdecarvalho.com

The 2013 White Oxum encompasses viosinho, gouveio and rabigato grape species – a good conversation starter for passionate oenophiles, who often debate nose and mouth. Jaime Costa, once an army general, uses words like “very mineral, with fruity notes of peach and ripe citrus.” I beg to differ and, in agreement with my tasting partner, would say: delicate without being fragile, with a bouquet of soft jasmine, orange tree blossom and a pinch of lemon. The mouth, unfortunately, is missing something scent-wise. Each chooses one, between these two and other options. All in all… a beautiful wine.

Now, the white is where I mostly disagree with the oenologist, who was persistent on the Douro. To be honest, I find that writing descriptors is dull and I doubt that anybody would buy 0.75 litres of fruits of the forest…

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Oxum red 2012 in vasquesdecarvalho.com

Oxum Red 2012 keeps your appetite keen. Elegant and enjoyable, I feel some Douro in it as well as exceptional elegance. Above it is X Bardos Red 2012 – robust as a knight and pleasant, with remarkable depth in the mouth.

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X Bardos Red 2012 in vasquesdecarvalho.com

The Tawnies we tasted are not alike. Oh, the elegant aromas present in these wines. I did expect the 10-year-old Tawny to stand out more. I believe it could be improved.

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Vasques de Carvalho 10 years Tawny in vasquesdecarvalho.com

Ten years aren’t the same as 40, the comparison being an intellectual exercise. Vasques de Carvalho 40 years is a brilliant wine. Brilliant! Brilliant! Brilliant!

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Vasques de Carvalho 40 years Tawny in vasquesdecarvalho.com

I wish them success, because producers at this level are always welcome. Right, I almost forgot: the company will be selling 750 bottles of the 1880 wine. A few thousand litres of this treasure will remain untouched in the vats. An “all-inclusive” wine, better to taste it for yourself.

Contacts
Vasques Carvalho
Av. Dr. Antão de Carvalho n. 43
5050-224 Peso da Régua
Douro, PORTUGAL
Mobile: (+351) 915 815 830
Tel: (+351) 254 324  263
Fax: (+351) 254 324 263
E-mail: vasquescarvalho43@gmail.com
Website: vasquesdecarvalho.com

I bet on Península de Setubal

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

Península de Setúbal is a peculiar region, in a way. On the one side, it belongs to Lisbon’s Metropolitan area, yet still considered part of Alentejo. The map outlines it as one of the districts, but adding different realities to the mix makes an even greater mess and the political drawing becomes abstruse.

I don’t understand why a vineyard in Grandola could be similar to one in Palmela. Right, the Atlantic Coast; of course… In that case, why is Odemira part of Alentejo? Never mind the fact that the Alentejo boroughs in the Setúbal district aren’t, in fact, in a peninsula.

Bureaucracy and nonsense aside, what matters is the wine from a region which I find very interesting, from an oenophilic point of view.

I will start – and end – with the quality of the wine. Finding a bad wine in the Setúbal Peninsula is not an easy task. There are trustworthy producers in “both regions”. However, few are big enough to expose their products properly. According to the Regional Vine-Growing Commission (CVR) there’s a “Top 9”, which proves my point: the tenth is in another reality. Few companies have the minimum necessary dimension to be talked about.

In alphabetical order – to be polite – there is Adega de Palmela, Adega de Pegões, Bacalhôa, Ermelinda Freitas, Horácio Simões, José Maria da Fonseca, SIVIPA, Venâncio da Costa Lima e Xavier Santana. Together, they make up 98% of the wine. There is still another recently popular one Herdade de Rio Frio.

Although decreasing, the dimension of cultivated land is a measure for a wine’s success: 23350 acres (in 2000) became 23227 (in 2013). It’s the 6th biggest producer, the 4th biggest exporter and, as per the CVR, sales increase has been “excellent”.

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Península de Setúbal in www.vinhosdapeninsuladesetubal.pt

In the year 2000, 12,622 hectolitres of Moscatel de Setúbal were produced, while in 2013 production came to 14,298. The nectars certified by Palmela have increased from 19,286 (in 2000) to 24,622 (in 2013). The Regional Península de Setúbal jumped from 110,818 (in 2000) to 245,558 (in 2013).

Producers, from 2000 to 2013, grew from 92 to 128. There were nine for Moscatel de Setúbal and now there are 12. Purple Moscatel had four and now six.

