Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Jani Dunne
Thanks to Grandpa Alfeu and his dedication to vineyards and to the field, his grandson João Amado, founder of Amado Wines, felt inspired to begin a new adventure: producing his own wine. He created a brand that is, most of all, a tribute to a man in the field, in love with the earth, inseparable from his hat – now featured on the labels.
I first heard about this project last year, around the time when Festival do Vinho do Douro Superior (Douro Superior Wine Festival) takes place, in Vila Nova de Foz Coa, and is aimed entirely at producers from the Douro Superior sub-region. This event is one of the few where it is possible to discover new talents, meaning producers who, in away, have never been heard of, nor was a word ever written about their work. That is why these events are organised; to show us they welcome us with open arms and are happy to present their work.
This was how I came to hear about the wines; last year, when João Amado wished to pay tribute to his grandfather, and whose new harvests have very recently been tasted. Joana Maçanita oversees Oenology (see Maçanita Douro article). Both Alfeu white 2013 and Alfeu red 2012 have displayed a strong character – given the region – and a little boldness, which goes down so well on me.
Alfeu white 2013, comprising Viosinho and Malvasia Fina in a beautiful 12.5% alcohol, presents a cohesive body, with a lot of fruit alongside aromatic herbs, a touch of flowers and a refreshing background. The palate is also distinguished for its ripe fruit and jam, the wine is slightly dry and memorable for its strong persistence.
Alfeu red 2012 contains Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz, the former in the lead. Cohesive, with a lot of ripe fruit surrounded by dark chocolate, and with a twirl of the glass, some flowers emerge, suggesting Touriga Nacional. A very faint austerity is present from the beginning in a serious body with good energy. A firm wine based on a solid structure. From the first sip, it shows vigour and a pinch of austerity that comes from the cheekier tannins. The fruit bursts with flavour along with cocoa; it ends somewhat dry, and begging for a lamb roast, or for some more time in the cellar.
In the producer’s cellar, two more reds still age; two new releases composed of 100% Touriga Nacional, and one Reserve. In the tasting, they proved still a little green and not very ready to face the world. They are, however, as serious as the rest of the range, and are very centred on the fruit, but revealing a leap in quality.
Contacts
Amado Wines
Quinta do Meio, Relva
6430-075 Longroiva, Mêda
E-Mail: geral@amadowines.com
Website: www.amadowines.com
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