Blend All About Wine Arquivo de Wines - Page 2 of 2

Alambre 20 Years … The magic of the Moscatel of Setúbal

June 19, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Portugal is the only country in the World able to put on the same table three World-class generous wines, from three fantastic and unique regions. I’m talking about Port Wine, Madeira Wine and of course the Moscatel of Setúbal.
In the case of the Moscatel of Setúbal it’s a generous wine with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) recognized since 1907. However, at José Maria da Fonseca, the production of these wines dates back to 1834 which allows it to have a unique heritage of Moscatel wines in stock.

The Alambre 20 Years are elaborated from the Moscatel grape variety planted in clay-limestone soils. From its annual production part of it is intended for a more prolonged aging in wooden casks using the mythical Cellar of Teares Velhos (Vila Nogueira de Azeitão).
The wine in question is a mandatory reference and one of my favorites, having an indisputable place among the best sweet wines of Portugal, with a price around € 24, it gives you an enviable price/satisfaction ratio. The result of a set of great Moscatel, aged and blended with skill, the result is a blend of 19 harvests in which the newest is at least 20 years old and the oldest is close to 80 years.
A very complex and intense wine, with elegant notes of dried fruit, candied orange and honey. Noble volatile acidity, wrapped in freshness and harmony. Mouth with great presence, unctuosity side by side with great freshness, soft taste with molasses and fruit and a wonderful finish. It is a perfect match for a good dark chocolate with orange or simply to end a dinner among friends in great class.

Contacts
José Maria da Fonseca, S.A.
Quinta da Bassaqueira, Estrada Nacional 10
2925-542, Vila Nogueira de Azeitão, Setúbal, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 212 197 500
Email: info@jmf.pt
Site: www.jmf.pt

The Javali (wild boar) terroir…

June 17, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

The Douro has been one of Portugal’s wine regions with more media coverage lately, where there are many Quintas of undeniable historical importance in the sector of Port Wine and that most recently have gained notoriety as producing still and sparkling wine (table wine). Trying to discover a latest project that distinguishes itself above all by the quality of table wines without having the weight of history falling back on their vineyards will not be easy but won’t be impossible either.

Proof of this is the Sociedade Agrícola Quinta do Javali, a family-owned company founded in 2000 with the objective of producing and marketing (it exports 80% of its production) their own wines DOC Douro and Port. Located on the left bank of the Douro River in Nagoselo do Douro, São João da Pesqueira (Cima Corgo). The Quinta do Javali saw 10 of its 20 hectares being replanted with the grape varieties of the region: Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão, Tinta Barroca and Touriga Nacional.

The owner and winemaker, José António Mendes is passionate about his work, you can see the brightness in his eyes when the conversation shifts and we are talking about their wines. While we are tasting the new releases from Quinta do Javali, António explains that he tries to do all the work in the vineyard, avoiding interfering with the winery, the yeasts are indigenous, the wines are all made of mill with foot treading and combine power with an incredible freshness. We don’t find here easy wines with the capacity of an immediate satisfaction, they require patience, showing a greater density, layers of flavors and aromas, freshness with structured tannins still present that makes decanting almost compulsory.

Quinta dos Lobatos 2013 (DOC Douro)
Just launched on the market, austere with lots of mature fruit, nuts with some jam, but all very clean, spicy, note of herbs, fleshy, wins with time in the glass. Mouth full of force and freshness with the fruit to explode with flavor, dryness in the end, black pepper, minerality with a very good finish.

Quinta do Javali Reserva 2011 (DOC Douro)

Spends 18 months in barrel, more impressive than the Quinta de Lobatos, more integrated barrel despite the might of the cocoa and tobacco, shows fruit jam, floral and sweet spices. Mouth with elegance allowed by tannins wrapped in structure dominated by mature fruit, fresh, conqueror with less austerity.

Quinta do Javali Touriga Nacional 2012 (DOC Douro)

With a very limited edition (600 bottles) the wine is a provocation to the senses, fruit marked by freshness and great quality, lightweight marmalade, the perfume of violets and herbs, tobacco, pepper, complex, ambitious, compact and provocative. Mouth full of freshness and flavor, tasty, fills the entire palate in a wide structure in a grand finish.

Quinta do Javali Vinhas Velhas 2011 (DOC Douro)

This wine is a true juggernaut. Arrives in breathtaking quality, dominates us completely and shows in the nose all the good austerity of the Douro. Firm structure and very good wood that sustains without excesses (20 months in barrel), fruit very clean and juicy with balsamic, spices and notes of vanilla, dark chocolate. Huge force and complexity, with layers of aromas and flavors, firm without shaking, it feeds on time in the glass or decanter, grows, gains new forms but always tense, always new. In the mouth it is fresh and broad, fruit that is chewed, tasty, energetic and great dryness in the long and persistent finish.

