Herdade do Arrepiado Velho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

The maddening heat outside was close to 40ºC as the GPS announced “Herdade do Arrepiado Velho”. This new wine producer is very near Sousel, in Alto Alentejo, and is part of the São Mamede wine route. The Arrepiado Velho hill was bought and restored by a couple from Porto; the vineyard was planted and, today, oenology is taken care of by António Maçanita.

The friendly couple, António Antunes and Marta Neto, were expecting us. He is the owners’ son, and became so involved in the project he decided to settle down in Herdade do Arrepiado Velho. His wife, Marta Neto, works in Design and is the mind behind the beautiful prized labels. If you are interested in knowing more about wine tourism and its history, I would recommend reading this article by José Silva.

I shall be telling you the story of my relationship with the wines from Herdade do Arrepiado Velho, which began with the very first vintage. People often say first impressions are very important. In my case, it wasn’t love at first tasting; in fact, I actually berated the wines I tasted at the time. They obviously deserved a second chance, as all wines do, which for me is always decisive.

António presented the whites one by one, in a peaceful and relaxed tasting by the pool. At first, and considering what had been engraved in my memory, they seemed tuned up and tidier in terms of the profile; fresh, highlighting the fruit, in turn juicy and with great presence. Even so, they have a different signature from the rest, such as Herdade do Arrepiado Antão Vaz 2014, whose variety escapes the sad heavy monotony that hovered over wines of this variety throughout Alentejo. I am glad everything changed, and oenology realised that it was not the right path. This one is tense, and the fruit is clean and quite fresh; you don’t feel the taste of canned pineapple, much on the contrary. A compact aroma, vibrant, and with a light touch of ripe fruit. In the palate, it shows some austerity, then dryness in the finish, the blend marked by the fruit, but which will be revived after some time in the bottle.

Arrepiado Velho Riesling 2013 – Photo Provided by Arrepiado Velho | All Rights Reserved

Riesling de Netas 2011 – Photo Provided by Arrepiado Velho | All Rights Reserved

Beside it were three bottles of Riesling. Arrepiado Velho Riesling 2013 confirms the variety’s description in the nose: a lot of fruit including grapefruit, apricot, a bit of buttery sauce and the background is slightly tar-like. In these cases, we switch off the plug that connects us directly to Germany and just enjoy the wine and the variety. I am convinced by the good mood these Rieslings provide; we must not forget the region they come from. We had a quick taste of the 2014, which did not prove very talkative, and required a little more time in the bottle. So be it. Lastly, the peculiar Riesling de Netas 2011, in which year the vineyard was destroyed from mildew, and towards the end of the vintage, a second production (known as “netas”, meaning granddaughters) of the Reasling was beginning to ripen; the vinage would be done in November. The wine almost reminds you of a late harvest; its aroma is more refined and has a marked buttery feel to it, it’s jelly-like, and round in the nose. In the mouth rules the lovely freshness, also cradling the fruit; there’s some rounding of the wood with the finish revealing light mineral austerity.

The top of the range of whites, Arrepiado Colection white 2013, was the white I liked best. It’s one of those whites that combine the lovely freshness of the blend with serenity conveyed by its brief stay in wood. Notes of toasted bread, clean fruit (citrus, apricot) and ripe, light jelly with floral presence. A very well structured wine that captivates you and invites you for another glass, revealing very good freshness in the mouth, full of flavour and pleasure.

In what comes to reds, I would highlight Arrepiado Collection 2011, which appears as an opulent wine, very lively and full of strength, refreshing, and very well prepared wood. The fruit is dark, ripe and dripping with flavour; beautiful complexity with a little balsam and some spices in the background. In the mouth, it’s full-bodied, has a lot of vigour, is intense and flavourful, a natural head-turner with class and character, ending in a lasting and persistent finish.

