Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Alentejo encompasses a significant number of magic places; whether for beautiful scenery, never-ending lands, earth-grown products or historical families and buildings. One specific location in the Estremoz region includes all of the above: Quinta Dona Maria, dating from the 18th Century, which belonged to king D. João V at a point.

Dona Maria, Júlio Bastos – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Entrance – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The current owner, Júlio Bastos, has proven his skills in maintaining the beauty and quality of the facilities, so rich in history, and the magnificent surrounding gardens. His other talent is investing in producing high-quality wines, these days renowned worldwide as deluxe products.

The Beauty – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Quality Facilities – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

It is made from very good grapes of different species, of which Alicante Bouschet stands out amongst the reds. The grapes are prepared in an old cellar – very well restored with beautiful presses made of marble from that region – where they still crush the grapes under their feet. Powerful wines age there – with strong character yet very elegant, with a particular profile and excellent potential to accompany food.

When wine is grown with rigour, vines are well guided and watered by nature, your grapes turn out very sound. Later, they are timely harvested and carefully selected to make wines with the Dona Maria signature.

On our recent visit, we were greeted by oenologist Sandra Gonçalves and the owner, Júlio Bastos. They brought us on a tour of the austere yet beautiful cellar, revealing what grape preparation process lies behind such good wines.

Wood Ceilings – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Old Cement Reservoir – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The cellar’s wood ceilings are fantastic, along with supporting columns with ceramic vaults surrounded by thick stone walls, which also house the old cement reservoirs, still in use after restoration.

In another room, the wines rest in countless French and American oak casks, to be bottled in due time, and then continue ageing for some more months or years. After enlightening explanations about the whole production process, Júlio Bastos invited us into the tasting room where Sandra Gonçalves prepared a tasting guided by the two. Júlio Bastos entertained his usual strict tone, even in regard to his own wines. He was, however, immensely educational regarding Alentejo wines in general, which he knows very well. Before us, eight wines were presented, much to our delight:

Dona Maria white 2014 maintains the tropical aroma profile – quite citrusy, refreshing, of balanced acidity and great volume in the mouth. The Amantis white 2013 let the Viognier species shine. It had very soft tropical notes and some white fruits, with a hint of smoke, balanced acidity keeping it very elegant.

Viognier 2013 still felt very young, combining aromas of white fruits and a light floral scent, but very elegant, with volume in the mouth, full, intense acidity but balanced, with an excellent aftertaste. Next, an amazing Rosé 2013, very balanced, with soft tropical aromas alongside a complex mouth, very refreshing, with notes of tropical fruits, strawberries, jam and acidity that connects all of the above, and a great aftertaste.

Moving onto the reds, Dona Maria Red 2012, a brand with aromas of ripe red fruits, light smoky notes and blackberries. It’s lively in the mouth, with excellent acidity, intense red fruits and good volume, a well-balanced wine. The red Touriga Nacional 2011 reveals the quality in that year’s harvest. The elegant aromas of violet and bergamot with light smoky notes and some spices contrast with the full mouth – velvety, with notes of red fruits and some chocolate, and excellent acidity.

Next was Amantis Red Reserva 2009, a muscular wine, complex, with aromas of ripe dark fruits and refreshing. In the mouth, it’s volumous, maintaining complexity, notes of mint, red fruits and some spices, persistent acidity and a beautiful aftertaste.

For the grand finale, Júlio Bastos opened a bottle of classic from this farm, Quinta do Carmo Garrafeira 1986, previously decanted. It showed violet hues and some brown smatterings, which determined its age; very elegant, a smooth velvety nose and some red fruits. In the mouth, it is delicate, smooth, of deliciously soft tannins, full of complexity, very balanced acidity, persistent, slightly smoked, with a very, very long aftertaste. It gets better if opened a few hours beforehand and proves that Alentejo reds also age well.

Once outside, in the enormous yard, we were “crushed” by the beauty of the main house, which continues on the inside. Its many rooms lead us almost three centuries back. In a corner of a room, through a secret passage, we can almost see D. João 5th walking in for a stealthy visit to D. Maria, the courtier to whom he had gifted Quinta do Carmo…

Contacts
Quinta do Carmo 7100-055 Estremoz
Telefone: (+351) 268 339 150
Fax: (+351) 268 339 155
Email: donamaria@donamaria.pt
Website: donamaria.pt