Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne

João Portugal Ramos got a degree in Agronomy from Instituto Superior de Agronomia (Higher Institute of Agronomy) in 1977. He got an internship with Centro de Estudos da Estação Vitivinícola Nacional de Dois Portos (Dois Portos Station of National Viticulture study centre), after which he started working as an associate-oenologist in Coopetavia da Vidigueira, Alentejo, in 1980. After a short time, during which he briefly worked at Casa Agrícola Almodôvar in 1982, his red Paço dos Infantes 1982 was awarded Best Wine in the Production. From there, he moved on to Adega Cooperativa de Reguengos de Mosaraz, where he helped create the brand “Garrafeira dos Sócios”. Building on all that experience, João Portugal Ramos set up his first company, called Consulvinos, at the end of the mentioned decade, with the goal of answering the many requests from several producers. Along his path to glory, he created a few mythical items such as Tapada do Chaves, Quinta do Carmo or Cooperativa de Portalegre. From 1989 onwards, Consulvinus took its activity beyond Alentejo, as far as Ribatejo, Península de Setúbal, Dão, Beiras, Estremadura and Douro.

In 1990, João Portugal Ramos planted the first twelve acres of vines in Estremoz, where he settled down in 1988 to begin his personal project. Construction work began for the Estremoz cellar, in Monte da Caldeira, in 1997, and an extension was done in 2000. The success and awards collected by “his” wines throughout his career also brought him national and international recognition as one of the people behind the evolution of Portuguese wines. As a result of his expertise, a few of Portugal’s greater wines were born. Many are still made in pots. Those wines have made history, and have had the unique opportunity to make a mark on many an oenophile’s path, as they did mine. There are many examples, and in almost all of them, including the 80s wines, they still boast an enviable shape in the tasting.

In response to high demand, he recently invested in Vinho Verde; having previously created project Duorum together with oenologist José Maria Soares Franco, in the Douro region. After some 13 years without a single new brand of Alentejo wine, except for the top-of-the-range, he created Pouca Roupa, a brand with hugely successful sales. As usual, and it couldn’t be otherwise, consumers have determined the success of this inevitable name in Oenology.

On my latest visit to the cellar, during a cheerful conversation with Engineer João Portugal Ramos, the most recent vintages in the market were put to the test; I would like to underline the 2014 whites, which shine bright thanks to a year of exceptional quality. Straight away, I was proposed tasting the most recent vintage side-by-side with an earlier vintage; we began with Vila Santa. Vila Santa red is born from a 1991 vintage. At the time, they were still made in pots, and got an early reputation for one of the best price/satisfaction ratios in Portugal. The quality is there, vintage after vintage, its profile having suffered the necessary adjustments while maintaining the Vila Santa “style” – enjoyable while young, such as the 2012, or with a few years in the bottle, as proven by the 2009.

Then, we tasted Quinta da Viçosa. As I see it, one of the producer’s boldest wines, which provide a blend of his best varieties with every vintage. Now tasting Quinta da Viçosa 2012 (Aragonês/Petit Verdot) and the 2011 Touriga Nacional (Cabernet Sauvignon). Most evident is the oenologist’s very personal stamp. The fruit earns the spotlight, clean and always fresh, dusted and embedded in an always quite vigorous blend, the kind of vigour that enables you to prolong all of his wines in moderation for a very unusual length of time. Regarding the wines, the 2012 was still very vigorous, too young, which turned me towards the 2011. That pinch of Cabernet Sauvignon reminded me of Bordeaux and owned me on the spot, although the two other still too young wines need some more time in the bottle. For these two wines, it’s an easy choice: either pork or steer beef, well seasoned, and any combination with wild boar, deer or big game is always a win.

The last phase of the tasting was graced with the presence of what is considered one of the “new” Alentejo classics, Marquês de Borba Reserva. It was first released in the 1997 vintage, and based on merit, earned its right to the first place among the nation’s wines. This wine’s evolution is remarkable; proven by tasting the 1999, currently in a masterly shape and looking at a long life ahead. This 1999 may have been the best to date for its maker, to which I would add the 2012. Although in a kindergarten phase, the 2013 tasting proved it still needs tidying up: everything is all over the place, many boxes left unopened; it needs time. In the meantime, the 2012 makes a clearer point; it boasts a head-turning luxury blend. The wood/fruit connection provides the wine with a high level of sensuality and elegance; in the palate, everything I said before is confirmed. At the moment, the most noble and most delicate foods are the stars: a Partridge Stew makes the perfect match.

Estremus 2011, currently the producer’s top-of-the-range, was left to the end, although we had a glance at its yet-to-be-released new edition. However, all eyes were on the 2011, and with good reason; a wine that isn’t born in an old vineyard is a monument to class and determination. It shows a lot of finesse, its fruit on a very high level of definition and freshness, in the background you can feel the vigour and character of a great wine, a sleeping giant full of surprises for the future. Its tasting comes up against a healthy austerity in the palate, the tannins still haven’t settled; in the nose, with every twirl of the glass, the complexity starts to unfold. Once again, João Portugal Ramos’ oenology produces a grand wine, and so it has been for the last three decades. Wow.

Contacts
João Portugal Ramos Vinhos S.A.
Vila Santa
7100-149 Estremoz
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 268 339 910
Fax: (+351) 268 339 918
Website: www.jportugalramos.com