Blend All About Wine Arquivo de João Carvalho - Page 6 of 7

VZ, a brand with the history of Douro

May 25, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

In 1780, Van Zeller’s & Co was established as a Port wine company. They sold wine until 1930. During that time, the company was sold to another Port Wine group, having been rebought in 1933 by Luís de Vasconcellos Porto, who was, at the time, the owner of Quinta do Noval. This purchase made a generous offer for his grandchildren (children of his only daughter, Rita de Vasconcellos Porto, who was married to Cristiano van Zeller’s grandfather). Hence, Van Zeller’s & Co.’s several brands were merged with Quinta do Noval, just as “Van Zellers” and “VZ” were.

In 1980, a decision was made to revive Van Zeller’s & Co., making it independent from Quinta do Noval, giving it its own land and stocks of Port Wine. This wish was, however, put on standby when Quinta do Noval was sold to AXA, and Van Zeller’s & Co. was sold to the owners of Quinta de Roriz, who were cousins of Cristiano van Zeller’s. Time went by and only in 2006 were Van Zeller’s & Co. and all its brands handed to Cristiano van Zeller – also the result of a generous offer by a family member.

The new wines quickly emerged in the market, firstly a high-end VZ Douro white 2006, whose grapes – (Viozinho, Rabigato, Codega and Gouveio) aged on average between 50 and 80 years – come from Murça. This VZ Douro 2013 is a beautiful white, fermented, and aged in casks for 9 months, including a battonage by a team of luxury oenologists: Cristiano van Zeller, Sandra Tavares da Silva and Joana Pinhão. It results in a characterful tasting, the Douro very well outlined, standing out from a mix, weaving and involving it with light toasted notes from the cask, and fruit (peach, citrus, pear), cohesive, serious, marked by a lasting mineral finish. The description above equally suits the wine’s passage through the palate: a very good presence, ample, with light mineral austerity in the background. The total blend suggests consuming straight away or saving it in the rack for a few years.

Contacts
Lemos & van Zeller, Lda.
Rua de Gondarém, 1427 – 2º Dt. Ala Norte
4150-380 Porto
PORTUGAL
Telef. +351 223744320
Fax. +351 223744322
E-mail:

Website: www.quintavaledonamaria.com

The two Arinto wines by Marquês de Marialva

May 18, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

Following an earlier article, which focused on the topic of white wines produced in Portugal, I shall now highlight two beautiful examples from Bairrada. In an introductory manner, I must say that everybody knows oenologist Osvaldo Amado feels passionate about the Arinto variety; he has felt this way since he worked in the Bucelas region. Now that he has settled in Bairrada, he often introduces his customers to various interesting examples by several producers he works for.

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One thing is for certain: the Arinto variety is spread across the Portuguese territory, from Alentejo to Vinho Verde, where they call it Pedernã. However, the best region for it is Bucelas (Lisbon), because although some producers of that region are noted for the quality of their wines, they don’t seem to make much of a stir.

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Going back to the main topic, these two wines made by Adega de Cantanhede from Arinto varitey in Bairrada have briefly been put in wooden casks as part of Osvaldo Amado’s competent care. The first is Marquês de Marialva Reserva Arinto 2013, winner of the 4^th Competition of Bairrada Wines and Sparkling Wines. 30% of its share fermented in new casks, which results in a captivating wine, given the combination of fresh fruit (lime, grapefruit) with a hint of vegetable, in a very stark profile embraced by the slightly oily feeling the wood conveys. Rather tense and mineral in depth, this wine slips pleasantly and tastefully through the mouth. A medium body, not as vigorous as the nose tasting suggested, but quite refreshing and with a dry finish.

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The Marquês de Marialva Arinto Grand Reserva 2012 is the new top-of-the-range white by Adega de Cantanhede, and was only bottled in 2014. A broad glass is recommended, because this wine likes to stretch its legs while unwrapping its charms, bonding with you straight away. It shows that it has been in a cask, but the fruit is what affects you most – scented and very fresh, very well outlined with hints of lemon, lime and jellied orange. Broad, with great complexity, captivating you with every twirl in the glass, the variety always present. In the mouth, it’s cohesive, ample and fresh, with a slightly oily touch embracing a body of fresh and juicy albeit delicate fruit, with a soft mineral austerity in the background – a pleasure, no doubt.

