Blend All About Wine Arquivo de Several Wines - Page 5 of 6

Fresheners: José Maria da Fonseca’s 2014 Wines

June 26, 2015 2 comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

I am so tired of the heat, even though the summer has barely started. The street where I am as I write this is cool… Well, as cool as a fridge in Hell. In my mind – somebody has to stay behind in Lisbon, minding the city while everybody is out and about – I stretched my towel out on the sand and took a few dives in the ocean to cool my head and freeze a few bad thoughts.

I’m writing this in the faint light, at twilight. As always, this season and this moment take me to a moment in time I can never return to. I’m listening to GNR (a Portuguese rock band) and as the song says, I remember how, “at 16, one feels so close to 86”. This is factual, not melancholy.

Some facts bring discomfort. When I think about when I was 16, I remember several beaches, because the summer holidays were really long. In June, I would visit Sesimbra and I can still retrace the route in my head; “the present” stops my invisible vehicle in Azeitão, on the way.

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Because it’s summer time. Because that is the place the new 2014 wines I was sent come from. These wines ready to face the heat and enjoy the season. Refreshing and easy to drink. In Colecção Privada Domingos Soares Franco Verdelho 2014, Colecção Privada Domingos Soares Franco Moscatel Roxo (Rosé) 2014, Quinta de Camarate white Seco 2014, Quinta de Camarate white Doce 2014, Periquita white 2014 e Periquita Rosé 2014 – besides BSE, which was previously written about.

The presentation took place in By The Wine José Maria da Fonseca, a place that reminds me of a few old “Casas de Pasto” (traditional simple eateries) – something between a tavern and a restaurant. By The wine is on Rua das Flores, parallel to Rua de Alecrim, between Cais do Sodré and Camões Square, very popular with tourists. This place is worth mentioning because they exhibit images that reveal this historical company’s past.

The year 2014 is one to remember, at least in Portugal; it was the year Eusébio died – that 60s football hero – and, in the rest of the world, for Scotland being denied its independence from the UK. People in the wine business will remember it as an “oops” year! Everything was going so well until the rain came.

However, it was no catastrophe. One positive outlook is the freshness of the wines whose grapes were harvested before the rain. It’s the case of those presented by a company in Azeitão. Everything has its pros and cons. In this case, whatever is usually most frowned upon is subjective. More substantial are the freshness and how accuracy the summer is shot in the heart.

Quinta de Camarate Seco white 2014 is a blend of Alvarinho and Verdelho grapes; it’s sensual in the nose and reveals freshness, suggesting food. Good on summer nights.

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Quinta de Camarate Doce white 2014 does not appeal to me. The problem is precisely the sweetness. It was made from grapes of the Alvarinho and Loureiro varieties. However, it stands as an alternative to generous whites or vermouths, taken with entrées.

The two Periquita may attend the same party. Periquita White 2014 gathers Alvarinho, Viosinho and Viognier, and must be placed on the table along with the summer’s traditionally light foods. Before that, friends in shorts and flip-flops will have enjoyed some Periquita Rosé 2014.

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One shouldn’t sleep on the job, and JMF certainly doesn’t. There are no “serious wines” or “pretend wines”. I mean I have to say that the remaining two wines are “more serious”. It’s a case of rhetoric.

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Colecção Privada Domingos Soares Franco Verdelho 2014 is a highjack on the summer…

– Go away, heat! Get out of here!

Colecção Privada Domingos Soares Franco Moscatel Roxo 2014 has been frightening the temperatures away, as were its previous editions. Still, I wouldn’t say it’s “my wine”. I have to mention something, though: Colecção Privada Domingos Soares Franco Moscatel Roxo wines have been very revered, whether by critics or the general public. Aside from that, I take my hat off to it, and presume the problem must be me; I don’t believe in sidereal conspiracy… especially against a mere mortal’s palate.

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Always generous, even in the summer

Moscatel de Setúbal wines aren’t so popular, unfortunately. Most are consumed in their own region. It’s a shame, really, because they are quite different from the world-famous Port and Madeira.

The company, José Maria da Fonseca, introduced Alambre 2010, which aged in used wood. It got the taste right, whether to start with or to finish dessert. The company suggests using it in cocktails; either just with ice, or with ginger ale and a lemon zest, or with sparkling water.

Contacts
Quinta da Bassaqueira – Estrada Nacional 10,
2925-542 Vila Nogueira de Azeitão, Setúbal, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 212 197 500
E-mail: info@jmf.pt
Website: www.jmf.pt

My legs aren’t tired from walking round Dão yet

June 12, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

I started walking along the Dão, but because the roads are so long, I didn’t make it to my destination without taking a weeklong break. As I mentioned earlier, my second revelation was a party with many high-ranking officials.

That took place in 2010, when João Tavares de Pina threw an event attended by many producers of great quality wines. This farmer called it “Dão – The Next Big Thing”.

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Dão Expressions in cvrdao.pt

I have nothing to teach the managers of Comissão Vitivinícola Regional do Dão (Dão Regional Viticulture Commission), but I think this moment should be repeated in order to create a wave of acknowledgement… perhaps with a contest, debates and international critics.

