Posts Categorized : Others

Biodynamic Wine by Monty Waldin

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Bruno Ferreira

It is the latest pearl added to the already wide range of books devoted to the world of wine with the seal of the publisher Infinite Ideas. Each title of “The Infinite Ideas Classic Wine Library” covers a region, country or type of wine and if we take into account the other books that have already been addressed here then we can say that the quality is once again on a very high level.

This book entitled Biodynamic Wine deals with a controversial and argument generator subject. On one side we have the admirers and followers/practitioners and on the other a lot of skeptics and nonbelievers. The author is Monty Waldin, an authority when it comes to organic and biodynamic wine, also a critic, consultant and winegrower. The book is an open window to the biodynamic wine, a true source of knowledge where the author explains the processes and philosophies of this way of being in the world of wines with a fluid and engaging writing, step by step.

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Biodynamic Wine by Monty Waldin

Over the 222 pages we are guided through the Biodynamic wine world. Do not expect evaluation of wines or producers because you simply won’t find any. Once the necessary introduction is made we are taken on a trip to the origins of Biodynamic where Rudolf Steiner’s figure gets an expected important role. In the following chapters we are told about all the prepared, where we get to know among other things why the cow’s horns are stuffed of manure and buried at some point of the year, this and much more, always guided by the most varied techniques and alternative treatments that are listed and explained one by one. How important is the vortex by the time it’s necessary to streamline the prepared? Or which is the connection of the bodies to the cosmos and why the work is done following the celestial rhythm? Finally, a chapter dedicated to the Demeter certification, the accuracy is the same as always as is the will to continue reading and understanding this way of being that is increasingly gaining supporters among wine producers around the world.

A book of reference and mandatory for those that have in some way a connection to the fantastic world of wine, both for professionals as for wine lovers.

Quinta da Terrincha

Text Bruno Mendes

In Torre de Moncorvo, and more specifically in the Vilariça Valley near the National Road 102, the Quinta da Terrincha is located in the Douro Demarcated Region. It once belonged to the Counts of Pinhel and today is owned by the Seixas Pinto family who acquired it in the late twentieth century in a state of neglect.

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Quinta da Terrincha Aerial View – Photo Provided by Quinta da Terrincha | All Rights Reserved

This is a property with an area of over 300 hectares that has undergone a comprehensive redesign with the intention of not only monetize the investment, but also return all relevance and graciousness that Quinta da Terrincha had once had. Thus, the family proceeded to planting considerable expanses of vineyards and olive groves and invested on wine tourism having now a restaurant “Canto da Terrincha” and a hotel complex consisting of a hotel in the finishing phase and 15 rural tourism houses of typologies T1, T2 and T3.

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Quinta da Terrincha – Photo Provided by Quinta da Terrincha | All Rights Reserved

To the initial 50 hectares of vineyards planted with the grape varieties (Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Sousão, Gouveio, Viosinho, Rabigato and Arinto, among others) they added in 2016 another 13 hectares.

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Quinta da Terrincha white – Photo Provided by Quinta da Terrincha | All Rights Reserved

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Quinta da Terrincha red – Photo Provided by Quinta da Terrincha | All Rights Reserved

These are the grapes that give birth to the Quinta da Terrincha wines, namely Quinta da Terrincha red, Quinta da Terrincha white, Quinta da Terrincha Rosé and Quinta da Terrincha red Lote T13.

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Quinta da Terrincha Rosé – Photo Provided by Quinta da Terrincha | All Rights Reserved

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Quinta da Terrincha red Lote T13 – Photo Provided by Quinta da Terrincha | All Rights Reserved

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The Vineyards – Photo Provided by Quinta da Terrincha | All Rights Reserved

Besides the wine, the olive oil is another important investment of this Quinta. In total there are 80 hectares of olive groves with the varieties Verdeal, Cordovil, Cobrançosa, Madural. Quinta da Terrincha’s olive oil is the result of an organic production process, which benefits greatly from the climate and soil conditions of where the olive grove is planted.

