Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

Following an earlier article, which focused on the topic of white wines produced in Portugal, I shall now highlight two beautiful examples from Bairrada. In an introductory manner, I must say that everybody knows oenologist Osvaldo Amado feels passionate about the Arinto variety; he has felt this way since he worked in the Bucelas region. Now that he has settled in Bairrada, he often introduces his customers to various interesting examples by several producers he works for.

One thing is for certain: the Arinto variety is spread across the Portuguese territory, from Alentejo to Vinho Verde, where they call it Pedernã. However, the best region for it is Bucelas (Lisbon), because although some producers of that region are noted for the quality of their wines, they don’t seem to make much of a stir.

Going back to the main topic, these two wines made by Adega de Cantanhede from Arinto varitey in Bairrada have briefly been put in wooden casks as part of Osvaldo Amado’s competent care. The first is Marquês de Marialva Reserva Arinto 2013, winner of the 4^th Competition of Bairrada Wines and Sparkling Wines. 30% of its share fermented in new casks, which results in a captivating wine, given the combination of fresh fruit (lime, grapefruit) with a hint of vegetable, in a very stark profile embraced by the slightly oily feeling the wood conveys. Rather tense and mineral in depth, this wine slips pleasantly and tastefully through the mouth. A medium body, not as vigorous as the nose tasting suggested, but quite refreshing and with a dry finish.

The Marquês de Marialva Arinto Grand Reserva 2012 is the new top-of-the-range white by Adega de Cantanhede, and was only bottled in 2014. A broad glass is recommended, because this wine likes to stretch its legs while unwrapping its charms, bonding with you straight away. It shows that it has been in a cask, but the fruit is what affects you most – scented and very fresh, very well outlined with hints of lemon, lime and jellied orange. Broad, with great complexity, captivating you with every twirl in the glass, the variety always present. In the mouth, it’s cohesive, ample and fresh, with a slightly oily touch embracing a body of fresh and juicy albeit delicate fruit, with a soft mineral austerity in the background – a pleasure, no doubt.

Contacts
Adega Cooperativa de Cantanhede, C.R.L.
Rua Eng. Amaro da Costa, Nº117
3060-170 Cantanhede Bairrada – Portugal
Tel: (+351) 231 419 540
Fax: (+351) 231 420 768
E-Mail: geral@cantanhede.com
Website: www.cantanhede.com