Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

I often hear old wine get compliments. Praises that I can understand because I like the wine that way. However, the reason that makes me write this text is the pedantic manner with which many oenophiles assumingly divide the world within two grape varieties. But I do recognize that many enthusiasts enjoy new and old nectars.

The truth is old wines can show what the young cannot… But they are to be drank young. It’s no injustice, just life. One day I was told: «wines are like people, some evolve some stay stupid».

An anecdotal aphorism that has some kind of right. If we take a look at the people of the performing arts – just because it’s easier to quote – we can see how Lauren Bacall or Sean Connery got better with age.

The breathtaking beauty of this actress has evolved into a charm and aura of a Queen. Now, Sean Connery is quite more obvious, I thought he was somewhat hammy, neither beautiful nor ugly, nowadays he’s a lord, both figuratively and literally.

What can we tell of James Dean or Mia Zapata? We’ll never know, though there are some computer programs that make previews. I don’t mean to be praising the old, I’m just enumerating situations.

There is another situation, which is vinous murder. People open bottles of wine that could get much with years. If the oenophile manages to keep some it’s ok. But…. but what if tomorrow he’s not alive? Or the child syndrome at Christmas. Or the speed of days and the somewhat premature ejaculation.

When talking to non-militant enthusiasts I notice that the most, the vast majority, states they do not like drink young wine. Why? The easiness is perhaps the main reason.

Another reason might be the still uneducated tasting. But who gives me the right to say that anyone doesn’t have their taste educated? Tastes are tastes, they can be discussed but have to be respected. I know people with many oenophile years that unconditionally prefer young wine.

George Bernard Shaw said: «Youth is the most beautiful thing in this world – and what a pity that it has to be wasted on children!»

For what I previously wrote you can tell I won’t go as far as the delicious arrogance of this great writer. I like both young and old wine… but…

There is always a but! The wine that is not young, just a child – building on the what is called the Summer of São Martinho, in November. There are many popular proverbs that praise wines in their childhood:

– In São Martinho we go to the winery and taste the wine.

– Bread with eyes, cheese without eyes and wine jumping to the eyes. (eyes = holes, it’s a portuguese rhyme)

– On São Martinho day, fire, chestnuts and wine.

These certainties can be explained by the ancient dificulty, of the old days, in storing wine for many months. While young it was “great” and in March or April, who knows! That kind of reality might have been transmitted by the Portuguese DNA… I don’t know!

Besides enjoying youth and old more than an assurance to what’s right or wrong, I prefer another popular aphorism:

– You don’t go to the beach in smoking.

No one can take me «Der Blaue Engel», directed by Josef von Sternberg, in 1930, with Marlene Dietrich. Nor the laughters I had with «Wag the Dog» of 1997, of Barry Levinson with Robert De Niro and Dustin Hoffman.