When it comes to success, I think we have made that clear. If the “9” are responsible for 98%, this means they are the drivers for the smaller producers who focus on niche-markets. I like Herdade do Portocarro best of all for their amazing wines Cavalo Maluco (Crazy Horse) and Anima (Latin for ‘soul’) – in West Alentejo.

A few years ago, I visited a producer in the region because of a programme for RTP television channel and, when pointing to a vine of red grapes, I asked the image specialist:

  • Do you know what species this is?

He replied that he didn’t.

  • It’s castelão.

I might have had a 95% chance of getting it right… the farmer intervened:

  • Actually, it’s syrah.

For more than a century, the wines in the region “usually meant” castelão. Others appeared, but this variety persevered; 70% consists of red species.

What, then, makes this 2-in-1 region special? A mix of freshness and heat from Alentejo sand and air. The freshness comes from the Setúbal Peninsula, from locations that may be higher and may contain more clay (Serra da Arrábida) and from winds that run through the Tejo and Sado estuaries. In West Alentejo, river Sado is near, pools of the deep-water rice plantations live about, the sea is close and the neighbouring pine forests give it some subtlety.

In my view, I would add palate, a subjective factor. These two regions are worth exploring. They have yet another advantage: prices are usually kind to the pocket. Besides, there are GREAT wines in the Setúbal Peninsula and in West Alentejo.

Herdade de Rio Frio White 2013 and Herdade de Rio Frio Red 2013

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

I am a nostalgic person. Otherwise, I would never have studied History. There is no future without a present, nor is there a present without a past. Time does not turn back, but we can take useful insight from what has been.

Lisbon – the capital and, therefore, the city with the most consumerism in the country – is very close to river Tejo, but this was not the only trait to dictate the abundance in wine on the left bank of that river. If a vineyard conquers almost 10,000 acres, it certainly isn’t an accident. Any fan of history must have a look online for a good read.

Herdade de Rio Frio – perhaps one of Portugal’s biggest rural territories (possibly once larger), with 13,000 acres – had the biggest vineyard in the world. Nowadays, it has 445 acres of new vineyards.

Business has changed in the last few decades. The world has changed. In the old days, quantity was the company’s highest priority. Nowadays, they invest more in the premium segment and in exporting. Oenology is in Mário Andrade’s hands.

We begun with a white and a red, both classified under Regionais Península de Setúbal (Regional of the Setúbal Peninsula) harvested in 2013. Later, we tried other nectars protected by the Denominação de Origem Controlada (Designation of Origin) from Palmela and, fortunately, Moscatel from Setúbal and Purple Moscatel from Setúbal.

Tasting these two wines gave me different impressions. Not in quality, but because of the totalitarian subjective monster that comes over me when I set out to write my opinion. This has to do with white wine – I will explain in a moment.

Herdade de Rio Frio red 2013 is enjoyable for those who like a wine that’s hot in character – am I making sense? – but leaves a fresh taste in the mouth. The wines in this plot of land are well known, although one a new kind is beginning to crop up in different regions to the Douro region: touriga franca.

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Herdade de Rio Frio red 2013 in www.rio-frio.eu

If you ask me, touriga franca is the best of Portuguese species of red grapes, explaining the Douro “phenomenon”. It isn’t a solo species, it’s “the team” that makes the game, drives the players, gets the ball back in the field, travels back to defend and counter attacks. It makes up 30% of this wine. Syrah has produced many good tastings in Alentejo and the area surrounding Herdade de Rio Frio is hot, it represents another 30%. Merlot has surprised me with a brilliant 40%.

Herdade de Rio Frio white 2013 in www.rio-frio.eu

But Herdade de Rio Frio white 2013 suffers from a “pathogenic element” called antão vaz. When the species is so popular and its wines are complimented on so much, it may be my vision blurring, but here I am expressing my thoughts.

Oenologists have come to realise that anything “abominable” will be improved by adding some arinto – to me, the best Portuguese white grapes – keeping “it” lively and polite. This wine was made with antao vaz (30%), arinto (30%), fernão pires (20%) and verdelho (20%) – a team of hot and cool. Balanced wine.

I have a friend who swears that the best Vodka-Vermouth is made as follows: pour vermouth into a glass and drain it. Pour vodka into the same glass and drink. This is what antao vaz is to me… maybe more so. I do realise I have been drinking good wines, such as antao vaz, and they all have one thing in common: you don’t taste the bad reputation.

