Filipa Pato: A Wine grower, not a Winemaker Casas do Côro – (De)light of Marialva

Morgadio da Calçada, from Provesende to the world

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

In the peacefulness of the picturesque village of Provesende (Douro) reigns a cozy atmosphere, full of tradition.

The fresh and clean morning air is taken by the smell of baked bread that travels the streets and guides us to an obligatory visit to the bakery. One of the most ancient manors in the village is Casa da Calçada, a stately Douro manor whose foundation dates back to the sixteenth century belonging to Morgado da Calçada, built in the late seventeenth century by Judge Jerónimo da Cunha Pimentel and remaining in the family until the present day.

Manuel Villas-Boas opens the gate that gives way to a set of old farm buildings, recent objects of deep and careful rehabilitation, which resulted in a beautiful wine tourism unit. In total, there are eight bedrooms and swimming pool, where good taste is allied with tradition and a needed slight touch of modernity. If we combine all this with the art of hospitality of Manuel Villas-Boas and the regional cuisine, the only thing left is to approach the beautiful wines that are produced there.

Casa da Calçada – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

In fact wine has always been part of the history of that house. A visit to the old cellar only confirms this with the presence of stately and historic wooden casks. The approximately 4.5 hectares of vines live alongside the house. Their conversion began in 1980 ending around the 90s. The vineyard is divided into three parts: the oldest with more than 100 years, one of white grapes about 2.5 hectares long and around 20 years old and the other red varieties of approximate 30 years of age. It was then that the partnership Casa da Calçada – Niepoort was created with the emergence of Morgadio da Calçada. The entire winemaking process is handled on Quinta de Nápoles (Niepoort). No detail has been left to chance, the design of the labels has the signature of the architect Siza Vieira for table wines and the architect Michel Toussaint for Port wines. Dirk Niepoort is an admirer of the vineyards of Provesende, creating wines of great freshness and elegance helped by the 600 meters of altitude and the broad temperature range. In tasting, none of them are marked by oak and all show a huge gastronomic appetite.

Morgadio da Calçada White 2012, Douro – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Morgadio da Calçada White 2012, Douro

Consequence of a great year, in it reigns the cleanness and freshness of ripe fruit (citrus, white plum, pear) of great quality. Only 60% of the blend went through oak in a very new and energetic set, dominated by mineral austerity in the background. Elegant taste in mouth, fruit present with harmony, some oak toast with freshness to involve the whole set.

Morgadio da Calçada Reserva White 2010, Douro

A wine that grows with time in the glass, benefits if decanted, showing an exquisite bouquet with fruit present (citrus, white plum), complex, elegant and inviting. 100% passed through oak, gaining some heaviness in a more structured and profound, complex and serious profile than his younger brother. Very good presence in mouth, with mild creaminess, full fruit flavor in a spicy, mineral, lingering finish.

Morgadio da Calçada Red 2004, Douro – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Morgadio da Calçada Red 2011, Douro

Aged in used barrels, discreet oak sustains a set dominated by fresh red/black fruit (berries, raspberry) gluttonous with mild sweetness, a hint of smoke and cocoa. Very elegant, with good structure, palate full of freshness and fruit, engaging finish with slight dryness.

Morgadio da Calçada Red 2004, Douro

It was the first red of Morgadio da Calçada, simply delicious, captivates immediately. The clean fruit, ripe and very well defined, is shown bathed in a cape of mild sweetness, wrapped in freshness and complexity, spices, cistus, cocoa, deep and conversationalist. Full of flavor and freshness, soft on the palate, very refined, light trace of vegetable and spice in the mouth, long and persistent finish. Very good.

Morgadio da Calçada Reserva Red 2007, Douro

The Reserva born from the best grapes from the oldest vines is serious and complex, a slight austerity is felt so characteristic of red Douro, asking for time. Expressive fruit (cherries, blackberries) with notes of cistus, spice, notes of liquor, mineral, elegant and soft on the palate. Tasty with rich texture, freshness and depth, in a red of excellence and class.

Largo da Calçada | Provesende
5060-251 Sabrosa (Portugal)
Tel: (+351) 254 732 218
Mobile: (+ 351) 915 347 555

About João Pedro Carvalho
Wine Writer Blend | All About Wine

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