Blend All About Wine Arquivo de Several Wines - Page 2 of 6

Churchill’s New Image

April 19, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Bruno Ferreira

It’s a Douro wines production company that exists only for 35 years now, it was founded in 1981 by John Graham, but has already reached the age of majority, producing table wines and high quality Ports with its own characteristics and a stiff image that leaves no one indifferent.

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In 1999, Churchill’s bought Quinta da Gricha, in the Ervedosa area of the Douro, near S. João da Pesqueira. We’re speaking of vineyards with some altitude, some of them very old and with a huge range of grape varieties, and, a few dozens give rise to wines full of complexity, elegance, freshness and acidity, which are only possible with vineyards with that location. For the white table wines they buy grapes on the other bank of the river, in the region of Murça, benefiting, in addition to the altitude of some granitic soils.

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In Vila Nova de Gaia have a nice visitors’ center, resulting from the recovery of old facilities, which runs a space for events and a sales shop, but where you can also enjoy vats of large volume where steadily age some of the company’s Port wines. It was there that they recently presented a new red wine to the press, Quinta da Gricha 2013. And it was during an informal lunch prepared by Chef Victor Sobral.

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Before that, the company’s CEOs, John Graham and Maria Emília Campos, and the winemaker Ricardo Nunes, made a presentation of the company and the wines we were tasting, one of them being the new red wine.

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In the upper room of this delightful space in Gaia, with a superb view of the riverbanks and the D. Luís Bridge, we tasted seven wines, starting with the curiosity of a rosé of which only 2,000 bottles were made, with screwcap. A young wine, very fresh and with excellent acidity, with no great pretensions, but very pleasant, even to join some simple snacks. Depletes at a glance! Then it was the white, composed by Rabigato and Viosinho, very elegant, full of freshness and with a persistent acidity making it very gastronomic, a beautiful wine. The first red followed, the Churchill’s Estates 2013, an entry range consisting of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz, elegant, simple and balanced. The Churchill’s Estates Touriga Nacional showed itself full of structure, fragrant, large, very elegant, with excellent acidity, very characteristic, a beautiful red. Then it was tasted a powerful Churchill’s Grande Reserva, resulting from old vines, with many many grape varieties of the region, from various properties, giving it complexity, depth, a mouth bulky and exotic at the same time, a wine to last for many years in bottle.

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Then came the new wine, Quinta da Gricha 2013, also originating from very old vines, but this time only from Quinta da Gricha, which shows itself as the ultimate expression of this Quinta’s terroir. Very mineral, with notes of black fruits, full-bodied, with a fantastic and lush acidity, a great red wine from the Douro.

Lastly, we tasted the Port Quinta da Gricha Vintage 2013, a classic vintage full structure with notes of clove, blackberry, fig, black plum, dark chocolate and orange peel, very complex. Bulky and with an amazing acidity, very fresh, spicy notes, blueberries, it’s still young but will be very interesting to taste it in a few years.

Then followed a lunch served by Chef Vitor Sobral, which began with a marinated sea bass with vegetables, very fresh, delicious, which held up well with a surprising Dry White Port, full of freshness and slightly spicy.

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Then he served us a codfish piece on a greens bed and grain purée with caramelized onions, very well done, and it matched very well with the white wine.

And then, a surprise dish of the Alentejo coast, cuttlefish with ink and beans, fantastic. And held up with style with the reds Touriga Nacional 2012 and Grande Reserva 2011. To end the meal, we drank a 20-Year-Old Tawny and a 1997 Vintage, both already at a very high level. Down below, the Douro was keeping its course, phlegmatic …

The presentation of an old producer – Quinta Dona Matilde

April 18, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

At every curve of the Douro there seems to exist a Quinta or a special location. It’s a river with charisma, a valley where nature and man have joined in creation. In the twists and turns, heights and riverbanks, in the way of facing the sun and in the wide range of varieties is written a great book. Not everything deserves to be character or chapter, but it’s a sheaf.

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The Quinta Dona Matilde has the right to enter history. If I use the book picture is because there’s a plot about this property. This domain belonged for four generations, to the Barros family, who bought it in 1927.