It was some rendezvous. A true gathering. A proper gathering, due to the variety and quality presented. If I did take notes, I can’t remember where I placed the list of all the producer’s details, but there were many. As with everything else, I have memorised some of them because I liked them.

One example was the wine by the host and organiser. The wines of Terra de Tavares; very vibrant, authentic, with a “terroir” character – this word is bound to become common due to constant usurping, which is not the case here.

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Another great find were the wines by Casa de Darei, more elegant than the former, but also very special and true to their roots. But the greater spectacle happened in the quaint Clube de Viseu, in its ball room.

The best moment was when wines from Centro de Estudos Vitivinícolas do Dão (Centre for Dão Wine Growing Studies) were served. This centre is found in Quinta da Cal, in county Nelas. The old whites, namely those of 1980 and 1981, were fit as fiddles. Reds from the 70s felt even younger.

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Solar do Vinho Dão (CVR Dão) cvrdao.pt

A good friend told me he drank a few “century-old” nectars by UDACA (“União Das Adegas Cooperativas da Região Demarcada do Dão”, Union of the Wine Growing Co-operatives of the Dão Demarcated Region), which made him rethink his earlier assertion that only liked young wines. Unfortunately, those make it down my throat.

My memory of Dão was formed almost of thin air, as I revealed in the first part of this trip down memory lane. Until very late, I only knew about old brands of Dão wines, such as Porta de Cavaleiros, Dão Pipas, Grão Vasco, Meia Encosta, São Domingos, Messias and Borges… I think that’s all.

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Dão Expressions in cvrdao.pt

Once in the 90s decade, I was introduced to excellent nectars, boasting farm names where they grew, a natural process due to the decline of the region’s cooperatives. Since then, the list has expanded. Knowing I will be unfair by involuntary omission, I must cite – besides the already mentioned – red and white pearls: Quinta dos Roques, Quinta da Vegia, Quinta da Passarela, Paço dos Cunhas de Santar, Quinta de Carvalhais, Casa de Mouraz, Quinta da Falorca, Duque de Viseu, Pedra Cancela, Pedro & Inês, Quinta da Fata, Quinta de Saes, Quinta da Pellada, Quinta do Perdigão, Quinta de Carvalhais and… “Inexplicably” sorted by memory, not hierarchy.

As with everything else, there aren’t only wonders. Still, the darkness of it isn’t absolute either – fortunately. One day, embraced by the Dão charm, I stumbled upon a wine by Adega Cooperativa de Penalva do Castelo. It was a terrible experience. Emphasys on “was”. Currently, what that cooperative cellar has been producing makes up for its past.

I had a mentor in journalism who never tired of complimenting my ability to summarise. In these articles, though I don’t need to keep the news short… I’m not able to say everything I would like to say about Dão.

Please be patient, there’s more to come next week.

In the Bairrada Region, a Producer With a Great Tradition

May 22, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

I remember many years ago, in cafés in Lisbon, it was customary to order “A bica (espresso) and a São Domingos!”

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Aguardente Bagaceira (Marc Spirit) Caves São Domingos © Blend All About Wine, Lda

This São Domingos was the brandy made by Caves São Domingos, and very popular as a high quality spirit. Times went by, drinking spirits became less and less popular due to a law that emerged in the meantime, but Caves São Domingos are still there and, among many other products, they produce this and other very high quality drinks.

Caves São Domingos are Still There © Blend All About Wine, Lda

The cellars still include the facilities in Anadia, but have been growing and have been producing not only more wines and spirits, but also a broader variety of products.

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Their Prestigious Brandies © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Although the main – and most renowned – product is the sparkling wine, their prestigious brandies have kept the traditional customers coming as well as broadening the range of consumer types, who search more and more for genuine products. Table wines, from the regions of Bairrada and Dão, have taken over the front page of the company’s portfolio.

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Modern Cellar © Blend All About Wine, Lda

All these developments make them want to stay up-to-date, which is why the company now has a modern cellar and all the technology available – especially the Cold Chain that enables them to make modern attractive wines. Furthermore, they can also keep producing sparkling wines distinguished by national and international experts, and by the end customers.

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In their cellars now age more than two million bottles of sparkling wine, of several categories, and which are released in the market according to demand.

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Traditional Riddling Wine Racks © Blend All About Wine, Lda

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They still rest in the traditional riddling wine racks, where bottles are turned by hand every day. Those racks coexist with the most modern method of remuage (turning bottles periodically) and allow for producing a larger amount of sparkling wine while ensuring the quality.

Thanks to great care in dissemination, participation in countless national or international fairs and wine tasting events throughout the country, sparkling wines are more and more consumed with the rich Portuguese cuisine, which goes far beyond roasted suckling pig – although a still very popular and very good natural partner.

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Demi-johns © Blend All About Wine, Lda

This is also where they store the liqueur demi-johns and the ageing casks for several brandies produced in those cellars. The latter are known in many markets as the best in Portugal. São Domingos wines are made of grapes from their own vineyards and other producers’ vineyards in Bairrada and Dão, who the company assists with technical matters, ensuring top quality raw materials.