What disappointed me in this wine was its excessive heat, although in general I enjoyed it. I might be hypersensitive… I acknowledge that it must be my problem and not the world’s. Those who like this kind of grape will find this most pleasing.
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Contacts
Sociedade Agrícola de Rio Frio S.A.
Herdade de Rio Frio
2955-014 Pinhal Novo
Tel: (+351) 212 319 661
Fax: (+351) 212 319 629
E-mail: riofrio@rio-frio.eu
Website: www.rio-frio.eu

Wine is a friend; a psychiatrist is a psychiatrist

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

For reasons I don’t need to mention, I have undergone face-to-face therapy and psychoanalysis. My experience doesn’t suit that joke about the patient that talks so much – which may be the case with many other people – that he puts the physician to sleep, makes them yawn or zone out and think about their shopping list.

Absolutely not. My therapist, who will remain anonymous, is the best in the world! Not that I have seen every psychoanalyst in the world, but because it’s the truth. And the truth is the truth – it’s undeniable, even if members of an investigation suggest otherwise. Like mothers: “the best in the world!”

Any good therapist will know what I mean. It helps to have somebody – who is not a part of the family or in our circle of friends, nor a work-colleague – to give us non-binding advice and acts as our mirror, asking us questions and making us think.

Whoever said that depression, nervous breakdowns or addictions cannot be (partly or entirely) healed with the help of a specialist has no idea what they are talking about. Some say that those are typical problems among rich people, lazy people or fools, etc.

No! No! And No! But one thing is for certain: you cannot be cured after five sessions. It’s expensive. But expensive is subjective. If you have a specific illness and your treatment costs a lot of money, that money never comes into the equation. However, it will be a significant sum. Each to their own pocket and each psychologist to their own price-per-appointment.

Psychologists will never replace family or friends. Although a strong emotional and affective bond is made, the psychologist is a specialised professional.

Besides, friends are like wine. I am using “wine” throughout this piece because it’s how I’m linked to Blend, but I should really be saying “alcohol”. Friends are supportive but they don’t help you heal. It’s the same with wine. A party without wine is an instant bore – of course some people overdo it and some people, because of alcoholism, can’t even touch it.

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in pt.forwallpaper.com

Wine is joyful, it unleashes us, breaks the ice and makes us laugh. Don’t you enjoy have a chat with four friends? “Me, my friend and two glasses.” I think getting drunk, now and again, can be a good thing. As long as it’s only now-and-again, and as long as that you don’t get behind the wheel or go near heavy-duty machines afterwards.

We may have friends or mates in the workplace, but work is one thing and friends will be friends. In our job, we are trying to fulfil a mission, which we get paid for every month.

What I wrote above about “hygienic” inebriation is completely questionable and deemed reprehensible by many. It’s not a dogma. A friend who lends a shoulder to cry on or a cheerful hug can be just as clumsy a solution as over-drinking, despite the generosity.

Does wine help you forget? It may get some weight off, but it won’t erase your memory. Wine can throw a party? – Certainly not on its own. Wine, for an oenophile like me, is a friend. It’s not a spouse, though; it’s not the one you share your bed with, or your table, chores and bills.

Many doctors say that a glass of wine with meals (or just the one meal) is good for you. They always recommend a red, so I suspect it must be some kind of particle on the skin. If so, maybe grapes are healthier.

Another problem – a very serious one and a gateway to alcoholism – is to quench your thirst with wine. Alcohol, besides the fact that it creates all sorts of states of mind, is bad if taken in excess – whether in the short or in the long term. Furthermore, it dehydrates.

Water is the best thirst-quenching drink. You can’t beat it. Water is the best drink in the world. Wine can turn out to be a good friend or bad company; it’s a friend, it doesn’t fix the problem. To fix things, what you need is water and a psychologist.

Hail recession!

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

To whom are good quality producers selling their wine? First of all: what makes a good producer? In that universe, I include those who take great care, pride and determination in what they do. They hire oenologists (in-house or otherwise) and maybe consultants who oversee production and have all the necessary equipment.

This universe accommodates a lot of wine makers in every region, who create different styles at various prices. I hear people say that, nowadays, there is no such thing as bad wine in Portugal. That’s a lie!

