Text João Barbosa | Translation Jani Dunne

I am a traditionalist, but not an old-fashioned member of the Taliban. I believe some changes are good, and many work out well – even though they displease me, they make me swallow my ego. This tradition business has a flaw: it was invented one day, and for a long time, it wasn’t that inheritance.

My great friend Sérgio Carneiro once came out with a wise and disarming thought: “Traditions are meant to be broken.” To that, I add: some duties are meant to be breached – which is a whole “nother” topic.

For several reasons that I will not list here, so that I don’t lose my way, switching the designations of Estremadura and Ribatejo for Lisbon and Tejo is a smart change. I will focus on Ribatejo, a region that has been despised due to the low quality of many of its wines.

The name of the biggest river in the Iberian Peninsula makes it easier for foreigners to read and washes the old term away. For about two decades, high-quality wine producers (or at least well-known producers) have been around this region, but the number has definitely been growing. To say and to write about Tejo will bring justice to those wine growers.

An old company – the subject of this text – is Fiuza & Bright, who own five properties in the region. Twenty-five references are grouped into seven families: Oceanus (white, rosé and red), Campo dos Frades (white, rosé and red); Native (white, rosé and red); Três Castas (white, rosé and red); Monocastas [or single-variety] (and bi-varietal – Alvarinho, Chardonnay, Chardonnay and Arinto, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Merlot and Touriga Nacional, Touriga Nacional, and Rosé made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga Nacional); Premium (white and red); and Ikon (white and red).

I haven’t had Ikon many times, but I got a good impression of the top Fiuza & Bright Ikon wines. I am a regular consumer of Fiuza in restaurants, because this brand assures quality and offers variety as well as “friendly” prices, an important factor because restaurant businessmen do tend to charge a lot. This option also extends to other wines of the region, such as Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima, which will soon feature in an article.

Those who know me, even if only in written, know that I refuse to recommend wines with a good price/quality ratio – it depends on the pocket, on the importance, the oenophile’s knowledge and on the moment – however, I will take my chances in this case. However, because I know that a psychological barrier is usually set at five euro, I must mention that the retail price for these wines is above that barrier.

Fiuza Sauvignon Blanc – Photo Provided by Fiuza & Bright | All Rights Reserved

Fiuza Touriga Nacional – Photo Provided by Fiuza & Bright | All Rights Reserved

Fiuza Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga Nacional Rosé – Photo Provided by Fiuza & Bright | All Rights Reserved

Three wines were tasted: Fiuza Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Fiuza Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga Nacional Rosé 2014, and Fiuza Touriga Nacional 2013. Three “modern” wines – comparing to the traditional and easily pleasing profiles – with well-expressed varieties, and highly enjoyable.

The Fiuza Sauvignon Blanc 2014 has the virtue of passion fruit, grapefruit and some not-so-ripe Rocha pear. It’s refreshing and has a little finish time with note. Unfortunately, and I once again reveal my picky taste, I do not like tropical wines, especially passion fruit wine. It’s a personal thing, not the wine’s problem; on the contrary, it reveals the grape variety.

Fiuza Touriga Nacional 2013 reveals how flexible the variety is: from Dão violets to Douro cherries, blackberries, raspberries, strawberries and respective jams and jellies, to Alentejo strawberries, wild-fruit salad and respective jams and jellies, to the “darkness” of almost-dried plums, a touch of figs, wild-fruit “salad” in this wine, which was smoothed out in American and French oak casks during a six-month ageing period, conveying a hint of nutmeg, vanilla and a faint speck of caramel (hold in the glass).

The favourite and “funny” Fiuza Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga Nacional Rosé 2014: two excellent varieties that do not fight but dance together. Refreshing, with crunchy greens, evoking pepper from the French variety, violets – what you get for picking specific grapes for rosés and still benefiting from low alcohol levels – blackberries and strawberries.

Contacts
Fiuza & Bright, Lda.
Travessa do Vareta, nº11
2080 – 184 ALMEIRIM
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 243 597 491
Fax: (+351) 243 579 247
E-mail: info@fiuzabright.pt
Website: www.fiuzabright.pt