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In the main room, the old wall clock reminded us that it was time to taste some wines. So we did, with Caves São Domingos white 2014, of floral aromas and some citrus lending the Maria Gomes and Bical varieties. In the mouth, it feels velvety, slightly citrusy, flavourful and very enjoyable. Next was Volúpia White, also a 2014, although comprising Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Maria Gomes varieties – a modern wine and very fresh, very mineral, with excellent volume in the mouth, very balanced acidity and filled with elegance. – For a more detailed insight of these white wines please check João Pedro de Carvalho previous article here.

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Velha Reserva Brut 2008 © Blend All About Wine, Lda

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Cuvée Brut 2011 © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Then, the sparkling wines. First, Velha Reserva Brut 2008, made of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, very fresh floral notes in the nose, hay, brioche and a little hint of toast. The bubble is very fine and elegant, it was refreshing in the mouth with notes of nuts. Following, the Cuvée Brut 2011, with Baga and Sauvignon Blanc, had some complexity in the nose, it was fruity, with dry notes, a very refined bubble, very refreshing in the mouth with a hint of toast, very soft notes of almond – a very elegant sparkling wine.

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Lopo de Freitas Brut 2010 © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Finally, we tasted Lopo de Freitas Brut 2010, already a classic wine by this company. Cerceal and Chardonnay make an excellent match, their bubbles very refined, slightly fruity aromas, somewhat exotic. In the mouth, it has excellent acidity; it is full, creamy, with light notes of nuts and a lasting and pleasant finish.

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Present in the roast suckling pig was Blanc de Blancs Brut 2011: very fresh, mineral and with some citric suggestions, great acidity and battling the pork.

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To finish, “an espresso and a São Domingos”, of course…

Contacts
Caves do Solar de São Domingos, S.A.
Ferreiros – Anadia
Apartado 16
3781-909 Anadia – Portugal
Tel: (+351) 231 519 680
Fax: (+351) 231 511 269
E-mail: info@cavesaodomingos.com
Website: www.cavesaodomingos.com

Quinta do Pessegueiro Presents Its New Goods

May 13, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

Humanity is thankful for how much of “the best wine in the world” there is. Between independent countries, very autonomous territories and unrecognised states, one can count 197 countries. Amongst the latter, perhaps Santa Sé is singled out for not having a single vine, or for not producing even one quarter of a litre of wine.

In total, there must be one million of “the best wine in the world”, a democratic title. From farmers with as little as 0.50 acres of land and “the purest wine” to a tycoon with money to spare, both can make some.

One man – who stood up to life and came out winning – has a much more sensible ambition: to make one of the best wines in the Douro Valley. I am thinking of Roger Zannier. He has made a fortune in the clothing industry, he respects and appreciates wine, and he has another piece of land in France, in Côtes de Provence – Château Saint-Maur (Cru Classe).

Contrary to others, including those applying to be the makers of “the best wine in the world”, Roger Zannier is not in a hurry. He has set a deadline – not yesterday nor tomorrow, a healthy eight years from now – which puts the pressure on.

Roger Zannier – Photo by Nuno Teixeira in mariajoaodealmeida.com

He hasn’t hired a “flying oenologist”, but someone youthful, who brings in fresh blood, renowned skills and expertise in the region. Hence, João Nicolau de Almeida (son) is in charge of the project.

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João Nicolau de Almeida in facebook.com/pages/Quinta-do-Pessegueiro/381339061883836

The company has presented its wines in Lisbon: Aluzé White 2013, Aluzé Red 2011, Quinta do Pessegueiro Red 2011 and Quinta do Pessegueiro Vintage Port 2012. They have reached a goal not easy for many: connecting all of their wines to a particular feature; a transverse profile that breathes the spirit of the house.

Aluzé White 2013, Aluzé Red 2011, Quinta do Pessegueiro Red 2011 and Quinta do Pessegueiro Vintage Port 2012 in facebook.com/pages/Quinta-do-Pessegueiro/381339061883836

The aromatic freshness is a common feature to all. In the mouth, that pleasant feeling lingers, adding to it – the almost compulsory – great elegance, with depth and persistence. The four table wines require food. Judging by its elegance and softness, I believe sophisticated cuisine will do it justice. Not to imply that local cuisine would be unsuitable. What the wine intends to express is the mix of these nectars, comprising the Douro DNA, delicacies and genetics common to all, albeit developed in a quaint fashion.

Although a plate of food must sit beside a glass of this wine, Aluzé make excellent company when all you feel like is a chat…

João Nicolau de Almeida made his big entrance by bottling his first vintage. Quinta de Pessegueiro Vintage Port 2012 is doing very well. However, there is a long way to go. The world won’t end tomorrow, and besides, vintage wines are nature’s whims, not man’s will… There is plenty of time, one must know to rise to the occasion.

