Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

It’s near Felgueiras, and has been practising traditional cuisine for quite a while, even after the required modernisation  of the premises. Entirely leaded by Mr. Carvalho, the owner and chef de cuisine with has an undeniable passion for what he does.

Brasão it’s a very pleasant space, with two separate dining rooms, both displaying the same care for table layout and for the attentive and professional service.

Even though the kitchen is his main post, our host is always running back and forth, ensuring his customers are not neglected, and going from table to table to greet them and find out what they feel like having. He’ll come back to the tables later on, to find out about how they liked it, always wearing a smile and the wisdom of many years handling these products and the kitchen. The point is exactly the quality of the products, for only first class ingredients make part of their stock, from fresh fish from the coast to cod, and all the meats: either pork, beef or calf, and mountain lamb, all of which he turns into unbelievable dishes. This excellent professional reveals a restless search for perfection, even when preparing a mere dessert. Wine is another of his passions, and real treasures can be found in his well-stocked cellar (just to mention an amazing collection of bottles of aguardente – rum-like liquor or spirit –, about which Mr Carvalho is deeply knowledgeable. On our last visit, we were served bread and broa (corn-bread), salpicão (pickled-pork sausage) and thinly sliced presunto (salted or smoked ham) while we waited for one of the house specialities: grouper soup.

Small Toasts – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Grouper soup – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

It’s a real tribute to quality, very fresh fish in generous portions, garlic, lots of onion, green and red pepper, and coriander.

Some toast on a plate, a generous ladle, a bit more steaming broth, an overpowering aroma, and finally voluptuousness, as you eat with your eyes closed.

Afterwards, we tasted a superb oxtail stew with greens, which is very hard to describe such was its perfection, texture and flavour; amazing! Then, another bestseller usually only available on Wednesdays (or by order): roasted ox spareribs.

“Rabo de Boi” – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Roastec Ox Ribs – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The slab of baby back ribs is seasoned and roasted in one piece and then carved in front of you, after the coat of fat is removed.

On your plate, you get slices of meat with that tasty layer of fat, crunchy sliced-potato chips, black beans and a sinful oven-baked rice, which also accompanied the oxtail. We are over the moon!

That’s when dessert is served, an ensemble duet composed of toucinho do céu (‘Bacon from heaven’, a rich-custard sweet which includes no bacon whatsoever) and of a fantastic carrot cake: soft, sprinkled with sugar and slices of roasted almonds, pumpkin jam and some spearmint leaves… now this is heaven on Earth!

The wines were up to scratch: first we drank a white from the Amarante area, called Sem Igual (Nothing like it); very floral, with notes of citrus and white fruit, a remarkable elegance on the mouth, a beautiful modern wine. To “counterbalance” the meats, no better than a sparkling red made from the Vinhão variety, Afros Yakkos Grand Reserve 2006. Simply fantastic, with very fine bubbles, persistent fruits of the forest, notes of dark chocolate, intense yet simultaneously elegant tannins, and a long lasting finish. To go along with the dessert, the choice of an old aguardente – really old –, the classic Adega Velha. This one was over 50 years old; beautiful, slightly cooled, with toasted aromas, dried fruits, in a lovely contrast with the sweetness.

Sem Igual, Afros Yakkos Grande Reserva 2006 & Aguardente Velha Adega Velha – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Aguardente Velha Serradayres – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

However, a surprise was yet to come, just the way Mr Carvalho’s likes it: another very old aguardente, which I hadn’t seen for 10 years, a Serradayres. Also over fifty years old, incredibly soft and very elegant, it made a perfect finish for a great meal.

In Brasão, tradition is kept alive…

Contacts
Cimo de Vila – Refontoura
4610 Felgueiras
Tel: (+351) 255 336 118
E-mail: info@restaurante-brasao.pt
Website: www.restaurante-brasao.pt