Text Ilkka Sirén

Easter time is upon us. We Finns are quite talented in taking any religious holiday, remove anything vaguely religious about it and turn it into a big eating and drinking fest. Sure there is people who go old-school but for most people it’s just a long weekend filled with friends and family around a big table having a good time. We do have our fair share of Easter-kitsch, though. Easter bunnies, chicks and chocolate eggs are abundant. The most famous choclate egg is called Mignon and it’s been around since the late 1800. It’s a real empty egg shell filled with almond-hazelnut nougat. Hollow chocolate eggs are nothing compared to this. There is about two million Mignon eggs waiting to be eaten this week, which is quite incredible considering they are all handmade.

Speaking of weird Easter traditions. Finnish people also grow grass in their homes during Easter. Not the illegal kind, just your average green ryegrass, in a small bowl which is placed on the table together with some budding tree twigs. It’s supposed to symbolize rebirth of life after winter and the arrival of spring. On top of this there is a tradition of dressing children as witches. Yes, that’s right. It was believed in the old days that during Easter there was witches flying about on their brooms doing all kinds of mischief. Now the kids go door-to-door dressed as witches, whisking willow twigs at strangers to wish them well, for which the kids might receive some candy. A weird mix of Orthodox and pagan traditions. Back in the day big bonfires were also burned to scare the evil witches away. This is still practised even today. As you can see from the picture above; every Easter as a child I used to look like Harry Potter’s grandmother.

Thankfully my career as Dumbledore was not meant to be. Instead I get to drink this quite magical LBV 2008 from Graham’s and relax with my family. Wine consumption goes up quite a bit in Finland during Easter. Especially red wine which is sold from the monopoly stores about 64% more than on an average week. Consumption of dessert wines also go up a bit which brings me to this port wine. A velvety LBV is an excellent Easter drink. I usually serve some fizzy Moscato d’Asti with lighter desserts like panna cotta. But with heavier chocolate desserts and mämmi, this really strange Finnish dessert, I rather go with a sturdy LBV. 2008 was my first visit to Portugal and I worked the harvest in the Douro Valley. I remember that the summer wasn’t particularly hot, for Portugal that is. For a pale Finnish boy it was like roasting in an oven. It felt like I was maturing much faster than the grapes. When the harvest did start there was some grim weather forecasts but even with some, probably much-needed rains, the vintage quality turned out quite good. Especially with some Single Quintas and LBV’s the level is actually more than good.

With the firm yet delicate Graham’s LBV 2008 I’m going super classic with the food pairing. Port wine and an old crumbling Gouda cheese is probably my all time favorite. When that cheese breaks down to small salty crystals in your mouth and you wash it down with this rich, fruity port with tons of depth, the end result is pretty much the closest thing to perfection. The port has already a few years behind it and as a LBV it starting to get that really attractive smoothness around the edges but still remain vibrant and delicious. I shall sip this wine with a big fat smile on my face and keep a tight grip on the glass so that the thirsty Easter witches wont steal it.

Contacts
Graham’s Porto
Vila Nova de Gaia
Portugal
Tel: +351 223 776 484 / 485
Email: Lodge: grahams@grahamsportlodge.com
             General: grahams@grahams-port.com
Website: www.grahams-port.com