Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

I am celebrating the beginning of the summer with this white; a pure Verdelho from Madeira Island, produced by Paixão do Vinho. Upon a visit to Adega de São Vicente (Adega = Cellar), I had the chance to taste it while it was still very young, yet already proving very promising; it had this austerity from the volcanic grounds as well as all the freshness in the Atlantic, which is so close to the vineyards. This wasn’t the first Verdelho Filipe Santos released into the market, but after a few breaks between harvests, this new sample came out with a new label.

This week, the heat came with a bang; the rain quickly evaporated into more or less 40ºC, and the changes in what we eat and drink round this time of year were quite obvious. The reds are put on the shelf and an incredible twirl of whites and rosés starts to flow, perhaps some bubbly once in a while. All are served very cold, and with light food because nobody likes to stand in front of a hot cooker for very long.

I had already put the said wine in the fridge, but before I started cooking I couldn’t resist a taste, just to make sure I had the right tone for the food. My memory suggested a mythical Arroz de Lapas (rice with limpets) I once tasted in Madeira. I was, however, limited to local produce, so I went for a typical meal in the Algarve, Arroz de Lingueirão (rice with solen). While the solen cooked, and until its shells cracked open, I took a few sips from that taster glass. I like to drink while I cook, because getting better acquainted with the wine helps me balance out the food and create the best harmony possible.

Arroz de Lingueirão in oficinadaspapitas.blogs.sapo.pt

Primeira Paixão Verdelho 2014 – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

The steps are quite basic: after removing the solen from the shells, clean it, slice it into two and put it aside. In the meantime, bring the onion, garlic, bay-leaf and olive-oil to a light fry. Once it’s au point, add the chopped tomato and tomato pulp, let it simmer and add some water to the boiled solen. The tomato is an important touch, adding freshness to the dish along with the pulp, which will turn into sauce. This food should ideally be taken with a wine with enough structure and acidity for it. Then, you prepare the rice, and just a moment before it’s ready, add the solen and garnish with chopped coriander.

This Verdelho carries a light saline feel and some very well outlined but not over-exuberant fruit (citrus and passion fruit). This results in a white with a bite, of very good freshness, and implying excellent bottle ageing. It’s remarkable how it bonds with the many ways in which fish or seafood can be cooked; the acidity in it reinvigorates the palate with every sip. By the way, that little bit of coriander in the end is a little magic touch that enhances the connection between the wine and the food, sending it into another dimension of senses and pleasures. This is such a good way to start the summer.

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