Blend All About Wine Arquivo de Alentejo - Page 2 of 2

Hotel M’ar de Ar Aqueduto – Degust’Ar Restaurant

July 14, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Chef António Nobre was born in 1969 in Beja, where he also studied. His mother was an excellent cook and, with her, he discovered the aromas and flavours of Alentejo cuisine. However, it was not before he was in the navy that he learnt he enjoyed cooking, so he took a course in cuisine and worked in the mess for the navy officers in the Cascais line. When he returned to Beja, he began working in a restaurant called “Muralha”, where he stayed for four years. Then he applied to work at the inn, got accepted, and stayed for also four years. After that, he worked at hotel “Melius” for another four years. Ever since the director at “Cartuxa” hotel heard about him fifteen years ago, he has been in that group, which transformed the hotel in the mean time, and opened the two M’ar de Ar hotels: Aqueduto and Muralhas, with António as the head of catering.

Chef António Nobre

Although he often travels throughout the country and also abroad – because he believes it to be important to stay up-to-date with current affairs in other countries, and what the latest trends are – he feels most at home in Alentejo. He promotes regional cuisine, because he thinks we should keep the flame of tradition alive. His motto is “Innovate tradition, all the while respecting the scents and flavours of the Portuguese cuisine, because they are part of our culture.” He does enjoy presenting his traditional Alentejo cuisine with sophistication and in different clothing, sometimes looking better and thus more appetising.

That said, our expectations were high when we recently visited “Degust’ar” restaurant, in hotel Mar de Ar Aqueduto, for a peaceful dinner in the most comfortable environment.

The restaurant is very well decorated; its refined simplicity put us at ease. In the entrance, we were welcomed by a counter, where a “sushi man” prepares a plethora of pieces of that cuisine, which has definitely taken over the country. Then the room, of a decent size, with charming corners, very well-set tables, and a good choice of ornaments. The service is remarkable, very competent and friendly. Also friendly was chef António Nobre when he came to the table to ask whether we were in a rush or not. Of course we were not, and so he gave the kitchen the green light for a very comprehensive meal he was already in the process of preparing. We started with appetisers including olives marinated with oregano, orange, lemon, olive oil, farinheira butter and bread.

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We carried on dipping and grabbing until the little delicacies arrived: an interesting “botifarra” from Azaruja (a sort of longer breakfast sausage) with homemade tomato jam; delicious figs with Alentejo pork ham, chicory and honey vinaigrette from Serra de Portel; a few crunchy Alentejo risolle filled with pork scratchings and a salad of green asparagus, cherries and Amareleja raisins.

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Figs with Alentejo pork ham © Blend All About Wine, Lda

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Crunchy Alentejo risolle © Blend All About Wine, Lda

We moved on to the soups – absolutely compulsory in Alentejo: chickpea soup with bóia (“ring float”), which consists in the fat from the pig’s belly – very tasty, and an excellent purslane soup with cottage cheese and poached quail egg.

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Purslane soup © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Our stomachs were already quite satisfied, but the main course was still to come. Although respecting the peace and quiet, it did not take long, to keep the rhythm of the meal going.

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Conger eel soup © Blend All About Wine, Lda

As a fish course, we had Alentejo-style conger eel soup with mint from the riverbank; it was filled with aromas, very tasty.

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While we waited for the meat course, the pennyroyal sorbet did a proper job of cleansing our palate.

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Mertolenga beef neck © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Then came the Mertolenga beef neck stewed slowly with haricot pods and “sawyer”-style migas (“fried breadcrumbs”), which really brought the Alentejo plane flavours to the plate. Excellent!

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Trilogy of “conventual” sweets © Blend All About Wine, Lda

We were able to make some room for a trilogy of “conventual” sweets (originally made in convents) with lemon sorbet, which put the cherry on the cake on this trip down Alentejo flavours. With regard to wines, the challenge was to bring wines from other regions with us to see how well they would do with Alentejo food.

The white Alvarinho 2014 from Quinta de Curvos – very refreshing, with excellent acidity and balanced fruit – accompanied the appetisers very well; the most interesting was Gravato da Beira Interior palhete wine 2005 – very elegant, intense, refined – paid excellent company to the soups and the fish. Neck and neck.

