Posts By : João Pedro Carvalho

Blackett – Dated Ports or the path of temptation…

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

I have indeed a big crush by Port wine, and more specifically by dated Tawnies. The ladder or path of temptation and damnation that the 10, 20, 30 or over 40 years represent, is for me a paradise without end. I admit that my wallet does not allow me to enjoy the heavenly pleasures and all the exclusivity that an over 40 years gives us. But I can also say that I get quite satisfied with the more affordable pleasures that 10 and 20 Years provide. Well, with this in mind I have to bring to conversation the newest recent releases of a producer that has already been approached here, Blackett. In fact, it becomes difficult to have to go down the stairs because once we’re up here it all looks more beautiful and graceful. The luxuries of a 30 Years Port are quite different, and who likes to give them up?

The presentation of the producer was approached in the previous article when I focused on the Blackett 30 years. This time I changed the twists to the game, if it was even a game, and I started the tasting with the Blackett 10 years, a style in which was expected to be the fruit to appear in large numbers like in other houses, but not here, the fruit eventually comes but we can notice that the evolution and even the whole blend that was built around there has a slightly more evolved bouquet and that is good, very good. So we’re before a 10 years that appears to be a little older, sweet-tooth and fresh, with greatly involving and a great definition of flavors. The fruit is present in its most macerated touches, raisin fruit, a good unctuosity combining with dried fruit and a buttery touch. On the palate shows up very fresh, complex, with a beautiful balance between fruit/unctuosity/ freshness/sweetness, in a long finish. It is the golden key to end in beauty a meal with friends, family or even that late evening when the calm has already taken over.

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Port Blackett 10 years – Photo Provided by Alchemy Wines | All Rights Reserved

Ending in beauty with the 20 Years, which I dare to say that it was the one I liked the most from this trilogy of Port Blackett, even more than the 30 years. Perfect balance between the energy of youth and the wisdom that only comes with age. With all of this the end result could only be very good. A greater presence of dried fruit with a touch of caramel, broad and unctuous, very fresh, showing an ability to captivate us more and more. The palate conquers us thanks to the harmony it displays, slightly drier but with a more lasting presence. It’s a 20 Years Port of high level that goes directly into my lot of favorites wines. It’s one of those wines designed to accompany our own private moments, on the couch listening to our favorite CD or reading the book that catches our attention or that series we follow religiously the end of the night.

Contacts
Alchemy Wines
Avenida da Boavista, nº2121 – 4º Sala 405
4100-130 Porto
Portugal
Website: www.alchemywines.pt

Quintas de Melgaço – QM Homenagem Reserva 2014
Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Today we head towards the beautiful region of Vinho Verde where the grape variety Alvarinho is queen.

Video by QM – All Rights Reserved

It is the terroir of Monção and Melgaço that gives birth to the best specimens of Alvarinho, and very recently, by the hand of Quintas de Melgaço, was released one of such specimens of taking off the hat. Around there, it all began about 20 years ago due to Amadeu Abílio Lopes’s love for the homeland (Melgaço), founder of Quintas de Melgaço and who was recently honored with the launch of this QM Homenagem Reserva 2014. The Quintas de Melgaço brings together passion and tradition, we’re talking about more than 500 producers in the region that get their grapes to the winery. From the best Alvarinho grapes of 2014 was born this precious and rare wine, which aged in wood and had a final production of around thousand units.

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The Quinta – Photo Provided by Quintas de Melgaço | All Rights Reserved

At the risk of repeating myself, it is necessary to draw the attention of consumers to the current quality of white wines created in this region of excellence. The evidence regarding the quality and longevity are more than proven year after year. A warning that suits wines of all ranges because even the cheapest wines have surprises just around the corner. The truth is that the virtuosity with which the Minho white wines glow at the table is fantastic, even more so if we consider it as an accompaniment to everything that is fish or shellfish. They seem to have the Midas touch and it should be noted the fact that the region did not let itself be consumed by external grape varieties instead of its native grape varieties Alvarinho, Loureiro, Trajadura, Avesso… because they were able to understand that this is there where they shine and know how to win us with all their energy and perfume.

