Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Gaveto restaurant started off as a seafood eatery in Matosinhos – yet another one. It was bought by Manuel Pinheiro in 1984.

From then onwards, they carried on serving seafood, but the place was turned into a more comfortable restaurant with good traditional Portuguese food. The list of clients gradually grew, and the restaurant was always very busy, which was the result of not only the friendliness and professionalism that the owner always demanded of his staff, but also thanks to the extremely high-quality products used in the many dishes they offer. Those values were passed onto Mr. Pinheiro’s children, who despite having studied unrelated subjects, made an early start at helping their father in the restaurant and in the guesthouse in Porto. The guesthouse has been transformed into a high-quality boutique hotel now managed by the daughter, Cristina. The eldest son, José Manuel, started working with his father in Gaveto (Matosinhos) almost from the start. Later, in 1995, they were joined by João Carlos, the other son.

Gaveto Restaurant – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Gaveto Restaurant – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

They put in a lot of work, dedication, simplicity, and a good relationship with both staff and customers, which grew constantly. Today, a huge amount of clients is composed of the two brothers’ friends and of regulars. The dad, Manuel, now retired, continues to pop in daily to offer one or two pieces of advice, but especially because he enjoys watching the success of his long-term project in the competent hands of his sons.

Fresh fish – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Seafood – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The seafood and fresh fish of the day are always available on demand, with extremely simple recipe books that allow the quality of the products to glow.

Two huge beds of live seafood at the entrance are guarantees of ocean freshness.

Lobster – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Seafood – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In addition, a huge glass cupboard displays some ready-boiled seafood and the many types of fresh fish, in plain sight. The giant tank, usually housing lobsters, will be hosting a lot of lamprey from January, the stars of the restaurant, which will also be alive. Cooked à bordalesa [Sliced, marinated in white wine and boiled in its own blood and vinegar, served with rice or toast] or in lamprey rice, they attract crowds of fans, who will not feel disappointed through to April. Also glowing in that season will be the shad – always cooked to perfection. The snack-bar service is successful too; be it small appetisers, the delicious seafood soup, barbequed food on the bread and, of course, the traditional Francesinha (a Portuguese twist on the French croque-monsieur). To be enjoyed with an ice-cold, very well-pressed beer.

However, in the last few years, the wine service and supply has been building up a real passion to the point where the current wine list includes the biggest names in the country, and even a few very good foreign wines. Many well-known national producers have become regulars; some are even friends with the two brothers and organise many tastings and presentations of their new releases and rarities. The latter make perfect matches with many of the dishes that have become compulsory choices for many of those very clients.

Wines – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Monkfish rice – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Besides the seafood dishes that combine well with sparkling wines and refreshing full-bodied whites, the choice becomes refined, with the monkfish rice or the superb lobster rice, one of the best dishes I know. Or even a special white to side with a sole or a piece of grouper grilled on charcoal.

Lobster rice – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Seafood rice – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The seafood rice is very traditional of this place, and so are the tasty and plump Bulhão Pato clams [Clams are cooked in white wine and olive oil].

Bulhão Pato clams – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Narcisa-style codfish – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Also on the menu are the codfish meals, especially the Narcisa-style codfish: tall chunks of cod fried to perfection with a lot of fried onion and potato rounds.

Or even a traditional carne de porco à alentejana [Fried pork cubes and clams with potato cubes]. On Saturdays, the tripas à moda do Porto [Boiled tripes with fresh and smoked meats and vegetables.] dish brings in many loyal customers.

Carne de porco à alentejana – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Seafood soup – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

On our last visit, we began with the delicious seafood soup, which had a delicate touch of spices.

John dory – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Redoma White 2013 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Afterwards, we had a plain fillet of fresh hake with a gorgeous Russian salad (cold salad of boiled vegetables with boiled egg and mayo); then, we ended the meal with john dory in very well-fried thin pieces, accompanied with a gorgeous seafood panada of the fish roe!

The Redoma White 2013 behaved beautifully…

Contacts
Restaurante O Gaveto
Rua Roberto Ivens, 826
4450-249 Matosinhos – Portugal
Tel: (+351) 229 378 796
Fax: (+351) 229 383 812
E-mail:geral@ogaveto.com
Website: www.ogaveto.com