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The Wines © Blend All About Wine, Lda

Lastly, an “old” Garrafeira Tinto 1988 from Palmela, by J. P. Vinhos. Although its strength was drained, it was a good match for the Mertolenga meat, and slowly but appetisingly, it evolved in the glass. It tasted so good.

Chef António Nobre returned to the table to find out how it had gone, and received a deserving genuine applause.

He must have caught a whiff of “M’ar de Ar”…

Contacts
M’AR De AR AQUEDUTO
Rua Cândido dos Reis, 72
7000-782 Évora
Tel: (+351) 266 740 700
Fax: (+351) 266 740 735
E-mail: geral@mardearhotels.com
Website: www.mardearhotels.com

Wines by Monte da Raposinha

July 3, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

Once upon a time, a fox – an omnivorous animal – walked under a vineyard from which beautiful bunches of grapes hung. Vulpes vulpes was hungry; she tried hard to grab some grapes, but couldn’t reach. Defeated, yet proud, she said:

“They’re green!”

That is Esopo’s story. However, there are more foxes, and more grapes. In Montargil, the fox gets vines all for itself. The property is called Herdade da Raposinha. That is, however, a recent place name and a tribute to the real owner, Rosário Sousa Ataíde.

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Monte da Raposinha in montedaraposinha.com

This territory is 370 acres big and has been in Rosário Ataíde’s family since the 18th Century, although only recently have they begun farming it. As a matter of fact, according to Nuno Ataíde, a judge in the Court of Appeal in Porto, there are only two producers in Montargil; he made his father-in-law’s oenophile dream a reality.

Pedro Sousa, a physician in Coimbra, never got to taste Raposinha wines. Up until 2004, Monte da Raposinha was used for celebrations, although there was an orchard, an olive grove, an oak wood and a pinewood. Nuno Ataíde ordered for the plantation of five acres, then another twelve, and a further seventeen in 2014.

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Monte da Raposinha in montedaraposinha.com

The farmhouse is managed by João Nuno Ataíde, one of the couple’s three children. The head of oenology is Susana Esteban – a steady hand, of course. The 2007 harvest was the first to be released, in 2008.

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The vineyards in montedaraposinha.com

In the first five acres, they planted Touriga Nacional, Aragonês and Trincadeira in equal parts, João Nuno Ataíde specifies. The following varieties are currently in production: Touriga Nacional (3.70 acres), Syrah (2.5 acres), Aragonês (2.5 acres), Trincadeira (1.25 acres), Arinto (3 acres), Chardonnay (1.85 acres), Antão Vaz (1.5 acres) and Sauvignon Blanc (1 acre). The varieties planted last year were Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional and Syrah. About 40% of the wine is made with purchased grapes.

Nuno Ataíde says he “started with practically only chicken feed, and after crunching the numbers”. He says he still isn’t ready to crunch the numbers. The quantitative goal is to reach 100,000 – the cellar’s capacity. Today, it exports 60% of production, and all the wine is classified as being from the Alentejo region.

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The Winery in montedaraposinha.com

Alentejo is hot almost all over, but Montargil is in a water-abundant part, an advantage for producers who need to quench their plantation’s thirst. Until 2014, the harvests always started in August.

Regarding the wines:

In a nutshell, they have Susana Esteban‘s steady hand. Now and then, the question of whether a female oenologist’s wines are feminine… or if men can make feminine wines… The behaviour will certainly be different; I think the differences lie in gender, not in personality.

Does Susana Esteban make feminine wines? I don’t know. I know she makes them steady, enjoyable, elegant and differentiated. This oenologist doesn’t use a specific way to make wine. She makes her blends based on nature’s moulds. I don’t mean terroir – which could easily turn into Post-Graduate dissertations and long conversations on winter evenings – but nature.

Susana Esteban’s hat trick is not to have one. However, there is a signature. I reject the term “feminine”, but perhaps “elegant”. I insist on believing that an author’s work tends to reflect their personality. I hardly know the oenologist, but the feeling I get is that she is a woman who knows what she wants, with the characteristic peace-of-mind of someone with class.

