Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Grape harvests have started in full swing all over the Douro region, with a hand from the weather. It was in a grape-harvesting atmosphere that we spent our weekend at Real Companhia Velha, comfortably settled in Palácio de Cidrô.

We enjoyed all the architectural beauty, the wonderful gardens, and the silence of the cool nights under clear skies.

A very pleasant “ambulant” dinner party awaited, as it escorted the first and very traditional wines of this company. Shredded codfish, fried codfish buns, thin veggie omelettes, vegetable rice, homemade moist cake and a variety of fruit.

Besides the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sparkling wines (the latter tasted very good), we tasted the traditional whites from Cidrô – Sauvignon-Blanc and Semillon – and the reds Cabernet Sauvignon with Touriga Nacional and Pinot Noir. But a surprise, a Quinta do Cidrô Cabernet Sauvignon, was yet to come… a 1996 still full of life. We ended with Port wine, of course, Colheita 1986, which quickly slipped down our throats.

The next day, after a delicious breakfast, we arrived at Quinta das Carvalhas in two shakes, accompanied by all the beauty of Douro.

And there it was, waiting for us, Sousão vineyard. A herd of grape pickers was already at work; we joined them in the hard task of picking bunches of grapes.

Sousão Vines – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Bucket, gloves and scissors – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

When we arrived, they quickly provided a bucket, gloves and scissors.

Harvest over, we continued going up the hill, stopping here and there as Pedro Silva Reis told us about the constant evolution of the company.

The beauty of the Douro – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The beauty of the Douro – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The more we looked, the more overwhelming Douro became.

When we arrived at Casa Redonda, with that amazing 360º view over the Douro river, our cameras couldn’t stop shooting, “dictated” by the landscape. Miguel Torga would have said: “It’s too much Nature!”

Appetizers – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Quinta das Carvalhas Tinta Francisca – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

A few appetizers awaited, as well as a rich “feijoada à transmontana” (a bean, cabbage and meat stew), one of the most typical meals during the grape-harvesting season.

Lest we forget, the Carvalhas wines in new clothing. Whites full of freshness and excellent acidity, the reds fully bodied, young, with very ripe fruit, amongst them the amazing Tinta Francisca, very elegant, replenished, and exquisite. The wines are really very good, modern and nicely presented. Álvaro caught up with us and amused us with many stories and info about his biggest passion, wine production. But it was time to go to Quinta da Granja in Alijὀ, where the huge cellar was working hard on the harvest.

Sourcing Grapes – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Jorge Moreira – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In the cellar, we picked grapes from a tray as we listened to Jorge Moreira’s explanation, the main oenologist. He even gave us samples from the vats.

Finally, the bravest squashed the grapes of red wine and Port inside the granite winepresses. It was celebration of the harvest. We still had time to taste a meatball and a few glasses of wine before we went back to Cidrô, tired but happy.

All refreshed and buttoned up, we gathered in the first floor palace hall to share some snacks and wines, among which the Evel XXI tasted very good. Very lively, it conveyed finesse to the brand; the Sauvignon-Blanc Cidrô was absolutely delicious as usual. At the wheel, Pedro Silva Reis revealed his good taste and friendliness once more.

Alheira – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Roast Loin – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Sitting at the table, we enjoyed a crispy alheira (garlic sausage) with fried egg and greens, followed by roast loin with roast potatoes.

Quinta das Carvalhas 1997 Vintage Port – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Álvaro’s live music – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

We ended in the best way with a Vintage 1997, which embraced our spirit.

In the background, the happiness in Álvaro’s live music gently rocked us and made us smile…

In the morning, after breakfast – those scrambled eggs with tomato were unbelievable! After that, it was farewell and back home.

I mean, it was a ”See you soon!”

Contacts
Real Companhia Velha
Rua Azevedo Magalhães 314
4430-022 Vila Nova de Gaia
Tel: (+351) 22 377 51 00
Fax: (+351) 22 377 51 90
E-mail: graca@realcompanhiavelha.pt
Website: realcompanhiavelha.pt