Contacts
Adega Cooperativa de Cantanhede, C.R.L.
Rua Eng. Amaro da Costa, Nº117
3060-170 Cantanhede Bairrada – Portugal
Tel: (+351) 231 419 540
Fax: (+351) 231 420 768
E-Mail: geral@cantanhede.com
Website: www.cantanhede.com

Fish + White Wine = Portugal

May 15, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

Portugal is currently the country with the greatest annual intake of fish per person in the European Union, and the third in the world after Iceland and Japan. In fact, Portugal can brag about having the best fish in the world swim in its waters; this fact is acknowledged by some of the best Chefs de Cuisine all over the world. Everybody knows that noble examples of our fish are flown out to restaurants worldwide. As far as consumption goes, one must eat consciously and, thus, sustainably, which is the only way to keep a balanced maritime food chain.

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Ciência Viva has published a catalogue titled “The most popular species in the Portuguese Sea”, where they present the main species of fish of greater economical interest, which make their way from the Portuguese sea to our table. In total, twenty species of fish were selected, three types of cephalopod, three bivalve and three crustacean. For each species presented, their main morphological features, such as habitat, etc. For all of those interested, the catalogue is available here for free.

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Well, if the Portuguese call the shots when it comes to fish, in white wine we are starting a buzz. Besides, these days Portugal undoubtedly offers the best whites around – whether in profile or in quality – to accompany fish at the table. Mankind thinks with the stomach; a fact that relates regional cuisine to the wine produced in the same area. Just think about it: the best combinations are cuisine plus wine of a specific region. Regarding white wine, the leap in quality that Portugal has seen in the last two decades has made all of this possible. Furthermore, these days, there must be no better pair for our fish than our wine, Portuguese Wine.

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One example is Allo 2014, created in Quinta de Soalheiro (Vinho Verde), and the product of the plot of land between Alvarinho and Loureiro. While the Alvarinho variety gives it the structure and vigour, the Loureiro variety contributes with all its exuberance. This results in an addictive wine with only 11% alcohol, but if you relax, the next thing you know is the bottle is empty. It is a proper terrace wine, with a scent of summer, suggesting seafood or, as we had, oven-roasted Red Snappers, combined with all the freshness of aromas and flavours, and an invigorating acidity that will cleanse your palate completely as well as make you take another sip. For more on Quinta de Solheiro and its wines see here.

Contacts
Ciência Viva – Agência Nacional para a Cultura Científica e Tecnológica
Parque das Nações, Alameda dos Oceanos Lote 2.10.01, 1990-223 Lisboa, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 21 898 50 20 / 21 891 71 00
Fax: (+351) 21 898 50 55 / 21 891 71 71
Website: www.cienciaviva.pt

Quinta de Soalheiro
Alvaredo . Melgaço
4960-010 Alvaredo
Tel: (+351) 251 416 769
Fax: (+351) 251 416 771
Email: quinta@soalheiro.com
Website: www.soalheiro.com

Quinta do Ortigão, from Bairrada to the World

May 11, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

Bairrada looks different. In the kingdom of the Baga grape, winds of change begin to blow as part of the new producers veer away from the more traditional register, which may, in turn, have driven away many wine consumers in the region. In fact, the more classic profile of Bairrada doesn’t always charm you right from the start. Most of the time, it needs to be kept for a while, which usually is not what consumers these days have in mind. Someone who buys a wine wants to enjoy it as much and as immediately as possible. Therefore, there is a demand for ready-to-drink wines, whose profile is more in tune with the modern times, and all this without tampering with the region’s identity/image.

Presently, few producers are proud of preserving that classic profile which brought the region its fame, while others endeavour by taking their wines down a path of different scents and flavours, and betting on grape varieties renowned worldwide, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as the more traditional Bical, Arinto, Maria Gomes and Baga.

The brand ‘Quinta do Ortigão’ emerged in early 2001 when the family made a decision. Taking knowledge that goes back three generations, they enhanced their business with a modern cellar of decent size. I had the opportunity to taste this producer’s last two releases. Their wines are created by renowned oenologist Osvaldo Amado.

Quinta do Ortigão Arinto/Bical 2014 Ortigão Reserva 2010

Quinta do Ortigão Arinto/Bical 2014 wine proves to be very precise in its aromas, highlighting the fruit, which is revealed ripe and clean; citrus, white-pulp fruit, floral scent mixing in with a hint of mineral that dominates the entire background. In itself, it’s very enjoyable. In the palate, however, it becomes even more convincing and delightful, its freshness enhanced and maintaining a firm structure. The perfect pair for, say, a spaghetti marinara.