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Quinta do Pessegueiro in quintadopessegueiro.com

One good point is the architectural quality of the buildings, the restoration of the house and the new cellar, with the touch of architects Artur Miranda and Jacques Bec. This is not just a detail! The functional buildings – whether for accommodation, passing wine tourism, hospitality, catering or manufacturing – they act as a business card.

Unfortunately, only a few producers invest in good architecture. There is no need to hire Norman Foster, Frank Ghery, Santiago Calatrava or Siza Vieira; many Portuguese architects, even young ones, are very able to design unique pieces. Another lesson by Roger Zannier.

Contacts
Quinta do Pessegueiro
Sociedade Agrícola e Comercial, Lda
5130-114 Ervedosa do Douro, Portugal
Tel : (+351) 254 422 081
Fax : (+351) 254 422 078
E-mail: quintadopessegueiro@zannier.com
Website: www.quintadopessegueiro.com

Olho no Pé: To Boldly Go Where No Man Has Gone Before

April 30, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by Sarah Ahmed

Text Sarah Ahmed

In my last post about the Douro I urged you to “seek and ye shall find,” for no other Portuguese region can surely boast such a rich diversity of terroir? In fact, look hard enough and you can even unearth sweet wines in the Douro. I’m not talking Port, of course, but late harvest and botrytis influenced dessert wines, as in no (brandy) spirit required.

The addition of brandy spirit stops the fermentation process that transforms grape sugars into alcohol, which explains why fortified wines like Port and Moscatel do Douro are sweet. Unfortified sweet wines, on the other hand, simply rely on having super-high sugar levels. Leave the grapes on the vine for long enough and, being dry and sunny, the Douro will lavish you with sugar. So why don’t we see more unfortified Douro sweeties?

The answer lies in the fact that a great dessert winemaker must be the consummate tightrope walker of sugar and acid balance.

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Tightrope Walker in unbornmind.com

As grape sugars rise, grape acidity decreases. If the acidity is too low, the resulting wine will taste too sweet or, worse, flabby. Great dessert wines need both high sugar and high acidity. Not an easy combination in a hot, dry climate.

It’s why the handful of Douro sweeties I’ve encountered hail from elevated vineyards. And they can be mighty impressive. Take Rozès Noble Late Harvest 2009, which my panel awarded a Gold Medal and Sweet Wine Trophy at Decanter World Wine Awards 2011 or Quinta do Portal Late Harvest 2007, one of my 50 Great Portuguese Wines 2010.The more elevated the vineyard, the more elevated the acidity because, at altitude, temperatures drop markedly, especially at night-time. Add morning fog and humidity into the mix and you have the perfect conditions for botrytis to take hold. Rather improbably, this mold produces the most magical sweet wines not only because it concentrates both sweetness and acidity, but also because it produces a honeyed, often floral (camomile or saffron), complexity. No wonder it’s also called noble rot!

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My latest dessert wine finds are made by Tiago Sampaio of Olho no Pé. Describing himself as “a one man show,” Sampaio’s curiosity about wine was triggered by his grandfather who first introduced a young Sampaio to the Douro’s vineyards and world of wine. But I suspect that the young winemaker’s dessert wine friendly focus on freshness results from his five years in Oregon (where he obtained a PhD in Viticulture and Enology). It certainly accounts for the pale but promising Pinot Noirs in his portfolio – the delicate Burgundian variety benefits from Oregon’s crisp, cool nights. Sampaio founded Olho no Pé after he returned to the Douro from the United States in 2007. The dessert wines which he showed me at Simplesmente Vinho earlier this year are both made from old field blend vines (70 years old plus) with a high proportion of Gouveio located in Alijó at 600 metres above sea level. Because of its elevation, like Favaios, the municipality is traditionally famous for its fresh, delicate Moscatel do Douro and, increasingly, for dry white wines. Here are my notes on Sampaio’s delicious sweeties:

Olho no Pé Colheita Tardia/Late Harvest

2011 (Douro)

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Sampaio has a very delicate touch. Handpicked grapes are picked in successive, highly selective harvests and, chock full of sugar (this wine has around 200g/l of residual sugar), it was naturally fermented very slowly. As it slowly transformed from grape juice to wine, complex aromas and flavours were unlocked – saffron spice, crystallised ginger, camomile and poached pears. Silky of texture, very fresh and pure, the wine was aged on fine lees in mature oak barrels which really let the fruit speak. Super-pretty with a beguiling, un-worked quality. 11%

Olho no Pé 2011 (Vinho, Portugal)

If I exaggerate, it’s only a little (for the Douro at any rate), but I reckon this yet-to-be- named cuvee boldly goes where none have gone before. It is the product of the most concentrated, botrytised grapes of 2011 (and, for that matter, all the vintages Sampaio has ever worked). Just two barrels were made which, with double the amount of residual sugar (400g/l) took much, much longer to ferment – two years! At 7% abv it is below the minimum level of alcohol for DOC Douro or VR Duriense classification, yet has the same tell tale saffron signature of botrytis as the Late Harvest wine – lovely lift and purity too. A satiny palate reveals delicate barley sugar, spun sugar and brighter, tighter, more focused fresh apple close to the core, giving it a welcome trace of balancing bitterness and bite. Toothsome yet fresh, concentrated yet with a levity, this sweet essence of grapes lingers long in the mouth and memory. An experience!

