Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

I know Casa d’Arrochela since 2010, when I was sent samples of Grandes Quintas Colheita Red 2007 and Grandes Quintas Reserva Red 2007. Every year, the company sends me their wines – and olive oil – for tasting and I like what I taste.

Grandes Quintas Colheita Red 2007 in Arrochela.com

Grandes Quintas Reserva Red 2007 in Arrochela.com

A regular product is a precious good. It’s important not to confuse regularity with patterns. Regularity conveys a familiar trait, composed of different outcomes of every year, and the ground’s persistence. Patterns create anonymity. A product may be good, but it will only be more of the same – not so much wine and more like ordinary produce.

These wines are Douro wines and not to be confused with any other location. Inside the bottles lies the schist floor and earth that was ploughed to make it, the wild grass about to dry out in the harvest season, rock-rose stands out, as does the warmth in the Oak firewood, and it has a nocturnal manner of getting to your senses. In the mouth, it’s deep, dark, dense and persistent.

Nocturnal? Well, yes, because this kind of wine – the traditional Douro – must not be drunk in the daytime. These wines are the blood of vampires, for relaxed conversations, or after a hard day’s work, for a quiet dinner and endless conversations, while soft music – not sad or tasteless – also takes part in the moment.

The wines this company produces have the Douro personality, strength and character. They go along with physically demanding meals, but may outlive them, lingering on the table and releasing a fortified or distilled wine.

The technical chart does not specify how much of each variety is in the wine: touriga nacional, tinto cão, touriga franca and tinta roriz. Because it’s a Douro variety, touriga franca shines, while allowing the others to speak up.

Touriga franca (frank touriga) – which cannot be “frank” because it’s a hybrid – has that noble character that allows the voice of other grapes to be heard. Maybe all – a dangerous word – the big varieties in the world will impose themselves, boastful like peacocks, or soaking up all the light. This Douro variety remains in the background, but not as decoration. It is generous and very rarely obtains the quality it can get in the Douro region… flying solo successfully is a tougher task.

The Grandes Quintas wines have an adorable touriga franca – with real character. Nature is not all it takes to get this result. Interpreting what is growing and making use of the best of it is a technical job. In this case, it’s up to Luís Soares Duarte, one of the best oenologists in the region.

The grapes came from Quinta do Cerval (70%) and Quinta de Vale de Canivens (30%), both in the Douro Superior sub-region. They have schist grounds and the vines are between 200 and 500 metres high.

The wine briefly aged in wood, with 60% of the wine ageing for four months in French oak casks. I feel as though it should have aged in that environment for a little longer – it had nothing but to gain.

The producer recommends decanting for five minutes before serving. Perhaps more, I suggest. Being as free as a vulture in Parque do Douro Internacional (International Douro Park), touriga franca has this character that craves freedom.

Contacts
Av. Eng. Duarte Pacheco
Amoreiras, Torre 2, 9º Andar, Sala 8
1070 – 102 Lisboa
Tel: (+351) 213 713 240
Fax: (+351) 213 713 246
E-Mail: arrochella@fimove.pt
Website: arrochella.com