Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne
Not only did Jorge Rosas inherit this beautiful piece of land, but an entire genetic heritage, as well as the story of a family with ties to Douro, and to the production of quality wines.
His great grandfather, Adriano Ramos Pinto, was the founder of Ramos Pinto in 1880; his father, José António Rosas, was a visionary in Douro Superior, having become infamous for buying lands where Erva Moira land now stands. Later, in 1990, José António Rosas bought Quinta da Touriga, in Chã, Foz Côa, also with the goal of producing wines. Once again, just like in Erva Moira, there was nothing but stones, schist.
But that man’s vision and his wisdom and depth of knowledge of the territory, vineyards, and the climate in this region proved him right once again. Thus, red wines by Quinta da Touriga-Chã were born, and have evolved so well, they are among the best Douro reds. They are now in Jorge Rosas’ hand, who is still managing Ramos Pinto, however still giving a small part of his time and a lot of passion to continue his father’s work.
The land includes a very interesting house; the work performed on it was not very invasive, allowing that extraordinary landscape to speak for itself.
Even the swimming-pool already seems part of the scenery, alongside a few rustic buildings still standing, intact.
Besides a few surrounding trees, the vineyard slithers around the place, in the typical serpentine shape of plateau vineyards.
In the beginning, Jorge Rosas made wine in an outsourced cellar, very far away from Touriga-Chã. In 2000, he started building his own cellar, now a reality and a winning bet.
Sketched by the same architect who had designed the house, this cellar uses traditional materials, such as schist, but is mostly very functional and versatile, as a cellar should be. The must, and later wines, are very thankful. The wines from this land have constantly been evolving within the profile projected by the producer, in such a way that they are recognised and awarded anywhere they go. This happened besides his small production, of a little over 6500 bottles split into two levels of wine: Puro and Quinta da Touriga-Chã, the latter ranking highest. Jorge Rosas firmly states that he wishes to continue making wines which are good when released, but after 5, 10 or 15 years, they become excellent due to their strong ability to age.
It seems that time has proved him right, which we had the opportunity to confirm in a friendly vertical tasting of a few harvests still in his cellar.
Quinta da Touriga Chã 2010 presented a dark garnet colour; very deep, with purple shades, very intense. The nose is still closed, austere yet displaying the typical elegance these wines carry. Fruity, refreshing, with complex aromas of dark chocolate, wood, smoke and spices; it opens slowly, and needs time in the glass. In the mouth, this wine’s strength is impressive, with the tannins still very evident, yet still evolving, full of dark fruits, blackberries, plums, blueberries and some wild flowers. Light smoky notes, very refreshing, and good powerful acidity bring the blend together, and provide a lasting finish. It lasts a long, long time.
Next was Quinta da Touriga Chã 2011, an exceptional year; its colour a heavy garnet, very dark and shiny. It reveals several aromas of dark fruits, full of freshness, a little smoke and notes of tobacco. In the mouth, it’s powerful, full, intense, with a perfect combination of acidity and freshness, notes of dark chocolate, blackberries, figs, plums; however, this wine reveals a profound elegance; very seductive.
Quinta da Touriga Chã 2012 also presents great wines from this region. This example had the same shiny, very deep shade of garnet. In the nose, an explosion of complex aromas of wild flowers and fruits of the forest, notes of humus, very elegant, silky. The mouth reveals its entire dimension; very intense, velvety and at the same time powerful, the dark fruits very ripe, notes of dark chocolate and lightly spiced, revealing its great elegance in a very long finish.
Finally, Quinta da Touriga Chã 2013 was served (still unlabelled). The youngest in the family, which revealed precisely that above all else: its youth. It’s a very dark, opaque, shiny garnet. A powerful nose, full of dark fruits and wild flowers; very refreshing, even a little peppery. In the mouth, once again the very intense fruit, freshness and very good acidity; a promising delicious wine. With some more bottle time, it will certainly delight us.
That done, and because of the suffocating heat, we slowly submerged in the pool, surrounded by all that beauty lining the horizon…
Contacts
Quinta da Touriga
Apartado 17
Vila Nova de Foz Côa , 5151-909 Guarda
Tel: (+351) 279 764 196
Leave a Reply