Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira
After last summer’s visit, I return once again to the wines of Tiago Cabaço. It’s also a return to Estremoz, where in addition to the built heritage one can also regain strengths in the producer’s mother’s restaurant, the cozy São Rosas.
Three wines to be drunk at the table and unhurried. I am among those who believe that vigorous reds have to be saved for the colder months, when the weight of the meat requires anti-earthquake foundations. It is true that it nestles in a different way, but I do not spend the summer eating salads and poultry viands’. What I say about the reds, I would point it out to yellows too.
Let’s go step by step so the words do not get spilled confusedly. From the whites to the red. The winemaker Susana Esteban continues to score.
The .Com Premium White 2015 is a blend of the grape varieties Antão Vaz, Verdelho and Viognier. The fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks and no aging in oak barrels. It’s a white for Alentejo nectars lovers, especially for lovers of the Antão Vaz fruit. It’s a wine with nerve and I would not drink it without food, but seafood isn’t recommended. Who knows, something more substantial.
The Tiago Cabaço Vinhas Velhas White 2014 is a product of vines with more than 35 years. It’s a Blend of Roupeiro, Arinto and Antão Vaz. The technical sheet says that it was aged in wood, but does not provide any specifications. Anyway, the wood does not bring down the natural features. This one is more robust than the .Com Premium White 2015 and has the minerality that characterizes many Estremoz wines. It has an interesting balance between warmth and freshness.
Finally, the “suspect”. I say suspect because before opening it I already kind of knew what would come out of the bottle. The Tiago Cabaço Alicante Bouschet 2012 has an unfortunate fate. It’s not demerit, but the previous year was very generous to the Portuguese winemakers.
The grapes were trodden in stainless steel lagares. The wine aged a year in French oak barrels. The wood adds and does not take anything. I appreciate the combination of the ripe cherries, the earthy notes and the wood. It’s an Alentejo wine and a modern one. Right to the gut!
I also say suspect because it makes us fall without us noticing it – it’s a compliment. And the suspect is dangerous. It has a 14.5% alcohol weight and the acidity disguises it. It also has a hot and fresh temperament. Dine with it late at night, sit down by 23h00 – preferably in a fresh place and where you can hear crickets, cicadas and the chirping of nocturnal birds of prey. And let the conversation go until…
To end with, I alert the reader that the nature of these favorable assessments to the red are because I personally like the wine. I’m not fond of the grape variety Antão Vaz, so even when enhancing the intrinsic quality of the wine, the words do not occur to me in a so cheerful way. On the other hand, I like a lot of the Alicante Bouschet grape variety. Moreover, this red grape variety is particularly happy on Tiago Cabaço’s property.
Fonte do Alqueive – Mártires
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