Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne
This time, the Prats & Symington partnership, between the Symington family and French oenologist Bruno Prats, have selected chef José Avillez’s restaurant Belcanto in Lisbon to present their new wines: Prazo de Roriz Douro Doc 2012, Post Scriptum Douro Doc 2013 and the cherry on the cake, Chryseia Douro Doc 2013.
Representing the Symington family, Rupert Symington came along with Bruno Prats, who once owned Château Cos d’ Estournel, in Bordeaux, before he fell in love with Douro. Let us be reminded that the 2011 Chryseia was considered the third best wine of the world by North-American magazine Wine Spectator in 2014! It thus sold out quickly, and was immediately followed by the 2012 vintage. The market has been out of Chryseia ever since. Therefore, everybody present shared curiosity and anxiety to taste the new vintage, Chryseia 2013.
We were welcomed with quality and friendliness, which this venue has always delivered. We started, as is traditional of the Symington family, with the Paul Roger champagne, in this case the Brut Rosé Vintage 2006, which tasted superb and at the right temperature even though it was a hot day. While in a chatting mood, we enjoyed the several delicious appetisers being served round the room to accompany the champagne, or vice-versa, poured with the finesse one expects from a two-Michelin-star restaurant: round lupin seeds with kaffir-lime and piripiri (chilli pepper), XL-LX olives and cherry gazpacho. The tone was set.
Already at the table, we were poured a Prazo de Roriz Douro Doc 2012, with the typical deep-ruby appearance. The nose presented a lot of very ripe fruit, notes of blackberry and plum and a light floral aroma. Very voluminous on the mouth, full, intense, but elegant; plump dark fruit, acidity and freshness in perfect balance, and a good finish; a wine that can still evolve in the bottle for a few years. It accompanied the Ferrero Rocher, roast chicken, and the chef’s own creation, called A horta da galinha dos ovos de ouro [The vegetable garden of the goose that laid the golden eggs], eggs, crunchy bread, and mushrooms… Art by chef Avillez’s kitchen right there on our tables.
We were still leaning back in our chairs, enjoying those amazing flavours, when we were served the Post Scriptum Douro Doc 2013. Of a deep, dark garnet, it revealed fresh notes of figs, plums, blackberries, and some spices. On the mouth, it proves very young, fresh, with excellent acidity, intense tannins, but it’s already very well matched to the fruit, leaving a lasting and delicious finish. This paid very good company to the charcoal-roasted red mullet with liver sauce and Bulhão Pato-style clam purée, a very elegant and refreshing, delicious dish.
The most awaited moment arrived; Chryseia Douro Doc 2013 was swishing around in glasses, in a dark, intense, opaque garnet. Very exotic on the nose, of characteristic aromas of dark fruits, yet some raspberries, light spicy notes. Despite the intense tannins, this wine is extremely elegant, round, well-structured and has a never-ending finish. It will last a very long time… That is, if it makes it thus far! It stood up very well to a superb ox-tail with chickpeas, foie gras, veal tendons, onion cream, and cheese from the Azores Island. It was hard to describe, given the complex flavours in this very high-level dish, which made a perfect match for the Chryseia. Dessert was yet to come, and the Quinta de Roriz Porto Vintage 2000 was served; a Douro classic, still very dark in the glass, with intense dark-fruit aromas and already revealing light notes of nuts and some chocolate.
Very voluminous on the mouth, and full of structure, a lot of fruits, notes of spices, smoke, wild plants, a wine that will not stop evolving, with a very lasting finish. It accompanied a disconcerting dessert: chocolate, banana and peanut, for a perfect end to the meal…
With the top-up espresso and the petit fours, the Symington family tawny tradition: Graham’s 30 Year Old Tawny Port, full of nuts, crispy, extraordinarily elegant, a great Port wine.
Cheers!
Contacts
Quinta de Roriz
São João da Pesqueira
5130-113 ERVEDOSA DO DOURO
Portugal
Tel: +351-22-3776300
Fax: +351-22-3776301
E-mail: info@chryseia.com
Website: www.chryseia.com
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