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QM Homenagem Reserva – Photo Provided by Quintas de Melgaço | All Rights Reserved

Let us, therefore, meet the will of such a special wine like this QM Homenagem Reserva 2014, which enjoys a fantastic energy and freshness. The grape variety shows itself with panache and some daringness, razor-sharp acidity with a good mineral austerity in the background. The passage by wood gives it extra complexity and slightly calms its spirit, for the rest it’s one of those whites that needs time in the glass but essentially in the bottle, for further growth. It was accompanied by a white grouper cataplana with cockles and mussels, to be drank and cry for more.

100 Years of Moscatel de Setúbal by José Maria da Fonseca

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

It’s in the Península de Setúbal that lies one of the oldest registered Portugal’s Designations of Origin (DOC) – the Moscatel de Setúbal region, whose demarcation was started in 1907 and was confirmed and completed in 1908. It is geographically bounded by the municipalities of Setúbal, Palmela, Montijo and the parish of Castelo, which belongs to the municipality of Sesimbra. The Moscatel de Setúbal is made from the grape that gives it the name, it’s part of the fantastic four’s Portuguese fortified wines, along with the Port wine, the Madeira wine and the Carcavelos wine. Its charms get lost in time and the role of the company José Maria da Fonseca is crucial since it is an active producer since 1834, with a unique heritage in the world of Muscat wines. Appreciated by kings and the people, this authentic treasure is, according Léon Douarche, “The Sun in the bottle.”. In the time of King Dinis I of Portugal (1261-1325) the Moscatel de Setúbal had fame already, being exported in large quantities to England or France where Louis XIV did not dispense it at the parties he threw at Versailles.

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Casks – Photo Provided By José Maria da Fonseca | All Rights Reserved

Finished the proper introductions, the house José Maria da Fonseca decided to release a limited edition box containing four dated wines, which in total add up to 100 years of Moscatel. A real temptation for all wine lovers who, this way, can taste and compare four wines of excellent quality and of so rare production. The Moscatel de Setúbal are placed on the market from 2 years of age, they may hold on its label the vintage year or the indications of “10 years old”, “20 years old”, “30 years old” or “more than 40 years old”, provided that the wine in question, or any batch of the blend that composes it, has at least the stated age. There is also the Superior designation which, not being this case, is only given to wines with a minimum of five years of age that have obtained the outstanding quality rating from the Tasters Chamber. In this case, what we have in the glass are four exemplars: 10 Years, 20 Years, 30 Years and Over 40 Years old.

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Cask – Photo Provided By José Maria da Fonseca | All Rights Reserved

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Moscatel 10, 20, 30 and 40 Years Old – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Moscatel de Setúbal 10 Years: Endowed with a great freshness, a lot of fruit with candied orange standing out, light jam, flowers, dried fig with some dried fruits (nuts) already beginning to show. Ample and at the same time very well balanced, engaging with a beautiful complexity. Great balance between youth notes and the stuff that shows it is already a wine with more age.

Moscatel 20 Years: The jump in quality and also in the palette of aromas and flavors is remarkable. The whole bouquet is endowed with a beautiful intensity that makes it perfume the table and even the room, the orange notes show up more evolved pending to jam, with a treacle touch, a slight of vinagrinho that spikes it up and the greasiness of the dried fruit. The background we can feel the aroma of the centenarians hooves. In the mouth it’s a delight, intense, broad, conquers the palate by the razor-sharp freshness and its impressive way of being, a fantastic wine.

Moscatel 30 Years: A profile of great complexity that shows itself deep and at the same time intense and captivating. It becomes complicated not having the nose in the glass. Many confited citrus fruit notes (orange), caramel, nuts, slight vinagrinho, tobacco leaf, fig raisins. Breathtaking mouth but again endowed with a remarkable balance of power where the acidity seems to be dancing with the sweetness.