Elegance can be found all along, from Monte da Raposinha (red 2012 – Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet, Syrah and Aragonês – and white 2013 – Arinto and Antão Vaz), to Athayde Reserva White 2013 (Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc), Athayde Grande Escolha Red 2011 (Syrah, Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet), to Furtiva Lágrima 2010 – name of an aria, “Una Furtiva Lagrima”, from the opera “The Elixir of Love” by Gaetano Donizetti – a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Syrah and Touriga Nacional.

Contacts
Estrada do Couço, S/N
7425 – 144 Montargil, Portalegre
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 919 860 902
E-mail: geral@montedaraposinha.com
Website: www.montedaraposinha.com

A Winning Project in The Alentejo Interior

June 2, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

This exemplary rural unit is located in the Alentejo interior, south of Beja, and it belongs to a German group.

Herdade dos Grous Typical Alentejo Hotel

In Albernoa, the Philosophy consists in combining a typical Alentejo hotel with a rural environment, where ecological care is a priority.

Firstly, the very beautiful lake gathers the perfect conditions for Ornithology. This unit produces many different goods, and wine is one of the best, its wines constantly earning awards across the world. They are produced from very good quality grapes covering about 170 acres of vineyards, white and red.

Herdade dos Grous 170 Acres of Vineyards

Much more is produced here, such as herbs, vegetables and fruit, which grow all year in a bio regime, and are mostly consumed in both hotels: Alentejo and Algarve.

Cattle are another great produce, comprising cows, goats and pigs, whose meats are widely consumed in the group’s restaurants.

The jumping horses are another of the land’s ventures, some of them being thorough-breed, and claiming excellent results internationally. Furthermore, the company produces a very high quality olive oil, jam, honey and several biscuits.

The cellar operates in the main building. It was built from scratch and includes all the modern technical facilities for producing quality wine. This has been achieved continuously, also thanks to the leader of the entire team (not only dedicated to wine), Luís Duarte, one of the most awarded Portuguese oenologists. He has vast experience producing wines throughout Alentejo, and in the hotel he is also the Manager. Rigour seems to be the watchword, with every member’s tasks and responsibilities well outlined. Luís Duarte has succeeded in putting a clearly winner team together. The results speak for themselves.

All Herdade dos Grous wines belong to this brand, maintaining a sober image, which has grown on customers. Only its label’s colours change and, of course, the year of the harvests. On this visit, we tasted six superb wines with a delicious meal.

The 2014 White proved very refreshing and young, with beautiful acidity, some fruit in the nose, and the wine quickly fading out of the glasses.

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The 2013 White Reserva revealed a lot of elegance, soft woody notes, some freshness, very soft – quite velvety. To be drunk slightly less cooled – a beautiful wine.

The first red, Herdade dos Grous 2013, was solid, with a lot of ripe fruit, a lot of good acidity in the mouth, clean, round, a modern wine.

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Then followed Moon harvested, also from 2013, with good aromas of very ripe fruit, complex but very soft spicy and woody scents, beautiful volume in the mouth, consistent and full of elegance, with a very lasting finish.

23 Barricas, of 2013, is made with Touriga Nacional and Syrah; a very structured wine, with good character and a complex but fascinating and slightly floral nose. In the mouth, it has volume, excellent acidity, a lot of dark fruit; it is lightly austere, deep, and with a never-ending finish.

By the end of the meal, 2012 Colheita Tardia slipped into our glasses. Here, they prepare it with the Petit Manseng variety. Its grapes were injected with “Botritis Cinerea”, to create the necessary features for a very special wine. Where sweetness is strong, it is compensated with amazing acidity and somewhere in-between are complex spicy aromas, notes of honey, jam and ginger. However, everything is very balanced, and served cool. Delicious!

Herdade dos Grous Cured Chease Paiola Paio From The Neck

The meal, in the vineyard’s restaurant, started with bread from the region, olives, two different pates, normal butter and butter with herbs, tuna with black-eyed beans, cod with chick-peas, cured chease, paiola, paio (spicy pork sausage) from the neck and, of course, olive oil from the land in which to dip bread.