If 95% of the wine sold in Portugal costs less than five euros, only by chance could it possibly be good quality. Price does not tell you how bad a wine is, but it doesn’t do the opposite either. The problem with averages works for wine as it does for chickens: I ate one chicken, you ate none; between the two of us, each ate half a bird.

The average gets thrown off by low-priced wine (costing one euro or so). You can’t make a profit out of a high-standard product and then sell it for pennies, i.e. the one euro and a bit that it costs in the shop. The country is full of individual producers, companies and cooperatives that make bad wine. Some of that wine gets distilled, some of it never goes through the accountant and the rest is exported to markets where expats would die for a taste of home and where quality standards are low.

I might be pushing it a little by saying that the limit for those quality standards is three euros. I ask the wine-aware reader to avoid wine shops and look around local shops and supermarkets like Minipreço, Pingo Doce or Lidl to see what is out there. There is a lot of wine and, if you ask an employee about how much and how fast a specific wine gets sold, you will see a world you had never imagined.

Portuguese people don’t like to spend money on wine. It has low-value as a product; it’s not essential… Like with mothers: children always prefer their dog to their mother! Why? – you ask. Because mum is always there; we often only learn to appreciate her once she is very old or has left her body.

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Wine © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

I ask of the wine connoisseur to ask friends – those who drink the wine that the connoisseur takes to rendezvous – how much they would be willing to pay for a bottle. In this case, I mean the Portuguese universe and not the small niche of oenophiles, their beneficiaries and those with plenty of euro to spare.

There is no lack of bad wine around. Sadly, the bag-in-box is now bad-in-box. I cannot get the picture out of my head. If anybody tries to fill a bag with wine of reasonable quality, all they get is a bad reputation. Those boxes are here to replace the demi-john.

The wandering oenophile should step out of the wine tourism spots and cute shops with a nice decor. He should look for “vinho do produtor” (producer wine) – that pure nectar, perhaps intoxicated with plant drugs. Buy it and drink it – it’s good. it’s also educational to “calibrate your palate”.

Do you need some examples? The Port in Minipreço costs three euro something… do you reckon it’s any good? Well, it has been approved. A monumental shame. Or other supermarket own-brands like Lidl or Pingo Doce. Besides those, wine from Continente has no criminal record.

A lot of bad wine is made by expert producers. Although, signing contract worth many thousands for pennies can only result in rests of the rests – easily-discarded remains. You can’t have it all! If a distribution chain wants a discount, they can’t expect high quality,

If a country doesn’t take pride in its wine – although, according to vox pop, we have the best in the world – and doesn’t pay the fair price, why not show them the door. I would certainly say that the best thing to happen to good producers was recession.

Imagine the (many) producers making good wine and having to borrow customers from competitors – “you take my business, I’ll take the next one’s” – but are also hoodwinked by non-paying distributors or restaurant owners. To them, the recession was a winning lottery ticket.

They spend more money anyway. It means more work and less hours of sleep, but at least their work is acknowledged and some customers are willing to pay more – the fair price.

To the table, “Barely Clothed” – Pouca Roupa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

Some phrases are just so funny, and we hear them so often that we hardly ever think about what they really mean… For instance “A close cut with Campo de Ourique” (similar to “By the skin of your teeth”) is a referral to a seaquake in 1755, that almost went up the hill in Campo de Ourique. This phrase is enough; I am not here to write a book.

In the world of cuisine – out of which I focus solely on wine or other drinks – there are equally useful expressions and, when in a rush to find the right words, a few often drown.

My favourite expression is “pool wine”. What an image – even if it isn’t a pool filled with actual wine. The heat, the sun, family and friends… Just grand! But… Does any of us own a pool or even know anybody with a private pool?

I’m afraid I don’t have a pool – personal misfortune. Another good scene for wine is after the beach, when the ladies wrap themselves up in cloths of washed-out colours and men pull a pullover over their heads and then contort to the sound of the rough salt, cotton and hair put together.

Stretched out on the terrace chairs – everything is allowed while on holiday – watching the sun set into the sea, drinking “a wine for the end of a day at the beach”. Just grand! But… Can any of us bear a glass of wine between leaving the sand and walking into our home? Well, besides the driving issues… At the dinner table, It’s a different story. But “a wine for the end of a day at the beach”?

Anyway – “Pool wine” and “a wine for the end of a day at the beach” are amazing phrases. Why do they come about? Well, the new wine collection by João Portugal Ramos is out, of course. It’s a must!