Moscatel 40 Years: It is the apogee of this tasting and a treat for the senses. A compendium wine, such is the undusted way with what it shows itself. If have you ever heard of what would a very old Moscatel be like, here is the example. The welcoming is given by the vinagrinho touch, just enough to spike the nose, then the expected unctuousness with aromas of honey and dried figs, candied orange with raisins (figs, dates) and a lot of freshness wrapping the whole. In the mouth, again the freshness, the old wood where it aged, spices, tobacco leaf, dried fruit and jelly, concentrated but not doughy at all and endowed with tremendous energy and harmony set. Unforgettable.

Contacts
Quinta da Bassaqueira – Estrada Nacional 10
2925-542 Vila Nogueira de Azeitão. Setúbal, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 212 197 500
E-mail: info@jmf.pt
Website: www.jmf.pt

Port and the Douro – Richard Mayson

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

I may be repeating myself but I’ll say it again, in a country like Portugal, which has unique heritage and manufactures some of the best things in the world as far as fortified wines are concerned, it pains me to know that there isn’t even an updated edition written by any of the national experts on Port wine, Madeira wine or Moscatel de Setúbal. But in this specific case I’ll write about the Port wine and the Douro, and once again we have to thank those who come from abroad and have many decades of accumulated experience writing about Portuguese wines. The author is Richard Mayson, well known for works such as Portugal’s Wine and Winemakers, The Wines and Vineyards of Portugal, and is now releasing a new edition of his bestselling Port and the Douro.

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Port and the Douro – Richard Mayson

In addition to being a wine producer (Sonho Lusitano) in Portalegre, Richard Mayson is a profound connoisseur of Portugal’s wines and an expert in the fortified wines area. I’ve already approached and written about his recent book dedicated to the Madeira wine in a recent piece. This time he decided to release a new edition of the Port and the Douro, a work resulting from many years of work, visiting producers and tasting with them side by side. The outcome is at plain sight, once again with a beautiful book that shows us the fantastic world of Port Wine. It’s a complete journey where nothing seems to fail or be forgotten, from the history of the region as it started, to the winemaking process and the types of Port, through the various Quintas, vineyards, or through the various native grape varieties of the region. The various illustrations and maps are a precious help that help us to locate and realize in captivating way what we are being given to know. The part dedicated to the vineyards, as the whole book, is an example of the easiness with which Richard Mayson conveys his knowledge, as well as the all notes and curiosities that he highlights along the book and the part dedicated to the Homens que Moldaram o Douro (Men who have shaped the Douro).

The book ends with a large section dedicated to the Vintage Port that is available for free, as a Vintage Port Guide, and has already been a chronic target. Although there is now an updated version, which is a great asset and helps to better understand what features each year with reminders for each vintage, since 1844, the oldest one tasted by the author, up until 2015. We can still find a few brief notes on how to save, age and serve Port wine, ending with some brief notes on the main producers. A book in the image of Port Wine, delicious.

Five O’clock Port by Real Companhia Velha

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

The Five O’clock Port is a movement created by Real Companhia Velha that intends to promote the consumption of port wine by the consumer, and this year it celebrates 260 years of its foundation. The name invokes the so famous “Five O’clock Tea” brought to England by Catarina of Bragança, daughter of Dom João IV and married to Charles II of England. The dowry of her marriage included a box of tea, the same tea that Catarina of Bragança used to drink in Vila Viçosa, her place of birth. This would become the most British habit of all, the famous 5 o’clock tea. The explanation of this will came from Pedro Silva Reis, son of the current president of Real Companhia Velha and responsible for the company’s marketing. He stated that “The Portuguese are increasingly waking up to habits already well established in other countries like gathering up after work in bars, wine bars, kiosks and esplanades, to have a glass of wine, whether it be just the glass of wine or while harmonizing it with snacks or finger foods.”

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Five O’clock Port – Photo Provided by Real Companhia Velha | All Rights Reserved

The aim of this initiative is for the Port Wine consumption to become a habit at mealtimes or even outside it. The implementation of this “movement” involves the creation of Port wine lists with their matching suggestions, which can be wine pairings of Port wine with cheeses and chocolates, and on a non-gastronomic side, with cigars, among others. The offer will be adapted to the places of where it will be available, and the range of Port wines with the Real Companhia Velha’s signature is broad. For this demonstration they were presented in a very interesting harmonization of several Port Wine styles with varied combinations and moments.