After some scrambled eggs with wild asparagus came the meats from the land: lamb, black Iberian pork and Alentejo beef. They had been grilled only in salt, and served with a side of (literally) punched potatoes and sautéed vegetables, all local produce.

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The mix of Alentejo sweets disarmed us all!

Outside, the peaceful Alentejo plane still reigned…

Contacts
Herdade dos Grous
Albernôa 7800-601
Beja, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 284 960 000
Fax: (+351) 284 960 072
E-mail: herdadedosgrous@herdadedosgrous.pt
Website: www.herdadedosgrous.com

A couple from the North fell in love with Alentejo’s Arrepiado Velho

May 12, 2015 1 comment in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

One day, a couple from the North of Portugal decided to buy this piece of land near Sousel.

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All they had to do then was rebuild some buildings, especially the main house, making it comfortable enough to live in. Once the vineyards were planted, producing wine was only a baby step away, thanks to the precious help of oenologist and friend António Maçanita and an expert in wine growing, David Booth, who already left us.

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Although they want to build a new cellar, the current one has all the necessary conditions and modern technology. This is where grapes and wines are prepared, and where wine waits to be bottled.

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In the meantime, the couple’s son, António, and his wife Marta got busy selling the wines. Marta, who works in Design, designed the very unusual labels – really quite unique, and which make Arrepiado Velho bottles stand out in the crowd.

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They got so involved in the project, they decided to move to Alentejo and work full time on producing and selling these quality wines. Marta stayed linked to Design. Even though they have two small children, they get excellent quality of life, and have adjusted perfectly.

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The land has been developing; it now includes a lake, which stores all the water the vineyards need, but is also used for leisure, for instance the fun trips on the pedal boats. More than 75 acres of vineyards look very well kept and healthy, and the olive trees produce some quality olive oil. They want to plant more vineyards soon and add them to the existing varieties: Antão Vaz, Verdelho, Chardonnay, Viognier and Rieseling for white wine, and Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot for red.

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A number of rooms and a beautiful pool opens the doors to wine tourism in Arrepiado Velho, although they want to improve on it. Many local products are used to make breakfast and other meals served there. Other products come from the same region, offering a variety of Alentejo traditional items.

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On a walk around the land, we see vinyards all around, interrupted here and there by olive trees and holm oak.

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The traditional orange trees are present too, keeping visitors and playful dogs company.

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At dinner, by the crackling fire lit to prevent the evening chill, we relished a full table.

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Delicious regional bread came with olives, and tasted lovely dipped in olive oil.

Board of Different Sausages and Sliced Cheeses - Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

And a board of different sausages and sliced cheeses tempted everyone. Meanwhile, our glasses were filled with white Antão Vaz 2014, which surprised us with its freshness, aroma and some tropical fruits; although non-exuberant, it revealed a good body and very balanced acidity.

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Right after that, Arrepiado white 2014, refreshing in the nose, with some pineapple, something mineral, good acidity and quite balanced.

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Then, followed a very flavourful and rich stuffed tomato, which led to a surprising white Rieseling of very fresh citrusy notes, pineapple, grapefruit, and mango. In the mouth, it is very elegant and persistent, staying fresh – a very interesting wine.

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Then, it was time for Arrepiado Velho Rosé, made from Touriga Nacional and Syrah, slightly floral in the nose, very fresh, an intense and full mouth, notes of very elegant red berries, which paid excellent company to the delicious sautéed mushrooms, in turn meaty and well seasoned. The first red was Brett Edition 2011, with developed aromas, tobacco, leather and some spices, good volume in the mouth, round, elegant, persistent – a different wine.

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It accompanied a lamb roast and runny rice with greens and chouriço – excellent. We finished with a superb Red Arrepiado Velho Collection 2011 – full of class and dark fruits, notes of tobacco, slightly balsamic in the nose, a voluminous mouth, notes of smoke, chocolate, ripe dark fruits and a lasting finish.
And there was no room left for dessert.