Cheese is another highlight product of this Quinta. Quinta da Terrincha has its own production of Terrincho cheese, a protected designation of origin (DOP). The cheeses are produced in the Quinta’s cheese dairy and are 100% made of Churra da Terra Quente Transmontana ewes’ milk (also known as the Terrincha sheep), which are seen as excellent milk producers for the production of this unique cheese and much appreciated in the entire Portugal’s extent. The Terrincho cheese is a ripened cheese that undergoes a maturation of no less than 30 days to a maximum of 90 days, which originates the variant Terrincho Velho. In addition, they also produce fresh cheese and creamy cheese.

Other products of this Quinta are the vinegar, table grapes, olives, honey, pumpkins, among others.

In addition to the Vilariça Valley, Quinta da Terrincha also has a vast mountainous and steep area, totaling 80 hectares, where we can find waterfalls, mines, ponds, 20 hectares of poplars and a grove of oaks and junipers which is an important priority habitat of the Rede Natura 2000. All very well interconnected with walking trails that allow visitors to experience in fullness, and in a functional way, all the beauty of this Quinta. There, on top of the mountain, the view is wonderful and one can see the entire length of the Quinta, the Valley and all its surroundings.

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Quinta da Terrincha – Photo Provided by Quinta da Terrincha | All Rights Reserved

Taking now a closer look at the extent area dedicated to the wine tourism, with a total of 70 hectares, the Seixas family started in 2009 the recovery of all existing buildings having now 15 rural tourism houses of typologies T1, T2 and T3 totaling 30 rooms. Also, in finishing stage is a small hotel of charm in the Antigo Solar Oitocentista (Casa Mãe), which aims to provide the guests a comfortable stay while allowing them at the same time to enjoy all the rurality and rustic environment that characterizes the Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro region.

All of this is complemented by the “Canto da Terrincha” restaurant with capacity for 40 people, and whose motto is “every customer is a friend!” The aim is to offer customers a peaceful and welcoming atmosphere so they can enjoy the most the typical regional dishes. Food quality is guaranteed, since almost all products that are available and are used in the restaurant are from the Quinta itself, sporting a certificate of organic farming.

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Quinta da Terrincha – Photo Provided by Quinta da Terrincha | All Rights Reserved

Some of the specialties that you may try at this restaurant are the posta de vitela (veal), costeleta de vitela (veal chop), alheiras, kid, river fish (bogas), cod in the oven, octopus “drowned” in olive oil, among others. Finally, between the many desserts there is a very special one, the delicious Terrincho cheese with pumpkin jam.

If you haven’t been there yet, Quinta da Terrincha is undoubtedly a Quinta to get to know whether it be accompanied by your partner, family or friends, and let yourself go by its wine, gastronomy and surrounding environment!

Contacts
Quinta da Terrincha – Sociedade Agrícola, S.A.
Quinta da Terrincha, Estrada Nacional 102
5160-002 Adeganha – Torre de Moncorvo
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 279 979 525
E-mail: geral@quintadaterrincha.pt
Website: www.quintadaterrincha.pt

Quinta do Vale Meão

Text José Silva | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Visiting Quinta do Vale Meão is always a pleasure, a delightful adventure even. It’s one of the Quintas that belonged to D. Antónia Adelaide Ferreira (one of the most known), which has now for many years belonged to her great-great-grandson Vito Olazabal, a man of the Douro with deep knowledge of the region and passionate for its land, vineyards and wines. He’s married to Luísa Nicolau de Almeida (daughter of Fernando Nicolau de Almeida) who is also viscerally connected to the Douro. Their sons live and work there, Xito works in the vineyards and winemaking, Luísa in the hard task of marketing and selling those nectars of excellence. The Douro runs in their veins; they’re a family with “patine” … On a recent visit, at the time of Encontros do Douro Superior, we were greeted, as always, with the simplicity and friendliness, quality and good taste typical of them.