Once we taste Ortigão Reserva 2010, we no longer have a Bairrada, but a Regional Beira Atlântico;. It aged in new Portuguese oak casks for 9 months. The result is a very tempting wine – inviting and easy to like. Everything is in its right place; nothing stands out and nothing is out of context. Ripe striking fruit slightly rounded by the wood. With its beautiful complexity, it ads yet a light pinch of something vegetable, accompanied by spices in the background. In the mouth, the potential for food is revealed in the first sip; a healthy small speck of austerity, and fruit exploding in a long finish with a good dose of spices, where freshness makes its mark. It pleased everyone at the table, making an especially strong bond with the classic Shepherd’s Pie.

For more Quinta do Ortigão wines check Ilkka’s Sírén’s previous article here.

Contacts
Apartado 119, 3780-227 Anadia
Tel: (+351) 231 503 209
E-mail: allemos@quintadoortigao.com
Facebook: facebook.com/Quinta-do-Ortigão
Site: www.quintadoortigao.com

Maçanita – Siblings and Oenologists

May 4, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

After Sarah Ahmed‘s article about oenologist António Maçanita, here, I would now like to highlight a project shared by António and his sister, Joana Maçanita, also an oenologist, in Douro Valley. Joana and António have shared a dream for a long time of creating a wine together, which would reveal both their characters and personalities; a “Maçanita style” wine, whose fruity character is the predominant note. The opportunity came in 2011, in the Douro region, where part of Joana’s work is set.

For now, let us focus on Maçanita wines. The three vineyards they are grown from were carefully picked to fit the ideal wine profile in the eyes of the siblings. Henrique and Sebastião vines are in Douro, which is a sub-region of Cima Corgo, close to Pinhão, where the species Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz come from, to create Maçanita red 2013. 50% of the wine ages for 8 months in new French oak casks. This results in a wine that harmoniously combines freshness with the presence of fruit – very plump and juicy, showing a good presence. It doesn’t exhibit a strong complexity, also because in this wine, the fruit is the most dominant, with a slight feel of the wood it passed through in the background. In the mouth, it’s fresh, present from the beginning with distinctive fruit, some rounding that counters the slight austerity revealed in the end, between fruits and spices; its talent for food suggests a meaty meal in the oven.

The white, I would say, was a beautiful and refreshing surprise. Also of the 2013 harvest, it comes from near Régua, in Poiares, where Vinha da Margarida sits over 2000 feet high, growing Viosinho, Gouveio and Malvasia Fina grapes. It passes only through cool inox; somewhat tense, but clean, with well-defined aromas centred on the grape species and not digressive. Some citrus notes harmonise with floral scents, which make it very attractive along with its enfolding freshness. In the palate, it’s convincing and captivating. The acidity wraps the mouth in a great harmony between fruit and flowers, and distinctive minerality to finish.

Contacts
Quinta da Poça 5085-201 Covas do Douro Pinhão
Tel: (+351) 213 147 297 / 919 247 318
Fax: (+351) 213 643 018
Email: geral@macanita.com
Website: www.macanita.com

Quinta de Covela – the new wines of 2014

April 27, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

On the 22^nd April, Quinta de Covela came to Lisbon to present their wines harvested in 2014. The tasting of the single-species and the Quinta da Covela rosé was held in one of Lisbon’s icons in cuisine, Cervejaria Ramiro. Following an introduction by viticulturer Gonçalo Sousa Lopes and oenologist Rui Cunha, we were guided by the entire team. 2014 was a very good year; it rained at the right time, alternating with heat, which slowed the ageing of the grapes down and, I dare say, perfectly. The result is out: refreshing wines of very defined, crystal clear scents and flavours, and a natural inclination to be served with food. Demand for these wines is on the rise, while its current production is still low, given the necessary replantation because of the bad state in which about 40% of the vineyard was found.

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First of all, there was a mano a mano between the Covela Avesso Edição Nacional, of the 2013 harvest (magnum bottle) and that of 2014. The difference was a more serious and cohesive Avesso 2013, much fatter fruit (citrus and apple) with undefined aroma, of a slightly austere combination in the mouth and a dry aftertaste.

Covela Edição Nacional Avesso 2014 shone with very pure, almost crystal-clear aromas, a very floral and perfumed touch, the fruit in the spotlight; very refreshing and charismatic, and somewhat mineral in the background. This cohesive combination is full of life, has a lively mouth and a very tasty, dry aftertaste, which goes well with food, which was to be served next: the wine proved quite graceful together with Amêijoas À Bulhão Pato (Bulhão Pato-style clams).