Surrounded by peace and quiet, I had a long and deep sleep…

Contacts
Herdade do Arrepiado Velho
Tel: (+351) 256 392 675
Fax: (+351) 256 392 676
E-mail: amantunes@arrepiadovelho.com | mneto@arrepiadovelho.com
Website: www.arrepiadovelho.com

Vinha d’Ervideira Antão Vaz Vindima Tardia 2013

May 1, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

Hate is an ugly thing. Besides making your nose wrinkle, putting your toenails in a twist and making your liver go bad, hate does no good. For instance, cases of fanatical and terrorist intolerance – an easy and current example, lately very popular in the news.

Somebody said ‘there is no use to a man without enemies’. I disagree and even reverse this: there is no use to a man without friends. However, nobody is all bad or all good. I will write about people and stories of what their tastes get them into. A debate, when civilised, can be delightful, especially when it is more than just a chat, confrontational rhetoric and absence of thought. Some cases are inexplicable – also interesting to talk about.

Something keeps badgering me! A quixotic war against Antão Vaz grape species. To be honest, if so many farmers grow it, it must have many fans. Maybe I am the one who’s “wrong”. A friend of mine goes into an epileptic seizure – metaphorically – if he even smells cabernet sauvignon. For me, it’s that other grape named after a person.

I can be extravagant at times, which is why I sometimes have romantic tiffs. In another life, they would put me in sabre duels with antão vaz. Pretending is fun, as do teenage girls with nervous smiles when they lock eyes with the cutest boy in school… me at the time!

As a knight defending his damsel in distress – i.e. the pleasures of scent and taste – I am imperative:

– I hate antão vaz grapes! Its vines should be pulled down and the vineyards cleaned out. And anyone caught with a stem of the “thing” should suffer physical punishment in re-education camps.

I don’t hate! I know – since last year – some words are very dangerous: never, always, everything, nothing, all, none…

During a recent visit to Adega da Ervideira, near Monsaraz, a medieval village, I had to swallow a series of insults I had previously used for antão vaz. Literally swallowed.

This species may well be the most appreciated in the whole of Alentejo. Almost always (for me) heavy, excessive, sickening, tiring and rustic. Faults, which most wine lovers admit to exist in some wines. However, natives of Alentejo “discovered” arinto and the end result is higher than a simple arithmetic sum.

What I do wish to mention is one antão vaz single-species in God’s cellar… A devil of a wine. This is my second favourite Antão Vaz. The other one is also a single-species (Solista 2010, Mayor cellar, by oenologist Paulo Laureano).

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Vinha d’Ervideira Antão Vaz Vindima Tardia 2013 in wonderfulland.com/ervideira/

Vinha d’Ervideira Antão Vaz Vindima Tardia (Late Harvest) 2013 has impressive freshness and character, it is sweet but not over-the-top; it is mighty. It fills your mouth, where it releases scents and goes far and deep for a long time.

I have only mentioned it because of my quarrel with antão vaz and because I was surprised to hear it is a late harvest, and free of botrytis. However, one collection has other choices, all within the usual quality and natural charm. Nélson Rolo is the oeonologist in charge of Ervideira wines.

By the way… Herdadinha is worth a visit. This piece of land accommodates Ervideira Cellar. Why not join in on wine tourism? The land goes as far as Monsaraz and has a view of the Alqueva lake… Gorgeous! Although I do miss the time when the sea wasn’t there… I sigh conformed.

Contacts
Adega Ervideira
Herdadinha – Vendinha
Reguengos de Monsaraz
PORTUGAL
el: (+351) 266 950 010
Fax: (+351) 266 950 011
E-mail: ervideira@ervideira.pt
Website: www.wonderfulland.com/ervideira

Vinha d'Ervideira Antão Vaz Vindima Tardia 2013

May 1, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

As a knight defending his damsel in distress – i.e. the pleasures of scent and taste – I am imperative:

– I hate antão vaz grapes! Its vines should be pulled down and the vineyards cleaned out. And anyone caught with a stem of the “thing” should suffer physical punishment in re-education camps.

I don’t hate! I know – since last year – some words are very dangerous: never, always, everything, nothing, all, none…

During a recent visit to Adega da Ervideira, near Monsaraz, a medieval village, I had to swallow a series of insults I had previously used for antão vaz. Literally swallowed.

