Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

In one of the many intertwined streets in Évora, we find Rua do Inverno (“Winter street”).

But the eatery we are after radiates human heat all year round; it’s called Taberna Típica Quarta-Feira (Wednesday Typical Tavern).

A small, rustic, charming space, a pleasant, tidy room, and a lovely counter with an arch made of ochre bricks, behind which is the kitchen.

Tables are well set and Alentejo wine bottles are found all about. The air carries easily recognisable scents of Alentejo seasoning.

Taberna Típica Quarta-Feira is run by José Dias – his friends call him Zé Dias –, born in Sabugal, Beiras, in 1948. In 1964, he travelled to Évora to work in a printer’s, and eventually settled. Later, 25 years ago, he opened up a restaurant (after having managed a café and a snack-bar).

In the kitchen is D. Luísa. She came to live in Évora 24 years ago from Monte do Trigo, Portel. They met through one of her sisters and, given her talent for cuisine, Zé Dias wouldn’t let her escape the restaurant whose kitchen she has since been in charge of. In that kitchen, they practise traditional Alentejo cuisine. Oven-roast lamb and esparregado – a puree of green vegetables, flour and milk – are a reference. Zé Dias’ jovial and friendly character makes up the rest.

In the restaurant, we enjoyed many of the exhibited wines; some have been out of the market for a long time, but Zé Dias keeps them and manages them, so that his many returning customers can enjoy them. The latter come from all over the country, including some foreigners, thanks to the restaurant’s popularity. Zé Dias takes us in, walks us to our table, guides us through what we will be eating, places orders in the kitchen, opens wine bottles and, most of all, amuses us with his many stories full of very interesting characters. However, Zé Dias treats everyone equally: kindly and hospitably.

Alentejo Bread – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Gammon – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

At the table, the amazing Alentejo bread arrived to accompany the very thin presunto (gammon) and delicious paio de porco preto (smoked black-pork sausage prepared with garlic, sweet pepper and white wine).

Paio de Porco Preto – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Stuffed Mushroom – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Also, a huge stuffed mushroom, served very hot.

The dry rice and that fantastic esparregado with a hint of vinegar paid excellent company to the oven-roasted nape of the neck of black-pork with browned diced potatoes; everything was served very hot. The table went quiet. The house white and red wines, Paulo Laureano‘s responsibility (read Sarah Ahmed’s article about Paulo Laureano here), kept flowing through the glasses.

For dessert, we had an encharcada (egg and almond pudding) and bolo de bolacha, made in-house – an irresistible treat. Lastly, we had some plump cherries from Fundão, freshly delivered.

Diet starts tomorrow!!

Zé Dias’ farewell is always: “See you soon!”

Contacts
Rua do Inverno, 16 – 18
7000 – 599 Évora
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 266 70 75 30