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Royal Oporto Tawny 10 Years – Photo Provided by Real Companhia Velha | All Rights Reserved

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Royal Oporto L.B.V. 2011 – Photo Provided by Real Companhia Velha | All Rights Reserved

The first two wines to be suggested show all their versatility and are an excellent door to the fantastic world of Port wine, with more affordable prices for the consumer who in this way is able to access and enjoy them at home without making big investment. In this mano a mano, the Royal Oporto Tawny 10 Years showed up fresh with a balanced and sweet profile, with no great exaltations and a strong raisins aroma, resulted fully with the proposal. The Royal Oporto L.B.V. 2011 shows the vigor and energy of the Ruby style, full and opulent, fully coats the palate with wild fruit flavors, plenty of strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, in a fresh and spicy background. A more versatile wine showing enough energy to be paired with a good cut of beef just off the grill.

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Real Companhia Velha Vintage 1970 – Photo Provided by Real Companhia Velha | All Rights Reserved

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Real Companhia Velha Vintage 1967 – Photo Provided by Real Companhia Velha | All Rights Reserved

The last wines to enter the scene were three Vintages in adulthood, breathtaking and memorable. From the proposals that were put on the table I discarded the one that referred to the cigars. All the wines that I speak of here were harmonized with cheese, either with Queijo da Serra da Estrela or with Stilton. The first one was the Real Companhia Velha Vintage 1970 with stuffed pear-rock and Queijo da Serra, a very engaging Vintage that got to me immediately with notes of caramel, fresh fruit mixed with dried fruit, flowers and a slight of balsamic. Beautiful presence in mouth, very good freshness with presence coating the palate, full of flavor and very good persistence, with enough energy for the clash with the Queijo da Serra where the acidity cuts the fattest part of the cheese while the greasiness feeling combines beautifully with the fattest tone left. For the second moment, with Stilton cheese, crackers of spices and dehydrated Granny Smith, it was served the Real Companhia Velha Vintage 1967. If the previous Vintage had already got me with its charms, what to say about this one that to me shows up even better, a treat for the senses. Huge elegance and freshness, milk caramel, unctuous, conquering immediately. Rich complexity, all very nice and neat, serious, broad and persistent on the palate, very tasty with great persistence. Even with the Stilton’s power the Vintage 1967 proved to be a true colossus, shouldering side by side in a classic combination and again showing the will that these wines have to be at consumers’ table. I end with a wine that was intended for smokers, I chose to pick up the Real Companhia Velha Vintage 1957 and try to make a harmonization with the two proposals that had already been made. It showed up incisive and razor-sharp, much more fresh and less grease than the previous, which two make it a wine suitable for cigars. However, it was with the Silton that I liked it the most, and that demonstrates the versatility of Port wine in its most distinct styles and the ability to be matched with meals as well as to more festive moments and moments of pure relaxation. Shall we meet at 5:00 for a glass of Port wine?

Contacts
Real Companhia Velha
Rua Azevedo Magalhães 314
4430-022 Vila Nova de Gaia
Tel: (+351) 223 775 100
Fax: (+351) 223 775 190
E-mail: rcvelha@realcompanhiavelha.pt
Wesbiste: www.realcompanhiavelha.pt

The Adega do Cartaxo and the Ribatejo rebirth

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Founded in 1954 by a group of 22 associates, the Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo has its roots in a region with a strong wine tradition and historical references to this activity that go back to X century. The Adega operated, until 1974, at the premises of the former Junta Nacional do Vinho (the current IVV), since then it operates in the current facilities, always investing in strengthening its human and technological resources at the service of a better wine production. Presently, the Adega do Cartaxo has 216 associated with a 616 hectares’ vineyard area, of which 244 are DOC and 370 IGP, and it is, with no doubt, another good example of an Adega Cooperativa that knew how to remodel and update itself to the needs of the market and consumer demands. The image remodeling of its main wines creating appealing and distinctive labels are part of that new image, the quality of the wines with the oenology in charge of Eng. Pedro Gil has paid numerous awards nationally and abroad.