Contacts
Tiago Sampaio
Rua António Cândido, 7
5070-029 Alijó, Portugal
Mobile: (+351) 960 487 850
E-mail: info@foliasdebaco.com
Website: www.foliasdebaco.com

Quinta de Covela – the new wines of 2014

April 27, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

On the 22^nd April, Quinta de Covela came to Lisbon to present their wines harvested in 2014. The tasting of the single-species and the Quinta da Covela rosé was held in one of Lisbon’s icons in cuisine, Cervejaria Ramiro. Following an introduction by viticulturer Gonçalo Sousa Lopes and oenologist Rui Cunha, we were guided by the entire team. 2014 was a very good year; it rained at the right time, alternating with heat, which slowed the ageing of the grapes down and, I dare say, perfectly. The result is out: refreshing wines of very defined, crystal clear scents and flavours, and a natural inclination to be served with food. Demand for these wines is on the rise, while its current production is still low, given the necessary replantation because of the bad state in which about 40% of the vineyard was found.

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First of all, there was a mano a mano between the Covela Avesso Edição Nacional, of the 2013 harvest (magnum bottle) and that of 2014. The difference was a more serious and cohesive Avesso 2013, much fatter fruit (citrus and apple) with undefined aroma, of a slightly austere combination in the mouth and a dry aftertaste.

Covela Edição Nacional Avesso 2014 shone with very pure, almost crystal-clear aromas, a very floral and perfumed touch, the fruit in the spotlight; very refreshing and charismatic, and somewhat mineral in the background. This cohesive combination is full of life, has a lively mouth and a very tasty, dry aftertaste, which goes well with food, which was to be served next: the wine proved quite graceful together with Amêijoas À Bulhão Pato (Bulhão Pato-style clams).

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The next wine reveals an Arinto-like tone; very austere and energetic, this new Covela Arinto Edição Nacional 2014. It is very refreshing within such a new combination. The base is citrusy with some floral, although the whole mix still needs some more time. For now, the mineral tone in the background is the most enhanced feature thanks to the energy it creates in the mouth. This white has a good athletic build, while being quite less playful with aromas than Avesso. In this case, perhaps more substantial meals are in order, as was proven with Gambas al Ajillo (Ajillo-style prawns).

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Another new product is Covela Rosé 2014, made from Touriga Nacional, which is prematurely harvested especially to make this wine. A successful case and one of the best rosés made in Portugal, its winning features being youth, freshness and gentleness; very detailed scents and flavours, a delicate floral with that remarkable freshness. A balanced fruit-acidity palate and a pleasant presence, maintaining that dry aftertaste in the mouth, which revives the palate and makes for great potential in cuisine.

Contacts
LIMA SMITH Lda.
Quinta de Covela,
S. Tomé de Covelas
4640-211 BAIÃO
Tel: (+351) 254 886 298
E-mail: info@covela.pt
Website: www.covela.pt

Wine Tradition, History and Production as an Art

April 24, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Alentejo encompasses a significant number of magic places; whether for beautiful scenery, never-ending lands, earth-grown products or historical families and buildings. One specific location in the Estremoz region includes all of the above: Quinta Dona Maria, dating from the 18th Century, which belonged to king D. João V at a point.

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The current owner, Júlio Bastos, has proven his skills in maintaining the beauty and quality of the facilities, so rich in history, and the magnificent surrounding gardens. His other talent is investing in producing high-quality wines, these days renowned worldwide as deluxe products.

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It is made from very good grapes of different species, of which Alicante Bouschet stands out amongst the reds. The grapes are prepared in an old cellar – very well restored with beautiful presses made of marble from that region – where they still crush the grapes under their feet. Powerful wines age there – with strong character yet very elegant, with a particular profile and excellent potential to accompany food.

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When wine is grown with rigour, vines are well guided and watered by nature, your grapes turn out very sound. Later, they are timely harvested and carefully selected to make wines with the Dona Maria signature.

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On our recent visit, we were greeted by oenologist Sandra Gonçalves and the owner, Júlio Bastos. They brought us on a tour of the austere yet beautiful cellar, revealing what grape preparation process lies behind such good wines.

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Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta-Dona-Maria-The-Old-Cement-Reservoirs.

The cellar’s wood ceilings are fantastic, along with supporting columns with ceramic vaults surrounded by thick stone walls, which also house the old cement reservoirs, still in use after restoration.

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In another room, the wines rest in countless French and American oak casks, to be bottled in due time, and then continue ageing for some more months or years. After enlightening explanations about the whole production process, Júlio Bastos invited us into the tasting room where Sandra Gonçalves prepared a tasting guided by the two. Júlio Bastos entertained his usual strict tone, even in regard to his own wines. He was, however, immensely educational regarding Alentejo wines in general, which he knows very well. Before us, eight wines were presented, much to our delight:

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Dona Maria white 2014 maintains the tropical aroma profile – quite citrusy, refreshing, of balanced acidity and great volume in the mouth. The Amantis white 2013 let the Viognier species shine. It had very soft tropical notes and some white fruits, with a hint of smoke, balanced acidity keeping it very elegant.