Left to the end was the same wine whose first vintage made me frown; the one from a special edition called Brett Edition. Said wine made its entrance in the first year with a beastly load, which was thought of as interesting and worthy of the market. That same wild beast chased me off the wine straight away. You see, if I can barely tolerate just a touch, accepting the entire herd running through my glass was not easy. Time went by, and here I am now, faced with a new vintage; in this case the 2011, which – let’s say  – did not seem beastly at all. Even if there is some beast in it, it is quite tolerated and fits in with so many other wines from other places in the complexity of the wine. That said, I was quite convinced by the wine, and I enjoyed the freshness of the dark and red fruits (mulberry and blueberry). Even dense, it’s blended with many peppers, leather, a box of cigars, dark chocolate and a hint of mint. All that wrapped in a lot of freshness in this beautiful Syrah.

Contacts
Herdade do Arrepiado Velho
Tel.:(+351) 256 392 675
Fax: (+351) 256 392 676

António Antunes
E-Mail: amantunes@arrepiadovelho.com
Tel.: (+351) 913 256 056

Marta Neto
E-Mail: mneto@arrepiadovelho.com
Tel.: (+351) 910 868 661

Website: www.arrepiadovelho.com

João Portugal Ramos

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

João Portugal Ramos got a degree in Agronomy from Instituto Superior de Agronomia (Higher Institute of Agronomy) in 1977. He got an internship with Centro de Estudos da Estação Vitivinícola Nacional de Dois Portos (Dois Portos Station of National Viticulture study centre), after which he started working as an associate-oenologist in Coopetavia da Vidigueira, Alentejo, in 1980. After a short time, during which he briefly worked at Casa Agrícola Almodôvar in 1982, his red Paço dos Infantes 1982 was awarded Best Wine in the Production. From there, he moved on to Adega Cooperativa de Reguengos de Mosaraz, where he helped create the brand “Garrafeira dos Sócios”. Building on all that experience, João Portugal Ramos set up his first company, called Consulvinos, at the end of the mentioned decade, with the goal of answering the many requests from several producers. Along his path to glory, he created a few mythical items such as Tapada do Chaves, Quinta do Carmo or Cooperativa de Portalegre. From 1989 onwards, Consulvinus took its activity beyond Alentejo, as far as Ribatejo, Península de Setúbal, Dão, Beiras, Estremadura and Douro.

In 1990, João Portugal Ramos planted the first twelve acres of vines in Estremoz, where he settled down in 1988 to begin his personal project. Construction work began for the Estremoz cellar, in Monte da Caldeira, in 1997, and an extension was done in 2000. The success and awards collected by “his” wines throughout his career also brought him national and international recognition as one of the people behind the evolution of Portuguese wines. As a result of his expertise, a few of Portugal’s greater wines were born. Many are still made in pots. Those wines have made history, and have had the unique opportunity to make a mark on many an oenophile’s path, as they did mine. There are many examples, and in almost all of them, including the 80s wines, they still boast an enviable shape in the tasting.

In response to high demand, he recently invested in Vinho Verde; having previously created project Duorum together with oenologist José Maria Soares Franco, in the Douro region. After some 13 years without a single new brand of Alentejo wine, except for the top-of-the-range, he created Pouca Roupa, a brand with hugely successful sales. As usual, and it couldn’t be otherwise, consumers have determined the success of this inevitable name in Oenology.

On my latest visit to the cellar, during a cheerful conversation with Engineer João Portugal Ramos, the most recent vintages in the market were put to the test; I would like to underline the 2014 whites, which shine bright thanks to a year of exceptional quality. Straight away, I was proposed tasting the most recent vintage side-by-side with an earlier vintage; we began with Vila Santa. Vila Santa red is born from a 1991 vintage. At the time, they were still made in pots, and got an early reputation for one of the best price/satisfaction ratios in Portugal. The quality is there, vintage after vintage, its profile having suffered the necessary adjustments while maintaining the Vila Santa “style” – enjoyable while young, such as the 2012, or with a few years in the bottle, as proven by the 2009.

Then, we tasted Quinta da Viçosa. As I see it, one of the producer’s boldest wines, which provide a blend of his best varieties with every vintage. Now tasting Quinta da Viçosa 2012 (Aragonês/Petit Verdot) and the 2011 Touriga Nacional (Cabernet Sauvignon). Most evident is the oenologist’s very personal stamp. The fruit earns the spotlight, clean and always fresh, dusted and embedded in an always quite vigorous blend, the kind of vigour that enables you to prolong all of his wines in moderation for a very unusual length of time. Regarding the wines, the 2012 was still very vigorous, too young, which turned me towards the 2011. That pinch of Cabernet Sauvignon reminded me of Bordeaux and owned me on the spot, although the two other still too young wines need some more time in the bottle. For these two wines, it’s an easy choice: either pork or steer beef, well seasoned, and any combination with wild boar, deer or big game is always a win.