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Adega do Cartaxo – Photo Provided by Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo | All Rights Reserved

With a portfolio filled with countless references, I decided to focus my attention on those who, for me, are the company’s stars. Bridão Private Collection 2013 is the first of a set of three wines that I selected. This wine has a blend of Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet, 50/50, and aged for 10 months in Portuguese oak barrels. A mature wine, concentrated and opulent, full of ripe fruit with a touch of spices. Good freshness surrounding it, soft and sweet tooth and, with a good complexity and the ease with which it captivates, let’s say that it is one of those wines that easily pleases without having much to think about, because those who drink wine do not have to waste time thinking. A person drinks because it tastes good and this wine tastes good, it tastes very well.

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The three wines – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

Hopping now to the Bridão Reserva white 2014, composed by the Fernão Pires and Arinto grape varieties, which fermented and aged in French oak barrels for 3 months. The result is a white that combines the weight of the fruit with a good freshness and a sensation of warmth given by the wood. The set of aromas is in a such way inviting that it literally suggests a lemon meringue pie, both in aroma and taste, where the acidity is shown strong but with the expected rounding/creaminess conferred by the passage by wood. Good to go along with fish in the oven or grilled dishes with butter and lemon sauce. To end, the Bridão Reserva red 2013, which brings together the Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet, Tinta Roriz and Syrah grape varieties, and aged for 6 months in French oak barrels. All nicely wrapped with vegetal and fresh notes, forest fruits in very ripe black tones, the wood wraps the set and a plus note for the good work with the barrels. Good complexity in a serious profile that is easy to like, it’s appealing despite the slight austerity and it seems to have some tobacco, pepper, and slight balsamic showing up in the background. These are three quite appealing wines priced below € 10 that easily win the consumer at the table, if there is good food around.

Contacts
Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo
EN 365-2 2070-220
Cartaxo, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 243 770 987
Fax: (+351) 243 770 107
E-mail: geral@adegacartaxo.pt
Website: www.adegacartaxo.pt

Adega de Vidigueira, Inspiração and Bonança

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Once upon a time, in a land far away named Alentejo wine region were conjured some “fairy godmothers” and each one of them had the power to create their own Adega Cooperativa. Thus were created the Cooperativa de Borba, Portalegre, Redondo, Reguengos de Monsaraz, Granja/Amareleja e Vidigueira. For decades these cellars were the epitome of the subregions of where they were inserted, the wines differed among themselves and showed with panache the characteristics of these regions and grape varieties which back then were almost unique to one or the other. Then came the dark times, the magic that was wrapping the Adegas Cooperativas got lost because of the stoppage in time, which literally swallowed the vast majority. Added to all this, a new wave of producers hungry for recognition has led to a wave of new labels to appearing on the shelves at breakneck speed. The consumer, the consumer got confused and not knowing where to turn. On the one hand he had at hand the wines that he always used to have at the table, on the other hand there were also many “toys” calling out for the consumer’s attention. So, the much needed investment in expansion and renewal of the Adegas Cooperativas portfolio went through, with the introduction of new products but essentially with the redesign of the entire image, which meant a breath of fresh air bringing back to life some of them.

The Adega de Vidigueira is one of this cases with happy “ending”, where the renewal was put into place and which is now showing its results. I recall you that is was recently considered the “Cooperativa of the Year 2015” by Revista de Vinhos. On a journey that tries to bring closer the cellar and its village, Vidigueira, to the achievements of other times, to the link with Vasco da Gama – the Count of Vidigueira – the intention is to fulfill the discovery promise and claim a region so deeply marked by the culture wine. The portfolio was thus divided into seven acts (O Prenúncio | A Partida | A Saudade | A Inspiração | A Decisão …) that connect themselves through a journey around the region, culture and history, always a state of discovery.

