Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

Bairrada looks different. In the kingdom of the Baga grape, winds of change begin to blow as part of the new producers veer away from the more traditional register, which may, in turn, have driven away many wine consumers in the region. In fact, the more classic profile of Bairrada doesn’t always charm you right from the start. Most of the time, it needs to be kept for a while, which usually is not what consumers these days have in mind. Someone who buys a wine wants to enjoy it as much and as immediately as possible. Therefore, there is a demand for ready-to-drink wines, whose profile is more in tune with the modern times, and all this without tampering with the region’s identity/image.

Presently, few producers are proud of preserving that classic profile which brought the region its fame, while others endeavour by taking their wines down a path of different scents and flavours, and betting on grape varieties renowned worldwide, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as the more traditional Bical, Arinto, Maria Gomes and Baga.

The brand ‘Quinta do Ortigão’ emerged in early 2001 when the family made a decision. Taking knowledge that goes back three generations, they enhanced their business with a modern cellar of decent size. I had the opportunity to taste this producer’s last two releases. Their wines are created by renowned oenologist Osvaldo Amado.

Quinta do Ortigão Arinto/Bical 2014 wine proves to be very precise in its aromas, highlighting the fruit, which is revealed ripe and clean; citrus, white-pulp fruit, floral scent mixing in with a hint of mineral that dominates the entire background. In itself, it’s very enjoyable. In the palate, however, it becomes even more convincing and delightful, its freshness enhanced and maintaining a firm structure. The perfect pair for, say, a spaghetti marinara.

Once we taste Ortigão Reserva 2010, we no longer have a Bairrada, but a Regional Beira Atlântico;. It aged in new Portuguese oak casks for 9 months. The result is a very tempting wine – inviting and easy to like. Everything is in its right place; nothing stands out and nothing is out of context. Ripe striking fruit slightly rounded by the wood. With its beautiful complexity, it ads yet a light pinch of something vegetable, accompanied by spices in the background. In the mouth, the potential for food is revealed in the first sip; a healthy small speck of austerity, and fruit exploding in a long finish with a good dose of spices, where freshness makes its mark. It pleased everyone at the table, making an especially strong bond with the classic Shepherd’s Pie.

For more Quinta do Ortigão wines check Ilkka’s Sírén’s previous article here.

Contacts
Apartado 119, 3780-227 Anadia
Tel: (+351) 231 503 209
E-mail: allemos@quintadoortigao.com
Facebook: facebook.com/Quinta-do-Ortigão
Site: www.quintadoortigao.com