Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

A typical tavern since the 40s, after appropriate remodelling, Taberna Ó Balcão was opened in 2013 and is owned by Chef Rodrigo Castelo, born in Santarém. He was a bullfighter for more than a decade in Aposento da Moita and briefly worked in the Pharmaceutical industry, but his true passion since he was a child was cooking. Thus, his project was born – a breath of fresh air for the city, crowned with the Revelation Award at Tejo Gourmet – 5^th Competition in Delicacies and Tejo Wines.

This place is friendly; we feel surrounded by memories of a distant past, in an amusing décor inspired by old taverns of stone-top tables. With only a few free seats, this place is close to becoming a cult restaurant – the kind that know how to serve and make us feel comfortable up until the real feast. Because that is chef Rodrigo’s kitchen, shining above everything else.

This inspired kitchen respects local produce, invoking taste at its simplest. The menu has as much variety as it has taste. Rodrigo Castelo explains how one can recreate regional meals while respecting produce and the original recipe even more so. That is what he does, and to an excellent result, because he does not add anything but his own special touch to a quality product. This usually results in very high levels of satisfaction and quality.

The chef presented us with an entire lunch, a true wild feast of scents and flavours. It started with delicious Oxtail Croquettes – shredded meat and excellent seasoning – followed by Quail Thighs with a reduction of fortified wine – tender and juicy. The entrée was Rabbit in Pickling Brine, with a two-day old pickling brine, very finely shredded rabbit and a slice of dehydrated apple to garnish – very good contrast. The first main course was fish. I congratulate the River Fish Soup With Roe; very fresh. The fish in the spotlight, the herbs and soft spice to regulate, and the roe to add body. The highlight of the meal was Large Mullet Loin with River Cockle Rice. Ribatejo large mullet is in the grey mullet family and fries very well. Its loins were breaded in a crunchy crust, leaving a juicy and tasty interior. The River Cockles were less salty and of a lower calibre. They revealed a delicate flavour and tasted excellent alongside the fish. To cleanse the palate, we were served a shot of Tangerine with Sichuan pepper. It did an efficient job of handing the stage over to the meat.

Comforting and delicate are my adjectives for the Bone Soup – a velvety soup with just the right flavours of notable palate; an excellent reinterpretation and another great moment. Next, the Steer Lombeta (a small cut of meat between the hand and the chest) with a reduction of the Juices in coloured mustard and sweet potato; sliced, very tender and flavoured. Lastly, Alentejo-style steer stew, with no stock or potato, as they do in Alentejo.

In the end, you get the feeling of a great experience, simple food of regional flavour, with chef Rodrigo Castelo’s notorious touch. A place to visit and to remember; it has everything it takes to become an icon of this city and of the entire region. The staff get an A for always being friendly and attentive.

Contacts
Taberna Ó Balcão
Rua Pedro Santarém 23
2000-223 SANTARÉM
Tel: (+351) 243 055 883
E-mail: castelo.rodrigo@gmail.com
Facebook: facebook.com/tabernaobalcao