Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

He was born in Cascais in 1979. His father was Portuguese and his mother English. She belonged to the post-war generation and was an excellent cook. His mother travelled a lot and, seeing as she appreciated many spices and scents, her cuisine was influenced by many different cultures of the world. She passed that interest of hers to her son. Miguel, on the other hand, believed his entrepreneurial talents were better fitted for the restaurant business, so he had to start with the basics. Although he had no experience in catering, he had great teachers, so at the tender age of 20, he rolled up his sleeves and got to work. A German friend of his mother’s, Bernard Pisfer, also helped out by tutoring him. But mostly, he gave him one key piece of advice: “You have to start low!” For a boy from Cascais, this was not easy to hear, in those times. Nevertheless, he listened to his tutor for two years and then followed him to Brazil.

He eventually developed an interest for the business, learned about it, started climbing in the hierarchy in Fortaleza do Guincho with chef Marc Leoudacec – another master in the business. Naturally, he also followed this great French chef to Burgundy, lived there for about a year and then moved on to Aix-en-Provence. Although he enjoyed France and had a good experience in a two-Michelin-Star restaurant, didn’t quite see himself staying there permanently. Meanwhile, French chef Benoit Synthon was looking for a chef for Casa Velha do Palheiro, in Madeira Island. He hired Laffan in 1996 and so he stayed in “Casa Velha” for two years.  At some point, the Lágrimas group took over “Molho”, a restaurant in Funchal port, which Miguel Laffan was already in charge of. After this, he worked at “Casa Branca”, also in Funchal, where he stayed for another two years and did some heavy yet secure work.

Lastly, in 2011, he embraced a project called “L’and Vineyards”, a new project in Alentejo that involved a lot of money. He got a lot of freedom for action, what allowed him to spread his creative wings and present consistently exquisite work.

This earned him the first star of the Michelin Guide – undoubtedly. According to Miguel, this was one of the greatest compliments ever paid to him, which corresponded not only to his own desire and investment but also to those of the hotel owners. In his kitchen, he either replaces some recipes that have been on the menu for some time with new ones or he changes them slightly. Either way, he takes seasonal products into consideration, which is a key part of his style. He wishes to prepare modern meals, while respecting the products, their flavours and tradition and, of course, to bring Alentejo products forth, for they have welcomed him with open arms. In our last visit, he welcomed us warmly and, as usual, with a delicious meal of his own creation.

Besides aromas, a play with texture and amazing flavours, they are true works of art. As the saying goes: “We also eat with our eyes…”

He started us off with a Scottish salmon cured with almonds and algae, tartar and bergamot, passion fruit and fennel. The main feature was the contrast of the freshness against the taste of cured fish.

Next, a texture composed of wild mushrooms from Alentejo with asparagus and acorn smoked ham.

The dry, earthy notes accompanied the presunto (smoked ham). Returning to maritime products, the next dish was red mullet from Setúbal on the stove with cockle bread panada, sautéd squid and fish stew with a side of crunchy salad. The scents and flavours of the sea with the various textures were sheer genius!

In a countryside style, the pigeon breast tasted superb marinated in honey, passion fruit and soya sauce, foi gras risotto and slightly sour salad made of radish and beetroot – a spotlight landing on the soft pigeon meat over the sweet and sour contrasts.

Two desserts were presented: first, a pistaccio tiramisu with white chocolate and confit cherries, coffee-flavoured ice cream and a croquant of tainori chocolate – bewildering!

After a duo of carrot over pistachio dust with saffron foam, ginger and honey-flavoured ice cream – the grand finale!

Running through our glasses were Douro wines of Quinta da Casa Amarela and Alentejo wines of Herdade do Mouchão, providing an invigorating balanced conversation.

The friendly chat carried on through the night…

Contacts
L’AND Vineyards
Estrada Nacional 4
Herdade das Valadas
Apartado 122
7050-031 Montemor-o-Novo
Tel: (+351) 266 242 400
Fax: (+351) 266 242 401
E-mail: reservas@l-and.com
Website: www.l-andvineyards.com