Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Founded in 1908 the Região Demarcada do Dão is Portugal’s most ancient still wines’ region. Historically a great wines cradle, witnessed, two decades earlier, the birth of Casa da Passarela, an emblematic producer where legendary portuguese oenology names left their mark on, such as the longing Dr. Mário Pato and Eng. Alberto Vilhena, among many others. Nowadays Casa da Passarela has around 100 hectares of which 45 are vineyard, split in seven parcels with unique and differentiative characteristics whether by the varieties diversity or different exposures and soils. From those only 4,4 hectares are old vineyards to which join four centennial parcels of reduced productivity, outside the property.

The first registry, with the brand Villa Oliveira, is dated to 1893. In the meantime there were periods of more and less longing, however this rebirth of Casa da Passarella is due to the recent 2008 harvest. Now, after 6 years have gone by, we can see a remarkable consistency in the wines of this “new” producer. It is the right time to take notice of the upcoming releases. Joining in to the great oenology names that wrote their name on this house we have the signature of the enologist Paulo Nunes, a great communicator, as much in the passionate way that he explains his wines, as the effectively way he guides the vines’ identity into the bottle.

Having a good raw material along with someone who can interpret it, the result can only be a gamut which is founded on a well delineated matrix in a pure symbiosis with an identifying trace of the true exemplars of the Dao region, specifically in the Serra da Estrela sub-region.
Therefore we’re before a combination of modernity and tradition, resulting in very appealing wines. In the Casa da Passarella gamut everything starts with the “A Descoberta”, more direct wines where the fruit gets highlighted by the the freshness with which shows itself. Joining in is the “Abanico” in the red Reserva type, the gamut’s most robust and tense wine, prevailing the Touriga Nacional in a set that shows some austerity and that clearly was made to last.

Next, the “OEnólogo” range where the 2013 white with a surfacing youth shows the Encruzado variety in a still tense and mineral profile. The “OEnólogo” Vinhas Velhas red has a too tempting set by the way the fruit/freshness/wood combine themselves in a greatly harmonious set. Pure pleasure at the table!
[Check out our article on this range’s previous year]

It’s from those old vines that come the range’s two top wines, the Villa Oliveira. The Villa Oliveira Encruzado 2012 has been accommodating itself on the bottle, more mature and serious than in the last tasting earlier this year. Slightly marked by rusk and vanilla from the wood where it staged on, underneath it has fresh and juicy fruit, ample and complex set. A lot of pleasure during the tasting and asking for white meat with creamy sauce. The Villa Oliveira Touriga Nacional 2010 follows the Reserva’s footsteps, tense, muscled with austerity and freshness, plenty of juicy fruit in the nose and mouth, a set yet to untie its strings, things only time will allow.

Surging forth is Casa da Passarela “Enxertia” 2011, a new brand which will show the best varietal of each harvest, being 2011 in charge of the Alfrocheiro. Attractive aroma with lots of black fruits (blackberry, raspberry, berry), plenty of harmony and life with pine needles, slight balsamic with a background of spices. Fresh and complex set, one of this variety’s finest exemplars.

To finish off were introduced two new wines, set to launch next year, inserted in the “O Fugitivo” range, wines that happen, intimate visions of the enologist in very limited quantities as is to be expected. In this case the O Fugitivo Garrafeira white 2013, where the Encruzado mixes with old vineyards resulting in only 2500 bottles coming to the market in about a year from now. Less marked by wood than Villa Oliveira, very tense, full of nerve, cohese and deep, fresh and mature fruit with acidity in the tasting, accentuated minerality in the mouth’s final. It’s a great white which has everything to shine in higher flights.

The O Fugitivo Vinhas Centenárias red 2011 is born from four parcels of vineyard, with over 100 years, red varieties with some white-brown mixed in. The result is an outstanding wine, daring even, clearly out of the current context. Scented set, freshness with balsamic, bergamot, entangling and complex, a soft note of mature rachis in the background. Plenty of energy, austere mouth, red juicy fruit and a rising harmony. Already asking strongly tempered dishes, a great wine as it fits the Dão’s image!

Contacts
Rua Santo Amaro, 3, Passarela
6290-093 Lagarinhos
Tel: (+351) 238 486 312
Fax: (+351) 238 486 218
E-mail: info@casadapassarella.pt
Site: www.casadapassarella.pt