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New area by the pool – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

In a new area by the pool, parents and daughter (the son was abroad at the time) presented us with the best, as usual.

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The pool – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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The field – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

The landscape, right there in front of us, spoke for itself and it is very difficult to describe: the grass field right next to the pool (where the kids play football), the vineyards extending to the river and, at last, the morphology of this superior, bright, full of light and unique Douro.

Then it was time for a commented tasting, led by Vito. The tasting was accompanied by several snacks that were spread across the table, at our disposal. The Meandro white, quite fresh, was already running through the glasses, and the easy talk alternated with the superb landscape that is possible to experience there. This white is great, the nose is somewhat exotic, attractive, full of freshness and elegance, followed by a palate that combines freshness and acidity, with ripe white fruit and citrus notes leading us to a slight minerality. Always feels like having another glass.

Already in conviviality mood, we were invited to go up to the huge terrace that runs alongside the house, with huge trees that provide a soothing shade to the sun’s inclemency. There, next to the swimming pool’s overlooking railing, the tables were set and well-equipped for the meal.

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Crispy orange peel strips – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Caldo Verde – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

Regional bread, some curious crispy orange peel strips and a traditional “Caldo Verde” exhaling an amazing aroma, delicious. Then it was time for the Meandro red 2013, and the big news, the Monte Meão 2013 made from grapes of the Cantina vineyard, with the grape variety … Baga! That’s right, Baga in the Douro Superior!!

The wine is great, full of structure, intense, with claw, very balanced and excellent acidity, a nice surprise.

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Monte Meão 2013 – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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The cod – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

As a main dish we savored roast cod in the live coal, chipped, with baked potatoes and egg, olives, sprinkled with parsley. To accompany the main dish, a tomato salad, another of vegetables and a “porretas” salad (a salad made with green stalks of leeks, very tasty). By then we were also already drinking the Quinta do Vale Meão 2013, a delicious bomb, full structure, bulky, very fruity, intense, an extraordinary wine, one of the great reds from the Douro Superior. The conversation went on very interesting with humor and good mood of the hosts. With so many other stories to tell, if we could stay there until the sun has set.

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Cheese board – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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Squash and almonds cake – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

But it was time for the end of the meal, with a nice cheese board and a delicious squash and almonds cake. Many continued in the reds, others went for the Port Vintage Vale Meão, from the year 2001! Wow!

A delightful interpretation of what a great Vintage is. A perfume, an essence, full-bodied, vibrant acidity to balance the set, that’s all we need for one last peek at that landscape that never tires… At the time of parting, one last look back, to the huge gate that displays with gallantry in wrought iron: Quinta do Vale Meão – Antónia Adelaide Ferreira – 1894.

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The wines – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

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The gate – Photo by José Silva | All Rights Reserved

A family with “patine”…

Contacts
Quinta do Vale Meão
5150-501 Vila Nova de Foz Côa
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 279 762 156
Fax: (+351) 279 762 207
E-mail: geral@quintadovalemeao.pt
Website: www.quintadovalemeao.pt

Lusovini – Production and Distribution

Text Bruno Mendes

Lusovini was founded in 2009 and is based in Vila de Nelas in the Dão. This is where its offices, warehouses and wineries are located. This company has been developing its business through an internationalization policy. The company has expanded its horizons to Angola, Mozambique and Brazil under the names Lusovini Angolaa, Mozamvini and Brasvini, respectively.

In addition to the own production in the various Portuguese wine regions of brands like Cativo (Vinho Verde DOC), Palavrar (Douro DOC) and Torre de Coimbra (Bairrada DOC) among others, Lusovini also bets on a network of partnerships with producers and oenologists such as Anselmo Mendes (Vinho Verde), Domingos Alves de Sousa (Douro), Luís Duarte (Alentejo), Álvaro de Castro and João Paulo Gouveia (Dão) among others, thus allowing it to cover a wider range of regions and target audience.

