Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

Portugal is lucky to have two excellent wine regions! The world-class Madeira and Douro/Port. This is remarkable in a country of an area of 57,000 square miles. Douro is wonderful because you can make “everything” there.

Crossing a river is not an easy thing to do.

Borders are imaginary lines, fabricated lines. Not absolutely, because mountains and rivers insist on “geometric imperfection” – especially in the “old worlds”. Not accidentally, many cities, regions, and countries are named after rivers or have derived or related names.

In classic Greek mythology, the dead were sent to Hades (Hell) down river Aquaronte. Rivers (water) are considered sacred in many ancestral cultures. That is what it’s about.

Quinta das Bandeiras, by Pocinho village, in Douro Superior, is on the right-hand-side margin of the second largest river to flow through Portugal. On the other side is Quinta do Vale Meão. By tasting the wines, it becomes evident how a stream of water (not very wide) can act as a border – fact.

Of course, there is different exposure to the sun, and so on and so forth, making soil composition crucial. The thing about oenology: those making the wines insist (and fortunately so) on taking advantage of the differentiating factors. There’s Quinta de La Rosa, Real Companhia Velha, and Passagem wines are… Passagem. Please take this as a big compliment.

Oenologist Jorge Moreira shares Quinta das Bandeiras with Sophia Bergqvist in equal parts; the latter is managing Quinta de La Rosa, next to Pinhão. They are restless people, who are never happy with what they have and do not want to repeat themselves.

To me, the “man” factor is part of terroir. That said, I would say that the bet has been won. I must add that there is another border (obvious to me) between “quality” and “taste”. As a wine columnist, I must remain impartial – which is not to be mistaken for a lack of opinion. As an oenophile, these wines do not fulfil me. But there’s no particular reason, I only “like” them.

To each their own nose and mouth, and I don’t refuse suggestions. Those who appreciate wine and those who like Douro “have to” try Passagem wines. Let’s have them, then:

Passagem Vinho Branco Reserva 2014 was made with “a lot of grapes”, especially Viosinho, Gouveio, Rabigato, and Códega do Larinho, 1300 feet high. With good acidity, it’s food friendly.

Passagem Vinho Branco Reserva 2014 – Photo Provided by Passagem Wines | All Rights Reserved

Passagem Vinho Tinto Reserva 2013 – Photo Provided by Passagem Wines | All Rights Reserved

Passagem Porto Vintage 2011 – Photo Provided by Passagem Wines | All Rights Reserved

Passagem Vinho Tinto Reserva 2013 shares its white brother’s freshness, having spent 18 months in French oak casks. The grape varieties are Touriga Nacional (70%); Touriga Franca (25%), and Sousão (5%). Referring to “my own taste”: I am no oenologist, but I occasionally dabble in alchemy: it has too much Touriga Nacional, it’s missing some Touriga Franca, and I don’t like the Sousão variety.

More enjoyable (for my taste) is Passagem Porto Vintage 2011, made from two Tourigas; the percentage was not revealed. While objective: a vintage with character that isn’t just another one out of the bottle, as José Mourinho once put it. The fantastic year of 2011 was well surfed.

I would like to add “it’s worth it”: it’s outside the Douro spectral band, but still has Douro in it. It’s different, but it’s Douro.

Contacts
Passagem Wines
Tel: (+351) 254 732 254
E-mail: mail@passagemwines.com
Website: passagemwines.com