Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

I had planned to write about only three Dão wines, but pulled by the current, I made an addition, because the region started off well, then weakened, and is currently (still) being reborn. I end where I wish I had begun.

Quality has improved, and it does justice to Nature and to human skills, because Dão is one of the best wine regions in Portugal. By listing the region’s virtues and ugliness, I will provide three examples that illustrate my thoughts exactly. Dão Sul, Sogrape and Casa de Mouraz. Any of the above knows that success and victories never happen by chance. One I describe in black and white, the other two in colour.

In colour: when, in 2004, I started working on the TV show “Da Terra Ao Mar” (From Earth to Sea) – on Sundays at 11am, RTP 2 – one of the first reports was about Casa de Mouraz. A young couple had recently moved from Lisbon to plow a vineyard biologically; these days, it’s biodynamic. They had 10 acres; today, Sara Dionísio and António Lopes Ribeiro operate in more areas of the country, their heart still set on Dão.

In black and white: Dão Sul (Global Wines) was founded in 1989 and the region’s rebirth owes much to that company after it replaced the region on the map. Their strategy consists in ensuring extraordinary quality and a pocket-friendly price.

Quinta de Cabriz gained popularity among the masses. Its overwhelming success marked the arrival of grapes from other lands of that area, and the brand became simply Cabriz. Quinta dos Grilos – gossip says another producer was running it, although it belonged to someone else – was used to create a competitive dynamic. Another popular case, although not as visible. Now, it’s simply called “Grilos” for the above reason.

Unfortunately, the quality in Cabriz and in Grilos decayed. To make a big amount, and do it well, is almost like making the cycle square – extremely hard. Casa de Santar, which was once a lot more popular, met the same fate. However, hiring oenologist Osvaldo Amado has yielded better results. On a side note: Cabriz vinegar is excellent!

Global Wines doesn’t make only low-end wines. Paço dos Cunhas de Santar and Pedro & Inês – the latter evokes the tragic love story involving Prince Dom Pedro, later Pedro I of Portugal, and Dona Inês de Castro – are some of the best in the region.

Quinta dos Carvalhais – Photo Provided by Sogrape Vinhos, SA | All Rights Reserved

The original purpose was to tell the story of three wines by Quinta dos Carvalhais, property of Sogrape. It’s the biggest Portuguese company in the sector – a multinational family business – and it doesn’t sleep on the job. It makes world-class wines in Dão, and has created three “individuals”. Personality and, in a local term, terroir.

Quinta de Carvalhais – Photo Provided by Sogrape Vinhos, SA | All Rights Reserved

Touriga Nacional comes from Dão, and that regional variation offers a scent of violets. Lacking the aromatic caricature – a growing exaggeration in the region lately – its character proves quite polite. Quinta dos Carvalhais Touriga Nacional 2012 is educational; it truly expresses the variety and elegance that made its birthplace famous.

The yellowish nectar doesn’t fall far from the above; it results from the flashiest variety of that area – very refreshing and mineral. Quinta dos Carvalhais Encruzado 2013 will also educate on what a variety is and on what best Dão has to offer.

Quinta dos Carvalhais Encruzado 2013 – Photo Provided by Sogrape Vinhos, SA | All Rights Reserved

Quinta dos Carvalhais Touriga Nacional 2012 – Photo Provided by Sogrape Vinhos, SA | All Rights Reserved

Quinta dos Carvalhais Reserva Red 2010 – Photo Provided by Sogrape Vinhos, SA | All Rights Reserved

Portugal has a rule that wines must result from a blend of several varieties; however, the company website doesn’t reveal which varieties colour the wine. Quinta dos Carvalhais Reserva Red 2010 gathers the true character of the Dão region.

They feature something hard to find nowadays: longevity. They were made to last, but can be drunk immediately. Given the years ahead of them… buy a few bottles, drink some and save the rest. Make notes to compare and remember.

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

I started walking along the Dão, but because the roads are so long, I didn’t make it to my destination without taking a weeklong break. As I mentioned earlier, my second revelation was a party with many high-ranking officials.

That took place in 2010, when João Tavares de Pina threw an event attended by many producers of great quality wines. This farmer called it “Dão – The Next Big Thing”.

Dão Expressions in cvrdao.pt

I have nothing to teach the managers of Comissão Vitivinícola Regional do Dão (Dão Regional Viticulture Commission), but I think this moment should be repeated in order to create a wave of acknowledgement… perhaps with a contest, debates and international critics.

It was some rendezvous. A true gathering. A proper gathering, due to the variety and quality presented. If I did take notes, I can’t remember where I placed the list of all the producer’s details, but there were many. As with everything else, I have memorised some of them because I liked them.

One example was the wine by the host and organiser. The wines of Terra de Tavares; very vibrant, authentic, with a “terroir” character – this word is bound to become common due to constant usurping, which is not the case here.

Terras de Tavares, João Tavares de Pina – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Another great find were the wines by Casa de Darei, more elegant than the former, but also very special and true to their roots. But the greater spectacle happened in the quaint Clube de Viseu, in its ball room.