Vinha d’Ervideira Antão Vaz Vindima Tardia 2013 in wonderfulland.com/ervideira/

Esporão, an Alentejo Classic

April 28, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

One of Alentejo’s greatest properties, with 4450 acres of land, 1100 of which have active vineyards and the other 200 acres have olive trees producing excellent olive oil.

If we add a very well designed countryside cellar, a restaurant making excellent food, a wine shop selling various items and a pool of water that helps mould the landscape and waters the entire complex, we will get one of the few wine tourism locations in Alentejo. One day is not enough to enjoy it properly.

Out of all of the above, the most attractive feature is the production of the wine– besides the breath-taking landscape of unusually endless vineyards, the quality and care they put into everything they do, and, of course, the wines of many levels, where quality is the standard and almost an obsession. This team is led by an oenologist who, although born far away in Australia, has become very Portuguese and was recently naturalised as a Portuguese citizen. David Baverstock can’t hide his passion for the work he does so well; besides, he is very well supported by the viticulture and oenology team in the hands of Luís Patrão. The results come in with every new harvest.

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In viticulture, the ampelographic area they keep is obviously of great importance, including 188 Portuguese species as well as many others from all over the world, where much of what belongs to Portugal is preserved, and its evolution and potential are analysed. Species with odd names, such as Tinta Pomar, Molinha Macia (soft and tender), Malvasia Cândida (Candid Malvasia), Corropio (Rush), Uva Salsa (Parsley Grape), Tinta do Bragão, Arinto do Interior, Larião, Amor-não-me-deixes (Don’t-leave-me-love), Carrasquenho and many others are proving their worth. But the most traditionally Portuguese species (Alicante Bouschet, Aragonês, Touriga Nacional, Verdelho, Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro, Gouveio) and some foreign (Syrah, Petit Verdot, Semillon) are where they get the base for most of their symbolic wines.

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Some of these grapes are then prepared in a modern cellar that was recently renovated, to include new technical features.

Then, they rest in that incredible gigantic cask cellar. On our recent visit, we tasted a few of those and confirmed their potential, once again.

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The Duas Castas white 2013, made from Gouveio and Antão Vaz, proved to be very clean, with light vegetable aromas, very citrusy and delicate. In the mouth, it is very refreshing, intense and persistent, has fruity notes and some mineral – a youthful wine.

Private Selection white, also 2013, is a completely different wine. Modern and seductive, fermented in wood, which is apparent straight away in the nose, somewhat exotic, very elegant, some white fruits, smoky notes and lightly toasted. In the mouth, it’s plump, full, of buttery notes, some very soft chocolate – a very harmonious wine.

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Still within the whites, we move on to Reserva 2013, a classic wine, also fermented in wood and very clean, with a little fruity intensity – somewhere between citrus and white fruits – and light smoky notes. In the mouth, it’s full, ample, including very ripe white fruit, balanced acidity and some freshness combined with persistent minerality.

Private Selection red 2011 reveals all the potential of an extraordinary year. Complex spicy aromas, some red fruits, very soft notes of chocolate and tobacco.: in the mouth, it’s austere, full, with notes of cocoa and coffee, intense, good acidity and a long, flavourful aftertaste.

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We move on to Quatro Castas red 2013, the nose is somewhat floral, perhaps red fruits and very fun notes of spices. In the mouth, it’s ample, with excellent acidity, some complexity, very elegant with a very interesting medium aftertaste.

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We finish with a classic, Red Reserva 2012. This wine has an exuberant nose and includes some wild fruits, a little smoke; it is spicy and elegant. The mouth is simultaneously elegant and austere, full-bodied, slightly toasted, with dark fruits, good acidity for balance and probably good longevity. A beautiful wine.

On our way out of the estate, we had to stop at Esporão Tower, a commission by D. Álvaro Mendes de Vasconcelos built between 1457 and 1490. It was recovered in 2003 and, today, houses a museum of archaeology, where valuable items collected in Esporão and in Perdigões are displayed.