In May 2006, Manuel Ângelo Barros sold the Barros Group to Sogevinus Group. Quinta Dona Matilde was in the package along with the other assets. However, the wine is an imp and soon started to pester the entrepreneur who had sold the property.

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Thus, Manuel Ângelo Barros and his family decided they had to go back to the wine. So many turns and they ended up buying back Quinta Dona Matilde at the end of 2006 – the remaining assets remained in Sogevinus.

The Quinta is located in Canelas, between Peso da Régua and Pinhão, within the initial demarcation area of Douro, established in 1756. All the wine area, 28 ha, is classified as Letra A (letter A) – the highest rank of the scoring table by the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto – IVDP. In addition to the vineyards, Quinta Dona Matilde also has a traditional olive grove, an orchard, where stand out the lemon and orange trees, gardens and land left to nature. All this adds to the total of 93 ha.

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Port wine has always been the destination of this Quinta’s grapes. A small part wasn’t fortified, but it was only for family consumption. In the 60s, the company produced a rosé and, in the 90s, a white – but always marginal. In family reincarnation, the Douro wine production is side by side with the production of Port Wine. Currently they are selling the grapes to the group The Fladgate Partnership.

Manuel Ângelo Barros says that he in no hurry to put the wines for sale, a rare decision in Portugal. Now they presented the 2011 vintage, related to reds. The presented white is from 2015. The tradition of this house was to make tawny ports and it will be, although the manufacturing of nectars with age indication is, for now, put aside. They decided to focus on the Rubies, namely vintages. The viticulture is in charge of José Carlos Oliveira and the enology in charge João Pissarra.

Dona Matilde White 2015 is a blend made with the grape varieties Arinto, Gouveio, Rabigato and Viosinho. The grapes were pressed and the wine was fermented in stainless steel vats.

Because of the mountainous terrain and a river cutting it, the Douro region is generous in variety of features. However, this wine surprised me, because I never would say that this is a nectar from this region.

I’m not a fan of making a sensory descriptors list, but it is justified to do so now, so that I can tell why I do not find the Douro in this white. It’s a wine where tropical fruit scents prevail, especially pineapple and passion fruit, combined with anise, a pinch of fennel, mandarin and a little lemon. In the mouth, the tropical nature stands out. It goes on and on and with freshness too.

And this that I’ve just written is good or bad? It’s a well-made wine – good! In terms of personal taste, it does not satisfy me. Then I wonder if this tropical and unpredictable profile is natural or if it was a will of the winemaker and the producer. If it’s solely the result of nature, I won’t speak a word. If it is intentional, I say I can see the reason for the Douro to produce wines with this profile.

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The Dona Matilde Red 2011 is clearly a Douro and exemplary of the year. It’s a blend of Tinta Amarela, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional – all from old vines, as indicates the producer. Part of the grapes were trodden in lagares. The wine aged for a year in wood. It’s sweet tooth without being sweet, soft, fresh and has good mouth-time. Minty aroma and a very smooth smoked holm oak firewood. Beautiful!

Dona Matilde Reserva Red 2011 is a blend in which the Touriga Nacional represents 50%. Then we have Touriga Franca (30%) and a bouquet of various other, mixed in an old vine, where the Tinta Amerela prevails. Part of the grapes were trodden in granite lagares. The wine aged 18 months in new French oak barrels.

It’s the Douro well shown: rock rose, mint, wood and holm oak wood smoke, black plum, blackberry jam, strawberry jam (calm and soft), figs, a little of blond tobacco and shale – all happily married. In the mouth continues to be Douro, fully occupies the space, smooth, with tannins laughing (without biting the skin), fresh and dry, long and deep.

Before moving to the generous wine, I want to note that these three wines ask for table. The reds give hopes of good evolution in the bottle.

The Quinta Dona Matilde Porto Colheita 2008 is not an ordinary tawny, halfway Ruby. It’s the result of less time of aging in wood. Three years in oak barrels and four in barrels of 600 liters.

It’s a happy and pleasant surprise wine. It has what is expected of a tawny and resembles a ruby. There are dried fruit, caramel, vanilla and a pinch of iodine. Along with the blackberry, plum, cherry, and strawberry jams… It’s deep and dense, long.