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Vidigueira Alicante Bouschet 2014 – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

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Vidigueira Reserva 2014 – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

In Act IV – Inspiration comes this Vidigueira Alicante Bouschet 2014 showing all of the grape variety’s temperament, austerity with very ripe fruit along with jam, cocoa, and needing some time in the glass because it is initially very wrapped in a very fresh mantle. A wine that is as intense as gluttonous, young and ready to last in the bottle, the palate is full of energy meaning it is a good match for good seasoning dishes. In Act VI – Bonança arises Vidigueira Reserva 2014, a 12 months aged in new French oak barrels 100% Syrah. A beautiful wine with everything to please and conquer immediately, full and fleshy, very juicy and gluttonous with fruit bursting with flavor in the mouth, warm and silky touch resulting in a wine with beautiful structure and firmness. The freshness packs it all without letting the fruit fall into ordinary temptations, juicy, complex and dangerously attractive, opulent and lustful Syrah. To be opened in a time where bonanza deserves to be celebrated.

Contacts
Bairro Indústrial
7960-305 Vidigueira
Tel: (+351) 284 437 240
Fax. (+351) 284 437 249
E-mail: geral@adegavidigueira.pt
Website: www.adegavidigueira.com.pt

Coração d’Ouro, from television to the table

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

The telenovela Coração d’Ouro, which is broadcasted in prime time on SIC, went from the screen to the table, more properly into the glass. I’m talking about two wines, a white and a red, DOC Douro, resulting from a joint commitment of SIC and Real Companhia Velha. I remind you that the scenario is Quinta das Carvalhas, which belongs to Real Companhia Velha.

Two wines where the main role is given to the fruit, in conjunction with fresh and inviting aromas, a set where everything appears very clean and delicious. The Coração d’Ouro white 2014 is a blend of Viosinho, Gouveio, Moscatel, Arinto, Fernão Pires, Rabigato and Verdelho, showing plenty of fruit with citrus and ripe pear with a slight sauce. Youthful profile controlled by the freshness with floral aroma. It’s a very attractive and easy to like white. For all that it shows becomes versatile at the table and can make company along a good conversation and an extended variety of starters, seafood or salads. If you go for fish choose one with that has a more delicate meat and not too much fat, grilled preferably, with a pinch of butter sauce/salsa/lemon.

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Coração d’Ouro white 2014 – Photo Provided by Real Companhia Velha | All Rights Reserved

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Coração d’Ouro red 2014 – Photo Provided by Real Companhia Velha | All Rights Reserved

Regarding the red wine, the typical grape varieties of the region come into play: Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca. The wine is a blend of acid wild fruits with many berries, ripe and fragrant strawberries. All good little things to smell and enjoy. In the background the ever present vegetal touch, as if it was the line stitching the whole set that smells and tastes like the Douro. Very balanced and full of energy, able to keep up with good seasoning dishes, but it will, in my view, shine brighter with the griller running. Pick a cut of beef suitable for the grid, previously marinated so that the meat gets caramelized, which matches beautifully with the wine.

Contacts
Real Companhia Velha
Rua Azevedo Magalhães 314
4430-022 Vila Nova de Gaia
Tel: (+351) 223 775 100
Fax: (+351) 223 775 190
E-mail: rcvelha@realcompanhiavelha.pt
Website: www.realcompanhiavelha.pt

Soalheiro, the excellence of 2015

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

This time I’m going to talk about the Alvarinho brand that I have most at home, and that for long years now has a reserved corner in the dark of my cellar. Many may wonder – Keep an Alvarinho in a wine cellar? Yes, it is true, I keep these and others because their conservation capacity is more than proven year after year, vintage after vintage. For those who look askance or are in doubt, I hope someday you have the good fortune of tasting one of the finest examples of the 90s or to not go back very far in time drinking a “simple” 2007 and, if it’s in a Magnum bottle even better.