The best moment was when wines from Centro de Estudos Vitivinícolas do Dão (Centre for Dão Wine Growing Studies) were served. This centre is found in Quinta da Cal, in county Nelas. The old whites, namely those of 1980 and 1981, were fit as fiddles. Reds from the 70s felt even younger.

Solar do Vinho Dão (CVR Dão) cvrdao.pt

A good friend told me he drank a few “century-old” nectars by UDACA (“União Das Adegas Cooperativas da Região Demarcada do Dão”, Union of the Wine Growing Co-operatives of the Dão Demarcated Region), which made him rethink his earlier assertion that only liked young wines. Unfortunately, those make it down my throat.

My memory of Dão was formed almost of thin air, as I revealed in the first part of this trip down memory lane. Until very late, I only knew about old brands of Dão wines, such as Porta de Cavaleiros, Dão Pipas, Grão Vasco, Meia Encosta, São Domingos, Messias and Borges… I think that’s all.

Dão Expressions in cvrdao.pt

Once in the 90s decade, I was introduced to excellent nectars, boasting farm names where they grew, a natural process due to the decline of the region’s cooperatives. Since then, the list has expanded. Knowing I will be unfair by involuntary omission, I must cite – besides the already mentioned – red and white pearls: Quinta dos Roques, Quinta da Vegia, Quinta da Passarela, Paço dos Cunhas de Santar, Quinta de Carvalhais, Casa de Mouraz, Quinta da Falorca, Duque de Viseu, Pedra Cancela, Pedro & Inês, Quinta da Fata, Quinta de Saes, Quinta da Pellada, Quinta do Perdigão, Quinta de Carvalhais and… “Inexplicably” sorted by memory, not hierarchy.

As with everything else, there aren’t only wonders. Still, the darkness of it isn’t absolute either – fortunately. One day, embraced by the Dão charm, I stumbled upon a wine by Adega Cooperativa de Penalva do Castelo. It was a terrible experience. Emphasys on “was”. Currently, what that cooperative cellar has been producing makes up for its past.

I had a mentor in journalism who never tired of complimenting my ability to summarise. In these articles, though I don’t need to keep the news short… I’m not able to say everything I would like to say about Dão.

Please be patient, there’s more to come next week.

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

My father was an artist, a painter. To him, investors were a hybrid of people with Diogenes Syndrome and speculators. However, this didn’t apply to all.

To visit a museum with my father was as fascinating as it was boring. With captivating words, he pointed out what many didn’t even notice. Then, he would gaze at a piece to soak up as much information out of it as possible, and turned…

– Father, will you take long? Can we move on to the next room now?

My father has pieces in many museums, private galleries and with a collection of investors. What annoyed him wasn’t the money, but the dark vaults and post mortem speculation.

Pablo Picasso in web.guggenheim.org

My friend (father) Manuel Jorge told us about Pablo Picasso children destroying a lot of his work after the Andalusian died, so that the value went up. He was shocked by the cynicism, opportunism, disrespect for the artist and, mostly, for the man.

He divided the investors into two groups: those who publicly displayed their work and those who kept it in vaults. He was hurt mostly by the latter – hurt is the right word.

He convinced me… partly. There is a bit of roguery in buying and capturing unique products whose value or interest aren’t respected, and the added value is what matters. Those are the signature buyers.

The biggest investors are experts and/or people who consult specialists. Yet, there are frauds. Not counterfeit – that crime is easy to spot – but fakes, original work that convinces the eye of excited specialists.

The same happens with wine as it does with art. I have no reservations regarding the business – just like my father – I think I was clear. The business exists – full stop.

I have a friend who surfs the wine business. He doesn’t cheat at all, only does what any businessman wants to do: buy early to get the best price and sell when there is added value.

He isn’t the only one; it’s a simple process and you “only” need initial capital. He buys Bordeaux, Bourgogne en primeur (while still in the barrel) and gets rid of them when the rate is profitable. He saves one or two bottles for himself and keeps the rest of the earnings to buy future harvests.

This buddy of mine is a “good” investor; he enjoys what he buys and makes a profit out of it. The “evil” in other investors is in the eye of the beholder.

Whether they are “good” or “bad”, they look for good deals. It’s good to know that some Portuguese wines are considered safe investments.

Top 20 Performers in the Rest of the World Index in www.blog.liv-ex.com

The Live-ex Fine Wine 1000 index, in The Drinks Business magazine, has been low, but Taylor’s pushed the sub-index Rest of the World 50 up by 3.2%. The Bordeaux gained 1.1% in value.

Taylor’s Vintage Port 1994 in www.taylor.pt

The most expensive wine in Rest of the World 50 is a Taylor’s, just like the third, fourth, seventh and thirteenth. Unfortunately, there are no other Portuguese wines within the top 20. The Vintage Port of 1994 by Taylor’s has been leading, having risen by 41.4% between July and February. Number 13 on the list, a Taylor’s 2007, went up in value by 10.3%.

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