To find out more about this production/distribution company see the video below:

Quinta de la Rosa – in the heart of Alto Douro

Text Bruno Mendes

Near Pinhão, about 100kms from Porto and on the river banks of the Douro we can find Quinta de la Rosa, which is owned by the Bergqvist family since 1906. It currently has 55 hectares of vineyards with the red grape varieties Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão and Souzão and the white grape varieties Viosinho, Rabigato and Códega.

In 2011 Quinta de la Rosa underwent a complete refurbishment, which was being prepared for 7 years and ended in 2012. This remodeling included a new wine cellar, storage facilities with controlled temperature, an improvement in unloading and grape selection facilities, among others.

For a more detailed view of this producer see the video below and see the previously published article here.

Portuguese Wine – Fashion or Justice?

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

It seems that not a day goes by without the Portuguese gastronomy being news subject, positively, whether referring to food or wine – mainly the drink. In the view of this, how do I feel like being Portuguese? I don’t know and the reason is because I don’t know whether to attribute this to fashion or justice.

Those reading will say:

– How do you not know? You ought to know. If you write about wine it is mandatory for you to know.

True! But there is always a parallax error, the result of affection and memory. The subjectivity that dictates that the mother’s food is the best in the world or that the Portuguese national team deserves, right from the first game, to win the football championship.

I’m not a fanatic, but my roots are in Portugal. Of course I think the highlight that the country is having on gastronomy has more of justice than fashion. There is certainly evaluation error, although hopefully reduced.

Being fashionable is good! It cheers up, provides self-esteem, gives notoriety. However, it’s something passenger. If something is always in fashion it’s because it’s not about fashion, instead it means quality in abundance.

Fashion is cyclical and the quality is structural. So, those inspired by recognition just have to keep insisting in the search of quality differentiation. In this way it will get an increased value.

That’s why I do not like to hear that saying something has a good relationship between price and quality. I do not see that as something praising, although the majority of people consider that that means a good opportunity or justice.

Paying ten cents for a hectoliter is a good relationship between quality and price? IT IS! It is because, regardless of quality, anyone who takes the opportunity will make money with it. But that does not mean the wine has quality… of course not. The problem is that the premise isn’t that, but a balance between one thing and the other.

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Wine in tasteportugal-london.com

I want Portuguese wine to get the reputation of the French or Italian wine – just to cite two examples. Producing well is within reach of those who engage, and getting it done cheap is within reach of those who get afflicted workers.

Obviously, expensive does not mean quality. Moreover, no one likes to feel stupid, so paying 50 euros per 0.75 liters of swill will be a once in a lifetime episode. Justice is at the point where a product is sold at the same price that another with comparable quality.

Having a “good relationship between quality and price” can helpful initially and relieve pressure on the treasury. In the medium term it becomes unfair. If I still haven’t convinced the reader, I have the ultimate argument:

Portugal turnovers more with fruit and vegetables than with wine. This means that the added value (VAT) is not paid fairly. Generalizing and assuming that the cost of land is comparable and that the factors of production are comparable, it’s way more profitable to make sprouts than wine. There are no expenses with the oenology or with longer storage and the tied in capital is much smaller.

Back to the beginning, Portuguese wine has been recognized and in various ways. Of all the news, I value those that do not address the price factor. I refer to the critic’s assessments, with qualitative scores only, or to victories in prestigious competitions.

People will say that great wines, those that cost about the same as a small car of the city, do not enter the competition, so the victories are relative. Of course, those who have something to lose do not go into play. The new arrivals are the ones that must show worthiness. Young riders challenge the great lords.

It is said that “he who sings scares away his woes”, but the music has been rough to the Portuguese. In 48 editions of Eurovision Festival, in which Portugal failed only four editions, Portuguese musicians never managed to go beyond the sixth place – Lúcia Moniz in 1996 with “O meu coração não tem cor” (My heart has no color).