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Beside the tower is the Esporão Arch and a Chapel of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, which also belong to the history of this property, whose origin is lost in time…

Contacts
Herdade do Esporão
Apartado 31
7200-999
Reguengos de Monsaraz
Tel: (+351) 266 509280
Fax: (+351) 266 519753
E-mail:reservations@esporao.com
Website: esporao.com

Wine Tradition, History and Production as an Art

April 24, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Alentejo encompasses a significant number of magic places; whether for beautiful scenery, never-ending lands, earth-grown products or historical families and buildings. One specific location in the Estremoz region includes all of the above: Quinta Dona Maria, dating from the 18th Century, which belonged to king D. João V at a point.

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The current owner, Júlio Bastos, has proven his skills in maintaining the beauty and quality of the facilities, so rich in history, and the magnificent surrounding gardens. His other talent is investing in producing high-quality wines, these days renowned worldwide as deluxe products.

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It is made from very good grapes of different species, of which Alicante Bouschet stands out amongst the reds. The grapes are prepared in an old cellar – very well restored with beautiful presses made of marble from that region – where they still crush the grapes under their feet. Powerful wines age there – with strong character yet very elegant, with a particular profile and excellent potential to accompany food.

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When wine is grown with rigour, vines are well guided and watered by nature, your grapes turn out very sound. Later, they are timely harvested and carefully selected to make wines with the Dona Maria signature.

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On our recent visit, we were greeted by oenologist Sandra Gonçalves and the owner, Júlio Bastos. They brought us on a tour of the austere yet beautiful cellar, revealing what grape preparation process lies behind such good wines.

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The cellar’s wood ceilings are fantastic, along with supporting columns with ceramic vaults surrounded by thick stone walls, which also house the old cement reservoirs, still in use after restoration.

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In another room, the wines rest in countless French and American oak casks, to be bottled in due time, and then continue ageing for some more months or years. After enlightening explanations about the whole production process, Júlio Bastos invited us into the tasting room where Sandra Gonçalves prepared a tasting guided by the two. Júlio Bastos entertained his usual strict tone, even in regard to his own wines. He was, however, immensely educational regarding Alentejo wines in general, which he knows very well. Before us, eight wines were presented, much to our delight:

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Dona Maria white 2014 maintains the tropical aroma profile – quite citrusy, refreshing, of balanced acidity and great volume in the mouth. The Amantis white 2013 let the Viognier species shine. It had very soft tropical notes and some white fruits, with a hint of smoke, balanced acidity keeping it very elegant.

Viognier 2013 still felt very young, combining aromas of white fruits and a light floral scent, but very elegant, with volume in the mouth, full, intense acidity but balanced, with an excellent aftertaste. Next, an amazing Rosé 2013, very balanced, with soft tropical aromas alongside a complex mouth, very refreshing, with notes of tropical fruits, strawberries, jam and acidity that connects all of the above, and a great aftertaste.

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Moving onto the reds, Dona Maria Red 2012, a brand with aromas of ripe red fruits, light smoky notes and blackberries. It’s lively in the mouth, with excellent acidity, intense red fruits and good volume, a well-balanced wine. The red Touriga Nacional 2011 reveals the quality in that year’s harvest. The elegant aromas of violet and bergamot with light smoky notes and some spices contrast with the full mouth – velvety, with notes of red fruits and some chocolate, and excellent acidity.

Next was Amantis Red Reserva 2009, a muscular wine, complex, with aromas of ripe dark fruits and refreshing. In the mouth, it’s volumous, maintaining complexity, notes of mint, red fruits and some spices, persistent acidity and a beautiful aftertaste.

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For the grand finale, Júlio Bastos opened a bottle of classic from this farm, Quinta do Carmo Garrafeira 1986, previously decanted. It showed violet hues and some brown smatterings, which determined its age; very elegant, a smooth velvety nose and some red fruits. In the mouth, it is delicate, smooth, of deliciously soft tannins, full of complexity, very balanced acidity, persistent, slightly smoked, with a very, very long aftertaste. It gets better if opened a few hours beforehand and proves that Alentejo reds also age well.

