Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

Humanity is thankful for how much of “the best wine in the world” there is. Between independent countries, very autonomous territories and unrecognised states, one can count 197 countries. Amongst the latter, perhaps Santa Sé is singled out for not having a single vine, or for not producing even one quarter of a litre of wine.

In total, there must be one million of “the best wine in the world”, a democratic title. From farmers with as little as 0.50 acres of land and “the purest wine” to a tycoon with money to spare, both can make some.

One man – who stood up to life and came out winning – has a much more sensible ambition: to make one of the best wines in the Douro Valley. I am thinking of Roger Zannier. He has made a fortune in the clothing industry, he respects and appreciates wine, and he has another piece of land in France, in Côtes de Provence – Château Saint-Maur (Cru Classe).

Contrary to others, including those applying to be the makers of “the best wine in the world”, Roger Zannier is not in a hurry. He has set a deadline – not yesterday nor tomorrow, a healthy eight years from now – which puts the pressure on.

He hasn’t hired a “flying oenologist”, but someone youthful, who brings in fresh blood, renowned skills and expertise in the region. Hence, João Nicolau de Almeida (son) is in charge of the project.

The company has presented its wines in Lisbon: Aluzé White 2013, Aluzé Red 2011, Quinta do Pessegueiro Red 2011 and Quinta do Pessegueiro Vintage Port 2012. They have reached a goal not easy for many: connecting all of their wines to a particular feature; a transverse profile that breathes the spirit of the house.

The aromatic freshness is a common feature to all. In the mouth, that pleasant feeling lingers, adding to it – the almost compulsory – great elegance, with depth and persistence. The four table wines require food. Judging by its elegance and softness, I believe sophisticated cuisine will do it justice. Not to imply that local cuisine would be unsuitable. What the wine intends to express is the mix of these nectars, comprising the Douro DNA, delicacies and genetics common to all, albeit developed in a quaint fashion.

Although a plate of food must sit beside a glass of this wine, Aluzé make excellent company when all you feel like is a chat…

João Nicolau de Almeida made his big entrance by bottling his first vintage. Quinta de Pessegueiro Vintage Port 2012 is doing very well. However, there is a long way to go. The world won’t end tomorrow, and besides, vintage wines are nature’s whims, not man’s will… There is plenty of time, one must know to rise to the occasion.

One good point is the architectural quality of the buildings, the restoration of the house and the new cellar, with the touch of architects Artur Miranda and Jacques Bec. This is not just a detail! The functional buildings – whether for accommodation, passing wine tourism, hospitality, catering or manufacturing – they act as a business card.

Unfortunately, only a few producers invest in good architecture. There is no need to hire Norman Foster, Frank Ghery, Santiago Calatrava or Siza Vieira; many Portuguese architects, even young ones, are very able to design unique pieces. Another lesson by Roger Zannier.

Contacts
Quinta do Pessegueiro
Sociedade Agrícola e Comercial, Lda
5130-114 Ervedosa do Douro, Portugal
Tel : (+351) 254 422 081
Fax : (+351) 254 422 078
E-mail: quintadopessegueiro@zannier.com
Website: www.quintadopessegueiro.com