Quinta do Javali Special Cuvée 2012 (DOC Douro)

This wine is a taste of luxury, softer and more delicate than the Vinhas Velhas, conquests by finesse, complexity and at the same time follows the same energy so characteristic of the wines of this Quinta. The most striking is the delicate and beautiful floral perfume that shows next to blackcurrants and raspberries very fresh and clean, almost flavors in HD, almost rounded corners with a smoked touch and some vanilla. In the mouth it shows a beautiful freshness, great harmony with a huge presence on the palate, very long finish.

Quinta do Javali Tawny 20 Years (Porto)
The wine has delicate harmony and a good dose of freshness, you can tell that it does not have the same complexity that comes from a blend with older wines as other 20 Years for sale on the market do. Good dried fruit, candied orange, caramel, all wrapped in a very pleasant long final.

Quinta do Javali LBV Port 2009 (Porto)

Tasting of LBV 07, 08 and 09, the latter was the one that stood out the most, in spite of all of them being at a very good quality level. The 2009 stood out by the greed of fruit with its presence, freshness of a broader set and juicier than the others. In the mouth more presence of jammy fruit, chocolate and mild spices fresh and long finish.

Contacts
Sociedade Agrícola Quinta do Javali
Apartado 71
5130-909 S. João da Pesqueira
Email: antoniomendes@quintadojavali.com
Site: www.quintadojavali.com

The Oenosexual Wines of Quinta das Bágeiras

June 11, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by Ilkka Sirén

Text Ilkka Sirén

Bairrada might be one of the least known wine regions in Portugal. For many it’s just a blackhole on the map. People just don’t seem to know what to expect when drinking a wine from Bairrada. What makes it even more difficult is that the good wines are often not very easy to approach.

The region’s red king grape is Baga which is, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful grape varieties on planet Earth, period. When Baga is well made and slightly aged it can fool anyone in a blind tasting of being a top nebbiolo wine from Piedmont. The whites include Bical and Maria Gomes (Fernão Pires). Bairrada is also known to produce some nice sparkling wine. But if you are searching for character and don’t want to be bored to death by sterile tasting rooms there is one producer in Bairrada which is a must-visit, Quinta das Bágeiras.

blend_all_about_wine_Quinta das Bageiras1

Mário Sérgio Alves Nuno is the owner and winemaker extraordinaire at this unique winery. The first time I met him he sliced and diced an entire suckling pig with these big scissors in front of my eyes and served it to me as lunch. It was love at first sight. By the way, the leitão -suckling pig from Bairrada is extremely delicious. That alone is a good reason to visit the region.

Mário Sérgio produces everything from sparkling wine to reds. He also makes some kickass vinegar which he gave a bottle to me on my last visit. I recently finished the bottle and I almost cried. I need more of it as soon as possible.

His wines are known to be quite good and equipped with distinct personality. If you’re looking for easy-drinking fruit forward wines you should run screaming the other way.

The cellar is full of these tilted stacks of wine that defy gravity. But Mário’s right hand man, the dude with the funny hat, says the stacks never fall. Luckily earthquakes are rare in the area.

Bágeiras is also a part of a group of wineries called Baga Friends that consists of Buçaco, Niepoort, Filipa Pato and a few others. If you’re keen on learning more about Bairrada wines and especially the Baga variety, you should taste through the wines of this gang of talented winemakers.

blend_all_about_wine_Quinta das Bageiras2

Quinta das Bágeiras Branco 2012 Garrafeira
The wine was quite closed at first which didn’t surprise me at all. I’ve learned to expect this kind of slow-release aromas from pretty much all of the Bágeiras wines. After 20 minutes in the glass the wine opened up and became very charming. On the palate the wine is very structured. Superb acidity and flavours of pear and citrus. Definitely an age-worthy wine that you can forget in your cellar for a while. Outstanding.

blend_all_about_wine_Quinta das Bageiras3

Quinta das Bágeiras Pai Abel Branco 2010
The moment I opened the bottle I yelled “meringue!”. This wine has this unmistakable robust and voluptuous aroma that almost reminds me of some Meursault wines. Smells a bit like somebody dropped a haystack on your head and covered your body with sweet apples. Hmm, sounds like a scene from CSI. Maybe I missed my calling as a Hollywood TV writer? Again, mouthwatering acidity and some nutty flavours. The wine is quite rich in texture but in the end very fresh. It already has some age and it seems to be developing quite nicely but could still go for a decade or so.

blend_all_about_wine_Quinta das Bageiras4

Contacts
Mário Sérgio Alves Nuno
Fogueira – 3780-523 Sangalhos
Bairrada – Portugal
Tel: +351 234 742 102
Fax: +351 234 738 117
Site: www.quintadasbageiras.pt/
Email: quintadasbageiras@mail.telepac.pt

Terras de Tavares – The Dão of João

May 30, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho

The Quinta da Boavista, belongs to the family Tavares de Pina, where they produce the wines Terras de Tavares and Torre de Tavares. It is situated in the Demarcated Region of Dão, Penalva do Castelo between the Terras de Penalva and the Terras de Tavares, at an altitude of approximately 450m.

The Quinta da Boavista dates from the late 18th century and had the vineyard as their main activity. Today they breed horses (Lusitano), but also the famous Serra da Estrela cheese is produced there. The approximately 7ha of vineyard in soils of transition schist-granite of great depth and high clay content give the wines very special characteristics.