Viognier 2013 still felt very young, combining aromas of white fruits and a light floral scent, but very elegant, with volume in the mouth, full, intense acidity but balanced, with an excellent aftertaste. Next, an amazing Rosé 2013, very balanced, with soft tropical aromas alongside a complex mouth, very refreshing, with notes of tropical fruits, strawberries, jam and acidity that connects all of the above, and a great aftertaste.

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Moving onto the reds, Dona Maria Red 2012, a brand with aromas of ripe red fruits, light smoky notes and blackberries. It’s lively in the mouth, with excellent acidity, intense red fruits and good volume, a well-balanced wine. The red Touriga Nacional 2011 reveals the quality in that year’s harvest. The elegant aromas of violet and bergamot with light smoky notes and some spices contrast with the full mouth – velvety, with notes of red fruits and some chocolate, and excellent acidity.

Next was Amantis Red Reserva 2009, a muscular wine, complex, with aromas of ripe dark fruits and refreshing. In the mouth, it’s volumous, maintaining complexity, notes of mint, red fruits and some spices, persistent acidity and a beautiful aftertaste.

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For the grand finale, Júlio Bastos opened a bottle of classic from this farm, Quinta do Carmo Garrafeira 1986, previously decanted. It showed violet hues and some brown smatterings, which determined its age; very elegant, a smooth velvety nose and some red fruits. In the mouth, it is delicate, smooth, of deliciously soft tannins, full of complexity, very balanced acidity, persistent, slightly smoked, with a very, very long aftertaste. It gets better if opened a few hours beforehand and proves that Alentejo reds also age well.

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Once outside, in the enormous yard, we were “crushed” by the beauty of the main house, which continues on the inside. Its many rooms lead us almost three centuries back. In a corner of a room, through a secret passage, we can almost see D. João 5th walking in for a stealthy visit to D. Maria, the courtier to whom he had gifted Quinta do Carmo…

Contacts
Quinta do Carmo 7100-055 Estremoz
Telefone: (+351) 268 339 150
Fax: (+351) 268 339 155
Email: donamaria@donamaria.pt
Website: donamaria.pt

Vasques de Carvalho Wines

April 23, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

Cosmic scale aside, ‘a century ago’ is a long way away. Back then, the world was black and white… at least it’s what photographs show. Nonsense aside, reaching that milestone is worth celebrating.

Although not absolutely extraordinary, the truth is few humans get to say they got as far or beyond the one-century-old hurdle. Just a few days ago, Portuguese filmmaker Manoel de Oliveira died at the age of 105. Those who met him say he was very youthful – just like these wines.

The same goes for companies, or for the time a family has lived in a specific location. The moment such a contract is signed is when the story begins. This is a young company, founded in the year 2000, but its roots go back hundreds of years. The Vasques de Carvalho family settled in Vale do Rodo in the mid nineteenth century. They now own twelve acres of old vines, traditionally planted in tiers. Like most Douro farmers, Vasques de Carvalho sold their wine to companies in Gaia. However…

However, not one single year did José Vasques de Carvalho, great grandfather of the current manager, let go of a harvest. He kept everything until 1880. It’s a gem – confirming the vision of this eighteenth-century farmer.

Back to the main point; what can we taste now? Besides Port Wine, Vasques de Carvalho are presenting a wine collection, whose origin is identified as the Douro region. That designation is common to all the wines, as is a very elegant and scented profile. Because the white grapes are bought outside Portugal, I believe the design is oenologist Jaime Costa’s craft, of renowned competence. All the wines are refreshing and elegant.

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Oxum white 2013 in vasquesdecarvalho.com

The 2013 White Oxum encompasses viosinho, gouveio and rabigato grape species – a good conversation starter for passionate oenophiles, who often debate nose and mouth. Jaime Costa, once an army general, uses words like “very mineral, with fruity notes of peach and ripe citrus.” I beg to differ and, in agreement with my tasting partner, would say: delicate without being fragile, with a bouquet of soft jasmine, orange tree blossom and a pinch of lemon. The mouth, unfortunately, is missing something scent-wise. Each chooses one, between these two and other options. All in all… a beautiful wine.

Now, the white is where I mostly disagree with the oenologist, who was persistent on the Douro. To be honest, I find that writing descriptors is dull and I doubt that anybody would buy 0.75 litres of fruits of the forest…

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Oxum red 2012 in vasquesdecarvalho.com

Oxum Red 2012 keeps your appetite keen. Elegant and enjoyable, I feel some Douro in it as well as exceptional elegance. Above it is X Bardos Red 2012 – robust as a knight and pleasant, with remarkable depth in the mouth.

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X Bardos Red 2012 in vasquesdecarvalho.com

The Tawnies we tasted are not alike. Oh, the elegant aromas present in these wines. I did expect the 10-year-old Tawny to stand out more. I believe it could be improved.