The Quinta Dona Matilde Vintage 2011 is further proof that the year was very generous to the Portuguese winemakers. It’s a blend of Tinta Amarela, Tinta Barroca, Rufete, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional. The wine aged two years in oak barrels, having then been bottled. There are again the many jams that liven up the vintage, from the nose to the mouth – deep and long.

The new Vintages are what they are, but they will also be something else. They should be drunk now or be saved? I do not know! I do not know if I’m alive tomorrow. I know that if I stay awake for more years, the wine will be better. Those who can, drink and save it.

Contacts
Quinta D. Matilde
Bagaúste
5050-445 Canelas PRG
Portugal
E-mail: info@donamatilde.pt
Website: www.donamatilde.pt

Marcolino Sebo Wines – Quinta da Pinheira Colheita Seleccionada 2010 and Visconde de Borba Reserva 2011

March 21, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Marcolino Sebo afforded to pay the arable land with what he got in the extractive industry. Estremoz is a land of marble and vineyard. Plot by plot and totalling 190 hectares, 130 are vineyard.

Marcolino Sebo’s viticultural history begins in 1975, a time when the country was burning with political passions, almost ending up in a civil war that would split the country in half – I won’t elaborate about the history of Portugal.

Up until 1999, Marcolino Sebo had been selling the grapes to the Adega Cooperativa de Borba, becoming a prominent supplier. In that same year they made their first own vintage and debuted the winery.

All vineyards are within the demarcation of Alentejo, within the sub-region of Borba. Not all its wines are DOC Alentejo (controlled designation of origin), several of them are classified as Regional Alentejo. In addition to the still wines, Marcolino Sebo also produces and sells liqueur wines, grape marc spirit and wine spirit. And also has a small production of olive oil.

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Marcolino Sebo in marcolinosebo.com

Everything is used and saved. The generous wines allow him not to waste wine that hardly would sell. The spirits are acquired to those who buys him vinic subproducts. The barrels which are no longer useful are used to age the spirits.

The produced wine is mostly red: six reds, three whites, one rosé, a white liqueur wine, one wine spirit (old) and one grape marc spirit. Why so many reds? Because they are the most sought – simple.

In such a wide range, the menu of Marcolino Sebo goes from 2,5 euros up to 20. Monte da Vaqueira (white and red) is the basis. The ideas that are beyond the main profile come with the brand Quinta da Pinheira, but the badge goes to the shelves as Visconde de Borba. The liqueur wine and the spirits are sold under the producer’s name.

Well, let’s move on to what matters. I didn’t try the whole range, yet the sample was broad. A summary prepared by Jorge Santos, with great sympathy and a proud Alentejo accent.

Portugal is fortunate (merit) with its generous / liqueur wines – bureaucratic differentiation to designate fortified wines and sincerely it only gets in the way. With Port wine, Madeira wine and Moscatel de Setúbal, among others, it’s not easy to shine. These nectars are traditional in most of the country and the Alentejo is one of its homelands. So … MS Licoroso Branco, made from a blend of Rabo de Ovelha and Roupeiro, is in that ancient family. It has freshness and is gluttonous. As for the rest, it cannot be compared.

Jorge Santos explained that the house’s wines intend to answer two questions: the tradition and the world. But I disagree! I mean, the traditional part is true, but I found no other accent besides of the sung phrases in «language» Alentejo. Note that Marcolino Sebo also has vines of non-Portuguese grape varieties.

On its own, what I’ve written above is neither positive nor negative – because there exists good and bad in what is old and in ‘travel’. In this case the balance is clearly positive, either in the nectars that cling to the Alentejo region, and in those who decided to wander a little.

Looking at the set … and since we’re talking about Alentejo, where in the whites pontificates the grape variety Antão Vaz … well! The fault is neither of the producer nor of the winemaker nor of the grape variety. I do not like the Antão Vaz! Okay, forgetting the personal taste, I need to give a vote of confidence.

I recognize that there is some injustice by choosing to only comment on some wines. Which is the criteria to be followed? Only the top-end? Point to those with a more democratic price? Of the several possible criteria, I will choose by the maternal side – from Alentejo, although from a land without vineyard (Castro Verde).