Blend_All_About_Wine_Terras_de_tavares_Landscape

The grapes that were previously sold to the local Cooperative, originated in 1997 the first Terra de Tavares, considered today as one of the best wines from this producer. Only in 2005 did they begin to be vinified in Quinta da Boavista. Before that they only blended all the production that afterwards was made at Quinta da Murqueira.

At Quinta da Boavista, João Tavares de Pina a long-time friend and a passionate producer of the region, with all the irreverence that characterizes him, is creating the tastiest wines full of identity, with a strong connection with the land, mirrors of each harvest that are only released to the market when he considers them to be suitable for consumption.

He doesn’t look for easy satisfaction, the wines are made in his image, with a very well integrated wood, prolonged stages in the bottle. All of his wines are very gastronomic and lovers of a good conversation, clearly marked by the soul of the region in avery own imprint that João is intended to improve harvest after harvest.

In conversation we learn that João has a very special affection for Jaen, which he considers to be of enormous potential, adding also the Tinta Pinheira and Touriga Nacional. João soureced in Quinta da Lomba (Gouveia) the grapes used to produce his white wines based on Encruzado, Cerceal and Síria. However, the vines were sold so we will have to wait perhaps until 2015 for a new Torre de Tavares white.

On a recent visit to the Quinta da Boavista, I took the opportunity to enjoy the fantastic winetourism and the excellent regional cuisine that João Tavares de Pina prepares to accompany his wines. I regret not having taken my swim trunks to take a dip in the fantastic pool. Maybe another time.

Starting with the whites, still available on the market:

Torre de Tavares Síria 2009 (Regional Beiras)
The aroma shows notes of very good evolution, medium intensity, flowers, fruit (mandarin, green apple) with a lot of frills and minerality background. Mouth with cohesive structure, very tasty with notes of ripe fruit with a fresh and very mineral finish.

Torre de Tavares Encruzado 2008 (DOC Dão)
Encruzado that was not filtered, shows evolved aroma with complexity, full of details, ripe fruit, yellow flowers with grapefruit and quince, straw, feeling of greasiness with good minerality. Mouth with fruit in syrup, freshness with a hint of minerality in the backdrop.

In the red wines the highlights go to:

Rufia 2012 (DOC Dão)
The Rufia (Thug) was born during the 2009 harvest as a 100% Rufete (Tinta Pinheira), now in the new edition is joined with Touriga Nacional and Jaen. The result is a cheeky and fragrant wine, little consensus due to the herbaceous component (tomato foliage) that is in evidence, although the fruit is present with very good quality and is almost chewable.

Torre de Tavares Jaen 2008 (DOC Dão)
Will go on sale in the coming months, very new but full of charm, so characteristic of the Dão region. In spite of the six years that it already has, it is clean and fresh, full of energy, with a lot of forest fruit, balsamic, pine, cocoa, wood very well integrated with freshness throughout the taste. An explosion of flavor on the palate, freshness with tannins ask for food to be close by with a long and persistent finish. Beautiful Jaen.

Terras de Tavares Jaen 2007 (DOC Dão)
A wine that awakens a smile, very clean and rich in aromas, cohesive and engaging to show the great that it wine is. Aromas characteristic of the Dão region, pine, berries, much freshness always present, cocoa, mineral in the background. Mouth to match, great support structure, very good freshness with the juicy fruit presence, firm tannins with a long spicy finish.

Terras de Tavares Touriga Nacional 2008 (DOC Dão)
A Touriga Nacional more contained and delicate, clean aroma, seductive and fresh, lavender, pine, more herbaceous with ripe fruit well integrated. Mouth well structured to show fruit (cherry) well integrated with wood, balsamic and mineral in the background with tannins still unpolished. Long and persistent finish.

Terras de Tavares 2006 (DOC Dão)
A blend of Touriga Nacional/Jaen with a 3 years stage in cask and later maturing in the bottle. The wine is still very new, full of force and asking for some more time, floral with black fruit, minerality in the background. In the mouth a lot of strength, tannins present, fat fruit, freshness, earthy with a grand final.

Terras de Tavares Reserva 1997 (DOC Dão)
A blend of Jaen/Touriga Nacional with the first dominating to the second, complex and delicate, clean and fragrant, resin, floral, cocoa, gluttonous red fruit (blueberry, cherry) with an earthy and spicy touch. In the mouth it is smooth but firm, long, tamed tannins, very elegant with signs of a classic Dão, it needs time in the glass. Long and persistent finish in a wine which extols its region.

Contacts
Quinta da Boavista – Castelo de Penalva
3550-058 Penalva do Castelo, Portugal
Tel (+351) 91 985 83 40 (João Tavares de Pina)
Email: jtp@quintadaboavista.eu
Site: www.quintadaboavista.eu

Posts Tagged : Wines

Alambre 20 Years … The magic of the Moscatel of Setúbal

The Javali (wild boar) terroir…

The Oenosexual Wines of Quinta das Bágeiras

Terras de Tavares – The Dão of João