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Vasques de Carvalho 10 years Tawny in vasquesdecarvalho.com

Ten years aren’t the same as 40, the comparison being an intellectual exercise. Vasques de Carvalho 40 years is a brilliant wine. Brilliant! Brilliant! Brilliant!

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Vasques de Carvalho 40 years Tawny in vasquesdecarvalho.com

I wish them success, because producers at this level are always welcome. Right, I almost forgot: the company will be selling 750 bottles of the 1880 wine. A few thousand litres of this treasure will remain untouched in the vats. An “all-inclusive” wine, better to taste it for yourself.

Contacts
Vasques Carvalho
Av. Dr. Antão de Carvalho n. 43
5050-224 Peso da Régua
Douro, PORTUGAL
Mobile: (+351) 915 815 830
Tel: (+351) 254 324 263
Fax: (+351) 254 324 263
E-mail: vasquescarvalho43@gmail.com
Website: vasquesdecarvalho.com

Colecção Privada by Domingos Soares Franco Moscatel de Setúbal (Armagnac)

March 30, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

I was born and raised in Alentejo; more precisely in Vila Viçosa. It was life’s wish that, at 18, I come to Lisbon to study. At a time when wine did not mean much to me, except to share at the table with friends, we would occasionally open a bottle or two. And now, destiny has brought me back to live on the other side of the wall from one of the main distributors of wine in the Lisbon region. I cannot remember how many times I walked in there; my memory holds only as much as what I learned from the many hours of conversation and the many wines I bought and got to know throughout the years, many of which came straight from producers. Producers cropped up everywhere at the time, like mushrooms. My interest for the wine world kept growing and growing; I completed every necessary training programme and, thus, was more able to observe how the main references and producers in the industry developed.

One moment I will not forget is when I discoved the remarkable Moscatel de Setúbal by José Maria da Fonseca, or even Bastardinho. For many years – and still today – every time a group of close friends got together for a delicious meal, we had the perfect reason to bring out those bottles of Alambre 20 Years to top off our dessert.

On one of those visits, the latest wine by José Maria da Fonseca had just been released – a Moscatel, which oenologist Domingos Soares Franco had chosen as his model of innovation. He named it Colecção Privada (Private Collection). The product of a 5-year long investigation consisting in experiments with four types of aguardente (Portuguese type of brandy): neutral, Cognac, Armagnac and 50/50 Cognac Armagnac. The Armagnac came out as the favourite, having revealed subtlety, freshness, complexity and harmony during the tasting. The ageing of this wine is done in used wooden casks and does not age any further in the bottles, because it simply doesn’t develop once bottled.

Colecção Privada stands out from the other older wines of superior categories, as it doesn’t have the same gelatinous thick texture; this Armagnac-rich Colecção Privada Domingos Soares Franco 2004 is fresh and delicate, and yet its sweeter side shows. A lot of tangerine, caramel, apricot, lime – an excellently composed taste – elegant and soft thanks to the caramel fruit and orange syrup; the acidity is present until the end. A lasting farewell immersed in a beautiful harmony between scent and palate sensations. For me, a sweet-tooth, it goes exceptionally well with orange pie.

Contacts
Quinta da Bassaqueira – Estrada Nacional 10,
2925-542 Vila Nogueira de Azeitão, Setúbal, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 212 197 500
E-mail: info@jmf.pt
Website: www.jmf.pt

Quinta de Soalheiro – Alvarinho Every Which Way

March 26, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by Sarah Ahmed

Text Sarah Ahmed

‘Scales fall from the eyes.’ It’s a dramatic phrase. One which I use twice in this post so, dear reader, I felt a responsibility to investigate its origin. Perhaps you already know that it comes from the Bible. It is the tale of Saul, a persecutor of Christians who, having had his eyesight restored by a Christian, sees the light and converts to Christianity.

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My conversion to Vinho Verde, or more accurately, Alvarinho, was hardly a religious experience. But I must admit that I have been somewhat evangelical about Alvarinho since I first discovered it some 12 years ago at the Annual Wines of Portugal Tasting. It was an unusually hot, sunny London day – where better to slake my thirst than the Vinho Verde table?

As I took my first sip of Palacio da Brejoeira Alvarinho, I experienced my first scales fall from eyes moment. I learned that Vinho Verde didn’t just come in the shape of off-dry, spritzy, commercial quaffers. The Brejoeira was as elegant and refined as its delicate flute bottle. And it knocked spots off the Rias Baixas Albariño I then sold at Oddbins!

My second scales fall from eyes moment? It was a vertical tasting at Quinta de Soalheiro with winemaker Luis Cerdeira. We tasted this, the first Alvarinho brand in Melgaço, going right back to the 1995 vintage. Another myth busted. Not all Vinho Verde is, as we say in Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine, “DYA” (drink the youngest available). The ’95 (unoaked) was glorious.

