Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

The maddening heat outside was close to 40ºC as the GPS announced “Herdade do Arrepiado Velho”. This new wine producer is very near Sousel, in Alto Alentejo, and is part of the São Mamede wine route. The Arrepiado Velho hill was bought and restored by a couple from Porto; the vineyard was planted and, today, oenology is taken care of by António Maçanita.

The friendly couple, António Antunes and Marta Neto, were expecting us. He is the owners’ son, and became so involved in the project he decided to settle down in Herdade do Arrepiado Velho. His wife, Marta Neto, works in Design and is the mind behind the beautiful prized labels. If you are interested in knowing more about wine tourism and its history, I would recommend reading this article by José Silva.

I shall be telling you the story of my relationship with the wines from Herdade do Arrepiado Velho, which began with the very first vintage. People often say first impressions are very important. In my case, it wasn’t love at first tasting; in fact, I actually berated the wines I tasted at the time. They obviously deserved a second chance, as all wines do, which for me is always decisive.

António presented the whites one by one, in a peaceful and relaxed tasting by the pool. At first, and considering what had been engraved in my memory, they seemed tuned up and tidier in terms of the profile; fresh, highlighting the fruit, in turn juicy and with great presence. Even so, they have a different signature from the rest, such as Herdade do Arrepiado Antão Vaz 2014, whose variety escapes the sad heavy monotony that hovered over wines of this variety throughout Alentejo. I am glad everything changed, and oenology realised that it was not the right path. This one is tense, and the fruit is clean and quite fresh; you don’t feel the taste of canned pineapple, much on the contrary. A compact aroma, vibrant, and with a light touch of ripe fruit. In the palate, it shows some austerity, then dryness in the finish, the blend marked by the fruit, but which will be revived after some time in the bottle.

Arrepiado Velho Riesling 2013 – Photo Provided by Arrepiado Velho | All Rights Reserved

Riesling de Netas 2011 – Photo Provided by Arrepiado Velho | All Rights Reserved

Beside it were three bottles of Riesling. Arrepiado Velho Riesling 2013 confirms the variety’s description in the nose: a lot of fruit including grapefruit, apricot, a bit of buttery sauce and the background is slightly tar-like. In these cases, we switch off the plug that connects us directly to Germany and just enjoy the wine and the variety. I am convinced by the good mood these Rieslings provide; we must not forget the region they come from. We had a quick taste of the 2014, which did not prove very talkative, and required a little more time in the bottle. So be it. Lastly, the peculiar Riesling de Netas 2011, in which year the vineyard was destroyed from mildew, and towards the end of the vintage, a second production (known as “netas”, meaning granddaughters) of the Reasling was beginning to ripen; the vinage would be done in November. The wine almost reminds you of a late harvest; its aroma is more refined and has a marked buttery feel to it, it’s jelly-like, and round in the nose. In the mouth rules the lovely freshness, also cradling the fruit; there’s some rounding of the wood with the finish revealing light mineral austerity.

The top of the range of whites, Arrepiado Colection white 2013, was the white I liked best. It’s one of those whites that combine the lovely freshness of the blend with serenity conveyed by its brief stay in wood. Notes of toasted bread, clean fruit (citrus, apricot) and ripe, light jelly with floral presence. A very well structured wine that captivates you and invites you for another glass, revealing very good freshness in the mouth, full of flavour and pleasure.

In what comes to reds, I would highlight Arrepiado Collection 2011, which appears as an opulent wine, very lively and full of strength, refreshing, and very well prepared wood. The fruit is dark, ripe and dripping with flavour; beautiful complexity with a little balsam and some spices in the background. In the mouth, it’s full-bodied, has a lot of vigour, is intense and flavourful, a natural head-turner with class and character, ending in a lasting and persistent finish.

Left to the end was the same wine whose first vintage made me frown; the one from a special edition called Brett Edition. Said wine made its entrance in the first year with a beastly load, which was thought of as interesting and worthy of the market. That same wild beast chased me off the wine straight away. You see, if I can barely tolerate just a touch, accepting the entire herd running through my glass was not easy. Time went by, and here I am now, faced with a new vintage; in this case the 2011, which – let’s say  – did not seem beastly at all. Even if there is some beast in it, it is quite tolerated and fits in with so many other wines from other places in the complexity of the wine. That said, I was quite convinced by the wine, and I enjoyed the freshness of the dark and red fruits (mulberry and blueberry). Even dense, it’s blended with many peppers, leather, a box of cigars, dark chocolate and a hint of mint. All that wrapped in a lot of freshness in this beautiful Syrah.

Contacts
Herdade do Arrepiado Velho
Tel.:(+351) 256 392 675
Fax: (+351) 256 392 676

António Antunes
E-Mail: amantunes@arrepiadovelho.com
Tel.: (+351) 913 256 056

Marta Neto
E-Mail: mneto@arrepiadovelho.com
Tel.: (+351) 910 868 661

Website: www.arrepiadovelho.com