Between the Serra de Sintra and the Atlantic Ocean, 25km Northwest of Lisbon there is a very old, small wine-growing zone with production dating back to the year 1255. This has been (since 1908) Europe’s westernmost Demarcated Region and the smallest wine producing region of Portugal.
The Vat Room © Blend All About Wine, Lda.
The Vat Room by João Pedro de Carvalho
The history of the Colares wine is long and is lost in the pages of time; their wines are still part of the wine lover’s memories and are in demand by the more dedicated and curious tasters. In fact, the region has been lost in the whirlwind of the modern era, the train of novelty, and fell into oblivion with the gradual abandonment of the activity on the part of the local people. This contributed to the gradual disappearance of the quantity of existing vineyards.
The most important producer of the region, with the ability to certificate all the DOC Colares wine, is the Adega Regional de Colares, founded in 1931, bringing together more than 50% of the production in the region and more than 90% of the producers.
After receiving the grapes, the grape must is subsequently sold raw and worked in their associated wine cellars as is the Adega Viúva Gomes.
Today, step by step the region begins to awaken by the result of the effort and dedication of some producers.
In addition to the Adega Regional, the main center of winemaking in the region, there are still two more new producers, the Oriente Foundation and the Casal Sta. Maria. Part of this effort, this healthy stubbornness to strengthen the image and quality of the wines of the region has a face, the oenologist Francisco Figueiredo (Adega Regional de Colares). A sparkle shows in his eyes when he speaks to us of the region, its wines and in particular the Ramisco grape variety, that he both loves and defends. We devoted a whole morning although it had started rainy, to exploring the region, the wines and the vineyards.
Francisco Figueiredo © Blend All About Wine, Lda.
Only focusing on the vineyards on sandy ground, whose pre-filoxera vineyards reveal the contours of time, we had the good fortune and privilege of attending the harvest (photo below) being well visible the barriers that protect the vineyards of the winds and the sea breeze, and the small apple trees of Reinette Apple, traditional companions of the Colares vineyards. The proximity to the sea has enormous influence on the wine: freshness, minerality, salty touch with some iodine are part of this differentiation so characteristic of the region. A heritage so rich and single, with a strong traditional component bound to it.
Colares’ Vineyards © Blend All About Wine, Lda.
While the Malvasia Fina reigns in the white wines from Colares, it dominates the wines with lots of salinity, great freshness in a profile almost always tense when new, with a very positive development that involves us with aromas of tisane, crayons and candy, wines that are the perfect companion to accompany fish and seafood dishes. In the same way, in the reds shines the Ramisco grape. Its wines are distinguished by an open tone, little concentrated and the best specimens with longevity ensured.
A wine of great elegance, great harmony with an iodized touch that appears with age, while new shows very good freshness, very clean and live fruit in a structure based on tannins which ensure good evolution.
It’s quite interesting to be able compare directly from the barrel the Ramisco 2011 (more combative with huge dryness, lots of wild berries) and the 2008 (a delight of wine that shows a great evolution in the glass, very tasty and fresh fruit with good structure and tannins slightly domesticated) and the already bottled 2006 (more ready, but also more polished and delicate than the previous).
Arenae Malvasia Fina branco/white 2011
A white that is still very new, tense, marked by minerality, a salty touch in the background, very citrine, some crayons with the tisane arising in the background. Very good acidity in the mouth, good definition, in a wine with mineral hints and almost salty in the end. Long and beautiful finish. Perfect to accompany Bulhão Pato clams.
Arenae Ramisco Red 2006 © Blend All About Wine, Lda.
Arenae Ramisco tinto/red 2006
Very clean in the aroma of red fruit (strawberry, raspberry, blueberry), fresh herbal touch gives a slight austerity to the set, good complexity and depth. Spices, very good acidity to guide us during the tasting, palate full of flavor with dryness at the bottom. Fantastic wine to pair with some juicy grilled meats.
Contacts
Adega Regional de Colares
Av. Coronel Linhares de Lima, n.º 32 Colares
2705-351 Sintra,
Tel: +351219291210
Fax: +3519288083
Email: geral@arcolares.com
Site: www.arcolares.com
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