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Visconde de Borba Reserva 2011 in marcolinosebo.com

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Quinta da Pinheira Colheita Seleccionada in marcolinosebo.com

I will consciously assume the personal taste – I’ll tell you a detail of this matter in a moment. Quinta da Pinheira Colheita Seleccionada 2010 (Alicante Bouschet, Aragonês and Trincadeira) and Visconde de Borba Reserva 2011 (Alicante Bouschet, Aragonês, Tinta Caiada and Trincadeira) pleased me on the oenophile’s ‘G-spot’, by their strong accent.

The detail I mentioned is that at lunch, with Jorge Santos and Sónia Sebo (daughter of Marcolino Sebo and manager of the firm), I was ‘obliged’ to meet several ‘family members’. In the end, the winemaker handed me three bottles (the ones I mentioned above and the Quinta da Pinheira red 2011) and told me those where “his ones”, those whose sung accent give him the warmth of the region.

Yes. It is true! How well they speak singing.

Everyone there sings. And the cante alentejano (Alentejo singing) is part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage List, sentenced UNESCO.

Contacts
Quinta da Pinheira – Arcos
7100 Estremoz
Tel: (+351) 268 891 570
Fax: (+351) 268 891 571
E-mail: geral@marcolinosebo.com
Website: www.marcolinosebo.com

Two Rosés from the Tejo – Casal da Coelheira 2015 and Tyto Alba 2015

March 14, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

The Comissão Vitivinícola Regional do Tejo has been sending wines for tasting and they deserve approval – if I may. I can’t write about them all, but there’s a few that show up so happy that there is no excuse or priority that pushes them out of the obligations room.

The companies that produce these two nectars are quite different, starting with the dimension up to the social nature. The company Casal da Coelheira was born in the early twentieth century and has 250 hectares, of which 64 are vineyards. Contrarily, the Companhia das Lezírias is a public limited company owned entirely by the state – 17,800 hectares (1,500 hectares are leased), of which 130 hectares of vineyards.

While being huge, I thought it was even bigger. Still, the Companhia das Lezírias is probably the largest Portuguese estate. If the numbers to which I had access are correct, the area almost comes close to the double of the city of Lisbon (10,000 hectares – Wikipedia).

I will write more, but I could summarize these two wines with an interjection:

– Oh summer! Come here now! Do not be long.

The Casal da Coelheira 2015 is fantastically simple, made on the basis of Touriga Nacional and Syrah. It brilliantly fulfills the function of fun with which it was probably designed. Easy to deal with, pleasant, sweet tooth without being a syrup, where pontificates the blackcurrant aroma. It’s decided! This one is mandatory for this summer! I would not match it with food – possibly a chicken salad with fruit. Wants to talk and will help with seduction … will make a positive contribution to the birth rate.

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Casal da Coelheira Rosé 2015 in casaldacoelheira.pt

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Tyto Alba Vinhas Protegidas Rosé 2015 in tytoalba.pt

The Tyto Alba Vinhas Protegidas 2015 is an absolute revelation. The name is beautiful! And more beautiful when it is known that it is honoring a magnificent bird: the coruja-das-torres (screech owl) – in Portugal is known by more names.

It is a revelation – for me – because I was not expecting anything comparable at all.

– What is this?! My God!

It was sort of like this. I am fond of rosés, I like them from the sweet up to the extra-dry. Weighing them all, this is (probably) the best Portuguese rosé I ever drank! If it’s not the best I drank, it is at least the one that has given me more pleasure.

It didn’t even benefit from any event that would delimitate it. A normal day of the week, I was neither stressed nor relaxed, neither sad nor happy, neither tired nor athletic, neither hungry nor satiated. I think I was at the ‘point zero’ or ‘point 50’ on a scale of zero to 100.

– What is this?! My God!

Very fresh, elegant, slick, party-animal, an unusual complexity, very easy, great for light fare, great for chatting, magnificent for dancing. With the advantage of weighing only 12.5%. I wished for that moment to never end.

The Tyto Alba Vinhas Protegidas 2015 results from the junction of Touriga Nacional and Merlot. Knowing the heat of the region and looking at the alcohol content of this nectar, I have to say:

– It’s well worth it not to consider rosés as a reds’ sub-product.

After the initial years – in which the rosés were odd, seen as a fad, a solution to use leftovers or a curiosity to help sell “the” wine – nowadays are made in Portugal many ‘true’ or ‘honest’ rosés, made with the will to make and build them well. Both of them are in the section of the national good rosés.