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The next wine reveals an Arinto-like tone; very austere and energetic, this new Covela Arinto Edição Nacional 2014. It is very refreshing within such a new combination. The base is citrusy with some floral, although the whole mix still needs some more time. For now, the mineral tone in the background is the most enhanced feature thanks to the energy it creates in the mouth. This white has a good athletic build, while being quite less playful with aromas than Avesso. In this case, perhaps more substantial meals are in order, as was proven with Gambas al Ajillo (Ajillo-style prawns).

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Another new product is Covela Rosé 2014, made from Touriga Nacional, which is prematurely harvested especially to make this wine. A successful case and one of the best rosés made in Portugal, its winning features being youth, freshness and gentleness; very detailed scents and flavours, a delicate floral with that remarkable freshness. A balanced fruit-acidity palate and a pleasant presence, maintaining that dry aftertaste in the mouth, which revives the palate and makes for great potential in cuisine.

Contacts
LIMA SMITH Lda.
Quinta de Covela,
S. Tomé de Covelas
4640-211 BAIÃO
Tel: (+351) 254 886 298
E-mail: info@covela.pt
Website: www.covela.pt

Taberna Ó Balcão, a wild feast of scents and flavours by Chef Rodrigo Castelo

April 20, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

A typical tavern since the 40s, after appropriate remodelling, Taberna Ó Balcão was opened in 2013 and is owned by Chef Rodrigo Castelo, born in Santarém. He was a bullfighter for more than a decade in Aposento da Moita and briefly worked in the Pharmaceutical industry, but his true passion since he was a child was cooking. Thus, his project was born – a breath of fresh air for the city, crowned with the Revelation Award at Tejo Gourmet – 5^th Competition in Delicacies and Tejo Wines.

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This place is friendly; we feel surrounded by memories of a distant past, in an amusing décor inspired by old taverns of stone-top tables. With only a few free seats, this place is close to becoming a cult restaurant – the kind that know how to serve and make us feel comfortable up until the real feast. Because that is chef Rodrigo’s kitchen, shining above everything else.

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This inspired kitchen respects local produce, invoking taste at its simplest. The menu has as much variety as it has taste. Rodrigo Castelo explains how one can recreate regional meals while respecting produce and the original recipe even more so. That is what he does, and to an excellent result, because he does not add anything but his own special touch to a quality product. This usually results in very high levels of satisfaction and quality.

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The chef presented us with an entire lunch, a true wild feast of scents and flavours. It started with delicious Oxtail Croquettes – shredded meat and excellent seasoning – followed by Quail Thighs with a reduction of fortified wine – tender and juicy. The entrée was Rabbit in Pickling Brine, with a two-day old pickling brine, very finely shredded rabbit and a slice of dehydrated apple to garnish – very good contrast. The first main course was fish. I congratulate the River Fish Soup With Roe; very fresh. The fish in the spotlight, the herbs and soft spice to regulate, and the roe to add body. The highlight of the meal was Large Mullet Loin with River Cockle Rice. Ribatejo large mullet is in the grey mullet family and fries very well. Its loins were breaded in a crunchy crust, leaving a juicy and tasty interior. The River Cockles were less salty and of a lower calibre. They revealed a delicate flavour and tasted excellent alongside the fish. To cleanse the palate, we were served a shot of Tangerine with Sichuan pepper. It did an efficient job of handing the stage over to the meat.

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Comforting and delicate are my adjectives for the Bone Soup – a velvety soup with just the right flavours of notable palate; an excellent reinterpretation and another great moment. Next, the Steer Lombeta (a small cut of meat between the hand and the chest) with a reduction of the Juices in coloured mustard and sweet potato; sliced, very tender and flavoured. Lastly, Alentejo-style steer stew, with no stock or potato, as they do in Alentejo.

In the end, you get the feeling of a great experience, simple food of regional flavour, with chef Rodrigo Castelo’s notorious touch. A place to visit and to remember; it has everything it takes to become an icon of this city and of the entire region. The staff get an A for always being friendly and attentive.

Contacts
Taberna Ó Balcão
Rua Pedro Santarém 23
2000-223 SANTARÉM
Tel: (+351) 243 055 883
E-mail: castelo.rodrigo@gmail.com
Facebook: facebook.com/tabernaobalcao

The 2014 whites by Caves do Solar de São Domingos

April 17, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

Since 1937, the company named Caves do Solar de São Domingos has been producing bubbly wines, aguardente velha, bagaçeira (wine spirits), and Bairrada and Dão wines. Their arcades were carved into rock. It is definitely worth it to visit this wonderful hub where more than two million bottles of bubbly, many thousands of bottled wines and hundreds of small barrels are stored in French oak – for it’s infamous wine spirit.