Pouca Roupa, or “Barely Clothed”! Two words to shorten what already was short. “Pool wine” and “a wine for the end of a day at the beach”. I confess, when I first heard about Pouca Roupa, I dreamt up a whole range: Bikini (bi-varietal), Monokini (single cast), Trikini (three, of course)… As for G-string and trunks, well… And then Nudity, once it’s empty.

What hides behind this brand and its shades of black, white and pink? It does get straight to the point: an easy catch. All of them, some happier, some not as happy – all to be expected. All three are Regional Alentejano and come from the 2014 harvest.

Pouca Roupa red 2014

Pouca Roupa red 2014 is seasoned with Dão… OK, touriga nacional. Touriga nacional belongs to the world, which means it also belongs to Alentejo, where it takes up a lot of land. The field blend also includes alfrocheiro and alicante bouschet.

Here is what I have to say: 14% alcohol is too much. As long as the acidity takes on the alcohol, our body doesn’t care. If we think “barely clothed”, the alcohol proof is high. I would only point my finger at the alcohol proof. Otherwise, it is quite pleasant.

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Pouca Roupa white 2014

Pouca Roupa white 2014 is a different kind of Alentejo wine, with Viosinho, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdelho grapes composing a symphony to our senses. Once again, good acidity and good with light meals. I bow to its 12.5% alcohol.

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Pouca Roupa Rosé 2014

Pouca Roupa Rosé 2014 was made from touriga nacional, aragonês and cabernet sauvignon grapes. Greedy! The acidity is more than enough for its 13% alcohol. Although, “barely clothed” in mind, this seems like a slightly exaggerated proof.

All we have to do now is hope that Spring is gentle and that the Summer is a good friend; that the time for pleasure does not mean a bad time for the crops. My first recommendation went to a friend with a pool.

Contacts
João Portugal Ramos Vinhos S.A.
Vila Santa
7100-149 Estremoz
Portugal
Tel.: (+351) 268 339 910
Fax.: (+351) 268 339 918
E-mail: info@grandesvinhos.com
Website: www.jportugalramos.com

To the table, "Barely Clothed" – Pouca Roupa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

Some phrases are just so funny, and we hear them so often that we hardly ever think about what they really mean… For instance “A close cut with Campo de Ourique” (similar to “By the skin of your teeth”) is a referral to a seaquake in 1755, that almost went up the hill in Campo de Ourique. This phrase is enough; I am not here to write a book.

In the world of cuisine – out of which I focus solely on wine or other drinks – there are equally useful expressions and, when in a rush to find the right words, a few often drown.

My favourite expression is “pool wine”. What an image – even if it isn’t a pool filled with actual wine. The heat, the sun, family and friends… Just grand! But… Does any of us own a pool or even know anybody with a private pool?

I’m afraid I don’t have a pool – personal misfortune. Another good scene for wine is after the beach, when the ladies wrap themselves up in cloths of washed-out colours and men pull a pullover over their heads and then contort to the sound of the rough salt, cotton and hair put together.

Stretched out on the terrace chairs – everything is allowed while on holiday – watching the sun set into the sea, drinking “a wine for the end of a day at the beach”. Just grand! But… Can any of us bear a glass of wine between leaving the sand and walking into our home? Well, besides the driving issues… At the dinner table, It’s a different story. But “a wine for the end of a day at the beach”?

Anyway – “Pool wine” and “a wine for the end of a day at the beach” are amazing phrases. Why do they come about? Well, the new wine collection by João Portugal Ramos is out, of course. It’s a must!

Pouca Roupa, or “Barely Clothed”! Two words to shorten what already was short. “Pool wine” and “a wine for the end of a day at the beach”. I confess, when I first heard about Pouca Roupa, I dreamt up a whole range: Bikini (bi-varietal), Monokini (single cast), Trikini (three, of course)… As for G-string and trunks, well… And then Nudity, once it’s empty.

What hides behind this brand and its shades of black, white and pink? It does get straight to the point: an easy catch. All of them, some happier, some not as happy – all to be expected. All three are Regional Alentejano and come from the 2014 harvest.

Pouca Roupa red 2014

Pouca Roupa red 2014 is seasoned with Dão… OK, touriga nacional. Touriga nacional belongs to the world, which means it also belongs to Alentejo, where it takes up a lot of land. The field blend also includes alfrocheiro and alicante bouschet.

