Text José Silva | Translation Bruno Ferreira
Madeira in general and Funchal in particular, have always had reputation of good cooking practices, mostly by their use of vegetables, fish, shellfish, meat and local fruits (many of them clearly tropical). Influenced by its African coast proximity, this warm, moist and pleasant climate is also fundamental for Madeira wines’ evolution. On another hand, Madeira wines have extraordinarily evolved, either the traditional fortified wines (nowadays affordable and more elegant, ready to drink earlier and starting to be appreciated by a younger public) and still wines (mostly whites which are already comparable to its counterparts from the mainland and even some reds which are starting to emerge and provide some pleasure).
Presently Madeira wines aren’t tourism exclusive anymore, even though tourists are appreciating and buying them more. Madeira wines are now starting to be appreciated and discovered by Portuguese people (Madeira and mainland inhabitants). In spite of having great tradition and the condition of “the older the better”, it’s already apt to be consumed while young – now 5 years’ Madeiras or even 3 years’ Madeiras are liqueur wines perfectly affordable, quite pleasant and that can take part in great, fresh, young and tasty cocktails. Oh, and modern too!
And, even though the long time referenced restaurants still work, new ones are opening, some modern, others keeping rustic traces of old buildings. But in general presenting great quality food.
On one of Funchal’s streets with greater restaurants concentration, in the historical area and close to the municipal market we visited one of the most popular restaurants in Funchal. This restaurant serves great quality food which is based off of well manufactured regional products.
It’s a rustic space with various rooms including one at the back which is also an esplanade. There’s also an esplanade in front of the restaurant, on the street.
Dark stone walls, well decorated and of nice effect giving it a rustic ambience but very cozy. Well-set tables, with well-formed and well-managed staff providing an impeccable and thoughtful service.
On the way in we can find a showcase of fresh fish and shellfish from which we can choose at the table what we want to eat. This showcase is daily renewed. For Blend’s visit a menu including good harmonizing Madeira wines was prepared.
We started with caco cake, tasty and warm Madeira’s traditional bread along with garlic butter. Madeira Sercial 5 anos was served. Next a mix of marinated limpets, octopus carpaccio in virgin olive oil and flower salt, marinated codfish and marinated blue jack mackerel fillets. An excellent flavors variety.
The suggested wine was “Primeira Paixão Rosé” which showed to be a good choice, full of fruit, dry and elegant. The fish dish was mini tuna ventresca along with mini swordfish in “ajada” sauce. Both of them quite good and accompanied by the white wine “Palmeira e Voltas”, fresh and with great acidity. Full of elegance.
Lemon sorbet to clean the palate and serving as connection to the meat dish which was also a duet: Cow mini espetada on laurel stick and “Carne de Vinha D’alhos”, quite tasty.
This meats were accompanied by the wine “Primeira Paixão Tinto” which shows that Madeira is already producing table reds worthy to take note of.
This wonderful meal got to a closure with a duo of passion fruit Cassata and Pitanga mousse, harmonized with “Madeira Boal 5 anos” – an elegant and tasty ending worthy of a toast to Madeira, its wines and excellence of regional food.
Contacts
TABERNA DA ESQUINA
Rua de Santa Maria, 119 – 9060-291 – Funchal
Tel: (+351) 291 231 720
E-Mail:info@tabesquina.com
Site: www.tabesquina.com
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