The last phase of the tasting was graced with the presence of what is considered one of the “new” Alentejo classics, Marquês de Borba Reserva. It was first released in the 1997 vintage, and based on merit, earned its right to the first place among the nation’s wines. This wine’s evolution is remarkable; proven by tasting the 1999, currently in a masterly shape and looking at a long life ahead. This 1999 may have been the best to date for its maker, to which I would add the 2012. Although in a kindergarten phase, the 2013 tasting proved it still needs tidying up: everything is all over the place, many boxes left unopened; it needs time. In the meantime, the 2012 makes a clearer point; it boasts a head-turning luxury blend. The wood/fruit connection provides the wine with a high level of sensuality and elegance; in the palate, everything I said before is confirmed. At the moment, the most noble and most delicate foods are the stars: a Partridge Stew makes the perfect match.

Estremus 2011, currently the producer’s top-of-the-range, was left to the end, although we had a glance at its yet-to-be-released new edition. However, all eyes were on the 2011, and with good reason; a wine that isn’t born in an old vineyard is a monument to class and determination. It shows a lot of finesse, its fruit on a very high level of definition and freshness, in the background you can feel the vigour and character of a great wine, a sleeping giant full of surprises for the future. Its tasting comes up against a healthy austerity in the palate, the tannins still haven’t settled; in the nose, with every twirl of the glass, the complexity starts to unfold. Once again, João Portugal Ramos’ oenology produces a grand wine, and so it has been for the last three decades. Wow.

Contacts
João Portugal Ramos Vinhos S.A.
Vila Santa
7100-149 Estremoz
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 268 339 910
Fax: (+351) 268 339 918
Website: www.jportugalramos.com

Herdade do Rocim

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

A dream turned into desire; a will turned into reality; this is how, between Vidigueira and Cuba, Herdade do Rocim came to be. This wine producer in Alentejo relies on a piece of land about 250 acres big; it was acquired in 2000 by José Ribeiro Vieira, a businessman in Leiria, upon request from one of his daughters, Catarina Vieira, an oenologist.

The land underwent restructuring and qualification work for 6 long years, which included planting most of the vines, which today covers 150 acres, 100 of which grow red varieties, and 50 acres grow white. The highlight of the project was when they built a cellar perfectly in tune with the landscape; the area’s top features are the wine tourism and its ability to embrace the many cultural initiatives.

These days, Herdade do Rocim is included in the big producers with headquarters in Alentejo. It relies on a team of three oenologists, comprising Catarina Vieira, Pedro Ribeiro and Vânia Guibarra. Nothing is overlooked there, which is the reason for the precision and good taste that took over the farm, located very near Vidigueira. We can tell, in the entire range of wines and products sold, the detail and affection they are wrapped in. Even in the way they are presented, every detail is seen to. Once again, a world of small treats, under a feminine hand, that of producer Catarina Vieira.

The wine range has been expanding, the labels undergoing the necessary aesthetic adjustments, and the wines the necessary profile adjustments, and prove better and better with every harvest. From the whites to the reds, they turn out refreshing and appealing most of all; the fruit isn’t heavy at all, and its profile always reveals a good harmony between the components. All the wines are cuisine-appropriate. People who say Alentejo wines have no freshness, or are unable to last the test of time, are proven wrong by this bunch. Herdade de Rocim is part of the group of producers who have shown a will and the skills to demystify all those lies told over and over again. Also resulting from that will are a few recent products, such as a Espumante (sparkling wine) or, actually, the Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet as varieties. I could even enhance the Rosé from the Mariana range, or compliment the colossal top-of-the-range Grande Rocim.