Here is what I have to say: 14% alcohol is too much. As long as the acidity takes on the alcohol, our body doesn’t care. If we think “barely clothed”, the alcohol proof is high. I would only point my finger at the alcohol proof. Otherwise, it is quite pleasant.

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Pouca Roupa white 2014

Pouca Roupa white 2014 is a different kind of Alentejo wine, with Viosinho, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdelho grapes composing a symphony to our senses. Once again, good acidity and good with light meals. I bow to its 12.5% alcohol.

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Pouca Roupa Rosé 2014

Pouca Roupa Rosé 2014 was made from touriga nacional, aragonês and cabernet sauvignon grapes. Greedy! The acidity is more than enough for its 13% alcohol. Although, “barely clothed” in mind, this seems like a slightly exaggerated proof.

All we have to do now is hope that Spring is gentle and that the Summer is a good friend; that the time for pleasure does not mean a bad time for the crops. My first recommendation went to a friend with a pool.

Contacts
João Portugal Ramos Vinhos S.A.
Vila Santa
7100-149 Estremoz
Portugal
Tel.: (+351) 268 339 910
Fax.: (+351) 268 339 918
E-mail: info@grandesvinhos.com
Website: www.jportugalramos.com

More «generous» than the others

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

I confess I don’t get the need to differentiate wines in «generous» (fortified) and liqueur when they’re practically the same. The difference isn’t subtle, for the terms differentiate nobility from common people. The «generous» wines are produced in DOCs while the liqueur are labeled IPR or just table wine.

It’s not really quite like that. «Generous» are the Porto, Madeira, Setúbal and Carcavelos wines. Obviously, there are simple liqueur wines that are better than some fortified.

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Península de Setúbal wine

Ignoring the semantics – because «all» the wine is «generous» – it matters to point out the ability that the Portuguese possess to produce these nectars. The process is «simple», that’s why there are multiple imitations – almost all with malice -, but it’s not like boiling eggs. The Port wine is the obvious victim. A fate that only reinforces its importance.

There are those who classify the late harvest wines – foremost examples are the Tokaji (Tokay, in former nomenclature) and the Sauterne – as «generous». Mistakenly, as far as I see, because the methods are distinct. I’m neither academic nor oenologist, so in this discussion, I’ll refrain myself, and I’ll even recognize that it’s a pickiness.

To each mouth, its judgment! To each nose, ditto. In the wonderful world of wine fit grape varieties and regions, which sometimes are nearly the same thing. From the washed-out white to the darkest, there are nectars that we prefer.

Of all, the «generous» fascinate me (liqueur included), they are capable of everything. From appetizer to dessert, starter or conversation’s companion. In this rectangle of mainland and both autonomous archipelagos there’s a multiplicity of genres.

The personalities come from the grapes, locations, and men’s practices. Somebody wrote, in the XIX century, that there are as many Porto wine varieties as there are ribbons on a haberdasher. The IVDP’s website itself does not make reference to all its varieties… now, the Madeira, I think its study is sort of like a Degree.

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Madeira wine

I’ve got a very special affection by the Carcavelos wine, a monument that Lisbon city – in its metropolitan dimension – eroded, leaving next to nothing to do. The demarcation encompasses parts of the Oeiras and Cascais municipalities. There are at most five estates that are fit to produce this wine near the sea. One of them is in charge of public authorities – Oeiras City Hall and the Agriculture Ministry – and the others live in a silent darkness.

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Carcavelos wine

The municipality’s oenologist told me that, when they went forward with the idea of producing Carcavelos wine it was impossible to find a conducting wire. After the many bottles that they tasted, each producer had its own style.

On the one hand it’s good, because it opens up the window to fantasy: «What might it have been? How good it would be if… Ah! If I could… ». On the other hand, it’s depressing because it’s a collection impossible to recuperate. Five or six estates cannot draw the painting.

The Carcavelos wine is some sort of Iberian lynx or brown bear. But political power through public entities’ actions, can interpose in its conservation. The Agricultural Ministry gives the land and the Oeiras Municipality does the job.

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Porto Wine

There’s no such thing as the «best wine on earth»… but generally speaking, we have two of the greatest wines of the world: Porto and Madeira. Woefully unknown to the majority of Portuguese people. One of the many idiosyncrasies…