I can only applaud those who wanted to harvest the grapes earlier and engaged in making a wine and not a spare – I do not mean that there isn’t any other good rosés with more whieght and resulting from the grapes harvested for reds.

Unlike coruja-das-torres, the Tyto Alba Vinhas Protegidas 2015 flies by day and night. The bird is a protected species. The wine must be hunted to extinction. And will also help to make babies!

Sandeman – 226 years making history

February 17, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by Blend - All About Wine

Text Bruno Mendes

Sandeman‘s history began 226 years ago in 1970, when George Sandeman asked his father for a 300£ loan in order to start his trade business of Port and Sherry wines in London. When he started the business his goal was to make a moderate fortune so he could retire at the end of the century but he ended up creating one of the world’s greatest wine businesses.

Sandeman was the first company to ever brand a cask, in 1805. All barrels were then branded with the name George Sandeman & Co to assure the quality of the product. However, this brand would only be registered in 1877, just one year after the year in which it was finally possible to formally register brands.

In the video below you will find more details about this company and the celebratory wines of the 225 years of existence.

Quinta do Vallado

February 3, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by Blend - All About Wine

Text Bruno Mendes

It’s one of the oldest and most famous Quintas in the Douro Valley. Built in 1716 it was owned by Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferreira and remains until today in the family. We’re talking about Quinta do Vallado, close to Peso da Régua in the riverbanks of the Corgo river.

In 1993, at a time when the direction was already in charge of Guilherme Álvares Ribeiro and his wife Maria Antónia Ferreira the company decided to expand its area of activity by doing production, bottling and trading with its own brand. Up until then and for 200 years Quinta do Vallado had as its main activity the production of Port wines that were then sold under the name Casa Ferreira, which also belonged to the family.

Nowadays Quinta do Vallado has 70 hectares of planted vineyard 20 of which are vines with over 80 years and the remaining 50 with vines from 11 to 18 years old. The most prevalent grape varieties planted here are Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Barroca, Tinta Amarela e Sousão for the reds and Viosinho, Rabigato, Moscatel, Verdelho (Gouveio) e Arinto for the whites.

Finished in 2009 both the new winery and cellar have the most advance tecnhology and na architecture of quality, which make the Quinta a fantastic space and one of the places to visit in the Douro Valley (Baixo Corgo).

More recently Quinta do Vallado has opened the doors of another estate located in Douro Superior (Foz Côa). The Quinta do Orgal (river house), which has magnificent facilities and views over the river – see here what we’re talking about.

For a more detailed vision check the video below and Sarah Ahmed’s previous article about this Quinta.

Quinta Vale D. Maria VVV Valleys and plenty of history

January 25, 2016 1 comment in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Stumbling upon non-Portuguese names in Port wine labels is as common as a Portuguese’s surname being Silva or Santos. The van Zeller live in Portugal for so long that their name is now as Portuguese as mine.

Contrary to most «foreign» families the van Zeller were not traders but noble. The oldest record of the Zeller dates 1215, in Gelderland (Netherlands). The first record in Portugal is João van Zeller, consul of Prussia in Lisbon that married in Oporto in 1687.

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Van Zeller’s & Co was founded in 1780 to trade Port wine and was sold in the XIX century. The history takes many turns and the brands were offered, in 2006, to Cristiano van Zeller, the boss.

The most important fact, the Quinta belonged to Joana van Zeller’s family and it was one of her great great grandfathers that made the registry in 1868 but the ownership dates way back – linked to the much ancient rural nobility, with bonds prior to Portugal’s independence (XII century).

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I’m writing this because wine without history is one thing but with history is another, many generations of noble and commoners that built unique identities. Like the Rothschild’s winemakers say – What’s difficult in the wine business are the first 150 years.

From the 12 references, I choose five. The CVs (top-end), the VVVs (novelty) and Francisca. Located in Sarzedinho, the property came to the current owners’ hands with only 19 hectares ten of which with vineyards and 41 grape varieties. Nowadays there are 45 hectares with Vitis vinífera. The winemaking is in charge of Cristiano van Zeller, Joana Pinhão and Sandra Tavares da Silva.

