Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Álvaro Costa was born in Pousada de Saramagos, Famalicão, in 1978. He studied there, and then started working as a teacher in Vila Verde. He loved to go pick vegetables from his garden and handle fish and meat; his grandmothers, his mother and his aunts passed traditional skills onto him. In Vila Verde, he graduated in cuisine and patisserie. Then, he worked for about a year in Hotel Meridien, in Porto. After that, he went to work in a hotel in the Island of Corsica, having stayed for another year. On that island, he seized the opportunity to work for six months at Cala Tossa hotel, of two Michelin stars. For the following six months, he got an internship at Hotel Bulgari in Milan, and in Paris, in the also two-Michelin-star hotel Le Grand Cascade. From there, he opened Sheraton hotel in Porto, with Chef Jerónimo Ferreira. Then, Café Bogani and República da Cerveja in Gaia, as an executive chef. In 2006 he took over the Carlton Pestana hotel in the Ribeira area, Porto, until 2012. He was also responsible for the gastronomic development of inns in the North. He moved on to manage the Pestana hotel in Porto Santo (Madeira), to later return to Porto to open Pestana do Freixo. He even taught in Portucalense University and moved on to Braga, to manage the Bom Jesus hotels.

However, he could not resist the invitation for Head of Gastronomy at the new hotel NH Hotel Batalha Collection, where he has been developing a modern and interventive cuisine.

This is a modern hotel, and very well decorated, full of light. It’s in a symbolic area of Porto, right next to the old Batalha cinema.

The decor comes in light tones, revealing some granite, also characteristic of the city.

The restaurant is at the entrance, the bar to the left, where one can eat in an unpretentious yet welcoming environment; whether in-house-marinated salmon, daring oysters, dark tagliatelle with king prawns, or a very fresh lime risotto.

In-house-marinated salmon – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

King prawns – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Lime Riostto – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

At the bar, very interesting happy hours take place, featuring an irresistible offer: oysters with gin.

The service is remarkable, and the chef’s expertise proposes different appetisers and more consistent courses, strongly rooted in our traditions. For a long time, Porto was due a place like this. On a recent visit, we had the chance to enjoy an excellent meal, including some of the suggestions on the restaurant’s menu; very well presented, introducing a few traditional courses in a row, although with the chef’s own interpretation, inventively and pleasantly presented.

We began with the marinated oyster, still tasting of the sea.

After that, acorn presunto with melon caviar, whose tiny greenish spheres released a fresh taste of melon; modern techniques serving tradition.

The very popular traditional sardines made an appearance, in a cured version with strawberry couli, incredibly refreshing.

Representing a soup, a shitaki cream was served in a disconcerting test tube, very hot; an excellent mushroom soup!

In the meantime, we were sipping a very interesting Alentejo Pouca Roupa white 2014.

King prawn curry – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

My Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The extremely tasty king prawn curry with apple preceded “My Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá” (codfish casserole), a very successful version of this traditional meal by a man born in Ribeira do Porto, Gomes de Sá. The original flavours were all there.

We ended with a peculiar version of oven-roasted chicken with vegetables and potatoes; fun and delicious. We had already moved on to Curvos Alvarinho wine; modern and consistent, with great acidity, very gastronomic.

Apple pie with S. Jorge cheese and ice cream – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Red-fruit verrine – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

As for desserts, there were two very good moments: firstly an apple pie with S. Jorge cheese and ice cream; very well combined, creamy, a delight; then, a very elegant red-fruit verrine.

A great finish!

Outside, the 22 tram passed by, reminding us of times gone by…

Contacts
NH Collection Porto Batalha
Praca da Batalha, 60-65. 4000-101, Porto, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 227 660 600
Booking: (+351) 210 020 848
E-mail: nhcollectionportobatalha@nh-hotels.com
Website: www.nh-collection.com