Quinta do Cume looking down at Provesende… Craving for Crayfish

Quinta de La Rosa – concentrated and elegant wines

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Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

The Bergqvist Family arrived in Portugal to produce paper pulp from pinewood. They settled in Albergaria da Serra, beside River Caima, near Constância upon Tagus River. Later on they started using Eucalyptus wood instead.

Swedish engineer, D.E. Bergqvist, soon found out where Oporto town was and eventually got married to Claire Feueheerd, who came from a family in the Port wine business since 1815. Quinta de La Rosa, near Pinhão, was offered as a present to the object of the expert’s affection.

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Quinta de La Rosa – Photo Provided by Quinta de La Rosa | All Rights Reserved

1815 is an important year, because it was when The Battle of Waterloo took place, and with it Napoleon´s Empire ended. The ancestor Feueheerd came to Oporto because he needed to start a new life, and once he had supported the French Emperor while a politician in the hanseatic free town of Bremen. Coincidently, he walked into a country that had fought against France and he settled in a town where British people had a strong influence over business.

The property was called Quinta dos Bateiros and on the other side was the Quinta das Bateiras. Of course a present must be unique, mostly as far as its name is concerned. So why La Rosa? A property in Douro Region with a Castilian name? Especially considering the different origins of the family… Sophia Bergqvist’s father, who runs the business nowadays, had the copyrights of a brand of sherry called La Rosa. I must also make clear that the article «La» was of general use in Portuguese for centuries like in the famous nau (Portuguese sailing ship) «Flor de La Mar», which sank in 1512 carrying a huge treasure with it.

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Sophia and Tim Bergqvist – Photo Provided by Quinta de La Rosa | All Rights Reserved

That time is far away in the past and it would take hours to recollect. The more recent story of Quinta de La Rosa has a landmark, in 1988, when it produced its first wine. Before that, the Bergqvists used to sell their grapes to the Sandeman Family – a business agreement started in 1938. Only in 1985 did they begin preparing Port wine in the Douro region; it was no longer compulsory to make it in Gaia. However, “the first «real» Port wine dates back to 1991”, says Sophia Bergqvist.

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Quinta de La Rosa steep vines – Photo Provided by Quinta de La Rosa | All Rights Reserved

Quinta de La Rosa is very steep and has different levels of exposure to the sun. The combination of the different factors – light, temperature and altitude – adds to the complexity of its wines. Jorge Moreira, the oenologist, assures that the wines there can’t be but very concentrated because it’s nature’s way.

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Jorge Moreira – Photo Provided by Quinta de La Rosa | All Rights Reserved

In my opinion, although the whites prove to be of high quality, the reds have an advantage. Quinta da La Rosa white 2014 translates into minerality, notes of green lemon peels and not very ripe pear. This lot is composed of Gouveio, Rabigato, Malvasia, Viosinho and Códega de Larinho.

Quinta de La Rosa white Reserva 2014 is more powerful and food-friendly. It’s really dry and refreshing, overcoming the lemon and tangerine aromas with notes of vanilla. In this wine the mineral characteristic is less obvious. The varieties are the same as in the previous reserve.

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Quinta de La Rosa white – Photo Provided by Quinta de La Rosa | All Rights Reserved

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Quinta de La Rosa white Reserva – Photo Provided by Quinta de La Rosa | All Rights Reserved

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Quinta de La Rosa Rosé – Photo Provided by Quinta de La Rosa | All Rights Reserved

Quinta de La Rosa Rosé 2014 let me down. The total amount of grapes – Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Roriz didn’t reflect the Douro region. Although it isn’t heavy, its 13,5% of alcohol make it unsuitable for lunch meals.

The first wines I came across in Quinta de La Rosa were the reds, and I fell in love straight away. I think they grow a few steps above the whites and another good few above the rosé. douRosa red 2013 is my favourite portrait of Douro with schist soil and dried wild herbs. It’s dry yet not austere, and made of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Roriz.

Tinta de La Rosa red 2012 shares identifying features with the previous wine plus carob, mint and white pepper. It lasts long on the mouth. A beautiful wine.

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douROSA red – Photo Provided by Quinta de La Rosa | All Rights Reserved

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Quinta de La Rosa red 2012 – Photo Provided by Quinta de La Rosa | All Rights Reserved

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La Rosa Reserva red – Photo Provided by Quinta de La Rosa | All Rights Reserved

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Quinta de La Rosa Vintage Port – Photo Provided by Quinta de La Rosa | All Rights Reserved

A great wine – really great – is La Rosa Reserva Red 2012. It has everything you can expect from the region, from the minerality of its schist to the cherries, raspberries, strawberry jam, dark sweets and After Eight chocolates. Very pleasant tannins, it’s as soft as velvet down your throat. It’s refreshing…  and exactly 14,5% alcohol. Almost entirely Touriga Nacional with a certain percentage of Touriga Franca.

Quinta de La Rosa Port Vintage 2012 is still closed; you can already sense carob, cherry and a bouquet of floral notes, although not very clearly. It’s buttery and long lasting. Give it a few years.

Contacts
Quinta de la Rosa
5085-215 Pinhão
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 254 732 254
Fax: (+351) 254 732 346
E-mail:holidays@quintadelarosa.com
Website: www.quintadelarosa.com

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About João Barbosa
Wine Writer Blend | All About Wine
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