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A few of their bubbly wines are in my list of national favourites. However, I will be focusing on the new white wines in this article, the 2014 editions that have just been launched. The 2014 harvest was tricky given the heavy rain. Those who harvested wines before the rains were lucky and got great quality white grapes. These words were repeated throughout the country, although the potential white casts of later ageing was mourned, but fortunately the early-ageing whites gave birth to high-quality wines.

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In this case, this means two whites of 2014. They are quite distinct from each other. While São Domingos is faithful to the Bairradino profile – its plot of land is mostly composed of Maria Gomes (80%) and Bical (20%) –, the grapes from S. Lourenço do Bairro, Vilarinho do Bairro and Ventosa do Bairro, grown in grounds rich in sand and clay, resulted in a white wine that is briefly passed through the cold stainless steel. Its aroma is very clean, mostly fruity, citrus, white pulp, flowers for a scented profile, creating a good environment, in the nose as well as in the mouth. A good presence in the palate, evident clean fruit; it shows some grasp with some mineral dryness in the background. A good white to have with a meal, for instance swordfish in a coal-oven or even fish soup.

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The other white is the most innovative side to this producer. Volúpia 2014 is wrapped in a poem by Florbela Espanca, from Vila Viçosa. Invoking voluptuousness and seduction, desire and flavour, the search for harmony and the pleasure of drinking a white grape. A desire to love deeply, to love for the sake of love itself, to love near or love far. That would be how Florbela Espanca would have defined this deeply poetic white wine – very sensual and bold, deeply personal and feminine. It comprises Sauvignong Blanc (50%), Chardonnay (35%) and Maria Gomes (15%) that come from Carregosa and are briefly run through stainless steel. It produces a different result, of a complex aroma but very fresh and perfumed, and with notes of very mature fruit; clean and mouth-watering. It is, most of all, a captivating wine of a delicate scent; its tasting reveals a mouth that gracefully combines volume with freshness. It has acidity and structure, it is well-able to entertain more oriental-flavoured meals, or to enhance a wide-range of tapas in a late-afternoon on a rooftop terrace.

Contacts
Caves do Solar de São Domingos, S.A.
Ferreiros – Anadia
Apartado 16
3781-909 Anadia – Portugal
Tel: (+351) 231 519 680
Fax: (+351) 231 511 269
E-mail: info@cavesaodomingos.com
Website: www.cavesaodomingos.com

Code name: Samarrinho

April 13, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

With a 258-year long history, Real Companhia Velha has recently taken to research, innovation and experimentation. Since 1996, the year when the so-called ‘Fine Wine Division’ was created, Real Companhia Velha have been doing complex work in experimenting and innovating. This was part of a mission between the young teams that work on viticulture and oenology. One of the first wines they worked on was the Chardonnay from Quinta de Cidrô of the 1996 harvest.

Séries Real Companhia Velha Samarrinho 2013 foto by Real Companhia Velha

In 2002, after a few visits to wine fields of the region, the technical team decided to plant a few white species, for instance Alvarelhão Branco, Alvaraça, Esgana Cão, Donzelinho Branco, Samarrinho, Touriga Branca – in Quinta Casal da Granja (Alijó) – and reds: Donzelinho Tinto, Malvasia Preta, Preto Martinho, Cornifesto, Tinta Francisca – in Quinta das Carvalhas (Ervedosa do Douro). The choice of species was based on a visual analysis of a few morphological parameters (vigour, size, sensitivity to dryness) and productive (fertility, size of the bunches, tasting of seeds), and Real Companhia Velha are responsible for collecting twigs for grafting.

This resulted in the launch of the brand Séries (Series) Real Companhia Velha, in 2012. Although it was registered as a wine brand, it really is a concept that aims to expose the company’s work in innovating and experimenting. When successful from an oenological point of view, these wines can be distributed and, when profitable, the next harvest will be approved for the company’s commercial portfolio. This happened with Rufete, the single-species wine of 2010, whose 2011 harvest was included in the portfolio for Quinta de Cidrô. Next were the Sparkling Real Companhia Velha Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Brut 2011 Series, which wore the ‘Real Companhia Velha’ seal in the following edition.