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CV white 2014 was made with grapes from one single plot, old vines located 600 meters of altitude, mainly composed by Rabigato, Códega, Donzelinho Branco, Gouveio, Samarrinho and Viosinho. It’s an interesting combination of citrus, some anise, pharmacy and earth. In the mouth is bodied and long.

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CV red 2013 is a blend of 25 grape varieties of over 80 years’ old vineayrds from which stand out the Donzelinho Tinto, Rufete, Sousão, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Francisca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional. It’s very complex in terms of aromas and flavors; from flowers to forest fruits, mint, spices, holm oak wood smoke, earth… a palate full of subtleties, fresh, with «flesh», bodied, dense, elegant – even contradictory in perfumes and flavors. Majestic.

Quinta Vale D. Maria Vinha da Francisca Tinto 2013 is the heir’s wine and came from the plot that was planted when she turned 18, in 2004. This plot comprises of 4,5 hectares with Tinta Francisaca, Sousão, Touriga Franca, Rufete and Touriga Nacional. Elegant as a princess – a qualification already assigned to “heiress”.

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The triple V: Vale do Rio Torto, Vale do Rio Pinhão and Vale do Rio Douro. The three Vs, the five from the Roman numeral, illustrate the 15 generations of winemakers. The V always identified the best wines of the family.

Vale D. Maria VVV Valleys white 2014, non-disclosed grape varieties, has fresh and gluttonous fruit and vanilla in the nose. In the mouth is long and deep.

Vale D. Maria VVV Valleys red 2013, non-disclosed grape varieties, gluttonous red fruit and earthy notes. It’s “thin”, elegant and deep.

V for victories!

Quinta do Gradil new wines and restaurant

January 22, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Recently I visited Quinta do Gradil located in the foothills of Serra de Montejunto. According to information taken from the producer’s website it is considered one, if not the most, older estate of the Cadaval county with a strong wine tradition that lasts for centuries. It was accquired in the late 90s by António Gomes Vieira’s grandchildren, the precursor of the wine tradition in the family since 1945. In 2000 the new owners started the reconversion process of the whole vineyard area and opted for the grape varieties with greatest quality. In the 120 hectares of vineyard we can find many grapes varieties planted, both white and red. Sauvignon Blanc, Arinto, Viosinho, Viognier, Chardonnay, Petit Manseng, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Tannat, Petit Verdot and Syrah are some examples. Eng. Bento Rogado is the responsible fot this rich landscape of vineyards and all of these grapes are vinified in the cellar coordinated by Eng. Pedro Martins under the attentive baton of winemakers Vera Moreira and António Ventura.

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The restaurant in quintadogradil.pt

The small palace and the chapel were in a very advanced state of degradation when the new owners acquired the Quinta. They were both cleaned up and there’s already an ambitious project to rehabilitate them. The winery got some improvements and is now prepared a deep reformulation in the next two years. The old stables gave place to a socializing space. The Quinta’s restaurant also underwent a rehabilitation, the kitchen is in charge of Chef Daniel Sequeira, and it was there that we were welcomed and had the chance to taste and match some of the new wines with dishes of the new menu. A moment of relaxation where the wines showed themselves comfortable with the table and in this case with the proposals of the Chef.

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The first to be served, Quinta do Gradil Sauvigon Blanc e Arinto 2014, showed up young and with a good freshness, good connection between the grape varieties, matching the more exotic and vegetal side of the Sauvignon with the citric and freshness of the Arinto. A good combination that results in a direct and very pleasant wine in the company of well-seasoned starters as was the case in the photo above.

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Quinta do Gradil Sauvigon Blanc e Arinto 2014 in quintadogradil.pt

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Quinta do Gradil Chardonnay 2014 in quintadogradil.pt

Quinta do Gradil Chardonnay 2014 shows a more bodied profile than the previous one because the wine has some more fats that grant it uncotuosity and wheight. The fruit comes in the format of white pulp fruit with lemon and pear, all wrapped in a good freshness with the gentle warmth of the barrel in a well-balanced set.

While the varietal show the best of each year the Reserva are the most special of this house and are only created when the achieved quality is in a superior level. So Quinta do Gradil Reserva branco 2013 came out, it’s a blend of Arinto and Chardonnay with a passage in barrel. It’s a wine quite more serious, cohese and with good complexity, fresh, and with a slight unctuosity wrapping up the fruit, slightly vegetal with scent herbs. Good amplitude in the mouth of a fresh and tasty wine with good presence.

In terms of reds I only tasted one wine and showed up well, it was the Quinta do Gradil Syrah 2013. Gluttonous and with a fruit that makes it very appealing, the slight chemical touch that shows at first in the glass little to nothing bothers. Then it’s a bazaar of good things passing in front of the nose, from chocolates, spices, to fruit with a little jam, good freshness in a wine with harmony that still shows signs that will endure over time.

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Quinta do Gradil Reserva branco 2013 in quintadogradil.pt

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Quinta do Gradil Syrah 2013 in quintadogradil.pt

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Quinta do Gradil Sparkling Wine Chardonnay e Arinto 2013 in quintadogradil.pt

Finally and for farwell I tasted the Quinta do Gradil Sparkling Wine Chardonnay e Arinto 2013, a wine that pleased by its freshness and fruit elegance. Has fine bubbles and shows good pairing bewtween the two grape varieties. Persistant acidity in a set with a slight unctuosity. A very pleasant and festive wine ready for some starters served on the terrace.

Contacts
Estrada Nacional 115 Vilar
2550 – 073 Vilar | Cadaval
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 262 770 000
Fax: (+351) 262 777 007
Mobile: (+351) 917 791 974
E-mail: info@quintadogradil.pt
Website: www.quintadogradil.pt

Quinta do Ameal, quality everywhere

January 11, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

In a small estate in Minho that dates back to 1710, Pedro Araújo, great-grandson to Adriano Ramos Pinto, has been developing a project for the production of white wines in the valley of Lima river, which has been building a reputation for higher-quality wines.

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Thanks to a unique terroir, in a property that includes banks on the river Lima, with excellent grounds and an excellent exposure to the sun, he has been developing vineyards on this land, which are mostly of the region’s ruling grape variety, Loureiro. It even included some Arinto variety, which was bottled in 2005, but the motorway that links Ponte de Lima to Arcos de Valdevez cut off those vines. He has also been planting a few other vines and will soon replant a little Arinto. In total, he owns 30 hectares of vines, 12 of which are biologically produced.

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The first Ameal Loureiro was made in 1999, and in 2000, the Ameal Escolha emerges, which was the first Loureiro to be fermented and to have aged in a cask.

Later, in 2002, he produced his first sparkling wine, which was only launched in 2009, and in 2006, he produced another sparkling wine that will only be released in 2016 after having aged for 10 years.

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In 2007, the first Special Harvest emerged, a late harvest that only filled 700 half-bottles. It was produced, once again, in 2010, 2011 and 2012, and there is an expected production for 2015.

Closing the circle of new products, in 2011, it was time for the first Ameal Solo, which is a natural wine, after 10 years of biologic agriculture. A tribute to the grounds and to the life in them. It was launched in 2013, and was reproduced in 2014, already in the market, and it’s another wine to quickly run out. Quinta do Ameal, produce about 60,000 bottles of wine a year, exports them to 15 countries, among which is Australia. Pedro Araújo has successfully brought them to renowned restaurants, some with Michelin stars, the result of a very complex job that includes many trips to several countries, to markets, and to festivals. The wines from Quinta do Ameal are white, with a very characteristic profile, with fruit, but not too exuberant; complex and iconic wines with excellent acidity and enormous minerality, captivating wines that captivate you and that you look forward to having. Although these are white wines produced in green-wine region, that does not make them strictly hot-weather wines; much on the contrary. They are gastronomic wines that can be enjoyed in the summer, at a very cool temperature, but which are also nice in the winter, for example, with seafood, oven-roast fish, and even a decent meal of codfish. Pedro Araújo knows well hot to transmit it, how to get it on the market.

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He has recently decided to invest in rural tourism, having enhanced the estate’s natural beauty and having restaured many houses of many sizes.

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Every house has an en-suite, especially the biggest one, which includes three, and a huge living room that is also used to serve breakfasts and several other meals, as well as wine tastings. Every house offers free powerful wi-fi, and interestingly, they also allow access to many radio channels from around the world, with a choice of music genre for every taste.

