Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Telling about the Casa Cadaval wines needs some prior information. I repeat: the history and the stories are an added value. Everything has an origin and explanation and the wine only gains in being more than just wine or simple food product. This producer can fill books.

A country with almost 900 years of existence has much to get to know. Over the centuries, some families ascended and other have fallen. In the midst of crises and wars some houses went over to the enemy side and others remained loyal to the country.

In two of the three periods in which it was necessary to fight for independence, the Cadaval blood was poured by the Portuguese side. The first two moments are related to our neighbors and the third with Napoleon’s frenchmen. In this last moment the Cadaval family accompanied the King and the rest of the court on the trip to Brazil.

In the dynastic crisis and war against Castela, 1383-1385, the constable Dom Nuno Alvares Pereira was a great strategist and commander of the Portuguese troops. The conflict ended with the Batalha de Aljubarrota, where the invaders were superior in number – the proportion varies according to the chroniclers and historians.

Dona Beatriz Pereira de Alvim, the constable’s daughter, married Dom Afonso, son of King Dom João I, out of wedlock, and that would come to be first Duke of Bragança. The first Cadaval member (though untitled) was Dom Álvaro, the fourth son of the second duke of Bragança – Dom Fernando.

From the first-born, Dom Rodrigo de Melo, the family was adding titles: earl of Olivença (1476 – only one holder), earl of Tentúgal (1504), marquis of Ferreira (1533) and duke of Cadaval (1648), marquis of Cadaval (second son of the eighth duke and the sole holder), and “relative honors” of the royal house.

The first duke of Cadaval was Dom Nuno Álvares Pereira de Melo, the third marquis of Ferreira, whose title was awarded by King Dom João IV, was grace for his role in the War of Restoration against Filipe III of Portugal – Filipe IV of Spain, grandson of the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, Carlos V, house of Habsburg.

So here you see the weight that the Cadaval name has in the history of Portugal. Olga Maria Nicolis di Robilant Álvares Pereira de Melo, Marchioness of Cadaval, via wedding, and a descendant of the Empress Catherine of Russia is an extremely important culture figure, praiseworthy and arts’ promoter, especially the music. Deceased in 1996, she was honored by the Sintra City Council, which gave her name to the Centro Cultural Olga Cadaval.

The aristocrat created friendship bonds from Pope Pius XII to important composers and writers, without ever looking at the political doctrine values, but instead to the talent and culture: Cole Porter, Maurice Ravel, Igor Stravinski, Mstislav Rostropovitch, José Vianna da Motta, Luís de Freitas Branco, Fernando Lopes Graça… just to name a few figures of music.

In Muge on the left bank of the Tejo river and 80 kilometers north of Lisbon, is located the property from where come the wines that are narrated here. It is an area of about 5,000 hectares, where live in harmony cattle, horses, forest and wine.

The property is managed by Teresa Schönborn, Olga Cadaval granddaughter. The name indicates the way to Germany. Her mother, Graziela Álvares Pereira de Melo, was married to Karl Anton von Schönborn, eighth Earl of Schönborn-Wiesentheid. The wine is also grown in the German areas: Schloss Schönborn (Rheingau – Reno) and Schloss Hallburg (Franken – Franconian).

Returning to the Tejo, in 1994 the Casa Cadaval abandoned the business of selling wine in bulk and it assumed itself as a producer and bottler, being one of the first companies of the region to focus on quality and a brand.

A base da gama é formada pela marca Padre Pedro, nome que homenageia um antigo prelado amigo da família. As mais recentes colheitas: Padre Pedro Branco 2014 (arinto, fernão  pires, verdelho e viognier), Padre Pedro Tinto 2012 (aragonês, cabernet sauvignon, merlot e trincadeira – seis meses de estágio em barricas de carvalho francês) e Padre Pedro Rosé 2013 (aragonês, merlot e touriga nacional).

The basis of the range is formed by the brand Padre Pedro, a name that pays homage to an old prelate family friend. The latest vintages: Padre Pedro white 2014 (Arinto, Fernão Pires, Verdelho and Viognier), Padre Pedro red 2012 (Aragonês, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Trincadeira – six months in French oak barrels) and Padre Pedro Rosé 2013 (Aragonês, Merlot and Touriga Nacional).

Padre Pedro white – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

Padre Pedro red – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

Padre Pedro rosé – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

 

The white and the rosé come with a happy 12.5% alcohol, which makes them well suited for the summer, both for conversation, snacks or light meals. The red has one more percentage point up asks not heavy meat. Easy wines, in the best meaning of the word – relaxed and affordable (I think) to most wallets and easy to find.

A level above are the Padre Pedro Reserva white 2013 (Viognier and Arinto – six months in French oak barrels) and Padre Pedro Reserva red 2012 (Alicante Bouschet, Merlot, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira – eight months in French oak barrels and six months in the bottle). The white can be matched all the way up from spicy fish dishes to some not very fatty meat stews. The red is better with stronger and well spiced meats, from veal to pork.

Padre Pedro Reserva white – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

Padre Pedro Reserva red – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

The wines that have the domain’s name are monovarietal, produced from grapes with good performance. The latest are Casa Cadaval Trincadeira Preta in 2011 (a year of aging in new French oak barrels and more than a year in bottle), Casa Cadaval Pinot Noir 2012 (six months in French oak barrels and another half year in bottle) and Casa Cadaval Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (eight months in new French oak barrels and six months in bottle).

Casa Cadaval Trincadeira Preta – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

Casa Cadaval Pinot Noir – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

Casa Cadaval Cabernet Sauvignon – Photo Provided by Casa Cadaval | All Rights Reserved

At the pinnacle is a wine that does homage to Olga Cadaval. An excellent wine of the Tejo, with aromatic complexity and with strength and elegance on the palate – long lasting in the mouth. Although it is pleasurable, I think keeping it for three or four years will benefit it. The producer offers a ten years’ “guarantee” – metaphor.

The Marquesa de Cadaval 2012 is a red approved as Reserva. It’s a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira – aged a year in new French oak barrels and another year in bottle. It deserves to be served at the holiday table … or as assured the poet José Carlos Ary dos Santos: Christmas is when a man wants.

Contacts
Casa Cadaval
Rua Vasco da Gama
2125-317 Muge – Portugal
Tel: (+351) 243 588 040
Fax: (+351) 243 581 105
E-mail: geral@casacadaval.pt
Website: www.casacadaval.pt