Casal da Granja - Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

After an intensive study lead by the viticulture team, the Samarrinho species was found to have an unavoidable presence in the Vinhas Velhas (old vineyards) in Alto Douro. Pedro Silva Reis, president of RCV, believes that Samarrinho may even become a reference for white wine in the region. Therefore, the company has decided to begin a ‘clonal selection’ (a process used to select grapes), now being developed by Instituto Superior de Agronomia (Higher Institute of Agronomy). The problem, for now, is that the current genetic material – in a speedy degenerative process – is too sensitive to diseases such as millerandage and irregular seed sizes. This caused a loss of the entire 2014 harvest.

This unique wine has only produced 860 bottles. The grape it is made from was completely unknown until now, and has come to show Portugal’s full potential in the World of Wine – for its wines’ distinction and unique identity. This Samarrinho turns out unusual, with a strong character, very defined in the nose with mixtures of white-pulp fruits and drupes (stone fruits), honey, lots of freshness, flowers, some similarities to some wines of the Riesling species. In the mouth, it’s mark is freshness; medium-bodied and merged with oiliness, fruits in syrup, a mineral and dry bottom with some nerve and displaying good potential to age in the bottle.

Contacts
Real Companhia Velha
Rua Azevedo Magalhães 314
4430-022 Vila Nova de Gaia
Tel: (+351) 22 377 51 00
Fax: (+351) 22 377 51 90
Email: graca@realcompanhiavelha.pt
Website: realcompanhiavelha.pt

Colecção Privada by Domingos Soares Franco Moscatel de Setúbal (Armagnac)

March 30, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

I was born and raised in Alentejo; more precisely in Vila Viçosa. It was life’s wish that, at 18, I come to Lisbon to study. At a time when wine did not mean much to me, except to share at the table with friends, we would occasionally open a bottle or two. And now, destiny has brought me back to live on the other side of the wall from one of the main distributors of wine in the Lisbon region. I cannot remember how many times I walked in there; my memory holds only as much as what I learned from the many hours of conversation and the many wines I bought and got to know throughout the years, many of which came straight from producers. Producers cropped up everywhere at the time, like mushrooms. My interest for the wine world kept growing and growing; I completed every necessary training programme and, thus, was more able to observe how the main references and producers in the industry developed.

One moment I will not forget is when I discoved the remarkable Moscatel de Setúbal by José Maria da Fonseca, or even Bastardinho. For many years – and still today – every time a group of close friends got together for a delicious meal, we had the perfect reason to bring out those bottles of Alambre 20 Years to top off our dessert.

On one of those visits, the latest wine by José Maria da Fonseca had just been released – a Moscatel, which oenologist Domingos Soares Franco had chosen as his model of innovation. He named it Colecção Privada (Private Collection). The product of a 5-year long investigation consisting in experiments with four types of aguardente (Portuguese type of brandy): neutral, Cognac, Armagnac and 50/50 Cognac Armagnac. The Armagnac came out as the favourite, having revealed subtlety, freshness, complexity and harmony during the tasting. The ageing of this wine is done in used wooden casks and does not age any further in the bottles, because it simply doesn’t develop once bottled.

Colecção Privada stands out from the other older wines of superior categories, as it doesn’t have the same gelatinous thick texture; this Armagnac-rich Colecção Privada Domingos Soares Franco 2004 is fresh and delicate, and yet its sweeter side shows. A lot of tangerine, caramel, apricot, lime – an excellently composed taste – elegant and soft thanks to the caramel fruit and orange syrup; the acidity is present until the end. A lasting farewell immersed in a beautiful harmony between scent and palate sensations. For me, a sweet-tooth, it goes exceptionally well with orange pie.

Contacts
Quinta da Bassaqueira – Estrada Nacional 10,
2925-542 Vila Nogueira de Azeitão, Setúbal, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 212 197 500
E-mail: info@jmf.pt
Website: www.jmf.pt

Posts Tagged : João Carvalho

VZ, a brand with the history of Douro

The two Arinto wines by Marquês de Marialva

Fish + White Wine = Portugal

Quinta do Ortigão, from Bairrada to the World

Maçanita – Siblings and Oenologists

Quinta de Covela – the new wines of 2014

Taberna Ó Balcão, a wild feast of scents and flavours by Chef Rodrigo Castelo

The 2014 whites by Caves do Solar de São Domingos

Code name: Samarrinho

Colecção Privada by Domingos Soares Franco Moscatel de Setúbal (Armagnac)