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Once outside, in the enormous yard, we were “crushed” by the beauty of the main house, which continues on the inside. Its many rooms lead us almost three centuries back. In a corner of a room, through a secret passage, we can almost see D. João 5th walking in for a stealthy visit to D. Maria, the courtier to whom he had gifted Quinta do Carmo…

Contacts
Quinta do Carmo 7100-055 Estremoz
Telefone: (+351) 268 339 150
Fax: (+351) 268 339 155
Email: donamaria@donamaria.pt
Website: donamaria.pt

Let the adventure begin!

April 21, 2014 no comments in Uncategorized by Ilkka Sirén

Text Ilkka Sirén

I’m going to be honest with you. I haven’t been the biggest fan of Alentejo as a wine region. I know that might upset certain people but it’s the truth. I don’t have anything against Alentejo, it’s just that I’ve always gravitated more towards Northern Portugal like Bairrada, Dao, Douro and Vinho Verde.

Reason for this is simply that when I travel to Portugal I usually fly to Porto where you can access these wonderful wine regions relatively fast. Alentejo is a bit further away and I usually just don’t have time to venture that far south.

So it took me a while to visit the region, but last year I finally did. And all I can say is, WOW! Alentejo is beyond beautiful. I mean how could you not like the incredible landscape, olive oil, cork trees and warm weather. Not to mention it is the home to one of the most delicious living things on the planet, the black Iberian pig. So, if you like plenty of sunshine and good food, then you should definitely visit Alentejo.

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The wines are diverse both in style and in quality. You can find some amazing vinho down in Alentejo but you will probably encounter quite a few disappointments too. But to fully appreciate and understand these wines one must visit the region and I personally can’t wait to get back there to discover more what this region has to offer.

For two years winemaker Susana Esteban searched vineyards in Alentejo before finding two plots with each its own personality, and from those two vineyards she started what appears to be a very promising project. Freshness is not the first word that comes to my mind when I think about Alentejano wine, but somehow Susana has managed to make a couple of wines that are both equipped with unusual freshness which makes the vibrant fruit pop out like a Playboy bunny from a big cake. I wouldn’t say these are the two most exciting wines in the world but they are a very welcomed breath of fresh air and this will only add to the already versatile wine pool of Alentejo.

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Aventura 2012/Susana Esteban Vinho Regional Alentejano

If you would combine a handful of cute flowers stolen from your best friend’s wedding bouquet, added a dash of black pepper and liqourice, rubbed them together in your hands it would smell exactly like this wine. Well, probably not exactly but close enough. This wine reminds me of some spicy Zweigelt from Austria that I’ve tasted. Straight forward, youthful, unoaked with a lingonberry-like finish (no, I did not made that up). With “just” 13,5% which is quite moderate for Alentejo, and some lively acidity this wine offers some good old drinkability. A delightful tipple for those of us who like to embark on vinous adventures.

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Procura 2011 Vinho Regional Alentejano

This particular wine was the first of this project. It’s a blend of Alicante Bouschet from a vineyard near Évora and mixed varieties of who-knows-what from an older and much cooler vineyard in Portalegre. The wine starts as quite intense yet delicate. Might even be a bit too intense if it wasn’t for the lively acidity to keep it in check. The name Procura means ‘search’ in English and no matter how much I searched I couldn’t detect the relatively high alcohol. With 14,5% this wine is balanced and has nice vibrant fruit.

(I’m not a big decanter geek but if you’re into that sort of stuff you might want to try decanting this to see if it mellows a bit.)

Contacts:
Susana Esteban
Headquarters- Av. António Augusto Aguiar, Nº 100, 4º Esq. / 1050-019 Lisboa
Winery – Quinta Seca da Boavista / 7490-311 Mora
E-mail: susana@susanaesteban.com
Site: www.susanaesteban.com

Posts Tagged : Alentejo

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A Winning Project in The Alentejo Interior

A couple from the North fell in love with Alentejo’s Arrepiado Velho

Vinha d’Ervideira Antão Vaz Vindima Tardia 2013

Vinha d'Ervideira Antão Vaz Vindima Tardia 2013

Esporão, an Alentejo Classic

Wine Tradition, History and Production as an Art

Let the adventure begin!