Plant the right grape variety (Alvarinho) in the right place (Monçao e Melgaço) and it thrives, even after 14 years in bottle! Going forward, it will pay to check Vinho Verde labels for that all-important sub-region, Monçao e Melgaço, because plans are afoot to allow all Vinho Verde producers, not just those located in Monçao e Melgaço, to put Alvarinho on the front label.

What makes Monçao e Melgaço Alvarinho so special? The clue is in the name of Cerdeira’s quinta. Soalheiro means sunny and, located inland and sheltered from Atlantic influence, Monçao e Melgaço is Vinho Verde’s driest, sunniest region. Maximum yields are lower too. Which explains why this sub-region’s Alvarinhos have the concentration to age so brilliantly, not to mention great complexity and finesse.

I’m looking forward to sharing these ‘scales fall from eyes’ experiences in June at a mini-vertical tasting at Quinta de Soalheiro (and a visit to Palacio da Brejoeira), when I shall be leading Blend-All-About-Wine’s premium tour of top notch Vinho Verde and Douro producers. I hope you can join me.

Here are my notes on the latest releases from Quinta de Soalheiro.

Quinta de Soalheiro Alvarinho Bruto 2013 (Vinho Espumante IG Minho)

Pale yellow with quite sizeable bubbles. Green mango to the nose which follows through on a round and creamy fruit salad palate, very fruit-focused. It’s really quite vinous – more akin to a table wine than a classical sparkler. Also because the bubbles are not very persistent, though the fruit is. Still, I’m very sure Cerdeira is not going for a Champagne-a-like espumante. Rather it’s about showcasing the titular Soalheiro/sunny fruit. Yes, you think only Australia does sunshine in a glass, but this is it. Really friendly, fun and moreish, it brought back memories of my first taste with Cerdeira over a long, convivial lunch at the Panorama restaurant. It was the perfect companion for hearty portions of fresh crab dolloped on a slab of flavoursome, rustic bread. This is for drinking! 12.5%

Quinta de Soalheiro Dócil 2014 (IG Minho)

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This medium dry, round, textural Alvarinho reveals a cascade of flavours as it opens up, from syrupy poached pears, pear skin and lychee to passionfruit. A slow, very gentle, pulse of acidity teases out the flavours. Very different from racier dry styles – a slow mo[tion] Alvarinho. 9%, 48g/l residual sugar.

Quinta de Soalheiro Alvarinho 2014 (Monçao e Melgaço)

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This was a tricky vintage on account of the rain at the end of September and in October, however Soalheiro had already harvested their fruit. The measure of this wine’s concentration and complexity is how good it tastes on day two when honeysuckle, passionfruit and a green edge of hops jumps out of the glass. Very expressive, and on the palate, which displays very succulent passionfruit, lychee and white peach. With crisp, persistent acidity to the finish, it has great appeal for lovers of New Zealand’s powerful Sauvignon Blancs.12.5%

Quinta de Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas Alvarinho 2013 (DOC Monçao e Melgaço)

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‘Primeiras Vinhas’ denotes that this, one of my favourite Alvarinhos, is sourced from Soalheiro’s oldest vines (+30 years old). In an excellent, slow ripening year (with more winter rain than usual and a very dry and hot July and August but cold nights) it is a lovely wine, multi-layered, yet very subtle and elegant in expression. Suffice to say it doesn’t jump out the glass at you like its younger sibling, but seek and ye shall find! A waxy apricot nose and palate reveals layers of pithy orange (an attractive bitter edge) honeysuckle, creamy yellow and white peach, savoury lees and nutty nougat hints (15% of this cuvee is barrel-fermented). Dancing acidity and shimmering minerals lead a very long, lifted finish with terrific back palate resonance. Beautiful. 13%

Quinta de Soalheiro Reserva Alvarinho 2013 (DOC Monçao e Melgaço)

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The Reserva was fermented and aged in (new and used) French oak barrels with “batonnage” on fine lees until the end of Jun 2014. Sometimes I’ve found this wine a little oaky for my taste but, in 2013, it has wonderful clarity to its muscular apricot, peach, lychee and pineapple fruit. A lick of vanilla spice and dried herbs adds interest. Great poise and balance; very good. 13%

Incidentally, Soalheiro’s range of Alvarinhos extends to an aguardente Alvarinho and ‘allo’ a Minho blend of Alvarinho and Loureiro. Like I said, every which way!

Contacts
Quinta de Soalheiro
Alvaredo . Melgaço
4960-010 Alvaredo
Tel: (+351) 251 416 769
Fax: (+351) 251 416 771
E-mail: quinta@soalheiro.com
Website: www.soalheiro.com

Posts Categorized : Several Wines

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In the Bairrada Region, a Producer With a Great Tradition

Quinta do Pessegueiro Presents Its New Goods

Olho no Pé: To Boldly Go Where No Man Has Gone Before

Quinta de Covela – the new wines of 2014

Wine Tradition, History and Production as an Art

Vasques de Carvalho Wines

Colecção Privada by Domingos Soares Franco Moscatel de Setúbal (Armagnac)

Quinta de Soalheiro – Alvarinho Every Which Way