However, to me, the most touching wines were Amphora, a white and a red, born and raised in the famous Alentejo amphoras. They are unique, bearing the soul and identity of an entire region. These wines are the image of their creator, Sr. Pedro, the maker in Herdade do Rocim who is on first name terms with the pots. He certainly knows them from a small age, and feels like he and the art were raised together. And so these two wines catapulted me to a time in the past I will never see again; after all, these wines are the ones that, by being so simple, sometimes grow to be so great and so complex. I sailed on the aromas, the scents that invoke memories, amused by my desire to pour and drink another glass, feeling no exhaustion whatsoever and with a smile on my face. I could see that same smile on Sr. Pedro’s face while we chatted.

The white Amphora, just like the red, is produced in a traditional fashion and makes no contact with stainless steel or wood. It’s made from Antão Vaz, Perrum, Rabo de Ovelha and Manteúdo, the difference being the hue, which evokes the colour of brass. Then, it’s time for all the aroma paraphernalia; after some time in the glass, it makes complete sense. In a mix of resin and vegetables, the ripe fruit is clear and surrounded by flowers, all very fresh and inviting, mysterious and captivating. In the mouth, it wins you over for the simple refreshing way it strokes your palate; it stays true to itself while inviting you for another sip.

The red Amphora blend includes Aragonez, Trincadeira, Moreto and Tinta Grossa varieties. Its colour, an open hue of ruby with very present fruit (fruits of the forest, strawberry, plum), and wrapped in a thin layer of clay. In the background, some resin, a hint of smoke, cocoa powder. It’s a very fresh and tireless profile that captivates you with its simplicity, and with the joy it reveals and introduces itself. It comprises the simplicity of a people and the warm hug of a land. In the palate, you taste the fruit, the slightly dry finish and that taste of dry clay at the same time as it suggests some food and sitting down for a chat.

Contacts
Estrada Nacional 387 | Apartado 64
7940-909 Cuba, Alentejo
Tel: (+351) 284 415 180
Fax: (+351) 284 415 188
E-mail: enoturismo@herdadedorocim.com | administrativo@herdadedorocim.com
Website: www.herdadedorocim.com

Santos da Casa

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

When you talk about oenologist Hélder Cunha, his name is immediately followed by the project Monte Cascas (See Sarah Ahmed’s article here for more), in which a field-less and cellar-less oenologist is able to create authentic terroir wines from Douro to Alentejo. This is how founders of Santos & Seixo’s challenged this oenologist to rely on that Philosophy: one brand, different regions (“Verde”, Douro and Alentejo), and the wines will be split into “Colheita”, “Reserva” and “Grande Reserva”.

This range is expected to be modern and appealing on the outside, but original and refined on the inside, the virtue-rich wines tempting you to taste and drink. In this case, Colheita 2012, from the Douro – and the first I tasted – stands out for its fruit’s beautiful ability to express itself, revealing, however, the lands where it grew.

When relating wine to the popular festivities dedicated to Patron Saints – now beginning to buzz in Portugal from North to South – the aforementioned wine is one I recommend to bring to the table. I say this because, as previously mentioned, it’s a good wine to drink. Besides, in honour of St. Anthony, the matchmaker, this wine will perfectly marry a wide range of delicacies very popular this time of year. Don’t shy away from cooling it before drinking it with a Roast Sardine with broa (cornbread) during the São João fete, in Porto.

The word “Macio” (soft) stands out on the attractive label, which is more obvious when you drink it, and also a healthy and, should I say, clever way to connect with the consumer. The word Macio answers any doubts about a barely known wine. Its price is soft enough – costing around €5 (about £3.5) – and it’s easily found in supermarkets.

Santos da Casa Douro 2012 comprises Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz, from three plots of land, and the resulting batch spent 9 months in wood. What’s obvious at first is the ripe fruit’s expression wrapped in freshness, a light toasty feeling in the background and a pinch of cocoa, pepper and vegetable in a touch of austerity true to that region. In the mouth, it’s soft, filled with freshness and fruit, crackling with flavour and cohesive, its profile a guaranteed pleasure.

Contacts
Santos & Seixo – Wine Exports, Lda.
Av. Dom João II, Lote 1.02.2.1-D, Piso 1 – Escritório 6 – 7
1990 – 091 Parque das Nações
Tel: (+351) 21 82 223 08
Fax: (+351) 21 80 578 91
E-Mail: geral@santoseseixo.pt
Website: www.santoseseixo.pt