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Soalheiro – Photo Provided by Quinta de Soalheiro | All Rights Reserved

The evolution or can I say perfection has been increasing visibly and the wines have known how to mirror that at every passing decade. Today more than ever the aromatic cleanness together with the characteristically energy of the local wines (Vinho Verde) makes the Soalheiro wines, among others, get another dimension when the time comes to get to the table. In this case, the genie of the lamp at the cellar is called António Luís Cerdeira and is the one who has been able to delight his legion of fans, in which I include myself, with his wines.

After the recent novelties that I already had the chance to report here, they will soon launch the Soalheiro Granit, as well as the new 2015 wines, from a vintage considered of excellence by the producer himself. In this case we’re talking about the youngest ranges, starting with the Soalheiro ALLO 2015, which results from a 50/50 blend of Alvarinho and Loureiro. From this junction is born a white wine full of flavors that invoke fruit and fresh flowers, is vibrant, very fragrant and at the same time light and fun, a wine that as soon as we realize the bottle is already over. It’s one of those whites that we like having at the table in a midsummer late afternoon to accompany some canapes or shellfishes au naturel.

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Soalheiro ALLO 2015 & Soalheiro Alvarinho 2015 – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

The second wine is the inevitable Soalheiro Alvarinho 2015 that for me is now much better in this vintage than in the previous one. In this wine I can note more freshness with the fruit less exposed, less mature and more graceful. For the rest of the wine we get the Soalheiro profile, where the grape variety descriptors appear in a set that immediately wins us with clean and well laid out aromas, good intensity and showing tense, very fresh and with mineral austerity in the background. The fruit (passion fruit, lychee, citrus) merges with the floral notes, a very light and thin spoonful of honey that connects everything and balancing itself very well with the acidity of the wine. Good to drink now with grilled tiger prawns or can be kept for two years to have a pleasant surprise.

Contacts
Quinta de Soalheiro
4960-010 Alvaredo, Melgaço
Tel: (+351) 251 416 769
Fax: (+351) 251 416 771
Email: quinta@soalheiro.com
Website: www.soalheiro.com

Alambre Moscatel Roxo 2010, I’m sexy and I know it

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

The Moscatel Roxo de Setúbal grape variety is a rare grape that was in extinction risk in the last century. The difference to its white homonymous, Moscatel de Setúbal, starts in its purple hue but also in the refined differences of the aroma and palate, which originate exclusive and fine cut wines. And when we talk about its saving from extinction comes into play the oldest producer of Moscatel de Setúbal, José Maria da Fonseca.

It was by the hands of Fernando Soares Franco (5th generation of the family) that the last hectare of Moscatel Roxo in the region was saved. Back then it was located in Quinta de Camarate. Nowadays the grape variety spreads over about 40 ha in all the region, 10 of which belong to José Maria da Fonseca. This grape variety now shows its versatility in the hands of the experienced winemaking team, and the consumer can taste fortified wines, rosé and sparkling wines.

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Alambre Moscatel Roxo 2010 in jmf.pt

Blend-All-About-Wine-Moscatel Roxo-Alambre 2010

Alambre Moscatel Roxo 2010 – Photo by João Pedro de Carvalho | All Rights Reserved

The last novelty to be launched was this Alambre Moscatel Roxo 2010, an entry range Moscatel Roxo, which is accessible to a broader audience since the fortified wines from this house are generally more expensive than the others. So they decided to present a younger and modern Moscatel Roxo, fresh, direct and without all the complexity and density that, for example, a Roxo 20 years shows us. It’s a wine with the quality that this producer has already used us to but that at the same time can be enjoyed in a relaxing way at end of the afternoon in a balcony with our friends. This more direct approach is welcomed because not everything in life has to be faced in a suit and tie, with a formal tone just because the wine they pour into our glass so demands. Here and in this case with the Alambre Roxo 2010 we experience a festive mood, because the way that the set unfolds invites to that, it’s fresh, appealing, merges sweetness/acidity/concentration in such a way that becomes an immediate success at the table.

Contacts
Quinta da Bassaqueira – Estrada Nacional 10,
2925-542 Vila Nogueira de Azeitão, Setúbal, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 212 197 500
E-mail: info@jmf.pt
Website: www.jmf.pt