Text João Pedro de Carvalho

During a recent visit to the Douro Superior I had the opportunity to taste some samples of what is one of the best whites made in Portugal, the Conceito from the winemaker Rita Marques Ferreira. In total four of the six crops that have already been launched in the market were tried, I would remind you that the first release of this white was 2006, but in the tasting I only had 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 joined at the last minute by the 2012.

This fantastic white wine is born in the land of Cedovim (Douro Superior) in the Quinta do Cabido where the 10 hectares of vineyards reside, in exclusivity for white varieties on a plateau located at 500 meters of altitude. The transition of soils is made from schist to granite, in part responsible for the exceptional quality of these wines. The other part is the young winemaker Rita Ferreira, influenced by the time she was in Bordeaux where she was a student and an intern of the “guru” of white Bordeaux (Denis Dubourdieu).

In the very own vision that this young winemaker has for the region and the wines she creates, a white wine is born with a very peculiar concept, a different profile, fresher, without sharp edges and where the detail and the balance are the words of order. The white blend is dominated by the local varieties, Rabigato, Códega, Códega do Larinho and Gouveio from very old vineyards. The stage in wood has to be adjusted and the new barrels gave rise to used barrels (French and Caucasus). The good news, or confirmation of what few thought at the beginning, is that the evolution of the wines in question has been fabulous. Moreover, the Conceito has been refined over the course of its “short” six harvests of history, always showing predicates more than enough to win in its own right a place among the great white wines of Portugal.

Conceito white 2008 (DOC Douro)
Complex and elegant, broad with the feeling of toasted bread showing a very well integrated wood with a set full of harmony that combines freshness with flowers and quality fruit (citrus, pear) wrapped in light syrup. Nothing nipped by time, mouth full of flavor, freshness and finesse, a rich body full of detail in a fresh background accompanied by hints of minerals in a long and persistent finish.

Conceito white 2009 (DOC Douro)
Broader and more textured than the 2008, much freshness in a set with a sound fruit (citrus, peach), ripe and clean, nothing touched by time with great purity of assembly. A little less expressive, but always with the characteristic harmony and class, shows notes of a fully integrated smoked wood, that rounds and packs it in the palate, without losing the fresh taste and mineral background.

Conceito white 2010 (DOC Douro)
From this harvest on, wood has lost its presence, giving even more place to fruit (grapefruit, lime and peach) that thus presents itself with greater freshness and definition. The whole remains equally on a great level, complex and profound, more floral and mineral, although much richer in delicacy. Minerality felt in a fresh set, with a force that shows greater feeling of purity throughout the tasting.

Conceito white 2011 (DOC Douro)
Very fine acidity and set, much more outlined in aromas and flavors. Complex with the good exuberance of fruit (citrus, pear). Wood in great harmony, adjusted with a mouth full of flavor and freshness, great class in a tasting full of pleasure and vivacity.

Conceito white 2012 (DOC Douro)
We are dominated by citrus fruit and by minerality, little or no signal of wood, only one note of toasted bread that marks the entire line. After that, we are almost held hostage to a slightly mineral austerity that dominates briefly both the nose and the palate, in a set that is still tense, full of nerves, that you can even find it a bit hard on the palate and closed on the nose.

Contacts
Conceito – Vinhos
Tel: (+351) 939 000 350
Fax: (+351) 279 778 059
Email: conceito@conceito.com.pt
Site: www.conceito.com.pt