Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira
This white wine comes from the Sociedade Agrícola de Mortágua (Agricultural Society of Mortágua) and was produced at Quinta da Gândara, founded in 1756. From the granitic soils through the mountains of Caramulo and Bussaco are born the grapes that give place to the two wines now tasted, a white from the grape variety Encruzado and a Touriga Nacional red. Lacking more detailed and accurate information, I just want to register that these wines are part of Caves da Mantanha’s (Bairrada) “squad”. These are wines that fall under a profile that does not turn its back to the region, however, it is noticeable that everything is done in a more modern way and to the image of our days. It’s not that that’s bad sign, these are just signs that the region has known how to evolve and reposition itself in order to meet the demands of the market and new consumers.
A sign of this are the more modern wines. Wines that are more ready to drink and with more honed tannins where the aging and life in the bottle are often left aside. We are therefore faced with the immediate pleasure and we lose that keeping potential that gave so much fame to regions, such as the Dão. The question is whether this is the way forward or if it was just a shortcut that was chosen seeking early success. Both wines bear the designation Reserva. The aging was made in new French oak and lasted seven months for the white and ten months for the red.
The Quinta da Gândara Reserva Encruzado 2013 has a rich aroma, is ample with a clear presence of wood entangled in ripe fruit, and has some dried fruit pointing to an precocious evolution. The rest of the set is fresh, medium-sized, with a mineral clipping background reminding flintlock, vanilla. A medium weight profile with good dose of freshness. On the palate combines ripe fruit with lemon pie notes, it’s ample and with final dryness.
The Quinta da Gândara Touriga Nacional Reserva 2011 is the opposite of the white. Its aromas immediately take us to the Dão. The set has a good freshness showing a fresh and mature Touriga Nacional, floral, orange peel with a slight tip of austerity and exuberance. All packaged in a sweet tooth tone with notes of cocoa, spices, forest fruits jam, wrapped in freshness with cohesive mouth, a lot of energy with austerity in the background, fleshy and full of flavor.