The fault lies with the dictatorship, but the young democracy was not awarded. Because Portugal buys few television programs, but other small countries buy the same and have won. Because the Portuguese language is difficult, but Brazil is a musical superpower … almost anything goes to justify the defeats.

While the Portuguese music doesn’t win the Eurovision Festival and the lusophone literature does not reach the more than fair second Nobel Prize, the wine gives us encouragement, soothing the sorrows.

Let the lasting recognition come. And I’m almost certain that when the Portuguese winemakers manage to solidify the reputation, the gastronomy (some signs are already emerging) will become ‘mandatory’, which will take critics of the red book – not the one of the Maoism, but the one of the tires – to post stars in houses that have earned the right to bear them for many years now.

Grupo Enoport United Wines

Text Bruno Mendes

The history of Enoport begins in 1881 with the foundation of Adegas Camillo Alves, the oldest company of the group of companies that came to give rise to the Group Enoport United Wines. It arose from João Camillo Alves’ desire to trade quality wines in an organized way.

It is a group that produces wines in several regions of the country, and different ranges, since it has acquired several other companies over the years, such as Cavipor, Caves Velhas or Caves Acácio.

To get a more detailed view about the history of the Group Enoport United Wines see the video below.

Casa Santos Lima – A family business

Text Bruno Mendes

Founded in the XIX century by Joaquim Santos Lima, the Casa Santos Lima has always been a family business. Nowadays, and since 1990, Maria Santos Lima and José Santos Lima manage the company, and it was them who started the process of modernizing the production structure and replanting most of the vineyards.

It is a property consisting of contiguous Quintas totaling around 290 hecatares, among them are the Quinta da Boavista, Quinta das Setencostas, Quinta de Bons-Ventos, Quinta da Espiga, Quinta das Amoras, Quinta do Vale Perdido, Quinta do Figo and Quinta do Espírito Santo.

In these Quintas are planted around 50 different grape varieties, national and international, and some with an experimental nature. For example, in the whites are planted the Arinto, Fernão Pires, Moscatel, Rabo-de-Ovelha, Seara Nova e Vital, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and in the reds the Alfrocheiro, Camarate, Castelão, Preto Martinho, Sousão, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Miúda, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira, Alicante-Bouschet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Caladoc, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah.

To get more in-depth knowledge on Casa Santos Lima see the video below.

Cortes de Cima – Vidigueira

Text Bruno Mendes

It was in 1988, in Vidigueira, near the Serra do Mendro and specifically in Cortes de Cima that Hans and his wife Carrie decided to settle in order to start a family and to plant a vineyard. In 1991 the first vines were planted and the option, contrary to what would be expected, fell on red grape varieties. Among them, and “against” the DOC regulations at the time, was the Syrah, which achieved such success that led to the amendment of these regulations.

The property consists of 400 hectares, of which 140 are planted vineyard, 112 with the red varieties Aragonês, Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Petit Verdot, Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon, and 28 hectares with the white varieties Antão Vaz, Alvarinho, Verdelho, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Gouveio e Chardonnay.

To get to know more about the history of Cortes de Cima see the video below and stay tuned for our upcoming article next week.

Quinta dos Carvalhais – Dão Wines

Text Bruno Mendes

Quinta dos Carvalhais is a Sogrape brand expert in Dão wines. It was acquired in 1988 from the perspective of expansion of a project in the region, which had begun in 1957. It is located in Mangualde and has 105 hectares, 50 of which with vines with noble regional grape varieties such as Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro, among others.

The head winemaker is Manuel Vieira and at modern winemaking center they produce the wines Quinta de Carvalhais Único, Reserva, Colheita, Encruzado and other varietals, Colheita Tardia e Espumante Reserva Rosé, exclusively using its own grapes, combining experience with state of the art techniques . Here, they also produce the wines Duque de Viseu white and red, in this case combining own grapes with grapes purchased from local producers.

To get to know Quinta dos Carvalhais in more detail, see the video below and read João Barbosa’s article here: