Posts Categorized : João Carvalho

João Portugal Ramos Loureiro 2013, the inexpensive pleasures of Vinho Verde

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

The adventure of João Portugal Ramos in the wine world began in 1980. Having had vineyards in Dão, Lisboa and Setúbal, today his presence is now limited to the regions of Alentejo, Tejo, Beiras and Douro.

The international channels of distribution asked him for a Vinho Verde, and that was what he did launching in 2010 his first wine from that region, the Lima Loureiro exclusively for the American market.

Having consolidated the project based in Monção, an investment of approximately 1 million Euros, he successfully launched in the harvest of 2012, the João Portugal Ramos Alvarinho (Portugal, UK and USA).

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João Portugal Ramos Loureiro 2013 – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Now comes the time to unveil in the Portuguese market and with equal success, the João Portugal Ramos Loureiro 2013 (€ 3,79 RRP). A wine with a very fresh and elegant aroma, citrus fruits, lemongrass and aromatic herbs, combined with a strong minerality. On the palate, it has good acidity and refreshing flavors, with a lasting finish. The Vinho Verde region receives the maritime influence and therefore its wines are a truly welcome symbol of summer, a perfect pair with shellfish, ceviche or to enjoy as an easy-to-drink summer wine.

Contacts
João Portugal Ramos Vinhos S.A.
Vila Santa
7100-149 Estremoz
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 268 339 910
Fax: (+351) 268 339 918
Website: www.jportugalramos.com

Single Harvest Tawnies of excellence!

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

Quinta do Noval is one of the great Port houses. It not only produces the most famous Vintage Port of them all, the legendary ‘Nacional’, it is also the only big name producer whose top wines are exclusively single vineyard (i.e., “Quinta”).

The Quinta do Noval history dates back to 1715, when it was first listed on the land registries of its time. The area of one hundred and forty-five hectares, which dominates the Pinhão Valley (Cima Corgo) constitutes the essence and soul of Quinta do Noval. In 1894 (after its devastation by phylloxera) it was purchased by the distinguished Port shipper António João da Silva. Da Silva breathed new life into Quinta do Noval, replanting the phylloxera-ravaged one hundred and forty-five hectare vineyard (entirely classified letter A) onto American rootstocks. In 1925, a very small section at the heart of the Noval vineyard (two hectare) was selected to attempt to retain the indigenous Portuguese vines on Portuguese rootstock (Nacional) as an experiment. The first wine to be made and sold from these young vines was the Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage 1931, arguably the most sensational Port of the XXth century.

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Quinta do Noval © Blend All About Wine, Lda

António João Silva’s work was continued by his son-in-law, Luiz Vasconcelos Porto, who led the company for 30 years and retired in 1963. Author of a vast program of innovations: he transformed many of the narrow older terraces into the broad terraces that are such a distinctive feature of Noval with their whitewashed staircases. The first stencilled bottles were introduced by Noval in the 1920s; Noval in 1958 was the first house to introduce a late-bottled vintage: 1954 Quinta do Noval LBV and pioneered the concept of Old Tawnies with an indication of age (10, 20 and over 40 years).

In exceptional years certain lots of wine with great ageing potential are put aside to spend their lives maturing in barrels. At a given stage, Noval decides to bottle a part of a vintage. The rest is kept in casks where the wine will mature into a new expression at a later stage. Increasingly rare, these wines combine refinement and elegance and are the supreme expression of the old Tawny Ports, and as a Vintage Port will take the specific characteristics of the harvest year. Legislation requires a minimum ageing period of 7 years in casks. At Quinta do Noval, Colheitas are commercialized after maturing for 10 to 12 years.

António Agrellos, the Technical Director of Quinta do Noval since 1994 and one of the greatest Port wine blenders led us on a fantastic tour of some of the best Quinta do Noval Colheitas.

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Quinta do Noval Colheita 2000 © Blend All About Wine, Lda

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Quinta do Noval Colheita 1995 © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Quinta do Noval Colheita 2000

Displays all the class of a young Tawny, full of life, teen spirit, conquering us by its vitality and presence. Shows an attractive complexity with an intense and mature bouquet, candied fruit, youthful, clean and invigorating. Sweet and complex on the palate, elegant structure, with a persistent finish.

Quinta do Noval Colheita 1995

A tawny port in the path to adulthood, in a new fuller dimension, more evolved and of greater complexity and profundity. Very well defined set of aromas with a beautiful complexity, caramel, dried fruits (Walnuts and hazelnuts), sweet spice, candied fruit (orange, lemon, peach). Medium body, elegant, light greasiness with good acidity, lingering finish.

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Quinta do Noval Colheita 1976 © Blend All About Wine, Lda

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Quinta do Noval Colheita 1971 © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Quinta do Noval Colheita 1976

A very temperamental wine, born in the Punk Rock era, wrapped in rebelliousness and certainly the most exotic from this session in the best Ramones style. Hey! Ho! Let’s go! The Anthology. With a very good complexity, cigar box, resin, dried fruit, caramel. Medium-bodied and deliciously concentrated in the mouth, smooth as silk, with hints of spice. Long finish.

Quinta do Noval Colheita 1971

“Saudade” expresses a very peculiar feeling, when we miss something we like. This wine is one of those things. Pure sex appeal, beautifully complex, spices, butterscotch, raisins and dried fruits, some honey and tea aromas. The mouthfeel is amazingly rich yet elegant, wonderful freshness with exotic spice, long and persistent finish. A wonderful wine!

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Quinta do Noval Colheita 1964 © Blend All About Wine, Lda

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Quinta do Noval Colheita 1937 © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Quinta do Noval Colheita 1964

As in 1964 the Beatles or The Rolling Stones fans leaped and shouted with enthusiasm, tasting this wine I felt like doing exactly the same thing. Intriguing and at the same time a conqueror, highly refined and delicate aroma, nutty, raisins and soft undertones of caramel, old cask. Almost velvet in the mouth, bold and tasty with great freshness for its age, very long finish. Spectacular!

Quinta do Noval Colheita 1937

The year 1937 was marked by the coronation of King George VI of England, at the same time the San Francisco Bay’s Golden Gate Bridge was inaugurated and J. R. R. Tolkien published The Hobbit. Only a wine such as this could honor events like these. A remarkable old tawny, amazing complexity, dried fruit, great definition, wonderful richness, spices, marmalade, old wood, cigar box. Luxurious palate that melts with a very good integrated acidity which gives a perfect balance, layers of flavor leading to an endless and seductive finish.

Contacts
Quinta do Noval Vinhos, SA
AV. DIOGO LEITE, 256
4400 – 111 VILA NOVA DE GAIA
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 223 770 270
Fax: (+351) 223 750 365
E-mail: noval@quintadonoval.pt
Website: www.quintadonoval.com

Morgadio da Calçada, from Provesende to the world

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

In the peacefulness of the picturesque village of Provesende (Douro) reigns a cozy atmosphere, full of tradition.

The fresh and clean morning air is taken by the smell of baked bread that travels the streets and guides us to an obligatory visit to the bakery. One of the most ancient manors in the village is Casa da Calçada, a stately Douro manor whose foundation dates back to the sixteenth century belonging to Morgado da Calçada, built in the late seventeenth century by Judge Jerónimo da Cunha Pimentel and remaining in the family until the present day.

Manuel Villas-Boas opens the gate that gives way to a set of old farm buildings, recent objects of deep and careful rehabilitation, which resulted in a beautiful wine tourism unit. In total, there are eight bedrooms and swimming pool, where good taste is allied with tradition and a needed slight touch of modernity. If we combine all this with the art of hospitality of Manuel Villas-Boas and the regional cuisine, the only thing left is to approach the beautiful wines that are produced there.

Casa da Calçada – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

In fact wine has always been part of the history of that house. A visit to the old cellar only confirms this with the presence of stately and historic wooden casks. The approximately 4.5 hectares of vines live alongside the house. Their conversion began in 1980 ending around the 90s. The vineyard is divided into three parts: the oldest with more than 100 years, one of white grapes about 2.5 hectares long and around 20 years old and the other red varieties of approximate 30 years of age. It was then that the partnership Casa da Calçada – Niepoort was created with the emergence of Morgadio da Calçada. The entire winemaking process is handled on Quinta de Nápoles (Niepoort). No detail has been left to chance, the design of the labels has the signature of the architect Siza Vieira for table wines and the architect Michel Toussaint for Port wines. Dirk Niepoort is an admirer of the vineyards of Provesende, creating wines of great freshness and elegance helped by the 600 meters of altitude and the broad temperature range. In tasting, none of them are marked by oak and all show a huge gastronomic appetite.

Morgadio da Calçada White 2012, Douro – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Morgadio da Calçada White 2012, Douro

Consequence of a great year, in it reigns the cleanness and freshness of ripe fruit (citrus, white plum, pear) of great quality. Only 60% of the blend went through oak in a very new and energetic set, dominated by mineral austerity in the background. Elegant taste in mouth, fruit present with harmony, some oak toast with freshness to involve the whole set.

Morgadio da Calçada Reserva White 2010, Douro

A wine that grows with time in the glass, benefits if decanted, showing an exquisite bouquet with fruit present (citrus, white plum), complex, elegant and inviting. 100% passed through oak, gaining some heaviness in a more structured and profound, complex and serious profile than his younger brother. Very good presence in mouth, with mild creaminess, full fruit flavor in a spicy, mineral, lingering finish.

Morgadio da Calçada Red 2004, Douro – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Morgadio da Calçada Red 2011, Douro

Aged in used barrels, discreet oak sustains a set dominated by fresh red/black fruit (berries, raspberry) gluttonous with mild sweetness, a hint of smoke and cocoa. Very elegant, with good structure, palate full of freshness and fruit, engaging finish with slight dryness.

Morgadio da Calçada Red 2004, Douro

It was the first red of Morgadio da Calçada, simply delicious, captivates immediately. The clean fruit, ripe and very well defined, is shown bathed in a cape of mild sweetness, wrapped in freshness and complexity, spices, cistus, cocoa, deep and conversationalist. Full of flavor and freshness, soft on the palate, very refined, light trace of vegetable and spice in the mouth, long and persistent finish. Very good.

Morgadio da Calçada Reserva Red 2007, Douro

The Reserva born from the best grapes from the oldest vines is serious and complex, a slight austerity is felt so characteristic of red Douro, asking for time. Expressive fruit (cherries, blackberries) with notes of cistus, spice, notes of liquor, mineral, elegant and soft on the palate. Tasty with rich texture, freshness and depth, in a red of excellence and class.

Contacts
Largo da Calçada | Provesende
5060-251 Sabrosa (Portugal)
Tel: (+351) 254 732 218
Mobile: (+ 351) 915 347 555
E-mail: mvb@morgadiodacalcada.com
Website: www.morgadiodacalcada.com