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The homes have refined details, based on many materials from the estate itself, from fallen or chopped-down trees, even old doors and gates, which are now used for a different purpose, and in extremely good taste.

The comfort factor will always be there, all about. When possible, the breakfasts include natural products from the estate.

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With capacity for 11 people, you can take a stroll round the property, about the vineyards or along the river, and there is even a pathway that connects the estate to Ponte de Lima, a few miles away.

The pool is very popular when the weather is good, where you can enjoy some appetisers and cool drinks, which include the estate’s wines. Entire meals of various types can be ordered in advance.

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Pedro Araújo has created a modern hotel unit for wine tourism in the middle of Minho.

Contacts
Quinta do Ameal – SOC. AGR. S.A.
4990 – 707 Refóios do Lima Ponte do Lima
Portugal
Mobile: (+351) 916 907 016
Tel: (+351) 258 947 172
Fax: (+351) 258 947 172
E-mail: quintadoameal@netcabo.pt
Website: www.quintadoameal.com

Passagem wines – beyond the river

January 4, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

Portugal is lucky to have two excellent wine regions! The world-class Madeira and Douro/Port. This is remarkable in a country of an area of 57,000 square miles. Douro is wonderful because you can make “everything” there.

Crossing a river is not an easy thing to do.

Borders are imaginary lines, fabricated lines. Not absolutely, because mountains and rivers insist on “geometric imperfection” – especially in the “old worlds”. Not accidentally, many cities, regions, and countries are named after rivers or have derived or related names.

In classic Greek mythology, the dead were sent to Hades (Hell) down river Aquaronte. Rivers (water) are considered sacred in many ancestral cultures. That is what it’s about.

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Quinta das Bandeiras, by Pocinho village, in Douro Superior, is on the right-hand-side margin of the second largest river to flow through Portugal. On the other side is Quinta do Vale Meão. By tasting the wines, it becomes evident how a stream of water (not very wide) can act as a border – fact.

Of course, there is different exposure to the sun, and so on and so forth, making soil composition crucial. The thing about oenology: those making the wines insist (and fortunately so) on taking advantage of the differentiating factors. There’s Quinta de La Rosa, Real Companhia Velha, and Passagem wines are… Passagem. Please take this as a big compliment.

Oenologist Jorge Moreira shares Quinta das Bandeiras with Sophia Bergqvist in equal parts; the latter is managing Quinta de La Rosa, next to Pinhão. They are restless people, who are never happy with what they have and do not want to repeat themselves.

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To me, the “man” factor is part of terroir. That said, I would say that the bet has been won. I must add that there is another border (obvious to me) between “quality” and “taste”. As a wine columnist, I must remain impartial – which is not to be mistaken for a lack of opinion. As an oenophile, these wines do not fulfil me. But there’s no particular reason, I only “like” them.

To each their own nose and mouth, and I don’t refuse suggestions. Those who appreciate wine and those who like Douro “have to” try Passagem wines. Let’s have them, then:

Passagem Vinho Branco Reserva 2014 was made with “a lot of grapes”, especially Viosinho, Gouveio, Rabigato, and Códega do Larinho, 1300 feet high. With good acidity, it’s food friendly.

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Passagem Vinho Tinto Reserva 2013 shares its white brother’s freshness, having spent 18 months in French oak casks. The grape varieties are Touriga Nacional (70%); Touriga Franca (25%), and Sousão (5%). Referring to “my own taste”: I am no oenologist, but I occasionally dabble in alchemy: it has too much Touriga Nacional, it’s missing some Touriga Franca, and I don’t like the Sousão variety.

More enjoyable (for my taste) is Passagem Porto Vintage 2011, made from two Tourigas; the percentage was not revealed. While objective: a vintage with character that isn’t just another one out of the bottle, as José Mourinho once put it. The fantastic year of 2011 was well surfed.

I would like to add “it’s worth it”: it’s outside the Douro spectral band, but still has Douro in it. It’s different, but it’s Douro.

Contacts
Passagem Wines
Tel: (+351) 254 732 254
E-mail: mail@passagemwines.com
Website: passagemwines.com

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Quinta Vale D. Maria VVV Valleys and plenty of history

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Quinta do Ameal, quality everywhere

Passagem wines – beyond the river